Oiling the S&W 642 and similar hide-a-hammer guns?

Carmady · August 31, 2015, 02:50 PM

How do you routinely oil these things since putting a couple of drops of oil on the hammer involves side plate removal?

Dave Chuppa · August 31, 2015, 10:49 PM

I use a spray oil and with grips off just spray the oil up in there using the suplied tube. If you don't use a spray just drop some oil in there. I spray in between trigger and frame. Any place I can get it in. I then let it sit a while so the excess if any will run out. Then I wipe down the hole gun. I never take the side plate off. If I think it needs to be cleaned out I spray gun Scruber or break clean up and in and let it run out. Let it dry and then lube.

Carmady · September 1, 2015, 07:40 AM

Thanks, Dave. I've yet to use a spray lube, never needed to, so that idea didn't surface.

MrBorland · September 1, 2015, 08:18 AM

IMO, a properly-lubed revolver only rarely needs re-lubing. Certainly not what I'd consider "routinely oiling". When it gets to the point when it might need re-lubing (maybe once a year or 5-10kish rounds), it likely could also use a good cleaning, in which case it's best to remove the sideplate.

Dave Chuppa · September 1, 2015, 08:54 PM

I have shot a lot of reloads. Some were very dirty. I don't take off the side plate any more. I spray the internals of my Revolvers with Gun Scruber or Break Cleaner until it runs out. (On a Polymer gun I use Ballistol) I let it dry then lube. I have in the past removed the side plate to see the results and it was always spotless. I have done this for over 20 years and I'm happy with the way my guns have held up and functioned. I don't see a need for change now. If I shoot clean factory ammo I don't use the Break Clean or Scruber as much. The Ballistol works fine for cleaning and lube.

Sgt127 · September 1, 2015, 11:31 PM

Light oil. Ballistol is good. Remove grips. Squirt oil in the frame where the hand comes through. All up around the trigger. A few drops in the frame along the mainspring. Work action a few times. Blow everything out with compressed air. Plenty will be left to keep it lubed for a couple more years.

Model12Win · September 1, 2015, 11:56 PM

Rem oil has an aerosol spray. A shot of that up the frane, with the grips off, should work nicely at evenly distributing the oil.

CajunBass · September 2, 2015, 04:55 AM

I just put a drop of oil in any hole I can find in the frame, and I mean just a drop, and only once in a great while. It'll find it's way to where it needs to go.

**Mike Irwin** · September 2, 2015, 10:23 PM

I use grease. Not oil. Grease stays put and lubricates long term.

P5 Guy · September 3, 2015, 04:20 PM

A LGS had a S&W guy in to do trigger work on all purchased S&W handguns. Decades ago, that guy put a little dab of teflon bearing grease on all the parts that moved behind the side plate.

Sgt127 · September 3, 2015, 09:43 PM

Back in the early 80's, Dallas PD issued S&W K frames. When the range staff took apart a gun, they hosed it with silicone spray, blew it out a little with compressed air and, that was it. They swore a dry lubed gun would run better and longer than an oily or greasy gun.

If you open a new Smith, they are very dry inside. Just a little oil on a couple pins.

James K · September 3, 2015, 10:11 PM

Grease is OK in some places where it can be easily removed, like slide rails. But inside a revolver or in the lockwork of an auto pistol or bolt of a rifle, grease can harden and if left long can literally "gum up the works."

I vote for the light oil approach.

Jim

SgtGunner · September 5, 2015, 09:51 AM

Oil? What's that?

Oh yea, the black messy stuff I keep forgetting to put in my car...

Seriously though, I don't put a lot of thought into oiling my wheel guns, just a few strategically placed drops and keep on shootin'.

**Mike Irwin** · September 5, 2015, 10:07 AM

How many decades are you planning on not thoroughly cleaning your gun, Jim?

Newer synthetic greases can go literally decades without hardening.

Oil can also sludge over time, and adding more oil on top of sludge oil is never a good idea.

The moral of the story is learn how to clean your guns properly and then use the right lube.

Skeets · September 12, 2015, 02:27 PM

Good posts and great info,thanks guys!

