Ruger 10/22

[AgentPickle]

Aside from some of the more well known mods. Anyone have any advice on the 10/22? https://youtu.be/naE2pudsMMc?si=6z2bJeMscoBY0fub

[Spats McGee]

I haven't watched the video, but I'll ask: Advice for what? Making one more accurate? More reliable?

[rc]

Advice: Buy an older walnut stock gun with aluminum trigger group. A Power custom hammer and sear and trigger with adjustable over travel will take care of heavy trigger pull. No need for a BX or Kidd or Volquardsen unit. Shoot the heck out of it. Target barrels can be very temperamental with ammo. Failures to feed, slam fire out of battery discharge, failures to extract. The factory barrel may not be as accurate with all ammo, but can still shoot 1 inch groups at 50 with good ammo. A target barrel will cut groups in half but with a drop in reliability with all ammo. If you want a reliable semi auto 10/22, follow my advice. If you want to shoot tiny groups and only want one 22, get a bolt gun like a CZ 457 pro varmint. If you want to tinker and work through teething issues to make a 10/22 shoot like the CZ, go ahead and build up a 10/22 to a tack driver but expect to spend a lot of money.

[Pahoo]

Pickle
I think you are looking for input on upgrades, to improve most features of an OEM 10/22. IMHO, the video lists some options but no priority. I do upgrades and my priority is based on the biggest bang for your buck.

go ahead and build up a 10/22 to a tack driver but expect to spend a lot of money. No need for a BX or Kidd or Volquardsen unit.

I agree and have taken most of these apart and there isn't much there. When I need "some" parts, I stick with Volquardsen. You don't have to spend a lot of money but you certainly can and whatever upgrades you do can always can be undone when and if you sell it. If you are handy, you can even do some, yourself. .......

Be Safe !!!

[Bob Willman]

Many years ago at a local gun show there were 2 10/22s mounted side by side on a platform with a rod pivoted in the middle through both trigger guards. This rod was driven back and forth by a mechanism using a crank to fire each rifle alternately. A group of gents around the table discussing the mechanism, when one asked what was it good for? The builder's reply was, "It's hell on cats."

[DaleA]

If accuracy is your goal, you might want to check out a Bergara BXR. I've got a friend with both the Bergara and an older Ruger Target and he likes the Bergara better...says it is more accurate. The Bergara, he says, takes the Ruger 10/22 magazines.

That said, Ruger has a 10/22 Competition which is a level above the Target and it might be worth looking at too.

Ruger Competition-$950.
https://ruger.com/products/1022Competition/models.html

Ruger Target-$800.
https://ruger.com/products/1022Target/models.html

Bergara BXR steel barrel (that's what my friend has)-$620.
https://www.bergara.online/us/rifles/rimfire/bxrsteel/

Bergara BXR carbon barrel-$720.
https://www.bergara.online/us/rifles/rimfire/bxrcarbon/

[jpx2rk]

State what you what to do with the 10/22 and it will help provide more targeted suggestions.

[FITASC]

Why not just shoot it as is first and then see how it performs and go from there?

[Pahoo]

Anyone have any advice on the 10/22?

Okay,
Try to find an older model. If you find one, it's really not worth more than $150.00. Spend some Range-time with it and then sit back and figure out how you want to make it better. Even with all the latest OEM mods, they are still; that good but the older ones are better. ....

Once the patent rights ran out, many manufaturers hit the market and that is a testiment to how good they are. It's not my number target rifle but it has taken more squirrels and provided more enjoyment than any other .22LR .....

Be Safe !!!

[jmr40]

Don't buy the basic carbine.

If you can find one of these you'll have a much better rifle.

https://ruger.com/products/1022Carbi...ets/31173.html

These are almost as good, easier to find and a little cheaper. The 1st version comes with a web sling and already has the BX trigger in it. These have the standard trigger. But it can easily be replaced with the BX trigger which will add some to the cost.

I wouldn't have a 10/22 with the standard basic trigger. The BX is around $100, or you could have a gunsmith work on the factory trigger.

https://ruger.com/products/1022Sport...ets/31166.html

https://ruger.com/products/1022Sport...ets/31167.html

Other than that, they are the same basic rifle. You get rid of the barrel band which hurts accuracy and get a 20" medium weight target barrel and chamber. You also get a stock designed for a grown man shooting optics instead of a kids stock for shooting irons. They weigh about 7 lbs scoped so they aren't too heavy to use as a hunting rifle.

