Where do I go from here?

[BattleAx]

After a few months of looking I’ve finally acquired all the equipment I need to start reloading for my .270. Ive never reloaded before but I’m ready to learn. I have the hornady manual and the lee manual for reference.

My question is this, where should I start? Should I buy a few different powders or just stick to one? What is a good bullet to use just to shoot paper that is a good balance of accurate and inexpensive?

I have about 100 rounds of mixed fire formed brass from Winchester, Hornady, And Federal that I’ve saved that I’ll be using.

What is the best primer to start with?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

[5whiskey]

I started like you. I didn’t learn from my dad, friends, or other family. I learned from here and THR. What I did? I just picked something. I knew the calibers I wanted to load, so I took a manual with me to the gun shop. I picked win 760 as a powder for 270. There are better powders, but it works and I use it to this day. I’m not trying to sell you on it, get what you can find. Just start with one that will work with the caliber and work up with it. You can try others later, but start with one.

Just get some large rifle primers. Anything will work.

I am particular to Sierra bullets. Their game kings are accurate, inexpensive, and a decent hunting bullet. Good for paper or hunting. YMMV.

Oh, last thing. Save the heartache and pitch the federal brass after the 3rd or somloading.

[44 AMP]

Welcome to the forum, and welcome to reloading!

Before you start, a few questions, so we'll be better able to help.

First. what is "all the equipment"? From the Lee Loader kitchen table set to progressive presses, there's lots of possible equipment. What have you got and how are you setting it up?

Consider what you have been shooting for factory loads. Its usually a good idea to begin by making something about like those. If you're just going to load something to shoot paper with (for now), then there's no need to pay for premium hunting bullets.

What rifle do you have?

What is the component availability in your local area? Are you going to order items online?

The .270 is a .30-06 case and so you'll get around 140- 150 loads from a pound of powder, more or less depending on the exact powder charges used. The round uses standard large rifle primers,

130gr and 150gr bullets are the most common in .270. There are other weights, but you probably won't find them stocked on local shelves.

read the books, learn the terms, don't hesitate to ask about anything you don't understand, we're happy to help and will walk you though step by step if you need help getting started. There are a lot of tips, tricks and just general experience available here, welcome!
( and there are lots of powders that will work fine, I'd pick an IMR powder to begin with. Something between IMR 3031 (faster burning) and IMR 4350 (slower burning) will do fine to get you started.

[cptjack]

Jack oconners load. 4831 sc. One holer

[ReloadKy]

I am relatively new to reloading myself. I also got started just like you, by wanting to do it and acquiring the necessary pieces to start reloading. 270 is one of the first rifles I loaded for. The powder that my rifle likes best is IMR 4831 but I have also used 4350 and 4320 with some success. One thing that I would suggest, get a good bullet. When I started I began using a winchester powerpoint 130 gr because it was what I shot out of the rifle before and they were cheap. However, I got really frustrated. The bullets are not very uniform so when I loaded my OAL was different on every round I loaded. Also, they are adequate bullets but not the most accurate. I was reading a lot about reloading so I was wanting to get sub MOA groups which I eventually did, it just took some time. Any bullet from Hornady or Sierra ought to work just fine for you. Lastly, define your own success. Decide what you want to achieve. Do not let others tell you that you have to get this size group or this velocity or anything else. Accomplish what you want and be happy with it. HAVE FUN!!!!

[BattleAx]

Originally Posted by 5whiskey

I started like you. I didn’t learn from my dad, friends, or other family. I learned from here and THR. What I did? I just picked something. I knew the calibers I wanted to load, so I took a manual with me to the gun shop. I picked win 760 as a powder for 270. There are better powders, but it works and I use it to this day. I’m not trying to sell you on it, get what you can find. Just start with one that will work with the caliber and work up with it. You can try others later, but start with one.

Just get some large rifle primers. Anything will work.

I am particular to Sierra bullets. Their game kings are accurate, inexpensive, and a decent hunting bullet. Good for paper or hunting. YMMV.

Oh, last thing. Save the heartache and pitch the federal brass after the 3rd or somloading.

It’s funny, no one that I hunt with has any interest in reloading, they look at me like I’m crazy when I bring it up. Oh well different strokes...

I’ll check out the Sierra stuff as well. Ideally I would like to find an accurate bullet that I can have fun with at the range (nice 200 yd range in my area) and that will also work as my hunting round. I hunt in South Georgia so most of my shots are less than 100 yards unless I’m on some powerlines or something. Deer around here are not particularly large, most under 150 lbs.

