What do you do about a "shot out" bore?

[Scorch]

JES reboring has an excellent reputation and charges $250. That's about the same as a decent blank, with no additional costs for threading, chambering, contouring and finishing, which can run the cost up to twice that or more. Plus the rebored barrel will fit the stock perfectly and still have the original sights.

Yes, you can buy a premium blank for $250, or buy a good blank for $120 (gmriflebarrels.com), then thread and chamber. Reboring, even with someone as good as JES, you will seldom wind up with a premium quality barrel since you started out with a barrel of unknown steel quality (hard spots, inclusions, cracks, stress areas, etc). And $250 to JES just covers reboring, shipping is extra. So you're back to $300-$350 pretty quick.

[stagpanther]

Yes, you can buy a premium blank for $250, or buy a good blank for $120 (gmriflebarrels.com), then thread and chamber. Reboring, even with someone as good as JES, you will seldom wind up with a premium quality barrel since you started out with a barrel of unknown steel quality (hard spots, inclusions, cracks, stress areas, etc). And $250 to JES just covers reboring, shipping is extra. So you're back to $300-$350 pretty quick.

Suppose you have a barrel that you want rebored that wasn't especially good in it's first "incarnation"--is it also possible a rebore could make a better, straighter, stress relieved bore--or is it a general rule of thumb that a second bore cut on a barrel will always have more inherent defects than when it received it's first?

[eastbank]

you can still find rem 722,s in 244 in very good condition for a good price, i bought one last year for 600.00 with a 6x leupold and ex bore. you could part yours for out at least 400-450, 150-200 for the stock- 250-300 for the reciever- 50-75 for the bottom metal- ? barrel to be rebored.

[Unclenick]

It's a grade of hBN powder, like his bullet coating. It is super fine and coats everything with the light orange dust. Very slippery stuff. When you shoot, it will blow out into the bore with the propellant, lubricating it. So it cuts down copper deposits for the same reason coating bullets does, but it takes less work. Like coating bullets, the resulting friction reduction will cost you a little bit of velocity until you adjust your loads. On a .308 W load that shot a 168-grain SMK at about 2650 fps, I had to add about 0.4 grains of powder to bring velocity back up, same as with moly-coated bullets. And, be aware your powder measure hopper and everything else it touches will get some of it on, though I'm not sure that isn't a good thing for uniform dispensing. My first check as to whether it made any difference to volumetric dispensing accuracy was inconclusive, though. But it certainly didn't hurt anything.

When I saw what it was, after mixing powder I got my rifle bore bare-metal clean and mixed a little of the powder with alcohol and put that on a patch and coated the bore with it upfront as a kind of pre-conditioning. I was figuring to prevent a situation where some carbon got in the way of it. I don't know if it made a significant difference or not, but that's what I've done with moly in the past, and it seemed to eliminate a settling-in period.

I'll detail this more when I get done with the experiment I started. I'm trying to squeeze double data out of loads with this setup, but good weather will have to come back and be about the same several days in a row to complete it.

[RC20]

A lot of misinform and conjecture.

The reality is that if you shoot it a lot you will wear it out and the cost of a new barrel job easily exceeds buying a low cost rifle on sale by double the amount.

You have shipping costs, you have gun smith costs (labor is no longer cheap).

If its a hunting gun (though they tend to last forever to low shooing) buy a new one.

If you are gong to shoot a lot and you are not rich etch, get a Remington or a Savage that you can put your own barrels on. Not Competition class but you can come close with that.

As for a barrel demise, its in the throat. It wears, if you watch COAL you will fine its getting longer and longer to touch the lands.

You can extend life if not at top accuracy by extending the bullet though it gets too far out at some point. That is where I am at with my target 06. Bullet is about as far out as it goes.

You may or may not have lands cracked and broken (mine are cracking with a few chips off). Once those are gone so is the target accuracy though it might be ok for hunting (not that many hunt with a 8 lbs bull barrel). At 5-1000 rounds the barrel is at the end of its life (next one I will log rounds but I have been shooting that barrel for 40 weeks a year and 50 rounds a session for 5 years)

New barrel is on the way but like evry9ing else, its a long process (3 months)

Muzzle wear is fine but guns (barrels) don't wear out at the muzzle, its the throat.

Remington and Savage were the first of the spin in pre fit barrels and many mfgs out there for them.

Others have joined in but Rem and Savage have the best range of offerings.

The Boyds Featherweight TH stock makes a great one, its a hunting stock that suits me to a T for target and the fit is almost perfect (a bit of clean out at the rear tang). If ou put a large diamter barrel on you need to sand it out but its not a solid stock, it has a large air gap and I have sanded out to 1 inch bull and still have ledges on the fore stock.

As for a re-bore or redo. $20 to ship a barrel, $20 back and even those that will cut them down and re-thread, cost is about the same as a new barrel.

[stagpanther]

It's a grade of hBN powder, like his bullet coating. It is super fine and coats everything with the light orange dust. Very slippery stuff. When you shoot, it will blow out into the bore with the propellant, lubricating it. So it cuts down copper deposits for the same reason coating bullets does, but it takes less work. Like coating bullets, the resulting friction reduction will cost you a little bit of velocity until you adjust your loads. On a .308 W load that shot a 168-grain SMK at about 2650 fps, I had to add about 0.4 grains of powder to bring velocity back up, same as with moly-coated bullets. And, be aware your powder measure hopper and everything else it touches will get some of it on, though I'm not sure that isn't a good thing for uniform dispensing. My first check as to whether it made any difference to volumetric dispensing accuracy was inconclusive, though. But it certainly didn't hurt anything.

When I saw what it was, after mixing powder I got my rifle bore bare-metal clean and mixed a little of the powder with alcohol and put that on a patch and coated the bore with it upfront as a kind of pre-conditioning. I was figuring to prevent a situation where some carbon got in the way of it. I don't know if it made a significant difference or not, but that's what I've done with moly in the past, and it seemed to eliminate a settling-in period.

I'll detail this more when I get done with the experiment I started. I'm trying to squeeze double data out of loads with this setup, but good weather will have to come back and be about the same several days in a row to complete it.

Thanks for that. I've read that David also advises using his throat and finishing bullets even on brand new barrels as a means of extending their life, I get a bit nervous about doing that (I know you don't do the full 50 load treatments).