How do I properly apply graphite to hornady lnl progressive powder measure

kbialick · June 10, 2017, 11:27 PM

Hello everyone
I recently got into reloading 45s and have a hornady progressive press .... I have been having trouble getting a consistent powder drop from my powder measure. I did clean grease off before using and I am using the small pistol rotor. I am using bullseye powder btw. I have read that applying powdered graphite to certain areas will help a lot but I am not sure where and how to apply it. I am curious if someone can give me a detailed description on how to do this. If my consistent drop is let's say 3.6 I'm randomly gettin anywhere from 3.4 to 3.9 occasionally. Any help would be much appreciated thank you

Snyper · June 11, 2017, 04:38 AM

You're always going to get those fluctuations and they will be worse with some types of powders than with others.

Graphite should go on any surfaces that rub together, and on the inside of the hopper and spout although typically a little normal use will leave enough powder residue to act as a lubricant there.

Try to be as consistent as possible in how you operate the handle, and if you think the loads are critical, check each one on a scale before putting it in the cases.

rebs · June 11, 2017, 06:30 AM

I put graphite in the powder reservoir and shake it up real good so it gets all over inside the hopper then snap the powder cylinder to get all excess out.
The best way I found is to just use the powder measure and it gets more precise drops. Mine drops powder very consistently now to the point of only 1/10th of a grain variation with the vast majority being right on the money.

PA-Joe · June 11, 2017, 06:37 AM

You should also note that there are two powder rotors, one for rifle and the other for pistol. You may need to buy the other rotor. You also have to double tap the handle so that you fill the measure and then double tap again to drop all of the powder. Do you have a baffle inside of the powder tube? This also helps.

T. O'Heir · June 11, 2017, 12:54 PM

Powdered graphite is really messy stuff. Get it on a rug and it stays there. Comes in a wee tube(used for smoothing locks), just like tooth paste, that you cut the end off like some tiny oil bottles. That cut off end is the applicator. I don't think it'll make any difference with inconsistent powder drops.
That's usually caused by inconsistent operation of the handle. Or static cling in the hopper. Static cling goes away by wiping the hopper out with a dryer sheet.
"...let's say 3.6..." That is just a fer instance? 4.5 of Bullseye is a great target load for cast 230's.

noylj · June 11, 2017, 02:09 PM

You run a full hopper of graphitized powder (such as Bullseye) through the measure before using it. You have Bullseye, so use it. Or, you pour the powdered graphite in the hopper and throw charges until it has worked itself through.

About measures:
1) As you cleaned it, let's just comment on that
a) you need to clean all metal parts with a degreaser--and NOT alcohol. One of the best cleaners is Hornady One-Shot Cleaner and Dry Lube (now, Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner with Dyna Glide). Let air dry and do not wipe off.
b) you need to clean all plastic parts with soapy water (and let air dry and NOT rinse). Alternatively, use Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner with Dyna Glide. The soap leaves a non-static surface.
PS: I have NEVER had a charge measuring issue due to static cling on the hopper, but some claim otherwise.
2) Assemble and fill hopper with graphitized powder (Bullseye, Unique, and many others) or powdered graphite and throw charges until measure is empty.
3) Before first use, be sure correct rotor/metering assembly is installed.
4) Install measure on stand or on press.
5) If using a case-activated powder-through die, be sure measure cycles completely up and down and press is functioning before adding powder.
5.1) Set metering assembly to near zero (unless you KNOW about where it was last set) and add powder to hopper
5.2) Shake the measure a bit to settle the powder. Normal operation on the press with shake the powder enough to keep it settled, usually...
5.3) Throw a charge, weigh, and adjust until you are somewhere near your target weight. Don't try to get the correct weight yet, just within 5-10 grains is probably near enough. The main issue is not to have the measure set for 25 grains and your case is a .380 auto--now is not the time to have to stop and clean the press due to your powder spill.
5.4) Now, throw AT LEAST 10 charges, without weighing, and pour the powder back in the measure.
5.5) Throw three charges and weigh each. If they are within 1-2%, you are ready to adjust the charge weight. If not, give the measure another shake to settle the powder and throw ANOTHER 10 charges without weighing.
If your charges are something like: 4.5, 4.6, 4.5, 4.4, 4.5, 4.5, 4.6, 4.5--this is normal
If your charges are something like: 4.5, 4.8, 4.2, 4.7, 4.3, 4.5, 4.5, 4.3, 4.8--the system isn't settled and you need to settle the powder and throw more charges or install an aquarium pump or you need to make your own "Dillon Low Powder Sensor" to put some weight on the powder column.
If your charges are something like: 4.5, 2.2, 4.8, 4.5, 2.5, 7.5--there is something WRONG. The powder is clumping/bridging, the system is dirty/oily/greasy, or a bolt/washer/lock-ring/moth fell in the hopper or your measure is assembled wrong. Take it apart and find the problem.
5.6) Adjust for the target charge weight. Any time you adjust the metering assembly (charge being thrown), throw at least another three charges "blind" to get the system settled before actually weighing any.
6) For bench-mounted, the critical thing after you've settled the powder is to operate the measure consistently and always fully cycle the handle and "Tap, Tap" the handle on up- and down-stroke.