Carmady · September 25, 2015, 04:50 PM

I used regular gun oil to keep it simple. Thanks for all the replies. Here it is before being fired with a Barami Hip-Grip.

bedbugbilly · September 25, 2015, 09:20 PM

Or . . . for regular maintenance . . . remove side plate, drill and tap and install a large angled grease zerk (makes it easy to get to) . . . three full lever full overtime you service your car . . . .. you'll know you have enough in when it squirts out around the trigger . . .

Sevens · September 25, 2015, 10:56 PM

I have many revolvers, most of them are Smith & Wesson. Of all my S&W revolvers, only two of them came to me *NEW* in box. Produced in 1988 and 1989 respectively, they are a 17-6 and a 686-3.

Neither of these has ever had the sideplate off since they put it in place in Springfield. And neither of these has ever had any oil, grease, lube, solvent or schmegma willingly poured, shot, dripped, sprayed or otherwise directed inside of them. Ever.

Each has seen many thousands of rounds. I did not keep round counts back in the day, something I do keep track of these days. I can only estimate at this point... the 686 likely has north of 6k, more than half of which has been .38 Special. The Model 17 typically got fed one or two bricks each weekend when I was in my formative years. I can't imagine it has any less than 10k through it.

I don't lube the guts of any of my revolvers, but those two in particular I am dead sure certain have never, ever been lubed.

Carmady · September 26, 2015, 08:22 AM

I like the grease fitting idea. The ISL hole could be put to good use.

I'll be taking the less is best approach with the oil. Thanks.

1goodshot · September 26, 2015, 08:29 AM

I spray CLP in there then blow it out will a little compressed nitrogen

August 31, 2015, 02:50 PM	#1
Carmady Senior Member Join Date: February 26, 2013 Location: on the lam Posts: 1,736	Oiling the S&W 642 and similar hide-a-hammer guns? How do you routinely oil these things since putting a couple of drops of oil on the hammer involves side plate removal?

August 31, 2015, 10:49 PM	#2
Dave Chuppa Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Posts: 448	I use a spray oil and with grips off just spray the oil up in there using the suplied tube. If you don't use a spray just drop some oil in there. I spray in between trigger and frame. Any place I can get it in. I then let it sit a while so the excess if any will run out. Then I wipe down the hole gun. I never take the side plate off. If I think it needs to be cleaned out I spray gun Scruber or break clean up and in and let it run out. Let it dry and then lube. Last edited by Dave Chuppa; August 31, 2015 at 10:55 PM.

September 2, 2015, 04:55 AM	#8
CajunBass Senior Member Join Date: May 6, 2005 Location: North Chesterfield, Virginia Posts: 4,789	I just put a drop of oil in any hole I can find in the frame, and I mean just a drop, and only once in a great while. It'll find it's way to where it needs to go. __________________ For God so loved the world, that He gave His only begotten Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish, but have everlasting life. John 3:16 (NKJV)

September 12, 2015, 02:27 PM	#15
Skeets Member in memoriam Join Date: April 6, 2015 Location: Indiana Posts: 583	Good posts and great info,thanks guys! __________________ Skeets "Over Kill Never Fails"

September 25, 2015, 09:20 PM	#17
bedbugbilly Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2009 Posts: 3,290	Or . . . for regular maintenance . . . remove side plate, drill and tap and install a large angled grease zerk (makes it easy to get to) . . . three full lever full overtime you service your car . . . .. you'll know you have enough in when it squirts out around the trigger . . . __________________ If a pair of '51 Navies were good enough for Billy Hickok, then a single Navy on my right hip is good enough for me . . . besides . . . I'm probably only half as good as he was anyways. Hiram's Rangers Badge #63

September 1, 2015, 07:40 AM	#3
Carmady Senior Member Join Date: February 26, 2013 Location: on the lam Posts: 1,736	Thanks, Dave. I've yet to use a spray lube, never needed to, so that idea didn't surface.

September 1, 2015, 08:18 AM	#4
MrBorland Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 2,614	IMO, a properly-lubed revolver only rarely needs re-lubing. Certainly not what I'd consider "routinely oiling". When it gets to the point when it might need re-lubing (maybe once a year or 5-10kish rounds), it likely could also use a good cleaning, in which case it's best to remove the sideplate.

