What did you do in the reloading room today?

[Shadow9mm]

Just a little ongoing check in on what you have been working on.

Ill start,

Sized and swaged the primer pockets on about 500pcs of 223 brass. Planning to start trimming tomorrow. Just finishing up a complete revamp of my reloading process, kind of having to start all over, really looking forward to the results.

De-prime
Wet tumble
Anneal (new)
Size
Mandril case mouth expansion (new)
Swage
Trim
Vibratory tumble to get the lube off
Ready to load

Gonna be finishing up a load workup with CFE223 and some RMR 69g match/hunting bullets

[Metal god]

I recently started shooting rifles again . This has given me the bug again and Im starting to pull all my rifle stuff out . Started looking through old notes , looking through components and inventory.

Last week I tried to shoot for real accuracy for the first time in really years , boy am I Rusty haha . It didn’t help that two of my rifles were not set up correctly, and I was quite uncomfortable shooting. So today I just did some things to correct those issues like moved a Scope foward , padded the cheek riser among other adjustments . I’m also waiting for a new barrel to arrive to install . This weekend I’ll be loading up some rounds to confirm their accuracy from last week’s trip which I’m not even sure if anything I shot was confirmable since I was not shooting well .

On the whole, I’m pretty excited to get back into rifle shooting and I’m actually looking forward to Reloading for rifle again .

[Shadow9mm]

Annealed about 550pcs of 223 brass today. Coming along nicely.

[Unclenick]

I ran an experiment with a method of tightening loose primer pockets in some well-used 308 cases. Looks promising, and I will post it if it works consistently.

I'm finding 3D printing really useful for making small tools and fixtures, and I used it to make a centering fixture in the above experiment. Frankenmauser has done more with it than I have, but it's got me wondering how many folks are adopting 3D printing for one reloading purpose or another? It's so easy to make a reloading funnel to custom fit a neck and shoulder on any particular cartridge, for example, and with any drop tube length you want built into it.

[Shadow9mm]

Originally Posted by Unclenick

I ran an experiment with a method of tightening loose primer pockets in some well-used 308 cases. Looks promising, and I will post it if it works consistently.

I'm finding 3D printing really useful for making small tools and fixtures, and I used it to make a centering fixture in the above experiment. Frankenmauser has done more with it than I have, but it's got me wondering how many folks are adopting 3D printing for one reloading purpose or another? It's so easy to make a reloading funnel to custom fit a neck and shoulder on any particular cartridge, for example, and with any drop tube length you want built into it.

always wondered if roll sizing would help with that, kind of push the base of the brass back in

[Unclenick]

Good question! I have no idea. I expect the fly in the ointment would be convincing the brass to roll inward rather than extrude it into greater length that gets trimmed off the neck. It probably does some of both.

[Shotgun Slim]

I loaded a bunch of 40 cal rounds for my grand daughters. I find myself doing less shooting and more reloading and caddying for the pair at shoots,which is ok because it means time spent with them. I thought I owned numerous nice guns but it turns out I'm really just a caretaker/cleaner of guns that the girls own.

[Nick_C_S]

It's still cold here (southern Idaho) for the most part, so things are a bit slow in the handloading room (aka garage).

Last time out at the range (last week - and it was cold), I ran into a bunch of 556 brass that was left behind. I collected 381 pieces (counted by weight), all "LC 24 (nato)" headstamped. The empty boxes were in the trash. It was clearly factory (not reloaded) brass.

So that's what I'm working on when warmth permits. I've sized them all. They still need to be trimmed and the primer pockets reamed. I'm in no hurry. I don't plan on loading a lot of 223 this year (that was last year, with the election jitters). 223 ammo happens to be cheap (relatively) right now, so I just bought a couple cases.

