1911 trigger

slickab · October 19, 2008, 09:14 PM

I have a PT1911 I am working on. Bottom line is a 5.5 to 6lb. trigger with creep. I need to know if I need to replace parts or take it to a local smith and ask about a trigger job. I dont know if I am dealing with any MIM parts but if so I hear they are hard on surface and softer under surface. Dont want work performed that may require filing or stoning on MIM parts. Accuracy is better than stock and approaching the Kimber. Had first 3 FTE's last week approx. 130 rounds after cleaning, with Monarch 230 fmj. I read poor mans trigger job but illustrations and explanations were not clear enough for me to undertake. Working on it. Lil help please

ogree · October 19, 2008, 10:40 PM

Find a reputable smith that is known for 1911 work and have him do it.
When I do a trigger job, I normally install a new Wilson sear & a clark sear spring right off the bat. Saves the hassle for me dealing with soft sears that are often found in 1911's.

WESHOOT2 · October 20, 2008, 01:37 PM

You might also try one of Nowlin's 'drop-in' kits.
www.brownells.com

(I have one of the older TiN kits that was then NP3'd with over 7K through it.)

There are many potential difficulties: frame not to 'print; parts not to 'print; other.....

keys85 · October 20, 2008, 06:14 PM

Probably really depends on how much you want to spend. I think most of us on here are tinkerers and amateur gunsmiths (if not professional) so the idea of bringing a gun to a smith shouldn't be the first answer. Only do that after you screwed it up and need it fixed. Might cost more that way, but you learn something from it. And you might just luck out and get the gun the way you want it the first time (cheaper) than taking it to a smith.

I would suggest you start by replacing the sear with a drop in match grade "polished" item. Then a new sear spring, match hammer, lightweight trigger, strut, disconnector, mainsrping 19# perhaps....eh just keep putting in new stuff until it works right.

Casimer · October 20, 2008, 06:57 PM

what are you trying to accomplish - i.e. how many pounds pull weight?

Have you tried boosting the hammer to reduce the creep?

Here's a good article that addresses the process of setting-up a trigger

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Gun...?p=0&t=1&i=349

For do-it-yourself jobs, I've had a lot of luck w/ the C&S drop-in kits - but they're no cheap.

Harry Bonar · October 20, 2008, 08:23 PM

Sir;
In my experience there are no "drop in" parts for 1911s.
Harry B.

drail · October 22, 2008, 08:40 AM

"In my experience there are no drop in parts for 1911s." Exactly correct!!

October 19, 2008, 09:14 PM	#1
slickab Member Join Date: March 17, 2007 Location: Alabama Posts: 74	1911 trigger I have a PT1911 I am working on. Bottom line is a 5.5 to 6lb. trigger with creep. I need to know if I need to replace parts or take it to a local smith and ask about a trigger job. I dont know if I am dealing with any MIM parts but if so I hear they are hard on surface and softer under surface. Dont want work performed that may require filing or stoning on MIM parts. Accuracy is better than stock and approaching the Kimber. Had first 3 FTE's last week approx. 130 rounds after cleaning, with Monarch 230 fmj. I read poor mans trigger job but illustrations and explanations were not clear enough for me to undertake. Working on it. Lil help please

October 20, 2008, 01:37 PM	#3
WESHOOT2 Senior Member Join Date: February 20, 1999 Location: home on the range; Vermont (Caspian country) Posts: 14,324	doin' it You might also try one of Nowlin's 'drop-in' kits. www.brownells.com (I have one of the older TiN kits that was then NP3'd with over 7K through it.) There are many potential difficulties: frame not to 'print; parts not to 'print; other.....

October 20, 2008, 08:23 PM	#6
Harry Bonar Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2004 Location: In the Vincent, Ohio general area. Posts: 1,804	1911 Sir; In my experience there are no "drop in" parts for 1911s. Harry B.

October 19, 2008, 10:40 PM	#2
ogree Senior Member Join Date: January 18, 2005 Location: Idaho Posts: 151	Find a reputable smith that is known for 1911 work and have him do it. When I do a trigger job, I normally install a new Wilson sear & a clark sear spring right off the bat. Saves the hassle for me dealing with soft sears that are often found in 1911's.

October 20, 2008, 06:14 PM	#4
keys85 Junior member Join Date: September 21, 2008 Posts: 199	Probably really depends on how much you want to spend. I think most of us on here are tinkerers and amateur gunsmiths (if not professional) so the idea of bringing a gun to a smith shouldn't be the first answer. Only do that after you screwed it up and need it fixed. Might cost more that way, but you learn something from it. And you might just luck out and get the gun the way you want it the first time (cheaper) than taking it to a smith. I would suggest you start by replacing the sear with a drop in match grade "polished" item. Then a new sear spring, match hammer, lightweight trigger, strut, disconnector, mainsrping 19# perhaps....eh just keep putting in new stuff until it works right.

October 20, 2008, 06:57 PM	#5
Casimer Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2007 Location: Pennsylvania, USA Posts: 1,918	what are you trying to accomplish - i.e. how many pounds pull weight? Have you tried boosting the hammer to reduce the creep? Here's a good article that addresses the process of setting-up a trigger http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Gun...?p=0&t=1&i=349 For do-it-yourself jobs, I've had a lot of luck w/ the C&S drop-in kits - but they're no cheap.

October 22, 2008, 08:40 AM	#7
drail Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2008 Posts: 3,150	"In my experience there are no drop in parts for 1911s." Exactly correct!!