beretta won't blue

skacy · February 3, 2006, 01:15 PM

I have never blued a gun before but I thought it coulden't be very difficult. I applied birchwood casey blue and rust remover, let it sit for two minutes, then removed it with steel wool. Then I cleaned the area with dishwashing liquid, rinsed with water, and then applied birchwood casey perma blue. Nothing happened, what am I doing wrong?

James K · February 3, 2006, 01:37 PM

IMHO, three mistakes.

First, you are trying to use cold blue for a major reblue job. It simply does not work. Those who have used it like a rust blue, with boiling, carding, and more bluing, say it turns out reasonably well, but still is not as durable as a regular hot tank blue or a real rust blue.

Your second mistake, again IMO, was in using B-C blue. I have found it about worthless. I like G96 paste blue, but Brownell's Oxpho-Blue is excellent. 44-40 is, IMO, not as good as either of the others, but better than B-C.

Third, you didn't do any metal preparation. That is done automatically if you polish off the blue, but you used blue remover so you have to polish the surface shiny to allow the blue to take. You don't need a wheel; you can use fine grit (600 or higher) emery paper (available at auto stores) or the polishing tips of a Dremel tool. It depends on the appearance you want.

Jim

Dfariswheel · February 3, 2006, 09:18 PM

I'm assuming you don't have a pistol with an aluminum frame?

If it's aluminum NO chemical bluing will work.
The frame would have to be either anodized or coated with one of the new polymer coatings.

badshot9mm · February 3, 2006, 10:30 PM

what's "blue" ? how is it done and does it cost much?

my cousin's gun is striiped of its paint and the rust is showing...

could "blueing" it do any good???

thanks.

skacy · February 4, 2006, 07:34 PM

what can I use to remove the layer of blue (I know its not really blue but it looks like blue) from my beretta's alluminum frame, is there a chemical that will strip it cleanly?

mete · February 4, 2006, 09:08 PM

Aluminum is 'anodized' which is an electrolytically applied thick oxide coating which is then sealed with waxes.The waxes can be dyed for color. Removal and reanodizing should only be done by platers with experience working with guns.

guntotin_fool · February 6, 2006, 05:14 AM

The beretta sometimes use a proprietary finish that may be a form of anodizing. i do know that commercial frames were finished with what they called bruniton finish, and they were nearly as hard as type 111 anodising.

as far as the cold blue, the stuff from brownells is the only stuff worth using. and it will come close on small parts to a real blueing job if you get the parts warm to the touch. this seems to make the steel more receptive to the coloring process. I heat the oven to 250 and let it shut off then add the parts on a junk cookie sheet. after the parts get warm I use a clean q tip to add the stuff to the warm metal. if you get the parts really clean and really warm, the blue will stick pretty darn well.

February 3, 2006, 01:15 PM	#1
skacy Member Join Date: February 3, 2006 Posts: 20	beretta won't blue I have never blued a gun before but I thought it coulden't be very difficult. I applied birchwood casey blue and rust remover, let it sit for two minutes, then removed it with steel wool. Then I cleaned the area with dishwashing liquid, rinsed with water, and then applied birchwood casey perma blue. Nothing happened, what am I doing wrong?

February 3, 2006, 10:30 PM	#4
badshot9mm Junior Member Join Date: January 31, 2006 Posts: 13	just asking... what's "blue" ? how is it done and does it cost much? my cousin's gun is striiped of its paint and the rust is showing... could "blueing" it do any good??? thanks.

February 3, 2006, 01:37 PM	#2
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	IMHO, three mistakes. First, you are trying to use cold blue for a major reblue job. It simply does not work. Those who have used it like a rust blue, with boiling, carding, and more bluing, say it turns out reasonably well, but still is not as durable as a regular hot tank blue or a real rust blue. Your second mistake, again IMO, was in using B-C blue. I have found it about worthless. I like G96 paste blue, but Brownell's Oxpho-Blue is excellent. 44-40 is, IMO, not as good as either of the others, but better than B-C. Third, you didn't do any metal preparation. That is done automatically if you polish off the blue, but you used blue remover so you have to polish the surface shiny to allow the blue to take. You don't need a wheel; you can use fine grit (600 or higher) emery paper (available at auto stores) or the polishing tips of a Dremel tool. It depends on the appearance you want. Jim

February 3, 2006, 09:18 PM	#3
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,561	I'm assuming you don't have a pistol with an aluminum frame? If it's aluminum NO chemical bluing will work. The frame would have to be either anodized or coated with one of the new polymer coatings.

February 4, 2006, 07:34 PM	#5
skacy Member Join Date: February 3, 2006 Posts: 20	what can I use to remove the layer of blue (I know its not really blue but it looks like blue) from my beretta's alluminum frame, is there a chemical that will strip it cleanly?

February 4, 2006, 09:08 PM	#6
mete Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2004 Location: NY State Posts: 6,575	Aluminum is 'anodized' which is an electrolytically applied thick oxide coating which is then sealed with waxes.The waxes can be dyed for color. Removal and reanodizing should only be done by platers with experience working with guns.

February 6, 2006, 05:14 AM	#7
guntotin_fool Senior Member Join Date: November 19, 2004 Posts: 1,446	The beretta sometimes use a proprietary finish that may be a form of anodizing. i do know that commercial frames were finished with what they called bruniton finish, and they were nearly as hard as type 111 anodising. as far as the cold blue, the stuff from brownells is the only stuff worth using. and it will come close on small parts to a real blueing job if you get the parts warm to the touch. this seems to make the steel more receptive to the coloring process. I heat the oven to 250 and let it shut off then add the parts on a junk cookie sheet. after the parts get warm I use a clean q tip to add the stuff to the warm metal. if you get the parts really clean and really warm, the blue will stick pretty darn well.