[FrankenMauser]

For the last week, or so, I've been batch-processing LC 5.56 brass into .17-223. I know it sounds like a small number, but I think I am working with about 300 cases right now.
In theory, it is size-and-load.
But the reality of my chamber and experience is that it is more like (and this is the *simplified* version, after years of experimentation):
Lube.
Size in (highly modified) .204 Ruger FL sizing die.
[If horribly oversized, lube, then go to a .223 Small Base sizing die. And then lube again and go back one step.]
Size in .17-223 sizing die, with modified shell holder.
Trim to length.
Chamfer/deburr.
Anneal.
Lube.
Size in .17-223 sizing die, with modified shell holder.
Load.
Fire.
Clean.
Lube.
Size with modified shell holder.
Trim.
Chamfer/deburr.
-Finally read for regular use.

But, I will be honest.
I did none of that today.
I spent most of the day working on the electronics and programming for an electronically controlled target that myself and a friend thought up about a month ago.
I have the CAD design done, but need to verify electronics before moving forward.
Now the 'lectronics are 90% done, and I will see tomorrow if I can move forward with the CAD design, or if it needs a remodel.
But, first, I have a match to shoot!!

Why am I posting that here?
Well, it is on my reloading bench.
Gun stuff is gun stuff. It all happens on the same bench(es).

[Shadow9mm]

Originally Posted by FrankenMauser

For the last week, or so, I've been batch-processing LC 5.56 brass into .17-223. I know it sounds like a small number, but I think I am working with about 300 cases right now.
In theory, it is size-and-load.
But the reality of my chamber and experience is that it is more like (and this is the *simplified* version, after years of experimentation):
Lube.
Size in (highly modified) .204 Ruger FL sizing die.
[If horribly oversized, lube, then go to a .223 Small Base sizing die. And then lube again and go back one step.]
Size in .17-223 sizing die, with modified shell holder.
Trim to length.
Chamfer/deburr.
Anneal.
Lube.
Size in .17-223 sizing die, with modified shell holder.
Load.
Fire.
Clean.
Lube.
Size with modified shell holder.
Trim.
Chamfer/deburr.
-Finally read for regular use.

But, I will be honest.
I did none of that today.
I spent most of the day working on the electronics and programming for an electronically controlled target that myself and a friend thought up about a month ago.
I have the CAD design done, but need to verify electronics before moving forward.
Now the 'lectronics are 90% done, and I will see tomorrow if I can move forward with the CAD design, or if it needs a remodel.
But, first, I have a match to shoot!!

Why am I posting that here?
Well, it is on my reloading bench.
Gun stuff is gun stuff. It all happens on the same bench(es).

Cool stuff! What bullet weight and kind of velocities are you getting with 17-223? Seems like it would be screaming.

[stagpanther]

Believe it or not, I've decided to revisit the 350 legend since I bought so much of the stuff when it was first rolled out. I'm specifically interested in exploring high-velocity 115 gr loads, I should be able to get them up around 3,000 fps assuming they can stabilize and can feed in my AR build.

I'm finding 3D printing really useful for making small tools and fixtures, and I used it to make a centering fixture in the above experiment. Frankenmauser has done more with it than I have, but it's got me wondering how many folks are adopting 3D printing for one reloading purpose or another? It's so easy to make a reloading funnel to custom fit a neck and shoulder on any particular cartridge, for example, and with any drop tube length you want built into it.

I'ved used a CNC router and CO2 laser for a few years now and have really been pondering getting a 3D printer; I've sorta been looking at an upper-end Creality one that can also feed carbon fiber material--there's even one that will do some kind of metal mix I think,I'm not interest in making plastic toy soldiers and would like precision tough parts capability. What do you and Franken recommend?

[Shadow9mm]

Originally Posted by stagpanther

Believe it or not, I've decided to revisit the 350 legend since I bought so much of the stuff when it was first rolled out. I'm specifically interested in exploring high-velocity 115 gr loads, I should be able to get them up around 3,000 fps assuming they can stabilize and can feed in my AR build.

