Light Primer Strikes in 2016 S&W 586

[jwise]

I have a 2016 model S&W 586. It is a dream to shoot. I haven't done anything to it other than feed it lots and lots of .38spl and some .357mag.

The last two times I took it out to the range I have experienced light primer strikes that fail to ignite the primers of the factory new ammo (GECCO). I have fed plenty of this ammo through my 586, because it is some of the only fmj .38spl I have found and my indoor ranges require fmj.

The internet says I should tighten the hammer spring screw on the front of the grip, but that screw is TIGHT! I actually tried to snug it up and ended up breaking the bit! (cheap bit)

So, if that screw is tight and hasn't come loose, what else could be causing this?

[NoSecondBest]

Try them in another gun. It could be related to the primers and not your gun.

[Carmady]

Were the light strikes happening only when firing double action, or both DA and SA?

[jwise]

I shoot pretty much exclusively in double-action. Even if it’s the ammo, I need this revolver to ignite these primers.

[Carmady]

SA will give a harder strike than DA, and it might be enough reduce or eliminate the light strikes.

[JKP]

Take the grips off and make sure the strain screw hasn't loosened up. That can cause light strikes.

[jwise]

It’s tight. I tried to tighten it and broke my driver bit! It hasn’t loosened.

[Nick_C_S]

A range friend of mine gave me thousands - many thousands - of GECO 38 Special brass (he's wealthy and has no inclination to load his own). I can tell you from my experience reloading them that the primer pockets are deeper than other brands. When I insert the primer, they sit so deep, I'm surprised the firing pin can strike them hard enough to ignite. But they do. Usually.

The ammo I load with GECO brass does indeed have a slightly increased incidence of light primer strikes. But even then, the difference is minimal. I get light primer strikes in about one in 200 with my Smith Model 67 that has had trigger work. No problem with any other of my revolvers (all Smiths, save one Colt), or any other brass.

So I believe the ammo could be a contributing factor. But not likely enough to explain all of your issue.

Try them in another gun. It could be related to the primers and not your gun.

I agree.

[VictorLouis]

Also, the strain screw itself could have been shortened in its past-life. Tighten all you want, and it's still not putting the amount of bow into the mainspring.

[jwise]

Well, I took it to my smith to have him look it over.

[1911_Hardball]

Is this a frame mounted firing pin or hammer mounted?
If it's frame mounted this is a known issue and there are longer firing pins available that resolve the problem.

[jwise]

This is the latest model made in 2016, so it’s frame-mounted.

[ShootMeStraight]

This happens to me with 2 or 3 rounds out of 100 when firing DA in my 686 with CCI primers. I switched to Federal, problem solved.

[pete2]

A new mainspring, replace the strain screw if it's been monkeyed with, longer firing pins are available. I'm not familiar with Gecco ammo, don't shoot factory in the .38, it may use hard primers. I have 5 newer S&W revolvers with the frame mounted pins, Zero misfires with the factory mainsprings, most loaded with Fed primers but some CCI and some Win Factory loads and primers.
It might be worth a phone call to S&W.

[k in AR]

JM2cents but it can also be a problem with built up lub or too much lub. Lubrications can really slow down harmer strikes, firing pins, etc. in any style firearm. Sometimes more is not better.

[10-96]

I've noticed deep primers on GECCO .38 ammo as well. I have a Model 13 and a Model 15 that have had the same problem as the OP.

Do the rounds go off with a second strike (another trip around in the cylinder)? Mine always did. A change of ammunition brand cleared it up, so for me, it was the ammo. Right now, recommending to change ammo brands is easier said than done. Our choices are ruther limited at the moment.

[brit3]

I'm pretty sure it's the lock that caused the problem.