kbialick · June 12, 2017, 04:09 PM

I do have the small pistol rotor installed I changed it first thing when I put everything together ..

Oheir I use 200 swc and will use mid 4s if I need to make major but for steel challenge I normally keep it 3.7 since there is no power factor I wasn't sure if I could use the stuff in the tube becuase I thought it has a liquid additive and isn't just powdered graphite

Noylj thank u for the detailed advice ... I never get anything more than .4 out of the ordinary but justness never seem to stay consistent I know +-1 is normal but to go from 3.5 to 3.9 shouldn't be ..... I try to throw 15-20 charges once I get my number settled in before I even start and try to check it every 20 rounds or so and still always get a slight variable .... I do double tap and keep the reservoir atleast half way at all time

June 10, 2017, 11:27 PM	#1
kbialick Member Join Date: June 10, 2017 Posts: 17	How do I properly apply graphite to hornady lnl progressive powder measure Hello everyone I recently got into reloading 45s and have a hornady progressive press .... I have been having trouble getting a consistent powder drop from my powder measure. I did clean grease off before using and I am using the small pistol rotor. I am using bullseye powder btw. I have read that applying powdered graphite to certain areas will help a lot but I am not sure where and how to apply it. I am curious if someone can give me a detailed description on how to do this. If my consistent drop is let's say 3.6 I'm randomly gettin anywhere from 3.4 to 3.9 occasionally. Any help would be much appreciated thank you

June 11, 2017, 04:38 AM	#2
Snyper Senior Member Join Date: December 16, 2013 Location: Eastern NC Posts: 3,047	You're always going to get those fluctuations and they will be worse with some types of powders than with others. Graphite should go on any surfaces that rub together, and on the inside of the hopper and spout although typically a little normal use will leave enough powder residue to act as a lubricant there. Try to be as consistent as possible in how you operate the handle, and if you think the loads are critical, check each one on a scale before putting it in the cases. __________________ One shot, one kill

June 11, 2017, 12:54 PM	#5
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	Powdered graphite is really messy stuff. Get it on a rug and it stays there. Comes in a wee tube(used for smoothing locks), just like tooth paste, that you cut the end off like some tiny oil bottles. That cut off end is the applicator. I don't think it'll make any difference with inconsistent powder drops. That's usually caused by inconsistent operation of the handle. Or static cling in the hopper. Static cling goes away by wiping the hopper out with a dryer sheet. "...let's say 3.6..." That is just a fer instance? 4.5 of Bullseye is a great target load for cast 230's. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

