Is this a safe way to remove the wedge? - Page 2

45 Dragoon · October 25, 2015, 06:08 PM

My apologies, I thought we were talking right out of the box (first time removal).

After the first time out, the butt of a screwdriver (plastic or wood) should be enough. Of course, with the right setup, there's no need to remove the wedge till you're ready to clean it (back home/camp). So, your hammer is home or at camp . . . . . . .

I'm just yanking your chain a little.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com

James K · October 27, 2015, 03:05 PM

I haven't seen one lately, but for years they sold an aluminum tool that worked well and wouldn't mar or deform the iron of the gun. I always used a plastic hammer and never had a wedge fail to come out. The spring should not have to be held down; the "locking" part is just a hump, not a sharp edge.

Jim

AKexpat · October 27, 2015, 06:41 PM

Quote:

The spring should not have to be held down; the "locking" part is just a hump, not a sharp edge.

Jim

Heh-heh.

Unless one owns a 1963 (XIX) (first year of manufacture) ASM Replica 1848 Pocket Pistol 6" Squareback TG with load lever. The right-end of the wedge spring is much more than a bump and has a nearly vertical left edge. The wedge is very easy to remove only if one uses thumb-nail pressure on the RH end of the spring to remove the wedge while pushing the wedge to the left. The pistol I have has the wedge fairly easy to remove in this manner. The arbor is actually a very good fit to the barrel arbor recess (Goon needs to chime in here). Actually no need for the wedge capture screw on the left side of the barrel unless one is clumsy while fieldstripping the wedge, barrel, and cylinder in the field. I would post a pic but I have done so many times here.

There are many anomalies with this ASM pistol that conflict with many modern (2000 + date) Italian copies as well as the original Colts, including the rammer pivot screw entering from the right side, and the rammer pivot slot having terrible machining. Pietta and Uberti have gone to CNC machining since ~2000 and all of the older copies are a hit or miss situation, and that presents another collector era insofar as replicas are concerned.

Jim

madcratebuilder · October 28, 2015, 05:04 PM

If the wedge is that tight don't hammer on it, it'll just damage the finish. Find someone, or a shop, with a arbor press, out in 10 seconds.

October 25, 2015, 06:08 PM	#26
45 Dragoon Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2013 Posts: 657	My apologies, I thought we were talking right out of the box (first time removal). After the first time out, the butt of a screwdriver (plastic or wood) should be enough. Of course, with the right setup, there's no need to remove the wedge till you're ready to clean it (back home/camp). So, your hammer is home or at camp . . . . . . . I'm just yanking your chain a little. Mike www.goonsgunworks.com

October 27, 2015, 03:05 PM	#27
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	I haven't seen one lately, but for years they sold an aluminum tool that worked well and wouldn't mar or deform the iron of the gun. I always used a plastic hammer and never had a wedge fail to come out. The spring should not have to be held down; the "locking" part is just a hump, not a sharp edge. Jim

October 28, 2015, 05:04 PM	#29
madcratebuilder Senior Member Join Date: November 2, 2007 Location: Northern Orygun Posts: 4,923	If the wedge is that tight don't hammer on it, it'll just damage the finish. Find someone, or a shop, with a arbor press, out in 10 seconds.