I'ved used a CNC router and CO2 laser for a few years now and have really been pondering getting a 3D printer; I've sorta been looking at an upper-end Creality one that can also feed carbon fiber material--there's even one that will do some kind of metal mix I think,I'm not interest in making plastic toy soldiers and would like precision tough parts capability. What do you and Franken recommend?

I had a creality ender 3 v2 neo. Thing was a nightmare and their customer service was abysmal. Their firmware was shutting off the z motor after print completion despite the g-code keeping it on, dropping the gantry onto the prints. I got a bambu x1c and its been smooth sailing ever since. If you print carbon or glass fiber make sure you wear gloves when you handle it and seal it. The fibers are dangerous stuff, will get into your skin when handeling, and into your lungs if they get loose. I stick to pla, petg, and asa (asa is basically a low voc abs)

Printed some lee lock ring wrenches. Designed a chute for my hornady lock n load swage kit, so i dont have to manually take the brass off, it gets pushed up and over and goes down a chute off the back of the press into a box. Designing some 100rnd 223 specific loading trays. Working on a powder baffle for the lee perfect powder measure. Looked for some boxes for component bullet storage. And current working on a gatling gun.

[stagpanther]

I had a creality ender 3 v2 neo. Thing was a nightmare and their customer service was abysmal. Their firmware was shutting off the z motor after print completion despite the g-code keeping it on, dropping the gantry onto the prints. I got a bambu x1c and its been smooth sailing ever since. If you print carbon or glass fiber make sure you wear gloves when you handle it and seal it. The fibers are dangerous stuff, will get into your skin when handeling, and into your lungs if they get loose. I stick to pla, petg, and asa (asa is basically a low voc abs)

Printed some lee lock ring wrenches. Designed a chute for my hornady lock n load swage kit, so i dont have to manually take the brass off, it gets pushed up and over and goes down a chute off the back of the press into a box. Designing some 100rnd 223 specific loading trays. Working on a powder baffle for the lee perfect powder measure. Looked for some boxes for component bullet storage. And current working on a gatling gun.

Thanks fr the recommendations Shadow--I'll look into the bambu. Do you by any chance have experience with a 3D scanner for making mesh files? I know you can do it for free using an iphone's facial recognition--but it's a a bit of a PITA with inconsistent results in my experience.

[Shadow9mm]

Removed

[Shadow9mm]

From my research actually scanners aren't much better. I just don't think they have the technology mastered yet, at least at the consumer level. I'm hoping in the next 2-3 years they will have it squared away and priced more reasonably.

The x1c will do it all, tpu, nylon, polycarbonate, glass, carbon fiber, and wood fiber. Even glow in the dark which is super abrasive. Tpu is pretty cool too. I love their ams system with rfid tags. Cost $1200 for the combo, but it's been worth it. As long as the files are good, and i add supports where needed, it prints flawlessly every single time.

[mgulino]

Loaded some test rounds in 270Win for my uncle. Federal cases and Sierra 135 gr BTHP using IMR4831. Have to get out to the farm and try them out.

[FrankenMauser]

Cool stuff! What bullet weight and kind of velocities are you getting with 17-223? Seems like it would be screaming.

Sidebar first:
I accidentally won 1,900 factory-sealed bullets at auction, even a 1,000 pack that was still in factory heat-shrink, thinking that I (would never win with my bid, and) could flip them quickly.
Turned out that I was wrong (on both counts).
All Hornady bullets.
90% 25 gr HPs (old stock), 10% 20 gr Vmax (old, but more recent), and a few 17 Gr of some variety (Vmax? Not the NTX).
I tried selling the bullets for years (even here, I think). Never got any bites, even at 40% of original price - not even then-current market price.
I eventually resigned myself to the incomprehensible position of having to shoot them. So, I ordered a barrel.

