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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 16, 2008
Location: Behind a computer
Posts: 100
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Refinishing Italian Grips
Does anyone else do this besides me? I would be interested to hear your methods and/or see pictures.
I don't like the glossy red finish on Uberti grips. This is my latest set, on a Cimarron, redone with Danish Oil (still curing). Obviously, the grain isn't comparable to a set of custom grips, but for stock grips it's not terrible. This gun is being antiqued. ![]() Last edited by Indian Outlaw; April 18, 2009 at 11:58 AM. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 8, 2008
Posts: 669
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My next set of grips i am going to make will be
out of tiger maple. ![]() |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 2, 2009
Location: Northeast for now
Posts: 266
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I used to see grips made out of Ivory dust and epoxy for sale (I know that sounds crappy but they looked great and after time wound turn yellowish)
Anybody gut a line on where to get these? |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: September 27, 2008
Posts: 68
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There was a guy named Longshot Logan over on the SASS board who used to refinish Italian grips/stocks. He did nice work. He died in 2007, I think. His website is still up.
http://members.cox.net/longshot_logan/ |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 2, 2007
Location: Northern Orygun
Posts: 4,923
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I dislike the clear coated grips. I prefer a oiled finish. I have done many 'fancy' grips on my cartridge guns, but I'm starting to go with just a plain Walnut. Stag or Ivory looks good on some revolvers.
These are stripped and then three coats of tung oil. ![]() Nice old stags on a Ruger ![]() |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 16, 2008
Location: Behind a computer
Posts: 100
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The grips on that Walker look great. I haven't tried tung oil. Does it dry slowly?
Last edited by Indian Outlaw; April 18, 2009 at 11:57 AM. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 2, 2007
Location: Northern Orygun
Posts: 4,923
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I rub it on with my fingers. After an hour I well wipe any still on the grip off with a rag. Then I give it 24hrs to dry.
If you keep adding coats, steel wool between every two coats you can fill the grain and get a very nice glass smooth, satin finish. |
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: May 31, 2007
Location: Gainesville,Ga.
Posts: 80
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Grips
Did I hear someone say Tiger Maple?
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 16, 2008
Location: Behind a computer
Posts: 100
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Another crappy picture, but it's coming along. The grips feel incredible.
![]() Last edited by Indian Outlaw; April 20, 2009 at 12:54 PM. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 16, 2008
Location: Behind a computer
Posts: 100
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K.A.T., I wanna see that tiger maple when it's done.
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/ind...c,13564.0.html |
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 2, 2000
Location: Arizona Territory
Posts: 296
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Can one of you describe the process you use from beginning to end in the refinishing process for the factory grips?
The re-done wood ones look really nice! |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 25, 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 877
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Yeah, absolutely I agree and I dislike that weird gloss red as well. It's not easy to see in such a small photo but the 1851 up top has refinished Italian grips. I've yet to do the funky 1858 below.
![]() I strip the grips, evaluate the tone, stain if needed and then buff in some True Oil with steel wool. I hit 'em with another coat a day later, wipe it off, let dry again and that's it. Cheers, Oly |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 16, 2008
Location: Behind a computer
Posts: 100
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Here's my method:
The Uberti finish is tough but comes off nicely with Citristrip Gel. You brush it on thickly with a soft bristle paint brush, let it work for an hour or two, and then brush off with a medium or stiff bristle toothbrush. I had to apply a second coat, but the finish eventually came off. I removed the remaining gel with a clean cloth. I applied Watco Danish Oil, Medium Walnut, immediately afterwards, to prevent drying and shrinking and to darken the natural color a little. The wood drank greedily of the oil. Starting with the second coat, I let the grips sit for a day or two before applying the next coat. I applied four thick coats before the wood started rejecting it. When the wood had finally had enough, I wiped off the excess and, when dry, buffed ultra lightly with 0000 steel wool, following the grain. Grips done. Addendum: I just read that Watco Danish Oil requires a topcoat of wax in order to repel water. So I'll add that tonight. ![]() Last edited by Indian Outlaw; April 20, 2009 at 07:19 PM. |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 2, 2007
Location: Northern Orygun
Posts: 4,923
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I do mine similar to Indian Outlaw. Stripping is the biggest part of the job. After I strip, I dry the wood over night. Then very lightly sand with 400 grit. If I have any dents I raise them with a steam iron and a wet cloth. I use Tung oil as a finish, no stain. Two or three coats, 24hrs apart, looks good, you can keep adding coats, steel wooling every two or three coats and it well fill the grain. You end up with a glass smooth satin finish that you can buff out to get some shine but not a lot. The tung oil well harden the wood, making it more dent resistant, plus it touches up very easy.
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 16, 2008
Location: Behind a computer
Posts: 100
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Another option, after stripping, is Minwax Oil-Based Wipe-On Poly. The guy at Outlaw Grips (www.outlawgrips.com) applies a Minwax finish that feels incredible.
(I am not connected with Outlaw Grips.) ![]() Last edited by Indian Outlaw; April 20, 2009 at 12:32 PM. |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 2, 2009
Location: Orlando
Posts: 936
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I wonder why it is that it seems that everyone who gets an Uberti revolver ends up with the glossy orange colored grips but when you look at Uberti's website they show something else?
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 8, 2006
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 2,772
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I have 6 Uberti cap & ball revolvers. None have 'orange' colored grips.
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#18 |
Member
Join Date: March 27, 2009
Posts: 88
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None of my Ubertis are orange, either, but they do use a red-tinted finish. You can see in the upper Remington where there's a little overspray on the grip escutcheon.
My Remington is a little 'red', but the rest of mine look (figuring notwithstanding) pretty much like those pictures. |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 2, 2009
Location: Orlando
Posts: 936
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Some owners describe it as glossy "red", others glossy "orange", still others "orange-red". I've heard that the glossy red-orange was actually typical of original colt BP firearms.
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 16, 2008
Location: Behind a computer
Posts: 100
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I used a different stripper once that removed the stock Uberti finish in layers. Below the hard clearcoat exterior was a layer of reddish "paint," for lack of a better word. Below the red paint was the wood.
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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 2, 2007
Location: Northern Orygun
Posts: 4,923
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The clear coat that Uberti uses is pretty tough stuff. Takes two or more coats of stripper to remove. I don't think I have a Uberti with out a run in the clear coat.
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