Originally Posted by 44 AMP

Welcome to the forum, and welcome to reloading!

Before you start, a few questions, so we'll be better able to help.

First. what is "all the equipment"? From the Lee Loader kitchen table set to progressive presses, there's lots of possible equipment. What have you got and how are you setting it up?

I have a Lee challenger press that came as a kit, 50th anniv. I’m pretty sure. I also have a digital scale, some case prep stuff and I’m working on a wet tumbler now. Plus trays, ammo boxes and a reloading logbook.

What rifle do you have?

Winchester XPR. It has been pretty accurate with factory loads. Close to moa but then again I’m not the greatest shot, another skill I’m working on.

What is the component availability in your local area? Are you going to order items online?

I’m really not sure what I can get locally I have to do some looking but I would prefer to get all that I can buying locally because the hazmat fees hurt every time I add powder and primers to my cart when looking online. Bullets I will probably buy online because I would assume that will give me the greatest selection.

read the books, learn the terms, don't hesitate to ask about anything you don't understand, we're happy to help and will walk you though step by step if you need help getting started. There are a lot of tips, tricks and just general experience available here, welcome!
( and there are lots of powders that will work fine, I'd pick an IMR powder to begin with. Something between IMR 3031 (faster burning) and IMR 4350 (slower burning) will do fine to get you started.

Thanks for the advice.

Originally Posted by ReloadKy

I am relatively new to reloading myself. I also got started just like you, by wanting to do it and acquiring the necessary pieces to start reloading. 270 is one of the first rifles I loaded for. The powder that my rifle likes best is IMR 4831 but I have also used 4350 and 4320 with some success. One thing that I would suggest, get a good bullet. When I started I began using a winchester powerpoint 130 gr because it was what I shot out of the rifle before and they were cheap. However, I got really frustrated. The bullets are not very uniform so when I loaded my OAL was different on every round I loaded. Also, they are adequate bullets but not the most accurate. I was reading a lot about reloading so I was wanting to get sub MOA groups which I eventually did, it just took some time. Any bullet from Hornady or Sierra ought to work just fine for you. Lastly, define your own success. Decide what you want to achieve. Do not let others tell you that you have to get this size group or this velocity or anything else. Accomplish what you want and be happy with it. HAVE FUN!!!!

One of the main reasons I considered getting into reloading is because of some poor bullet performance last hunting season. Once I started going down that rabbit hole well, you know the rest...

Before that I never really considered bullet construction, had never heard of sectional density or ballistic coefficient and hadn’t really considered bullet weight at all. To say this past year has been a learning experience would be an understatement.

[Bimus]

With the 270 it will be in the older reloading books and magazines . As stated in the above post Jack Oconners wrote a lot about this cartridge .

[jmorris]

My question is this, where should I start?

From the beginning

You have the equipment already but the first place to start would normally be defining your goals as they and resources (aka money) are what guides your purchases.

If you want the most accurate, that’s actually a never ending process. If you wand cheap functional ammunition that’s pretty easy.

[daboone]

Reloading doesn't have to be rocket science. Read the intro info in the manuals you have. Then pay attention to the instructions that come with the die sets. These information sources will get you to good hunting loads. The most difficult part to do to improve your handloads will be keeping notes of the details of every batch and the results/performance. By starting low and doing work ups the fun part begins of building excellent performance for your guns (the rocket science).

[Nathan]

Ask yourself what do I want to do with this load....just reload easily and punch paper. Maybe just buying whatever bullet is cheapest at th3 local supply is the best way to get started. I would choose a boat tail over a flat base as flat base bullets can be hard to seat.

Then pick a powder/primer in your load manual that gives average to high velocities for that bullet.

[std7mag]

BattleAxe,
Welcome to the forum!
Sorry to hear about you wanting to reload. Lol You have only just begun asking questions, and scratching your head. It does get better over time, usually.

I started off reloading for 7mm Rem Mag with the Lee wack-a-mole kit.

For your application, i'd start with the Lee book, as it shows not just one manufacturer of powder.
Look at starting loads, don't get caught up on the velocities of max loads. Yours will probably shoot slower anyways.

The 130, 150 gr bullets are most common. Sierra makes a great bullet, but so do many others.
My plinking bullets are Hornady SST. Will group just fine, inexpensive (comparatively).

Din't forget to trim your cases.

Any questions just ask. Only stupid question is the one not asked.