I've been working with and fighting this thing for about 4-5 years, and still don't really have anything "dialed" yet.
Most loads are running 3,800-3,900 fps. But the little bit of trustworthy load data suggests that 4,200 fps is possible, even in an AR.
Mine is an AR, but I haven't seen a bullet/powder combination that will let me run that fast without pushing things more than I'd like.

So, it is capable of .220 Swift speeds, but, at least in my rifle, seems like I'd have to push harder than I think is prudent.

I'm finding 3D printing really useful for making small tools and fixtures, and I used it to make a centering fixture in the above experiment. Frankenmauser has done more with it than I have, but it's got me wondering how many folks are adopting 3D printing for one reloading purpose or another? It's so easy to make a reloading funnel to custom fit a neck and shoulder on any particular cartridge, for example, and with any drop tube length you want built into it.

Aw, thanks.
I absolutely love having a 3D printer available.
98% of my use is making tools, fixtures, jigs, etc. (I know that number is not true, but it is how I look at it).
I find the printer indispensable for making a "thing" while I do something else, that will make my life easier in a short time. It can do the "work", while I do something else.
Yes, I am sorry. That is very vague. But that is how it is.

So very often, I find myself thinking, "I can't do this job easily without a [whatcha-ma-jig]. I wish I had a [whatcha-ma-jig]."
And then I remember that I can probably get the plastic-squirting robot to make a [whatcha-ma-jig] if I can figure out how to design it.
I am not always successful in trying to design the [whatcha-ma-jig]. But it sure does feel good when I figure it out.

And then there are the really cool parts that really make me happy to have the plastic-squirting robot.
I obtained a Swiss 1889 that was missing the magazine disconnect parts. Which means it was also missing the magazine retaining parts.
After a few iterations of trying to recreate those parts, I realized that I could print a tiny little piece to simply lock and retain the magazine. Three cents worth of plastic, that printed in like 4 minutes, and my Schmidt-Rubin is now barking in anger again. And I don't care, at all, that it has a redneck fix to make that happen.

I also recently obtained a Marlin Model 70P ("Papoose") that had a bent and nearly non-functioning magazine catch. They are nearly impossible to find as replacement parts.
After a few months of head scratching and rubber band use, I realized that I could put a coil spring behind the mag catch, if I designed a 3D printed housing for the spring.
Works great. Cost about $0.37, including several iterations to get the geometry just right.

And .25 Auto...
I am one of the 6-35/100 idiots in the world that reload .25 Auto.
I had to print my own reloading tray to hold the tiny little cartridges, because nothing else on the marked was suitable.
And then I printed a powder funnel for the same reason.
I love having my printer.

I won't even get into the shot shell presses, die wrenches, storage racks, tool racks, one-time-use tools, primer pocket sorter, and other stuff. The tools that get printed once and then disappear into regular use are my favorites. You forget that they're printed. They're just part of the toolbox. Those are my favorites, because I took 10-15 minutes to make the "thing" and I never think about it again. I just use it.

I love having a 3D printer.


Edit:
I have no real training in drafting / CAD design. I figured that crap out as I needed. It is even easier for people now, with Youtube videos.
If I can do it, anyone can.

[Unclenick]

That's great! I'm behind your progress, but I'm feeling pretty much the same way thus far. I've always had CAD software (well, since the '80s) and it exports in STL format for my printer's slicer to convert to G-code and send to the printer, so I didn't need to learn anything to draw. In addition to simple tools and gauges, I've made things like a knife rack for the kitchen drawer's silverware tray to keep the steak knives oriented with their sharp edges down. My wife likes to bake cookies and grumbled about never being able to roll the dough to an even enough thickness all over, so I made her roller collars that slip over the rolling pin handles and ride the ends of the pin to keep it the right horizontal height above the board. I mention the kitchen utensils to prove there are things a man can make with the printer to get the wife to grudgingly concede the tool you really bought to make a primer seating depth gauge with is actually good for something useful.

