Full length case sizing die for pistol brass

jski · October 17, 2020, 07:53 PM

I need a sizing die that resizes the full length of the 357 Magnum case. Currently I’m using Lyman dies but they’re not full length sizing. Redding has a “dual ring” size die, not sure about that?

Recommendations?

FITASC · October 17, 2020, 08:07 PM

The die will not size the small portion held in the shell holder, otherwise it should resize the rest.

**44 AMP** · October 17, 2020, 08:46 PM

Am curious, what are you doing that the standard Lyman full length resizer isn't good enough???

jski · October 17, 2020, 08:50 PM

I’m using Starline brass that I resized and the last 1/4” to 1/2” in getting tight in the chamber.

burrhead · October 17, 2020, 09:29 PM

Quote:

I’m using Starline brass that I resized and the last 1/4” to 1/2” in getting tight in the chamber.

That's pretty much the way it goes unless you want to roller size. $$$

https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/...ng-your-brass/

**Aguila Blanca** · October 17, 2020, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jski

I’m using Starline brass that I resized and the last 1/4” to 1/2” in getting tight in the chamber.

What does it measure?

**44 AMP** · October 18, 2020, 01:08 AM

the .357 case specs .379" from the mouth all the way down to the groove above the rim. Sizer dies normally deliver something smaller than that, as far down as they reach.

If your dies aren't doing that, then there is an issue with the dies. If they are, then the dies aren't at fault and something else is causing your problem.

Dirty chambers? soft brass? over expanded case heads from too hot loads are just some of the things that can cause the "last 1/2" or 1/4" to be "sticky".

I've used Lyman dies since the 70s and my .357 set is from that era and still makes fine ammo.

I've never used Starline .357 so i can't speak to it, but I have used some Starline stuff in other calibers without issues.

Maybe your dies are worn out, no way to tell over the internet. What are the dimensions of your sized brass?

noylj · October 18, 2020, 02:05 AM

All pistol sizing dies I have ever seen are full-length.
Stupid question: from your description, you have a bulge just above the case web. You can try a Lee or Hornady sizing die--they go down a bit further than the other brands I have tried. Now for the stupid question: are you shooting them in a revolver? I have gotten bulges shooting .38 Spl and .357 Mag in specialty auto-pistols (S&W M-52, L.A.R. Grizzly, Desert Eagle) but NOT in a revolver.
Plunk Testing:
Take the barrel out of the gun (revolvers: use the cylinder). Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times.

Remove and inspect the round:

1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long

2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp

3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case

4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit

5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.

jetinteriorguy · October 18, 2020, 12:20 PM

If you’ve been shooting a lot of .38 sp without cleaning the chambers you probably have carbon built up from the shorter case preventing your longer .357 cases from going all the way in. Or you don’t have your sizing die set up correctly. Another thought, if these are carbide dies, which they most likely are, perhaps the carbide sizing ring has fallen out unnoticed.

**44 AMP** · October 20, 2020, 03:37 AM

Quote:

I have gotten bulges shooting .38 Spl and .357 Mag in specialty auto-pistols (S&W M-52, L.A.R. Grizzly, Desert Eagle) but NOT in a revolver.

Interesting...
I can't say about the S&W M-52, never had one. But I have had several Desert Eagles a couple of LAR Grizzlys, Marlin 1894s, T/C Contenders and even a Coonan, and never noticed a bulged case from any of them.

And all my .38 and .357 Mag brass is sized through the Lyman FL die I bought in the early 1970s.

maybe they just aren't making things like they used to??

AzShooter · October 20, 2020, 05:33 AM

Try a different manufacturer for brass. I and many others have had problems with Starline as of late.

If your cylinder is clean after shooting .38s you should not be having a problem. That is the first place I'd look. Scrub the cylinders with a chamber brush, not a boar brush and use a good solvent.

Check to see that your die is tightl If it came loose you may also have that problem.

Get some Federal, RP or Winchester brass. All work well out of my .357s.

rodfac · October 21, 2020, 08:08 AM

Quote:

I and many others have had problems with Starline as of late.

Not me, and I use a lot of Starline handgun brass.

I like Jetinterior's suggestion regarding the usual .38 special crud build up when used in a .357 chamber.

And too, assuming the dies are installed correctly, ie. screwed down so that they kiss the shell holder, any excessive bulge below that point indicated an over pressure situation that's expanded the case web. I'm not in favor of trying to save a .357 case to be used with 30,000+ psi loads with that type of damage. Kind of like "ironing out" the bulges in .40 S&W cases due to unsupported chambers...Rod

October 17, 2020, 07:53 PM	#1
jski Senior Member Join Date: March 5, 2016 Posts: 374	Full length case sizing die for pistol brass I need a sizing die that resizes the full length of the 357 Magnum case. Currently I’m using Lyman dies but they’re not full length sizing. Redding has a “dual ring” size die, not sure about that? Recommendations?

October 17, 2020, 08:07 PM	#2
FITASC Senior Member Join Date: December 6, 2014 Posts: 6,654	The die will not size the small portion held in the shell holder, otherwise it should resize the rest. __________________ "I believe that people have a right to decide their own destinies; people own themselves. I also believe that, in a democracy, government exists because (and only so long as) individual citizens give it a 'temporary license to exist'—in exchange for a promise that it will behave itself. In a democracy, you own the government—it doesn't own you."- Frank Zappa

October 17, 2020, 08:46 PM	#3
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 30,495	Am curious, what are you doing that the standard Lyman full length resizer isn't good enough??? __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

October 18, 2020, 01:08 AM	#7
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 30,495	the .357 case specs .379" from the mouth all the way down to the groove above the rim. Sizer dies normally deliver something smaller than that, as far down as they reach. If your dies aren't doing that, then there is an issue with the dies. If they are, then the dies aren't at fault and something else is causing your problem. Dirty chambers? soft brass? over expanded case heads from too hot loads are just some of the things that can cause the "last 1/2" or 1/4" to be "sticky". I've used Lyman dies since the 70s and my .357 set is from that era and still makes fine ammo. I've never used Starline .357 so i can't speak to it, but I have used some Starline stuff in other calibers without issues. Maybe your dies are worn out, no way to tell over the internet. What are the dimensions of your sized brass? __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

October 18, 2020, 12:20 PM	#9
jetinteriorguy Senior Member Join Date: April 28, 2013 Posts: 3,476	If you’ve been shooting a lot of .38 sp without cleaning the chambers you probably have carbon built up from the shorter case preventing your longer .357 cases from going all the way in. Or you don’t have your sizing die set up correctly. Another thought, if these are carbide dies, which they most likely are, perhaps the carbide sizing ring has fallen out unnoticed. Last edited by jetinteriorguy; October 18, 2020 at 12:27 PM.

October 17, 2020, 08:50 PM	#4
jski Senior Member Join Date: March 5, 2016 Posts: 374	I’m using Starline brass that I resized and the last 1/4” to 1/2” in getting tight in the chamber.

October 20, 2020, 05:33 AM	#11
AzShooter Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2006 Location: Surprise, Az. Posts: 766	Try a different manufacturer for brass. I and many others have had problems with Starline as of late. If your cylinder is clean after shooting .38s you should not be having a problem. That is the first place I'd look. Scrub the cylinders with a chamber brush, not a boar brush and use a good solvent. Check to see that your die is tightl If it came loose you may also have that problem. Get some Federal, RP or Winchester brass. All work well out of my .357s.