Advice on starting reloading .357mag

[khuengo]

Hello guys, I am starting the process of reloading for my Ruger Security Six .357mag. Let me babble a bit about myself so that you could give me some exact advice for me. Please bear in mind that I am in very tight budget yet I want to reload to max economically and efficient of quality of ammo.

I am planning to reload 38Spec and .357mag only for now. Later might be 7.62x39 and 9mm Luger.

I already bought Lee Pro 100 reloading kit for 38spec and 357mag and Lee's Modern Reloading Second Edition manual.

I keep all used brass (200 of 38Spec and 300 of .357mag) from my shooting. I guess for now I do not need to buy more brass.

I think I would be able to set up the reloading system and perhaps for the beginning, I will do single stage first.

My questions are:

1. How do you know if the used case is reloadable except for reading the infor on the case box (sometime it is not there)

2. I shoot Ruger Security Six revolver and I could safely keep all used cases from sand and dirt, do I need to clean cases before reloading?

3. How do I clean cases, especially the inside ? I do not have a tumbler and not plan to buy (because I am in very tight budget).

4. How many times could I reload the case provided that I check all cases and see no crack, dent etc....?

Here are some more specific questions:

5. Bullets: Should I start with lead bullets (cheaper) or brass jacketed bullets? Is there any different in using lead bullets and brass jacketed bullets in loading, not shooting?

6. Bullets: where could I buy cheap yet good lead bullets and how much they cost in 500 counts or 1000 counts?

7. Can bullets for 38spec be used interchangable for .357mag?

8. Primer: What kind of primer I should buy? Lee claimed that their system works well with CCI and Winchester.

9. Primer: again, where could I buy cheap yet good primer? and how much they cost in 1000 counts?

10. Powder: What kind of safe and cheap yet good powder should I buy? And how much they cost in 1 lb?

11. Powder: again, where could I buy powder in 1 lb?

I checked prices for all above components on midwayusa.com and cheaperthandirt.com, however, they have some many branches and types for bullets, primer and powder. I do not know what to choose from. Please advice.

12. Midwayusa and cheaperthandirt charged hazard Material fee (20 bucks for each order). Is there any good reliable site that does not charge that fee but still sell at the same price?

Thanks a lot guys. This is great forum for me.

[gb_in_ga]

1. How do you know if the used case is reloadable except for reading the infor on the case box

Look inside of the case, and count the number of flash holes. If there are 2 holes, it is berdan primed, not reloadable (easily, anyway). Is the case aluminium? If so, it is CCI and is not reloadable. If the case is brass or nickel and has 1 flash hole, it should be reloadable. Most brass you encounter will be of these types.

2. I shoot Ruger Security Six revolver and I could safely keep all used cases from sand and dirt, do I need to clean cases before reloading?

I usually don't bother. A little soot doesn't hurt, as long as you aren't trying for super-match accuracy or just want pretty ammo.

4. How many times could I reload the case provided that I check all cases and see no crack, dent etc....?

Brass tends to last longer than nickel, and the strength of the load has a lot to do with it, as does how much you bell the case mouth. For "standard pressure" .38 Spl stuff, you can expect new or once-shot brass to last 20 or more reloads. Magnum and +P loads shorten case life.

5. Bullets: Should I start with lead bullets (cheaper) or brass jacketed bullets?

Your choice.

Is there any different in using lead bullets and brass jacketed bullets in loading, not shooting?

YES. Consult your loading manual.

6. Bullets: where could I buy cheap yet good lead bullets and how much they cost in 500 counts or 1000 counts?

I order mine from Midway USA or I drive out to Villa Rica, Ga (about 30 miles from here) and buy them at Georgia Arms. I pay right at $17/500 for 158 gr LSWC at Georgia Arms.

7. Can bullets for 38spec be used interchangable for .357mag?

For the most part, yes. If you are loading hot .357 Mag with lead bullets, you will want to use gas checks.

8. Primer: What kind of primer I should buy? Lee claimed that their system works well with CCI and Winchester.

Small Pistol primers, some .357 Mag loads require Small Pistol Magnum primers. Personally, right now I'm using Winchester small pistol primers and Federal small pistol magnum primers with good results.

9. Primer: again, where could I buy cheap yet good primer? and how much they cost in 1000 counts?

You will want to fine someplace local to buy these, as shipping primers is EXPENSIVE. For prices, check out the Midway USA site.

10. Powder: What kind of safe and cheap yet good powder should I buy? And how much they cost in 1 lb?

Personal preferrence, and there's a whole lot of opinion out there pertaining to this. Right now, I'm stocking 3 powders for .38 Spl and .357 Mag: HP-38, Universal Clays, and H4227, I'm going to be getting some 2400 shortly -- I forgot to pick some up last time I was at GA. As far as prices, check out Midway USA. Also keep in mind that shipping powder is also EXPENSIVE, so you'll probably want to find someplace local to buy it.

11. Powder: again, where could I buy powder in 1 lb?

Well, you could order it online, but you'll end up paying out the nose for shipping charges. Find someplace locally if possible, otherwise you could order it from Georgia Arms or Midway USA, or several other online outfits. Personally, I drive out to Georgia Arms and buy it there, the gas costs much less than the shipping -- just like I do with primers.

12. Midwayusa and cheaperthandirt charged hazard Material fee (20 bucks for each order). Is there any good reliable site that does not charge that fee but still sell at the same price?