September 1, 2015, 08:54 PM	#5
Dave Chuppa Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Posts: 448	I have shot a lot of reloads. Some were very dirty. I don't take off the side plate any more. I spray the internals of my Revolvers with Gun Scruber or Break Cleaner until it runs out. (On a Polymer gun I use Ballistol) I let it dry then lube. I have in the past removed the side plate to see the results and it was always spotless. I have done this for over 20 years and I'm happy with the way my guns have held up and functioned. I don't see a need for change now. If I shoot clean factory ammo I don't use the Break Clean or Scruber as much. The Ballistol works fine for cleaning and lube.

September 1, 2015, 11:31 PM	#6
Sgt127 Senior Member Join Date: May 14, 2002 Posts: 1,068	Light oil. Ballistol is good. Remove grips. Squirt oil in the frame where the hand comes through. All up around the trigger. A few drops in the frame along the mainspring. Work action a few times. Blow everything out with compressed air. Plenty will be left to keep it lubed for a couple more years.

September 1, 2015, 11:56 PM	#7
Model12Win Junior member Join Date: October 20, 2012 Posts: 5,854	Rem oil has an aerosol spray. A shot of that up the frane, with the grips off, should work nicely at evenly distributing the oil.

September 2, 2015, 10:23 PM	#9
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 14, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,642	I use grease. Not oil. Grease stays put and lubricates long term.

September 3, 2015, 04:20 PM	#10
P5 Guy Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2005 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 1,804	A LGS had a S&W guy in to do trigger work on all purchased S&W handguns. Decades ago, that guy put a little dab of teflon bearing grease on all the parts that moved behind the side plate.

September 3, 2015, 09:43 PM	#11
Sgt127 Senior Member Join Date: May 14, 2002 Posts: 1,068	Back in the early 80's, Dallas PD issued S&W K frames. When the range staff took apart a gun, they hosed it with silicone spray, blew it out a little with compressed air and, that was it. They swore a dry lubed gun would run better and longer than an oily or greasy gun. If you open a new Smith, they are very dry inside. Just a little oil on a couple pins.

September 3, 2015, 10:11 PM	#12
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Grease is OK in some places where it can be easily removed, like slide rails. But inside a revolver or in the lockwork of an auto pistol or bolt of a rifle, grease can harden and if left long can literally "gum up the works." I vote for the light oil approach. Jim

September 5, 2015, 09:51 AM	#13
SgtGunner Senior Member Join Date: March 20, 2000 Location: SW Florida.....land of the snowbirds! Posts: 279	Oil? What's that? Oh yea, the black messy stuff I keep forgetting to put in my car... Seriously though, I don't put a lot of thought into oiling my wheel guns, just a few strategically placed drops and keep on shootin'.

September 5, 2015, 10:07 AM	#14
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 14, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,642	How many decades are you planning on not thoroughly cleaning your gun, Jim? Newer synthetic greases can go literally decades without hardening. Oil can also sludge over time, and adding more oil on top of sludge oil is never a good idea. The moral of the story is learn how to clean your guns properly and then use the right lube.

September 25, 2015, 10:56 PM	#18
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,775	I have many revolvers, most of them are Smith & Wesson. Of all my S&W revolvers, only two of them came to me NEW in box. Produced in 1988 and 1989 respectively, they are a 17-6 and a 686-3. Neither of these has ever had the sideplate off since they put it in place in Springfield. And neither of these has ever had any oil, grease, lube, solvent or schmegma willingly poured, shot, dripped, sprayed or otherwise directed inside of them. Ever. Each has seen many thousands of rounds. I did not keep round counts back in the day, something I do keep track of these days. I can only estimate at this point... the 686 likely has north of 6k, more than half of which has been .38 Special. The Model 17 typically got fed one or two bricks each weekend when I was in my formative years. I can't imagine it has any less than 10k through it. I don't lube the guts of any of my revolvers, but those two in particular I am dead sure certain have never, ever been lubed. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

September 26, 2015, 08:22 AM	#19
Carmady Senior Member Join Date: February 26, 2013 Location: on the lam Posts: 1,736	I like the grease fitting idea. The ISL hole could be put to good use. I'll be taking the less is best approach with the oil. Thanks.

September 26, 2015, 08:29 AM	#20
1goodshot Senior Member Join Date: November 11, 2001 Location: chandler,az Posts: 931	I spray CLP in there then blow it out will a little compressed nitrogen