Have fun, be safe!

Oh, and you can download Ramshot, Western Powder, Barnes, load data to your phone and take it with you. Alliant, Vitavhouri, and some others can be found online, while your standing there looking at powder/components.

[NoSecondBest]

Post your regional address (what part of what state, not your house number) and maybe someone on here will offer to give you some hands on help. I've helped others get started this way and made some good friends along the way. You'd be amazed at how many people would jump at the chance to give you a hand. You'd probably get a bunch of PM's offering to help. Good luck.

[Mule]

In many ways you are fortunate. When I started in 1974, there was no internet. I am self taught. The snowflakes I lived with were convinced I had sinister intent
Start with one bullet, 130, 140, 150, doesn't matter. And one powder. Currently I lean toward Varget. Do your case prep. Case length is important. Choose a powder charge safely below max. Slowly, carefully, load about 10 rounds. Follow a guide and learn the process.

Make a range trip. The most intimidating part is squeezing the trigger on your first round. Once you confirm that all your digits are still in place, and that you actually hit the target, the fun starts.

Welcome to my addiction.

[Grey_Lion]

BattleAx - Welcome - you're making a GREAT first step by simply asking for input -BRAVO
Before I bought my press, I collected 1000+ pieces of brass in my primary caliber to build my stock. While I was doing that, I read everything I could get my hands on and watched a BUNCH of videos. In me - I was driven by what I like to term " appropriate paranoia " to be safe first - then accurate & consistent second.

My personal standard of quality is each round must be good enough to defend my family & myself. Anything less is immediately scrapped.

One bit of advice - besides learning how things work when everything goes right - which is how all the books are written and most manuals go as well, take the time & effort to seek out and read about when things go wrong. This is often a challenge.

Bit of advice #2.... as you begin you're going to develop a serious feel for your gear. If it feels wrong there's a GREAT chance that it is wrong. In the beginning ( first 2000 rounds or so ) when it feels wrong - check & measure everything til you gain experience and confidence.

Bit of advice #3.... keep things extremely basic and simple for the first 5000 rounds or so. No fancy add ons - no powder thrower - no primer feeder - etc. etc. do it all by hand, measure it all by hand, and learn before trying to get fancy or going for additional speed or automation. i.e. walk before you stroll or run.....

Bit of advice #4.... when you hit something questionable, take a picture and post the question here and you'll get 5 to 30 different explanations on why it may be happening and different ideas on how to remedy the problem. Take what you like & leave the rest. This bunch is a good bunch of guys with occasionally strongly held opinions.

Welcome

[olddav]

After you become acquainted with the basics of reloading, become familiar with the terms "load development", "ladder test" and optimal "charge weight". All contain useful information to be used in the realm of reloading.

[Lexspeed]

BattleAx, I am a noobie having just started reloading a couple months ago. I am on the same journey as you to try to gain experience and figure out what I am doing. LOL

One suggestion that was made to me that I will share with you is to buy the book, "The ABCs of Reloading" by C. Rodney James. It cost me $18.00 shipped from Ebay. It is a bit dated but has some great basic info on reloading that I welcomed learning.

[LeverGunFan]

A good book for new and not so new reloaders is "Things They Don't Tell You About Reloading" which is available here. It explains the process of reloading and gives many good tips to simplify the selection of components for new reloaders.

[T. O'Heir]

Read the How-to chapter in either manual. If you need video, there's a How-to on RCBS' site.
"...mixed fire formed brass..." Check the lengths(done in front of the TV) using your digital(just easier to read) Vernier calipres. Set the Vernier to the max case length given in your manual(2.540" is SAAMI(Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute. https://saami.org/ Case lengths are under Technical Info. Their site is a "Nice to have" thing only. Manuals give the lengths.) MAX case length for the .270.) and use it as a case length gauge. Anything longer than that needs trimming.
Minimum case length is 20 thou less(2.520"). So any case between 2.520" and 2.540" is OK. Best to have 'em all the same to start.
"...the Lee book, as it shows not just one..." Lee tests nothing themselves. They use the powder maker's data. Usually Hodgdon's. That does not mean the manual is no good though.
Partial to the Lyman book myself. Gives more loads, using more powders and bullet weights, than any manufacturer's book. They also give an 'accuracy' load for each bullet weight. That powder has proven to be a very good place to start for me for 40 years.
"...Only stupid question is the one not asked..." Needed repeating and bolding.

[RC20]

OP: To answer your quesitons.

