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Old June 18, 2013, 08:44 PM   #26
Ifishsum
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Mine drips a little occasionally, usually if my alloy isn't quite as clean as it should be. I did lap the valve before I ever used it, and I also widened the hole just slightly with a drill bit. Whenever it starts to drip it's because of impurities in the melt - with real clean alloy it's a non-issue for me.
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Old June 19, 2013, 01:02 AM   #27
Jerry11826
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Come on folks

Err - Ah folks, I think we have gotten off subject here!

I wanted to learn WHY Lee pots leak. What, if anything, can be done to stop the leaking. The majority of posts report the pots leaks.

There are some smart people that post on this forum. Unfortunately I am not one of them. Surely, some gurus most know what is causing the problem.

Several posts indicate the problem is dirty lead. Don’t really buy that, as I used the RCBS Pro Melt to melt tire store wheel weights and range salvage from the early ‘80s till the early 2000's. No leaks! Also, as Snuffy points out, just about everything floats in molten lead. But doesn’t that include dirt, sand and other crud? Therefore, don’t understand cleaning out the pot regularly. Wouldn’t any “crud” that peeled off the pot just float to the surface to be skimmed off. Have never cleaned my RCBS pot in the 25 - 30 years I have owned it.

I do flux the mixture frequently. Usually several times using a “pea size” piece of bullet lube, whenever I add lead to pot.

Adding weight to the valve control seems to make some sense. The RCBS valve control appears to be much heavier than the Lee. More sealing pressure on the flow valve control rod.

Come on folks. Help me out! Why do Lee pots leak and can anything be done to stop the leaks?

Thanks,

Jerry
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Old June 19, 2013, 05:57 AM   #28
dahermit
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Come on folks. Help me out! Why do Lee pots leak
Poor design (not heavy enough to seal), less than perfect fit between valve and valve seat.

Quote:
and can anything be done to stop the leaks?
Add weight to the valve rod. Lap the valve and seat.
If those two things do not solve the problem, remove the valve system and replace the valve with a self-tapping metal screw and use a dipper. Questions answered.
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Old June 19, 2013, 10:34 AM   #29
Jerry11826
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Hi Dahermit,

Thanks for your somewhat brusque reply. Didn't really answer question, simply restated other responses.

However, I guess I need to stop going to "Strarducks" for coffee. Put $5.00 in jar every day. When / if the Pro Melt quits I will have enough to hopefully buy a new a new Pro Melt.

Wouldn't consider ladle casting - Why would anyone? Started casting with a cast iron pot and ladle. Never go back. Bottom pour casting is 2X - 3X faster.

Jerry
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Old June 19, 2013, 11:30 AM   #30
Rifleman1776
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Wouldn't consider ladle casting - Why would anyone?
Because it works and is fuss free.
I used to do bottom pour with a good pot. I would go back if I ever get a good pot. But, for now, I don't do enough to justify buying a Lyman and will stick with my El Cheapo Lee.

Last edited by Rifleman1776; June 22, 2013 at 09:55 AM.
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Old June 19, 2013, 05:44 PM   #31
pete2
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I have 2 of the old 10lb pots, I haven't used them for about 20 years but they really are one of Lee's best products next to the powder dippers. I bought the pots when I was poor and loved them. Prior to that I used a ladle, makes good bullets but so slow it wasn't funny. I'll buy the 20lb Lee pot if I ever get back into casting.
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Old June 19, 2013, 06:28 PM   #32
dahermit
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Bottom pour casting is 2X - 3X faster.
You think so because you have never seen me casting with two identical molds (two-six cavity Lees at the same time for instance), for each bullet I cast, and the benefit of having worked in production for many years. You guys with bottom Lee bottom pours spend more time swearing, trying to get the leaks to stop, clearing debris, trying to flux with the valve systems in the way, than you do casting. Not to mention culling out the bullets with dirt/imperfections in them.
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Old June 19, 2013, 06:32 PM   #33
dahermit
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Didn't really answer question, simply restated other responses.
Previous posters answered your questions...you just do not like the answers.
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Old June 21, 2013, 12:36 PM   #34
hornetguy
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You are just funnin' us.
Lee pots don't leak.
Attached Images Leepot-1.jpg (115.0 KB, 35 views)
What the....??? Did you fall asleep while you were casting?

I've seen wine bottles used as candle holders with less drippage than that, and they were using candles that were SUPPOSED to drip.

My Lee 20 pounder will drip a tiny bit, depending on how clean my alloy is, but that's just crazy.

I'd have to chalk it up to operator error. Either you didn't clean up as you went, or if it leaked that bad, that fast, your error was in continuing to use it.
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Old June 21, 2013, 05:32 PM   #35
Vance
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That happens when you turn on the pot and walk away and wait for it to heat up. Due to the handle not having enough weight on it, when the lead starts melting, the rod starts to float up in the lead and the valve opens and you have run away lead pot. I had that happen once. Adding a couple of ounces at the end of the handle kept it from happening again.
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Old June 22, 2013, 09:43 PM   #36
res45
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Replace the wooded knob with one made of steel the added weight will stop the drip if you have a good seal.

About once a year I clean my pot out put a little valve grinding compound in the valve where the rod fits into and give it a spin for awhile with and a cordless drill. It cleans things up nicely and help promote a good seal.
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