Hand checkering -- and then the gun's "finish"

[Sevens]

I know, oddball subject line but I wanted to give a clue to the question.

What I mean is, if I have a handgun and it's a stainless gun (not blued, not coated, not hard chrome'd or ROBAR'd or Tenifered or Parkerized or _____) and I handed it over to someone to hand-checker the front strap and MSH... would there then be any "finish" work that would need to be done afterward?

The pistol in question is my Coonan Classic, the regular original stainless gun. The areas in question are a dull, like bead-blast or matte stainless.

If it matters, the whole idea behind this is pure utility. I love the pistol and it's a heap of fun to shoot. It loves to be run hard and hand checkering in these two spots would be a god-send.

I know zilch about this kind of thing. Is it as simple as a (skilled) guy with a file? Or is there finish work that has to be done afterward?

Does anyone know someone who can/would accept this kind of job?

[1stmar]

If it's stainless there should not be anything else to do. Stainless is harder and some smiths may charge more. If you are new to checkering make sure you get the right lpi for your needs. Some think 20 is too coarse some think 30 is to fine and settle on 25. I like 30 or 25 myself.

[Dixie Gunsmithing]

Sevens, There is a special file for that, which has rows of spaced teeth, known as a checkering file, made for backstraps, etc. You'll also need some Swiss pattern files for creating the border. These files are made by Grobet, (Mfg. of Jewelers tools), and are expensive, as they are specialty files. The checkering file will set you back about $40-50 alone.

Files:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...s-prod488.aspx

I would also watch the video below, and there are others.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZvhpLzzg-0

Notice, that he uses a piece of stovepipe wire, tightly wrapped, as a stop, and layout blue, to tell where he's at.

[Sevens]

I actually pride myself on being smart enough to know what kinds of things I can, cannot, and simply should not do. I would love to say "did it myself!" but there is a certain creative and artistic genetic code that I was NOT blessed with. My pure genius is being astute enough to know that it's not a job that I should do.

But thank you.

I think a simple 20-25 lpi would be terrific. I simply want some purchase, I definitely don't need or want "cheese grater" or "fight through blood & gore" kind of tactile grip.

[1stmar]

Many of the smiths use a jig to help w the checkering. I don't know if the jig would fit the Coonan or not. You may need to find one who doesn't. I would start with alchemy custom weaponary. There are plenty that can do it.

If you are anal about cosmetics not sure I'd try it for the first time on a gun I care about. I've seen a lot that weren't straight and had bad diamonds.

[mete]

I would strongly suggest that you [ or someone else ] do it as FLAT TOP checkering . Going all the way to sharp points is hard on clothing if you carry and even hard on hands .Flat top is very secure without damage to hands or clothing . You also can do patterns by skipping areas and you can make it easy by staying away from inside curves !
If you have a case hardened frame like my P7 you have to grind off the case , then file .

[FrankenMauser]

The checkering job, itself, includes cleaning up any burrs or sharp edges (unless you want them). Beyond that, there should be no additional finishing (metal treatment) necessary.

I actually pride myself on being smart enough to know what kinds of things I can, cannot, and simply should not do. I would love to say "did it myself!" but there is a certain creative and artistic genetic code that I was NOT blessed with. My pure genius is being astute enough to know that it's not a job that I should do.

I completely understand.
I sometimes over-reach and exceed my skill level. But, I generally try to assess the situation well enough beforehand to know whether or not I should even try.

Just because I can think it, doesn't mean I should do it.

A year or two ago, I bought 8 LPI and 12 LPI Grobet checkering files to see about putting a pattern on a brass butt plate. Even with my Brownell's discount, it was an expensive experiment. The spacing is very uncommon. So, $100+ and a piece of scrap brass later (cutoff from the same butt plate material), I was the proud owner of two very expensive files that I may never use again ... and a smooth butt plate.

One of these days, I'll buy some kind of engraver/etcher, and have a machine do the job.

[Jim Watson]

I have a couple of flat top checkered guns and I approve of mete's post.

But a buck's worth of tape - stair tread, skateboard, wing walk, etc. - will do the same job as $200 checkering. Except look pretty.

[Dixie Gunsmithing]

FrankenMauser, I've done only a few, and it is time consuming. I would say that a man would be better off starting his pattern with the file, to get it spaced, and finish it with a graver and a chasing hammer, especially the coarser line numbers.

[Bill DeShivs]

There are methods other than checkering that will give you better purchase.
One is simply a piece of sandpaper wrapped around the front strap and secured under the grips.
Another is stippling, which can be done with punches or an electric engraving pencil.

[1stmar]

Good point bill. I used skateboard tape too. Very cheap, extremely effective and removable.

[Sevens]

For two years I've been using the grip tape. It does help. My issue is that it comes off -- especially with this pistol that I like to run wet. And I know what you're thinking... "more!" but the problem is that the grippy part is separating from the sticky part. The sticky part is like absolute glue stuck to the pistol and the damn grippy part strips away from it.

How bad? Like... if a metal worker knocked on my door with files in hand and offered free work, I'm not sure how quickly I could get this crap off the pistol.

The checkering is what I'd like here. I've done the tape.