1. Stick with one powder. I like 4350 (does not matter IMR, Hogden or Accurate though you can't just do same loads with those - they are the same burn rate and characteristic area. 4831 is also a good one, R17 might be but would have to look (its very close to 4350)
Others are also good and can get more if not available in your areas.

A single powder of the ones listed will get you decent results at worst and a good chance of doing well. This is learning time. If not the best for your gun its not wasted.

3. Bullet: 130 or 150 grain as mentioned. Sierra, Hornady are pretty common, Hornady tends to much better prices. Hunting type are fine (flat base and lead tip) those can be quite accurate as well.

4. Get one of the good manuals. I like Horandy and Sierra as they both have very good instructions as well as good offerings of bullet types and powder.
If cost is an issue get an Hornady 9. If not so much, X is their lattest.
Sierra is about to come out with a new one, I would wait though both are my go to and I have two copies of Sierra - one a 1971 my wife found for meat a garage sale, I have 3 copes of Horandy, one is 80s, the other is 9 and I do have X (you can see I like Hornady.)
There are other manuals out there, but I like that both mfgs have the whole range of bullet types so you can work with their loads across anything you find by another bullet mfg (carefully, starting low and work up) - they give you a starting load, max loads, loads in bewtween and speeds for what it was shot in, what the twist is, primer used and the details of the casing for trim.

I would run a small batch of 10 to start out with somewhere between lowest and mid load. That likely is not a real accurate load but it gets you feet wet in the process.

After that work up at .5 grains and do another 10, .5 more and 10 more. Don't go above half way between mid and max just yet. You should find a load in there that is fairly accurte and then focus on 3/10 above and below that. Don't go past max yet, maybe never depending on your gun.

You should be able to size, clean, primer and powder the cases you have (after 5 rounds you will have to look at trimming).

If you are going to shoot it a fair amount eh Gerard tri trimmer works wonders, it comes all setup to you 270 with a sample.

You will need to get a micrometer sooner or latter. Decent steal ones for a low price. Don't get plastic, too much give in those. Low cost is fine.

I would re-consider wet tumbling. While its very good, its more steps and you need a sink and drains for it. Dry tumbling works fine and I have yet to pry the dry tumbler out of my brothers hands despite his love of the wet process (you will always use it for something)

The Thumbler Ultra Vibe 10 is a a very good one. If price is an issue then any of the Frankfurt ones are fine. They take longer.

A lot depends on how much you reload and shoot. Wet tends to lend itself to a return on bigger batches and more shooting.

If you do wet, just get a food dryer mult stack from Walmart, they work perfectly and cost a whole lot less than the ones listed by a reload mgf.



2. Primer: Thats a tougher one, you can't go wrong with CCI.

[BattleAx]

Originally Posted by Mule

In many ways you are fortunate. When I started in 1974, there was no internet. I am self taught. The snowflakes I lived with were convinced I had sinister intent
Start with one bullet, 130, 140, 150, doesn't matter. And one powder. Currently I lean toward Varget. Do your case prep. Case length is important. Choose a powder charge safely below max. Slowly, carefully, load about 10 rounds. Follow a guide and learn the process.

Make a range trip. The most intimidating part is squeezing the trigger on your first round. Once you confirm that all your digits are still in place, and that you actually hit the target, the fun starts.

Welcome to my addiction.

Thanks guys for all the good advice, I have a lot to chew on.

I have been thinking about my initial range trip. I’m wondering if I should just load a handful of rounds at one(lower) charge just to check myself or should I go ahead and load some different charges. I’m thinking just loading one charge would be the correct answer but please give me some opinions on this.

[bobznew1]

Originally Posted by Grey_Lion

Bit of advice #3.... keep things extremely basic and simple for the first 5000 rounds or so. No fancy add ons - no powder thrower - no primer feeder - etc. etc. do it all by hand, measure it all by hand, and learn before trying to get fancy or going for additional speed or automation. i.e. walk before you stroll or run.....


Welcome

Out of all the great advice you've received in this thread, I think this might be at the top of the list. DO IT ALL BY HAND AT FIRST.

You would be amazed what you learn just from your own senses as you go through the process. The importance of touch and feel cannot be overstated. (After you've hand-primed a couple of thousand cases, you'll know when you've got a loose primer pocket. And after you've loaded a while with an RCBS Chucker, you'll learn what the "appropriate" amount of resistance felt is when using a FL resizing die.

