Changing grips on a S&W 3rd gen. auto?

[Joe Demko]

Yesterday, I picked up a S&W 4566 that I got for a decent price on Gunbroker. It's a New Hampshire state police trade-in gun. It shows a fair amount of holster wear on the sides of the slide. I field stripped it last night, the rails and other wear surfaces look pristine, as does the bore. The trooper who carried this one shot it very, very little. As an unexpected bonus, the night sights are still very bright. For well under $400, I'm quite pleased.
Now my question: the piece came with a Hogue rubber grip installed on it. I don't care for it and want to replace it with a S&W factory grip. But here's the thing, despite having previously owned a 4566, I don't know how to remove the grips from a 3rd gen auto. I liked the factory grips on my old one and it wasn't necessary to remove them for routine cleaning. They're one piece and there is a pin at the heel of the grip. I don't want to start prying or pounding without a clear idea of how to do this.

[David the Gnome]

Just punch out that pin and the grips will slide backwards and down off the frame. You'll have to pull the sides out a little bit so the clips inside will clear. With the rubber Hogue grips you don't have to worry as much but with the factory plastic grips you have to be very careful doing this or you'll crack the grips.

[Joe Demko]

Can I drive the pin out in either direction?

[fastbolt]

These are instructions that came with older 3rd gen guns, just for reference.









The grip pin may be removed and installed from either direction.

Care must be taken when replacing the factory grips to make sure the small angled plate at the left/front of the sideplate isn't unintentionally snagged and forced by the left front corner of the grip, or else the bottom of the sideplate (at the prongs which surround the left head of the sear pin) might be become damaged. This can result in functioning problems.

The front recessed hooks on each side of the grip, where they enter the frame window cutouts and slip over the front of the frame windows, must be securely positioned.

Make sure the mainspring and spring cap are properly captured ... and remain properly positioned ... during re-installation of the factory grip.

The rear of the grip must be firmly seated forward under the frame's tang. If it isn't the decocking lever might be obstructed and prevent normal decocking. If this occurs, it's usually easy to simply grasp the grip and squeeze, which will generally snap the grip the rest of the way forward. I'll post another reply including pics of this (due to posting limit on number of images).

Having to keep track of not tweaking the left front extension of the sideplate ... securing both grip hooks over the frame windows ... keeping the mainspring & cap in the grip's recessed shoulder ... and making sure the grip is fully forward under the grip tang ... can make for some distractions when installing the factory grip.

Now, removing the Hogue grips are much easier, because with the exception of the 69XX/4013TSW wrap-around 1-piece Hogues, the regular 3rd gen rubber Hogues are panels. Remove the screw and slide the grip panels off each side to the rear.

[fastbolt]

Here's a pair of images where the grip isn't fully installed in the proper forward position under the frame's tang. Notice how the lever is blocked from complete movement, preventing decocking.




Here's a pair of images showing the grip fully forward, allowing normal freedom of movement for the left decocking lever.




If you're installing Hogue grips, the instructions including are pretty good for explaining removal of the factory grips. Just don't forget to reinstall the factory grip pin when Hogue grips are used. A surprising number of folks forget the factory grip pin. If whoever replaced the factory grip on your gun forgot the grip pin, you can call and order one from the factory (or other places). If you call S&W, you need S&W part # 106070000 $0.78 GRIP PIN. The factory might even send you one at no cost if you explain you bought a gun lacking that important part (if that turns out to be the case). Just depends who you get on the phone in customer service.

It's not uncommon for the steel grip pin to shave off 1 or more small crescent slivers of steel or aluminum when installing the grip pin. Don't let it freak you out. I use a plastic mallet to install the grip pin with some brisk, judicious whacks. A steel hammer is not needed.

If you're uncomfortable with the process, a local gunsmith familiar with S&W 3rd gen pistols can handle it for you.

[Joe Demko]

Great information. Thanks!