Is this a bad idea?

[JSG81]

I have a 442 j frame that I am thinking about installing a .357 cylinder for.

A little back story/ reasoning:

I’m about to get into reloading so I can have Ammo to shoot more often. Relying on finding local is a lost cause at this point.

This would allow me to only reload in .357 brass. I am not planning on using this for hot .357 loads. Just 38+p loads using the longer brass that will then fit in all my revolvers.

Is this a bad idea? It doesn’t seem like it right now but if it is I’m hoping the nice people here will politely let me know.


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[Wishoot]

If you can reload .357 you can reload 38 special. Same die sets.

Your 442 was designed for 38 special and 38 special +P. NOT .357.

[Mike38]

You can't find .38 Spcl brass so you want to load .357 brass to .38 Spcl specs? Or am I wrong?

I reload .38 Spcl, lots of it, and have never bought a single piece of brass for it. Hang out at the range. Note the people shooting new .38 Spcl and throwing it in the brass bucket. Ask them if you can have their brass. They will say sure. That's what I do.

[Aguila Blanca]

How are you going to install a .357 Magnum cylinder in a frame made for a .38 Special cylinder?

[FrankenMauser]

S&W claims the .38 and .357 frames are different.
I wouldn't do it, simply based on first hand experience with a 642 beating itself to death with "approved and appropriate" factory .38 Special.

But, your gun, your hands, your face, your choice.

[HighValleyRanch]

You need to read my thread:
https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=607941
You are a perfect example of the person I meant who thinks that he needs to ramp up to .357 when all he needs is 38/44 range .38 special +P!
If all you are going to do is shoot low end .357, you can do exactly the same with high end .38 special +P wthout any changes to your 442 (if it IS rated for +P, that is).

.38 special brass is also going to easier to find at the range than .357 magnum, and it is going to even be cheaper to purchase new .38 starline brass than to have a gunsmith put in a .357 cylinder, if they even could. Heck I've been using the same .38 special brass I've collected over many many years.

[5whiskey]

On top of what has already been said... you can load .357 brass with .38/.357 dies (basically the same thing) and still shoot .38+p. It will even chamber/load in *MOST .38 cylinders. If your .357 brass does not chamber in the .38 cylinder (10:1 says it will), get a $15 lee trimmer and go to town on the brass trimming to length. Much cheaper than a .357 cylinder.

If you need .38 brass pm me I have a butt load of it. I’ll even pay shipping I don’t care. I figure enough people have been good enough to me I can pay it forward.

[JSG81]

I hadn’t thought of 38 brass being easier/cheaper to find. Like I said I’m just getting into it. Great idea.

My understanding (and I quite possibly be wrong) is that the frames are the same size and have been for a year or two for the .357 and 38 special cylinders.

Basically yes loading .357 brass to 38+p power ranges is the idea. My main reason for wanting to do this is to not have the sticky rings in my other .357s.

It most likely this is not a great idea as I feared might be the case. Thank you all for your time and information.

Scott


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[Hal]

Midway sells .357 magnum cylinders that fit you J frame:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1004471937

This guy made a DIY video on how to change it out:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfQH6KPa1YQ

As already mentioned though - .357 magnum & .38 special use the sam loading dies - so - there's no real need to bother swapping it out - unless you want or feel the need for the extra - oomph of a .357 magnum.

Re: "stickey rings" - that's carbon that builds up from pretty much using cheaply made cast lead or swaged bullets in .38 specil being shot in a .357 magnum.
Using better mad cast lead - that uses a better grad of bullet lube & careful selection of the powder you use - will cut way down on that.

You can also bell the mouth slightly on an empty .357 magum case & shove that into each charge hole & scrape most of that ring out - before you start scrubbing it with a brush.

[jetinteriorguy]

As has been iterated, just load and shoot .38sp. The thing is, with the short ejector rod it’s much easier to eject the .38sp brass being shorter. If you plan on carrying with a reload it makes a big difference. And as a bonus the brass almost lasts forever. This is the nice thing about loading straight wall ammo, I have some brass that’s so old and been shot so many times it’s just hard to believe.

[JSG81]

You all convinced me it was a poor idea. I was either looking for confirmation of it being a good idea or not and I think that question was answered for me.

Thank you

As noted above does anyone have information on what components will make for cleaner reloads so I can help avoid some of the carbon ring issue that started me down this rabbit hole in the first place?


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[FITASC]

There is a substantial pressure difference between 38 and 357. If your gun isn't rated for 357 (and it isn't) you're playing with a hand grenade by using 357 in it.

