Help with misfiring 1860 colt replica - Page 2

Wayner · December 19, 2005, 05:38 AM

You explained it at the end G, when you explained how the Rem hammer is and the Colt hammer is in relation to the nipple. All guns are not that way with quality control and all. Some hammer faces are off and only hit a fraction of the circular tip on the cone of the nipple. That can set the cap off but sometimes not consistantly and... the hammer hitting only a small part of the cone usually hammers it down eventually and makes the top of the nipples cone "not perpendicular" with the axis of the nipple. That means the cap hits the high part of the nipple cone and stops short of being fully seated since the cap goes on the nipple straight but the top of the cone is at an angle. If the top of the nipples cone is at an angle and the cap goes on straight then underneath the cap the cone is touching only a small part of the cap. I could draw it easier than say it and I hope you can see what I'm saying. Putting some color on the hammer face and letting the hammer down on the cone of the nipple can show where the color is on the cone is where the hammer hits it. Partial coverage means a partial contact of the hammer to the nipple cone. The color put on the hammer face has to be thin stuff and have no real thickness or height to it. Prussian Blue machinists die is a good thing to use. Hey, explaining the mandrel to screw a nipple into so it can be chamfered is a good thing to let people in on. That would be something difficult for the average kitchen table gunsmith to do without a lathe though. I think a piece of thin leather could be wrapped around the nipple to protect it. What do you think about that? Sometimes a nipples cone can be stoned down(careful to keep the top of the cone perpendicular with the axis of the nipple) to get a loose cap size to fit snug because the cone is tapered widder as it goes toward the threads. Before stoning the cone down it has to be determined that there is extra reach of the hammers face to hit a shortened nipple. I've found over the years that a new set of nipples can help because nipples vary and if one nipple can't find a cap size to fit then another nipple may. People seem to have good things to say about Treso alloy nipples. The gold ones.

gmatov · December 19, 2005, 11:27 PM

Wayne,

If I have all the taps needed, ( I know I don't have all the metrics ), I'd make 'em to demand and ship 'em for like 2 bucks to cover shipping, sized to fit a 3/8 drill on the shank end, mebbe even 1/4.

Yeah, I can see where it IS possible for the hammer to not hit square. AND to ding the nipple so it is parallel to the hammer face. That would be good, in a way. Now the hammer hits it square. But, we do pull them to wash the gun, don't we, and we don't number them to go in the same chamber. That means that the nipple that is flat to the hammer last shoot might be in the next chamber, next shoot, and the "point" is in the wrong place.

I gotta see if there is anywhere to find the inside diameter of the different brands of caps. Regardless of the post above about manufacturing tolerances, I think the little copper cups are formed within a thou, for that brand. Not gonna buy Rem 11's with 5 thou diff from tin to tin. Rem to CCI, mebbe 5 or 10 thou difference, brand to brand, same "size".

I mentioned that the CCI 11's are a b****h to seat on my '60, and Rems slip on and grip real well. So, CCI IS smaller, mebbe even thicker copper. Both fall off my Pietta Rem, 'less you squeeze them, and hard.

Ah, well.

Cheers,

George

December 19, 2005, 05:38 AM	#26
Wayner Senior Member Join Date: December 8, 2005 Posts: 116	caps ect. You explained it at the end G, when you explained how the Rem hammer is and the Colt hammer is in relation to the nipple. All guns are not that way with quality control and all. Some hammer faces are off and only hit a fraction of the circular tip on the cone of the nipple. That can set the cap off but sometimes not consistantly and... the hammer hitting only a small part of the cone usually hammers it down eventually and makes the top of the nipples cone "not perpendicular" with the axis of the nipple. That means the cap hits the high part of the nipple cone and stops short of being fully seated since the cap goes on the nipple straight but the top of the cone is at an angle. If the top of the nipples cone is at an angle and the cap goes on straight then underneath the cap the cone is touching only a small part of the cap. I could draw it easier than say it and I hope you can see what I'm saying. Putting some color on the hammer face and letting the hammer down on the cone of the nipple can show where the color is on the cone is where the hammer hits it. Partial coverage means a partial contact of the hammer to the nipple cone. The color put on the hammer face has to be thin stuff and have no real thickness or height to it. Prussian Blue machinists die is a good thing to use. Hey, explaining the mandrel to screw a nipple into so it can be chamfered is a good thing to let people in on. That would be something difficult for the average kitchen table gunsmith to do without a lathe though. I think a piece of thin leather could be wrapped around the nipple to protect it. What do you think about that? Sometimes a nipples cone can be stoned down(careful to keep the top of the cone perpendicular with the axis of the nipple) to get a loose cap size to fit snug because the cone is tapered widder as it goes toward the threads. Before stoning the cone down it has to be determined that there is extra reach of the hammers face to hit a shortened nipple. I've found over the years that a new set of nipples can help because nipples vary and if one nipple can't find a cap size to fit then another nipple may. People seem to have good things to say about Treso alloy nipples. The gold ones.

December 19, 2005, 11:27 PM	#27
gmatov Junior member Join Date: September 20, 2005 Posts: 346	Wayne, If I have all the taps needed, ( I know I don't have all the metrics ), I'd make 'em to demand and ship 'em for like 2 bucks to cover shipping, sized to fit a 3/8 drill on the shank end, mebbe even 1/4. Yeah, I can see where it IS possible for the hammer to not hit square. AND to ding the nipple so it is parallel to the hammer face. That would be good, in a way. Now the hammer hits it square. But, we do pull them to wash the gun, don't we, and we don't number them to go in the same chamber. That means that the nipple that is flat to the hammer last shoot might be in the next chamber, next shoot, and the "point" is in the wrong place. I gotta see if there is anywhere to find the inside diameter of the different brands of caps. Regardless of the post above about manufacturing tolerances, I think the little copper cups are formed within a thou, for that brand. Not gonna buy Rem 11's with 5 thou diff from tin to tin. Rem to CCI, mebbe 5 or 10 thou difference, brand to brand, same "size". I mentioned that the CCI 11's are a b****h to seat on my '60, and Rems slip on and grip real well. So, CCI IS smaller, mebbe even thicker copper. Both fall off my Pietta Rem, 'less you squeeze them, and hard. Ah, well. Cheers, George