June 11, 2017, 02:09 PM	#6
noylj Senior Member Join Date: October 21, 2007 Location: Between CA and NM Posts: 858	You run a full hopper of graphitized powder (such as Bullseye) through the measure before using it. You have Bullseye, so use it. Or, you pour the powdered graphite in the hopper and throw charges until it has worked itself through. About measures: 1) As you cleaned it, let's just comment on that a) you need to clean all metal parts with a degreaser--and NOT alcohol. One of the best cleaners is Hornady One-Shot Cleaner and Dry Lube (now, Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner with Dyna Glide). Let air dry and do not wipe off. b) you need to clean all plastic parts with soapy water (and let air dry and NOT rinse). Alternatively, use Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner with Dyna Glide. The soap leaves a non-static surface. PS: I have NEVER had a charge measuring issue due to static cling on the hopper, but some claim otherwise. 2) Assemble and fill hopper with graphitized powder (Bullseye, Unique, and many others) or powdered graphite and throw charges until measure is empty. 3) Before first use, be sure correct rotor/metering assembly is installed. 4) Install measure on stand or on press. 5) If using a case-activated powder-through die, be sure measure cycles completely up and down and press is functioning before adding powder. 5.1) Set metering assembly to near zero (unless you KNOW about where it was last set) and add powder to hopper 5.2) Shake the measure a bit to settle the powder. Normal operation on the press with shake the powder enough to keep it settled, usually... 5.3) Throw a charge, weigh, and adjust until you are somewhere near your target weight. Don't try to get the correct weight yet, just within 5-10 grains is probably near enough. The main issue is not to have the measure set for 25 grains and your case is a .380 auto--now is not the time to have to stop and clean the press due to your powder spill. 5.4) Now, throw AT LEAST 10 charges, without weighing, and pour the powder back in the measure. 5.5) Throw three charges and weigh each. If they are within 1-2%, you are ready to adjust the charge weight. If not, give the measure another shake to settle the powder and throw ANOTHER 10 charges without weighing. If your charges are something like: 4.5, 4.6, 4.5, 4.4, 4.5, 4.5, 4.6, 4.5--this is normal If your charges are something like: 4.5, 4.8, 4.2, 4.7, 4.3, 4.5, 4.5, 4.3, 4.8--the system isn't settled and you need to settle the powder and throw more charges or install an aquarium pump or you need to make your own "Dillon Low Powder Sensor" to put some weight on the powder column. If your charges are something like: 4.5, 2.2, 4.8, 4.5, 2.5, 7.5--there is something WRONG. The powder is clumping/bridging, the system is dirty/oily/greasy, or a bolt/washer/lock-ring/moth fell in the hopper or your measure is assembled wrong. Take it apart and find the problem. 5.6) Adjust for the target charge weight. Any time you adjust the metering assembly (charge being thrown), throw at least another three charges "blind" to get the system settled before actually weighing any. 6) For bench-mounted, the critical thing after you've settled the powder is to operate the measure consistently and always fully cycle the handle and "Tap, Tap" the handle on up- and down-stroke. Last edited by noylj; June 11, 2017 at 02:23 PM.

June 11, 2017, 06:30 AM	#3
rebs Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2012 Posts: 3,881	I put graphite in the powder reservoir and shake it up real good so it gets all over inside the hopper then snap the powder cylinder to get all excess out. The best way I found is to just use the powder measure and it gets more precise drops. Mine drops powder very consistently now to the point of only 1/10th of a grain variation with the vast majority being right on the money.

June 11, 2017, 06:37 AM	#4
PA-Joe Senior Member Join Date: June 9, 2010 Location: NEPA Posts: 909	You should also note that there are two powder rotors, one for rifle and the other for pistol. You may need to buy the other rotor. You also have to double tap the handle so that you fill the measure and then double tap again to drop all of the powder. Do you have a baffle inside of the powder tube? This also helps.

June 12, 2017, 04:09 PM	#7
kbialick Member Join Date: June 10, 2017 Posts: 17	I do have the small pistol rotor installed I changed it first thing when I put everything together .. Oheir I use 200 swc and will use mid 4s if I need to make major but for steel challenge I normally keep it 3.7 since there is no power factor I wasn't sure if I could use the stuff in the tube becuase I thought it has a liquid additive and isn't just powdered graphite Noylj thank u for the detailed advice ... I never get anything more than .4 out of the ordinary but justness never seem to stay consistent I know +-1 is normal but to go from 3.5 to 3.9 shouldn't be ..... I try to throw 15-20 charges once I get my number settled in before I even start and try to check it every 20 rounds or so and still always get a slight variable .... I do double tap and keep the reservoir atleast half way at all time