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January 9, 2013, 01:39 AM | #1 |
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This happen to anyone else?
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Ohioans for conceal carry A Glock that is not maintained will last, a Glock that is maintained will last a long time, and a Glock that is well maintained will last longer than you will. |
January 9, 2013, 02:51 AM | #2 |
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Did you hit it on cement? Tell the truth now, (Jeopardy music playing...) They break if you hit them on cement. I know from experience. Have fun.
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January 9, 2013, 02:54 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 25, 1999
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You're supposed to beat it on the other end...
They'll replace it. The cap nut on mine broke after about 10 years of occasional use. They sent the replacement part without problem.
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January 9, 2013, 04:24 AM | #4 |
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It happens.
You'll get a new one in the mail, about 4-7 days after calling about it.
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January 9, 2013, 07:17 AM | #5 |
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Like George Washington, I cannot tell a lie (my wife is watching) I almost always hit it on cement.
Thanks Guys!!
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Ohioans for conceal carry A Glock that is not maintained will last, a Glock that is maintained will last a long time, and a Glock that is well maintained will last longer than you will. |
January 9, 2013, 07:42 AM | #6 |
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Use an old computer mouse pad to smack inertia bullet pullers on; the thinner, harder ones are best. Much quieter and easier on the plastic of that one you have.
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January 9, 2013, 07:48 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: April 29, 2009
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RCBS customer service is great. They will have you send in the broken one and they will send you a new one. No charge.
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January 9, 2013, 08:51 AM | #8 |
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Sounds good thanks!
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Ohioans for conceal carry A Glock that is not maintained will last, a Glock that is maintained will last a long time, and a Glock that is well maintained will last longer than you will. |
January 9, 2013, 09:11 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: July 8, 2009
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They break on a bench vise too!
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January 9, 2013, 09:27 AM | #10 |
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I'll post an update when I hear from RCBS.
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Ohioans for conceal carry A Glock that is not maintained will last, a Glock that is maintained will last a long time, and a Glock that is well maintained will last longer than you will. |
January 9, 2013, 02:28 PM | #11 |
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I keep a 3' piece of 4x4 lumber next to my loading bench and whack the hammer on the end grain. It works quickly and is easy on the puller.
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January 9, 2013, 02:35 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: January 8, 2013
Location: Las Vegas
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always smacked mine on a wood plank.. (construction in the neighborhood has given me new goodies) haven't had a problem yet.
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January 9, 2013, 04:37 PM | #13 |
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Location: SW Florida
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I just learned something from this thread ...
I had no idea you weren't supposed to whack the hammer on cement. I have been whacking mine on porcelain tile (just as hard as cement). I guess from now on I will whack it on a piece of wood instead. Glad mine hasn't broke yet. |
January 9, 2013, 04:50 PM | #14 |
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I always used a chunk of oak and have broke two in twenty years. One was from RCBS the other was from Frankfort and both were replaced free.
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January 9, 2013, 04:58 PM | #15 |
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That's what my shop floor is for,,,, but I haven't busted mine,, and I use it almost weekly sometimes.
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January 9, 2013, 04:58 PM | #16 |
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I hide mine from my wife. She would likely break it on my thick skull.
I have one that I have used a couple of times. I stapled an old mouse pad on a 2x4. It cuts the noise down by a whole lot.
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January 9, 2013, 07:01 PM | #17 |
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Wood block for whacking...
...may try that mouse pad idea by gluing the pad to a block.
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January 9, 2013, 07:14 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
But, I now keep a section of a laminated wooden beam (~4"x9"x14") in my reloading room. It serves two purposes for 'kinetic' bullet pulling: 1. Saves the puller. 2. Lets me drive the puller "through" the beam, without smashing my knuckles on the floor. (A technique that is far superior to the standard 'hesitate and flick' method most people use. - I used to do it, too.)
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January 9, 2013, 07:15 PM | #19 |
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ALWAYS whack it on wood , preferably on the end of a 4X4 hardwood
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January 9, 2013, 07:17 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
Normally I use the 2x4 brace on the reloading bench.
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January 9, 2013, 07:54 PM | #21 |
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I've gone through two and three or four aluminum collets (three part do-hickey that hold the brass) . They warp or implode. Get you an RCBS collet puller. Just be sure to get collet for calibers you want to pull. The collets may take a little spreading so that bullets don't stick, but you'd be surprised how much faster and cleaner it is vs the kinetic stuff, and yes I have beat the hell out of mine too and on concrete.
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January 9, 2013, 08:53 PM | #22 |
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Hammer must of been flawed or defective from the factory. I've been beating mine on a hard rubber hammer for years. Has had a couple changes of its worn out collet's. But that's all.
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January 9, 2013, 11:01 PM | #23 |
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When I use mine I throw down a piece of hard rubber mat, actually its a piece of old hay baler belt, sort of like a narrow conveyor belt about 1/4" thick. Anymore I use my Rockchuker press to pull bullets. only the shell holder no dies, run the case up and grab it with a pair of archery nock pliers, bullet pulls easily and no powder mess. Not the choice if you are trying to save the bullets maybe as it does occasionally damage one but works like a charm. Started pulling bullets like that when my first child was born, loading room was in house about 30' from babies room, apparently she didn't like me whacking the inertia puller while she was sleeping.
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January 10, 2013, 12:01 AM | #24 |
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Like other have mentioned, you should hit against a thick piece of wood and against the grain (not with the grain). I keep a thick stud in a large vice on my reloading bench.
It does look as if it was hit with the wrong end of the tool. I can believe one will break, otherwise not the way the one in the picture broke. Heck, that one looks coceivable like the round could of almost gone off. |
January 10, 2013, 01:39 AM | #25 |
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Two Words!
Hockey Puck |
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