Needing a Smith to send My ASM to.

deerslayer303 · November 19, 2024, 07:15 PM

Hey Guys,
I am at my limit with my 7.5" ASM (EMF) Hartford Model. Its like the head space is all wrong. Or maybe the cylinder face is too long. The Rounds, no matter the brand or brand of brass used hangs up on the face of the rim. There will be drag marks across the bottom of the brass right across the primer. When I got it I stoned down a few burrs on the recoil shield but that didn't help much at all. Do any of you know a good Single Action Smith that I could send this thing to legally? I had a fellas number I called a good while ago but I can't find the info on him. I think he was in Arizona or Texas maybe. I don't want to give up on the thing yet. I like the size of it and it's drop dead gorgeous to boot.

**4V50 Gary** · November 19, 2024, 07:44 PM

I wonder if the cylinder is too long and needs to be shaved slightly on a lathe? Got feeler gauges? You need to check the gap between the cylinder & barrel and then from the back of the cylinder to the recoil shield.

deerslayer303 · November 19, 2024, 08:42 PM

Thanks for the reply Gary, and sorry for posting in the wrong section. I'll measure them tomorrow and report back.

**4V50 Gary** · November 19, 2024, 10:34 PM

Not really the wrong place as the BP forum has some knowledgeable and skilled people there too, but this is where the other cool kids are.

Hellgate · November 20, 2024, 08:46 PM

If needed, wouldn't it be easier to shave the breech of the barrel than the cylinder (assuming the cylinder face is machined evenly).

jcj54 · November 20, 2024, 09:05 PM

This guy does quality work.

https://springcreekarmory.com/

**4V50 Gary** · November 21, 2024, 11:28 AM

Alternatively it could be the barrel needs shortening. But one has to examine the piece to make sure. The adage do no harm and so the general rule is to work on the part that is easiest to replace (if the smith messes up).

No feeler gauges?

10-96 · November 22, 2024, 10:19 AM

Deerslayer- Do you know if that has a 2-piece cylinder with the long collared tube that the base pin goes through? Whether you do or not, that collar (whether it is machined into the cylinder or a separate piece) is your bearing surface that dictates how far forward or backwards the cylinder rides in the frame. Now IF you have a 2-piece, you might save a few bucks and obtain another collar and slowly stone it to length. Always work on the cheapest part first.
... Or am I looking at this all wrong?

10-96 · November 22, 2024, 10:41 AM

If it is a 1873 clone, the Pietta Base Pin Bushing should work according to VTI Gunparts and set you back a whopping $23 bucks if they have one in stock.

Item
187Code
SAA5207
Description
Pietta Base Pin Bushing (1873 SA, AWA, ASM, Colt 1st & 2nd)
Check StockPrice
US$23.10Quantity
1

deerslayer303 · November 23, 2024, 08:40 PM

I'm sorry for my lack of engagement in this thread. I came down with something. But hopefully I can get to the revolver tomorrow and get some more info and measurements.I do have various sets of feeler gauges to work with. Thanks a ton for all your replies so far. I do believe this Revolver has the one piece cylinder, no removable bushing.

deerslayer303 · November 27, 2024, 01:47 PM

Again sorry for the delay. I was able to get out there and play with the Hartford today. Here are the measurements I came up with.

Cylinder to barrel gap - .003"

Cylinder to recoil Shield - .0565" , I measured at various places around the recoil shield starting with the top where the firing pin hole is (hammer at half cock of course). I got the same measurements in all the spots I tried. Being as a .45 Colt Rim is .060" this may be the problem??

deerslayer303 · January 10, 2025, 12:52 PM

UPDATE: I got the Hartford back from the local Gunsmith I found. He said the headspace, etc all checked out. But what he did find when test firing was that there was some steel pushed out at the bottom of the firing pin channel. He said most likely someone has dry fired this revolver ALOT in the past. You can see it in the photo I posted above. The gun runs like its supposed to now. Now if I can get that 10lb trigger lightened up I'll be all set.

November 19, 2024, 07:15 PM	#1
deerslayer303 Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2011 Location: Leesville SC Posts: 2,705	Needing a Smith to send My ASM to. Hey Guys, I am at my limit with my 7.5" ASM (EMF) Hartford Model. Its like the head space is all wrong. Or maybe the cylinder face is too long. The Rounds, no matter the brand or brand of brass used hangs up on the face of the rim. There will be drag marks across the bottom of the brass right across the primer. When I got it I stoned down a few burrs on the recoil shield but that didn't help much at all. Do any of you know a good Single Action Smith that I could send this thing to legally? I had a fellas number I called a good while ago but I can't find the info on him. I think he was in Arizona or Texas maybe. I don't want to give up on the thing yet. I like the size of it and it's drop dead gorgeous to boot. __________________ "I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." - Thomas Jefferson