[Hunter Customs]

For years I hand checkered 1911 front straps and mainspring housings at 20 LPI, then after many years of doing it my hands and elbows gave out on me.
So I knew I needed to come up with something that could be gripped as good as 20 LPI checkering that I did not have to do by hand.
I believe it was in 97 or 98 I came up with my "Speed Grip" front strap treatment that I could do on my mill.
The gun in the picture has the front strap done with this treatment.
There's other types of front strap treatments being done now and also machine checkering which is every bit as good as hand checkering if not better.
As for re-finishing the gun, it's no big deal to re-finish stainless with a matte bead blast finish.



Best Regards
Bob Hunter

[michaeldarnold]

Bob, ^^^That looks really cool! Different, but totally functional and the rounds go with the lines on the 1911.

Mike

[T. O'Heir]

"...would there then be any "finish" work..." Shouldn't be. SS usually doesn't get anything on it.
Having metal checkered won't be cheap. It's an entirely hand done thing. Time consuming. Knew a guy who did it long ago. Friggin' thing was like grabbing a shark's cake hole.
$200 checkering would look like it too.

[Dixie Gunsmithing]

Bob, what did you use on that? A small ball end mill, or a carbide burr?

[Dixie Gunsmithing]

T. O'Heir, I'm like you. I don't like full depth checkering as it is sharp. A flat square pattern is much better, to me. Even a diamond pattern, as long as it has flat top diamonds.

To be honest, a good deep stippling is as good, though some don't care for the look.

[Sevens]

Well, doing a simple bead-blast is certainly less involved than say a reblue or an aftermarket finish, but I would say it's still "involved" as it requires a 100% tear down (unless simply doing the checkering you do ALSO requires a 100% tear down)

I think the work you are showing is fantastic-- I don't suppose this is a paid service that you might offer?

I believe I would be extremely happy with that.

[Sevens]

I don't mind the look of stippling and as a reference, I'm getting a mental picture of what Jim Clark Sr did to nearly all the 1911's that he built and sold. His work kind of looked to me like he was simply hammering a punch in to the front strap.

The physical appearance would not likely win any beauty contests but the look does not bother me. I definitely enjoy the FEEL of the Clark stippling, but have to say that while I have picked more than a couple up and held them, I have not had the pleasure or experience of actually shooting a pistol with Clark or Clark-style stippling.

[Hunter Customs]

Mike, actually in person the rows of scallops look like rows of hexagons the ridges (for lack of a better word) between the hexagons is what really gives the gripping surface.

Dixie, that's done with a ball end mill, I'll reveal no more trade secrets.

Sevens I was not sure if you was asking me the questions but I'll answer them anyway.

Yes the receiver should be stripped of all parts before any work is done to it.
The reason for this is I have to put two thick plates on the receiver one on each side of the receiver, then I put a heavy mag tunnel filler in the receiver so nothing gets crushed when it's mounted in my milling vise.

Yes sir this is a paid service I offered for years but only on 1911 pistols.
I'm not sure my plates or mag tunnel filler will work with the Coonan Classic.

I will say one can grip my front strap treatment every bit as good as sharp 20 LPI checkering but yet it's not near as abrasive to the shooters hand or clothing.
I know this from years of experience of carrying and shooting 1911's in competition with sharp 20 LPI checkering.

I will also say, good machine checkering is actually better then the best hand checkering for the simple reason it's more precise with no overruns unless the mill operator falls asleep at the wheel, you can't beat a good mill for accuracy.
I could list names of smiths that claim to hand checker but in reality they farm the frames out to be machined checkered.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter

[Dixie Gunsmithing]

LOL! Bob, that's all right, as you answered my question; many thanks. The rest, I can do, and I think I'll give it a try on one of mine. I'm retired, so no competition from me.

[SGW Gunsmith]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with "full depth" metal checkering. There are quite a few LPI cutting tools available to do a very fine job of checkering the front strap, and several of the controls on whatever the owner feels they can handle. 20, 30, 40 and 50 LPI doesn't stray from the norm, as far as what a customer feels they'd like to have. I've never seen anybody use an "engraver" to do metal checkering when better equipment is available to get the job done in much less time, to produce a very reputable outcome. This is 30 LPI, per the customers request:



The extended magazine release was done at 40 LPI.

[Hunter Customs]

I just finished a stainless Government model Colt for a client one of the things on the list of things to do was my front strap treatment.
When finished with the frame modifications I done a satin bead blast finish on the frame using 270 glass as a media.
With the high polish on the pins and grip screws along with sharp edges of the slide having a polished appearance from my dehorning technique the gun had a very nice look to it and felt very good in the hand.
When the gentleman came to get the gun, he was extremely pleased and made the comment the gun felt so good in his hand that he did not want to put it down.
There's nothing like customer satisfaction.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter

[RickB]

This is my gunsmith buddy John, machine checkering a front strap.
Skip to 11:00 if you want to skip the mill set-up and just want to see the chips fly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivC3XB3zlbI

There is going to have to be some "refinishing" done, because the freshly machined surfaces are not going to match the original surface finish on the gun.

[mete]

BTW, you can checker or do other things to polymer frames ! I've even carved creatures like ducks into my Benelli stock ! ...