This is what a standard 10/22 should be. The basic carbine should be an option. Cost is surprisingly close, around $50 for a lot more rifle.

I have one of each. Two inch groups at 200 yards are possible with good ammo.

[Mike38]

A drop in trigger kit and a $200 scope and you can have a great time with a 10/22. That's all I've done to mine. With mid-grade ammo such as SK Rifle Match I can shoot less than 2 inch groups at 100 yards. On real calm days and I do my part, it's even better.

[JohnKSa]

I do 3 things to the 10/22s I buy.

1. Fix the trigger. Last one I had, the trigger was really bad. I fixed mine myself, but there are drop in parts that will do it quicker.

2. Do some VERY simple action bedding so that the action isn't loose in the stock. Doesn't have to be fancy, you just want the action to fit in there and not wiggle around even without the screw and the barrel band installed. Usually you can put three decent sized spots of some kind of thick glue in the stock around the receiver, one in back and one on each side. Then put some plastic wrap over the spots and install the receiver so it squishes the glue into place. Put enough plastic wrap on the spots so that the glue doesn't squeeze out around the edges and glue the receiver in place. Don't get carried away with a ton of glue and watch where it's going to impinge on the receiver to make sure it's not going to lock the receiver in place--don't put it where there's a lip or a hole in the receiver. Once the glue and plastic wrap are in place, push the receiver into the stock and install the stock screw. When the glue is set/dried, you can take the receiver out of the stock and the plastic wrap will usually just pull right off the glue. If not, you can trim any excess plastic wrap.

3. Do something about the front barrel engagement. It doesn't need to be free-floating, but it needs to be tight so nothing shifts around up there. One way is to make sure that the barrel band fits the barrel tightly and is tight on the stock. You can do this by putting a layer of tape inside the barrel band before you install it so that the barrel won't be slipping/moving around in relation to the band and so that the band won't move on the stock at all. Or you can leave the barrel band off altogether and put a self-adhesive felt furniture pad inside the barrel channel at the front of the stock to put some upward pressure on the barrel and keep it from bouncing on the stock when the gun is fired.

I've never had any issues with accuracy after those changes. Costs me some time and maybe a few bucks of materials. Last one I did, I reworked the trigger with a flat surface and a couple of grits of sandpaper so I didn't even need stones or files.

You could check the crown to see how it looks after shooting. If the carbon pattern on the muzzle is symmetric, it's good. I don't remember ever having to touch up the crown on a 10/22.

[FITASC]

I always chuckle when I see someone brag about how great their 10/22 is, only to find out the only OEM part is the serial numbered receiver - everything else has been replaced. And when I see how much some folks have spent, they could have bought a nice Anschutz and had cash left over.

[Plainsman]

3-D printing has now opened the door to completely homebuilt 10-22s including the reciever! No need for ANY Ruger parts or even a serial number…

[Webleymkv]

Is there some aspect of your 10/22 that you're dissatisfied with or doesn't meet your needs? While the modifications to a 10/22 are mainly limited only by one's imagination and budget, I'm largely of the opinion that if something isn't broken it shouldn't be fixed. My own 10/22 is a 40th Anniversary model which is the basic carbine with a black polymer stock, fiber optic iron sights, a BX-25 magazine included, and a little laser-engraved logo on the bolt. Other than buying several extra 10-shot rotary mags (I've not found the BX-25 to be satisfactorily reliable with bulk ammo), I've not seen the need to modify or buy any aftermarket parts for my rifle as it works just fine as the light, handy plinker and pest-dispatcher I bought it to be. Considering that the Ruger website lists nine different models of 10/22 and numerous sub-models amongst them, I have to wonder how much modification is really necessary if one just buys the model/sub-model best suited to their needs to begin with.

[44 AMP]

A drop in trigger kit and a $200 scope and you can have a great time with a 10/22.

I've been having a great time with mine over the past 40 years, cheap 3x9 mounted in the 1 inch .22 claw mount rings. The only non stock part is the magazine catch, I replaced the flat Ruger one with one that has a protruding lever. The rest of the gun is 100% stock, no work of any kind done on or to it.

Shoots great, trigger isn't match grade, but so what? Its entirely usable. Meets and exceeds my needs for a .22LR, and does so without ANY significant additional investment or mods to the gun.

[NEPrepper]

Not much needed. Better sights or an optic is about the only mod I would make