November 19, 2024, 07:44 PM	#2
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 22,133	I wonder if the cylinder is too long and needs to be shaved slightly on a lathe? Got feeler gauges? You need to check the gap between the cylinder & barrel and then from the back of the cylinder to the recoil shield. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!* Last edited by 4V50 Gary; November 19, 2024 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Moving to another forum

November 19, 2024, 08:42 PM	#3
deerslayer303 Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2011 Location: Leesville SC Posts: 2,705	Thanks for the reply Gary, and sorry for posting in the wrong section. I'll measure them tomorrow and report back. __________________ "I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." - Thomas Jefferson

November 19, 2024, 10:34 PM	#4
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 22,133	Not really the wrong place as the BP forum has some knowledgeable and skilled people there too, but this is where the other cool kids are. __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

November 20, 2024, 08:46 PM	#5
Hellgate Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2010 Location: Orygun Posts: 877	If needed, wouldn't it be easier to shave the breech of the barrel than the cylinder (assuming the cylinder face is machined evenly). __________________ With over 15 perCUSSIN' revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap & ball. SASS#3302 (Life), SASS Regulator, NRA (Life), Dirty Gamey Bastards #129 Wolverton Mtn. Peacekeepers (WA), former Orygun Cowboy (Ranger, Posse from Hell) Last edited by Hellgate; November 21, 2024 at 03:38 PM.

November 20, 2024, 09:05 PM	#6
jcj54 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2011 Posts: 271	This guy does quality work. https://springcreekarmory.com/

November 21, 2024, 11:28 AM	#7
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 22,133	Alternatively it could be the barrel needs shortening. But one has to examine the piece to make sure. The adage do no harm and so the general rule is to work on the part that is easiest to replace (if the smith messes up). No feeler gauges? __________________ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. *Molon Labe!*

November 22, 2024, 10:19 AM	#8
10-96 Senior Member Join Date: October 19, 2005 Location: Tx Panhandle Territory Posts: 4,182	Deerslayer- Do you know if that has a 2-piece cylinder with the long collared tube that the base pin goes through? Whether you do or not, that collar (whether it is machined into the cylinder or a separate piece) is your bearing surface that dictates how far forward or backwards the cylinder rides in the frame. Now IF you have a 2-piece, you might save a few bucks and obtain another collar and slowly stone it to length. Always work on the cheapest part first. ... Or am I looking at this all wrong? __________________ Rednecks... Keeping the woods critter-free since March 2, 1836. (TX Independence Day) I suspect a thing or two... because I've seen a thing or two.

November 22, 2024, 10:41 AM	#9
10-96 Senior Member Join Date: October 19, 2005 Location: Tx Panhandle Territory Posts: 4,182	If it is a 1873 clone, the Pietta Base Pin Bushing should work according to VTI Gunparts and set you back a whopping $23 bucks if they have one in stock. Item 187Code SAA5207 Description Pietta Base Pin Bushing (1873 SA, AWA, ASM, Colt 1st & 2nd) Check StockPrice US$23.10Quantity 1 __________________ Rednecks... Keeping the woods critter-free since March 2, 1836. (TX Independence Day) I suspect a thing or two... because I've seen a thing or two.

November 23, 2024, 08:40 PM	#10
deerslayer303 Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2011 Location: Leesville SC Posts: 2,705	I'm sorry for my lack of engagement in this thread. I came down with something. But hopefully I can get to the revolver tomorrow and get some more info and measurements.I do have various sets of feeler gauges to work with. Thanks a ton for all your replies so far. I do believe this Revolver has the one piece cylinder, no removable bushing. __________________ "I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." - Thomas Jefferson

November 27, 2024, 01:47 PM	#11
deerslayer303 Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2011 Location: Leesville SC Posts: 2,705	Again sorry for the delay. I was able to get out there and play with the Hartford today. Here are the measurements I came up with. Cylinder to barrel gap - .003" Cylinder to recoil Shield - .0565" , I measured at various places around the recoil shield starting with the top where the firing pin hole is (hammer at half cock of course). I got the same measurements in all the spots I tried. Being as a .45 Colt Rim is .060" this may be the problem?? __________________ "I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." - Thomas Jefferson

January 10, 2025, 12:52 PM	#12
deerslayer303 Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2011 Location: Leesville SC Posts: 2,705	UPDATE: I got the Hartford back from the local Gunsmith I found. He said the headspace, etc all checked out. But what he did find when test firing was that there was some steel pushed out at the bottom of the firing pin channel. He said most likely someone has dry fired this revolver ALOT in the past. You can see it in the photo I posted above. The gun runs like its supposed to now. Now if I can get that 10lb trigger lightened up I'll be all set. __________________ "I prefer dangerous freedom over peaceful slavery." - Thomas Jefferson

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