And I expect more people will follow. The printers are getting more and more plug-and-play so you have to know less and less to make them work. AI will probably be able to do drafting at some point, and then describing the thing may be all that will be necessary. We shall see.

[FrankenMauser]

I don't want to keep on the tangent of printing, instead of reloading; but wanted to say:
Use .step files if your CAD software and slicer are compatible. The resolution is much better - particularly for round parts, arcs, and curves.

[Unclenick]

It never occurred to me that it would matter at the printer resolution. I had to look up an example. I have STEP support, so I'll give it a go. Thanks!

Today, I am playing with the Bison Armory pneumatic case volume measuring tool. I want to compare it to multiple water measurements to see how it tracks.

[stagpanther]

I don't want to keep on the tangent of printing, instead of reloading; but wanted to say:
Use .step files if your CAD software and slicer are compatible. The resolution is much better - particularly for round parts, arcs, and curves.

I already have a lot invested in Aspire and Lightburn--it looks like 3D printers like the Bambu can import .xdf/.stl files. I run into parts (like Labradar's piccatinny trigger cable holder) frequently that I figure must have been made with a 3D printer.

[Unclenick]

Bambu's slicer can run STEP files, too. I am using Creality Print, just because that's my printer brand so the setup is easy. But since I can also load G-code files into the printer from a thumb drive, any generic slicer that takes files my CAD software can export can also be made to work.

A lot of plastic small parts seem to be 3D printed these days. A clip-on sight with another couple of inches of radius for the Labrador is on my list. But I've been thinking it might be useful to design versions of concentricity gauges and other simple reloading tools and put the files up where others could get them to print their own copies. The plastic wouldn't last like metal and won't be as rigid or smooth, but it would let a person try something before investing in a metal version. Unless, of course, that person had access to a 3D metal printer.

[FrankenMauser]

My brother and I have tested many "incomplete" rifles with 3D printed sights that I designed. As long as they are affixed well, they are just as repeatable as anything else. Some used standard screw holes as a reference/datum/alignment point (like Mauser sight bases). Some used hose clamps (such as a Jap Type 38). One was just friction-fit on a tapered barrel. Several used some flat or dovetail on the barrel as a reference or locating point. They were all better than nothing, and often almost as good as steel sights.

I mean, heck, two weeks ago, my nephew took out a new-to-him Springfield 1903 that had no rear sight.
He was talking about hopefully using the receiver ring as the rear reference for basic testing. I pulled some painters tape out of my range bag and told him, "fold part of it over, stick it on, and cut a notch - or run it parallel to the barrel and just have two vertical references (one being the front sight)."

He shot roughly a 12" group at 100 yd, before "adjusting" the sight with my 'Swiss Army Knife' scissors, and shooting about 8".
His father, my brother, shot about a 6-8" group at 100 yd.
I managed what I think was about a 6-8" group at 100 yd.
All the while, we had to hold about 26" low and 12-18" right, because the notch in the tape wasn't centered or deep enough.

But it was repeatable!

Tape works.
But with a little time in CAD, a 3D printed sight is much better.
I prototyped some receiver sights for Marlin 444s and 336s with my 3D printer about 10 years ago. The final design went to my machinist exactly as printed and was machined in 4130.
Works great, and I love it.
That morphed into a variation for Marlin 1894s (shorter receiver and closer mounting holes). The first, 3d printed, prototype is still on my own 1894 in .44 Mag, because it worked right out of the box* for an MPBR of 175yd or so with a 100 yd zero (I don't remember exactly). I should get it machined in metal. But it works and has been there for 6(?), 8(?), or however many years. So why mess with it...?
* (past design experience is great for iteration and variation!)

[black mamba]

I knocked out 180 44 magnums on the ol' Rock Chucker single stage today . . . and I'm tired! Four different bullets, four different powders and three different primers tested my patience. I took a break for lunch, which helped.

[oldbear1950]

I loaded a full box of 45 colt rounds, and 10 45-70 rounds with new cast bullets