[74A95]

Originally Posted by JSG81

As noted above does anyone have information on what components will make for cleaner reloads so I can help avoid some of the carbon ring issue that started me down this rabbit hole in the first place?

Lead-free primers will leave the gun MUCH cleaner.

[JSG81]

Originally Posted by 74A95

Lead-free primers will leave the gun MUCH cleaner.

Good to know.


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[ghbucky]

Your biggest challenge right now is getting small pistol primers.

[5whiskey]

FWIW I’ve shot tons of .38spc reloads out of .357 cylinders and I’ve never had a huge issue with it. Using traditional Keith style 158gn SWC, blue lube, and 700x... a powder that I wouldn’t call “clean” but isn’t horrible either. I did brush cylinders out after every session with .38 just to keep it from building up. It was never a problem though.

[JSG81]

I’m still learning about different powders and which is “best”. It might come down just like with primers that I will have to use what on can get my hands on for the first batch or so.


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[44 AMP]

Is this a bad idea?

Yes, it is a bad idea.

I think you'd be further ahead cost wise, and absolutely further ahead safety wise to just trade or sell the .38 and replace it with a .357 of the same size.

That solves your ammo commonality issue, and doesn't risk the gun involved.

S&W .38s and .357s get different heat treating, and, of course installing a .357 cylinder will void any warranty the gun has. Plus the cost, of both the cylinder and someone qualified to fit it, they don't come cheap.

Simply put, bastardizing a .38 into a .357 so you can run .357 brass, but NOT .357 loads is a bad idea and potentially an accident waiting to happen, not to mention the fact it is nowhere near cost effective.

If you want to keep the .38, just get some ammo (or brass) for it, its not like the stuff doesn't exist anymore. SO what if its not on the shelf the day you go shopping? Any shop will order it for you, and a good one will hold it for you under your name. Also, a lot of people order ammo online these days, and you can still legally have it delivered to your door, most places...

[JSG81]

Originally Posted by 44 AMP

Yes, it is a bad idea.

I think you'd be further ahead cost wise, and absolutely further ahead safety wise to just trade or sell the .38 and replace it with a .357 of the same size.

That solves your ammo commonality issue, and doesn't risk the gun involved.

S&W .38s and .357s get different heat treating, and, of course installing a .357 cylinder will void any warranty the gun has. Plus the cost, of both the cylinder and someone qualified to fit it, they don't come cheap.

Simply put, bastardizing a .38 into a .357 so you can run .357 brass, but NOT .357 loads is a bad idea and potentially an accident waiting to happen, not to mention the fact it is nowhere near cost effective.

If you want to keep the .38, just get some ammo (or brass) for it, its not like the stuff doesn't exist anymore. SO what if its not on the shelf the day you go shopping? Any shop will order it for you, and a good one will hold it for you under your name. Also, a lot of people order ammo online these days, and you can still legally have it delivered to your door, most places...

Understood loud and clear. Another forum member has been gracious enough to send me some .38 brass as a starting point for my reloading.

My focus has shifted to making 38 special that will reduce the carbon ring.

Honestly the accidents waiting to happen are what gave me pause and made me start this post.

Thank you all for your thoughts so far.


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[HighValleyRanch]

using the longer brass that will then fit in all my revolvers.

How many other .357 revolvers do you have, may I ask. Because I doubt that you should be concerned about shooting so much .38 special that they all would get carbon rings. If you clean after shooting, it should not any problems at all, unless you are shooting thousands of rounds per month.

[Grizzly2]

Don't feel bad. With all the crazy info on the internet and in print these days it's easy to be led down the wrong road. Luckily you can ask and have more sober minds help to get you on a safe and still enjoyable plan.

[Don P]

How are you going to install a .357 Magnum cylinder in a frame made for a .38 Special cylinder?

I was thinking the same thing.

When inserting 357 in my model 10 they stick out the front of the cylinder so I don't see how a cylinder swap would work

[JSG81]

Originally Posted by Grizzly2

Don't feel bad. With all the crazy info on the internet and in print these days it's easy to be led down the wrong road. Luckily you can ask and have more sober minds help to get you on a safe and still enjoyable plan.

That is exactly why I asked here.

I said earlier that my understanding is that now the j frames have the same length cylinder for both 38 special and .357. I cannot stress enough how easily I could be wrong.


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[silvermane_1]

Don't ever put a 357 mag cylinder in a 38, even if it will fit!, there JSG81.

[Hal]

When inserting 357 in my model 10 they stick out the front of the cylinder so I don't see how a cylinder swap would work

From everything I've been able to find - all J frame .38 and/or .357 mag revolvers use the same dimension cylinders - making it a "drop in fit".