There are plenty more examples. But get your hands dirty for a while. Don't short yourself the education just to make things happen quicker. I've been reloading 7mm rem mag cartridges for 21 years now, and I still hand measure every single powder charge. I also hand clean primer pockets, tumble (before and after resizing), and hand prime all cases.

Just remember, it's about the journey...

[BattleAx]

Originally Posted by RC20

OP:

I would re-consider wet tumbling. While its very good, its more steps and you need a sink and drains for it. Dry tumbling works fine and I have yet to pry the dry tumbler out of my brothers hands despite his love of the wet process (you will always use it for something)

The Thumbler Ultra Vibe 10 is a a very good one. If price is an issue then any of the Frankfurt ones are fine. They take longer.

A lot depends on how much you reload and shoot. Wet tends to lend itself to a return on bigger batches and more shooting.

If you do wet, just get a food dryer mult stack from Walmart, they work perfectly and cost a whole lot less than the ones listed by a reload mgf.

Is cleaning the brass a necessary step or is it more for looks? Does the inside of the case have to be cleaned?

[RC20]

The short answer is no, no cleaning is needed. Wipe the case when done sizing and you can go on.

To answer your other question, yes, load up 5 or 10 rounds and shoot them.

Make a dummy round with just the bullet and make sure it cycles first both easy chambering and the COAL is right.

For 100 years we pretty much either did not clean or tumbled. Wet cleaning that is effective is new. It may have some bench rest use in eliminating a carbon variable in a case, but not needed.

Same thing with primer pockets, you don not HAVE to clean them.

That said, I like clean brass. It makes me warm and fuzzy and proud. Not a bad thing.

There are some parts of reloading that are preferences and not have to. That is a preference.e MY brother now wet cleans as he likes it and his shop is setup for it. He is more detail oriented (OCB) - not a bad thing, just not me.

I tumble as I don't care about the inside and I can just dump in my vibratory and let them clean off for 8 hours (I do batch of 100- 150 in the 10 model)

I can dump them into a caulder my wife found for me that has large holes, sift out the media, turn em upside down and clang them and into the pan for next step.

They make a hand crank unit that does the same thing.

Part of the preference is WHEN you clan them. You will read that you have to clean them before so you don't scratch you dies with grit.

If its range pickup and dirty I will, but my own cases even if I drop one I wipe it off and I have yet to see scratched on my dies. Old wife's tail.

If they are tarnished from sitting before I process (range pickup) I will do so as well.

Most of the time I size and then tumble. It cleans the lube off and they are ready for the next step.

I also clean the pockets (not polish but a quick buzz on the RCBS prep tool) I don't know if it would keep building up carbon, I just do it. Others say not needed.

So again, a preference. I have never tried going with a batch long term to see if they do build up.

[jmorris]

I have been thinking about my initial range trip. I’m wondering if I should just load a handful of rounds at one(lower) charge just to check myself or should I go ahead and load some different charges. I’m thinking just loading one charge would be the correct answer but please give me some opinions on this.

Again, what is the ultimate goal?

[Don Fischer]

Originally Posted by 5whiskey

I started like you. I didn’t learn from my dad, friends, or other family. I learned from here and THR. What I did? I just picked something. I knew the calibers I wanted to load, so I took a manual with me to the gun shop. I picked win 760 as a powder for 270. There are better powders, but it works and I use it to this day. I’m not trying to sell you on it, get what you can find. Just start with one that will work with the caliber and work up with it. You can try others later, but start with one.

Just get some large rifle primers. Anything will work.

I am particular to Sierra bullets. Their game kings are accurate, inexpensive, and a decent hunting bullet. Good for paper or hunting. YMMV.

Oh, last thing. Save the heartache and pitch the federal brass after the 3rd or somloading.

Sounds about the way I started. Hornady book is as good as any I think.Stick to Hornady bullet's to learn on. 270 I think you said. Stick to slower powder's for heavier bullet's and quicker for lighter bullet's. You could also find that just the reverse is true in your rifle. I've only ever had one 270, just not a fan for whatever reason. Only bullet I used in it was the 140gr Hornady spire point/inter lock. It got stolen and I miss the rifle. Harrington-Richardson Ultra on a Sako L61 action right from the factory. Probably wasn't any better than the Mauser action they normally came with but I liked the older Sako's, only reason I bought it!

Powder to start with might be H 4350, IMR 4350, or other in that range. I'm thinking O'Conner liked 4831, IMR or H in those days. Seem's to me he loaded fairly hot loads too from what other's have said.