Not that I'm aware of. It isn't Midway, CTD, etc., that is running the price up, it is the carriers. That's why I drive out to GA and buy it right there at their storefront.

[Leftoverdj]

1. How do you know if the used case is reloadable except for reading the infor on the case box (sometime it is not there)

Look inside the case.If there is a single flash hole to the primer and the case is brass, it's reloadable.

2. I shoot Ruger Security Six revolver and I could safely keep all used cases from sand and dirt, do I need to clean cases before reloading?

No need to clean.

3. How do I clean cases, especially the inside ? I do not have a tumbler and not plan to buy (because I am in very tight budget).

If they are dirty, rinse them in soapy water and let dry.
4. How many times could I reload the case provided that I check all cases and see no crack, dent etc....?

Just short of forever for .38 Specials
Here are some more specific questions:

5. Bullets: Should I start with lead bullets (cheaper) or brass jacketed bullets? Is there any different in using lead bullets and brass jacketed bullets in loading, not shooting?

Lead for .38 Specials and the lighter .357 loads. Only difference in loading is that you will have to flare the cases

6. Bullets: where could I buy cheap yet good lead bullets and how much they cost in 500 counts or 1000 counts?

Check your local gun stores. Gun shows are another good source. Should be around $20-25 per 500

7. Can bullets for 38spec be used interchangable for .357mag?

Yes, although I would not use plain based lead for hot .357.Get .358 or .359 diameter

8. Primer: What kind of primer I should buy? Lee claimed that their system works well with CCI and Winchester.

I much prefer Winchester. They are a bit easier to ignite.

9. Primer: again, where could I buy cheap yet good primer? and how much they cost in 1000 counts?

Gun show. Should be about $16 a thousand.

10. Powder: What kind of safe and cheap yet good powder should I buy? And how much they cost in 1 lb?

Unique, Universal, or AA-5 at about $20 for a pound can. Those powders will load up to mid level .357. You can get nearly twice as many shots to the pound with Bullseye, Red Dot, 700X, or 231, but those are limited to light target loads.
11. Powder: again, where could I buy powder in 1 lb?

Local gun store to avoid shipping and HAZMAT

I checked prices for all above components on midwayusa.com and cheaperthandirt.com, however, they have some many branches and types for bullets, primer and powder. I do not know what to choose from. Please advice.

12. Midwayusa and cheaperthandirt charged hazard Material fee (20 bucks for each order). Is there any good reliable site that does not charge that fee but still sell at the same price? No. HAZMAT is a federal fee. A few places will absorb the HAZMAT charge on very large orders, but none on single cans.

[tapehoser]

My best accuracy comes from using H110 for .357 Mag. I shoot a Taurus Model 65.

[azredhawk44]

Buying powders and primers locally is usually cheaper than by mail since hazmat and shipping eclipses any sales tax.

A good powder to use for 38special and 357magnum is Unique. Another is Hodgdon Titegroup. I personally prefer titegroup, but I shoot from a 3" barrel (sp101). Longer barrels (4-6") burn Unique better. 6-8" barrels do very well with Winchester 296 or Hodgdon H110.

I always use jacketed bullets when shooting 38special from a 357 magnum gun. Conversely, for my really hot loads, I use hard-cast lead 158gr semiwadcutters for 357magnum. For medium to low end plinking loads, I use whatever I've got handy for 357. Lead, jacketed, whatever.

Honestly, if you've got a lee classic cast and dies, all you minimally need is the lee dipper system, a pound of unique or other suitable powder, a powder funnel, a box of primers and a box of bullets.

You might need some case lube if your sizing die isn't a carbide die. Check your die instructions for details.

[Mr_Magoo]

Quick tip:

My .357 brass is brass
My .38 spl brass is nickel

That way, even when coffee deprived I can tell the difference between the 2. 0.010" COL difference is not always easy to see in a "need it RIGHT NOW!" situation . . .

[mjc]

My $.02. If you got the Lee loading kit, i think they recomend CCI primers( for hand primer), Winchester are OK, Federal ARE NOT!

You should have gotten carbide dies, if not send them to Lee and trade them in, they'll give you (some ) credit, and you won't have to lube cases.

You didn't say where you live, but here in Idaho wal-mart sells componants, also there are Sportsmans Warehouses, etc. for powder, primers and such. Buy 1 pound of Unique, titegroup, or bullseye, it'll last for a long time!

Also, clean gun between 38's and 357's, or shoot 357's first to avoid sticking cases in chambers.

[khuengo]

thank you guys for all answers. Great stuff. I feel more confident now on reloading.

[khuengo]

I found this site for cast bullet.
http://www.northeastbullet.com/shop.htm
They have 38 (158 gr) SWC dia 0.358 $37 for 1000 counts. But they have a couple of options. Please help me choose one. I load 38spc and .357mag.
Should I go with hard cast or soft cast?
What about bullet lubricant options? 1 or 2 or 3?
Thanks a lot, guys.

Bullet Cast Type
Hard cast - (19) Brinell Hardness Number
Soft cast - (12) Brinell Hardness Number

Bullet Lubricant Options
1. Moly coated with grease groove lube
2. Grease groove lube with NO MOLY
3. Not lubed, not sized

[Leftoverdj]

Soft cast for anything but full magnum loads. No moly. Sized and lubed if they offer .358 or .359. If you must, you can buy the unsized, unlubed. Size them with a $12 Lee pushthough in .358 and lube with the Liquid Alox that comes with the die.