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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 18, 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,320
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Remington Model 514 Restoration (Picture Heavy)
As some of you know, I own a Remington Model 514 Bolt Action Single Shot .22 Rifle. Today, I sent the barreled action, trigger guard, and screws to be reblued for $100-125 by a local gunsmith( who I showed the bolt to, he was very impressed at my knowledge and work), and due to delays and otherwise, it probably will be late September by the time i get it back, although it could be done sooner. For now, it has given me time to polish up the bolt, and I think I've did a pretty good job. I plan to work on it a little more later on, as you can see, there are still remnants from the pitting that previously engulfed the bolt handle and knob. There was also some gunk on the bolt body and a lot of buildup on the firing pin and spring.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The bolt Handle is a polar opposite of what it used to be. It was completely covered in rust and pitting. The first thing I did was took a Dremel to the handle and knob (and only them) and buffed out the rust. Next, I disasembled the bolt and soaked the parts in Hoppe's #9. After that, I wiped them off, oiled them, rinsed them, and I put polishing compound on the bolt body and used 100, then 150, and finally 400 grit sandpaper to polish it. I re-oiled the parts, did some finishing touches and reassembled the bolt. I will do some more polishing tomorrow, maybe. Next, thing I plan to do is to get a stock refinishing kit and put about 4-5 coats of Tru Oil on the stock. Which, at the moment, looks like this. ![]() I will continue posting updates on the status of the gun when I can. Any help and advice is appreciated. Thank you. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 27, 2008
Posts: 558
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My advice would be to take your time on the stock.
I'm speaking from experience in doing a hurry up job on one of mine in years past. Make sure that you have cleaned it well, ironed all dents, and follow the instructions with light coats. I did one that I just slapped the Tru-Oil on. Had to re-do it (after telling friends that it came that way!). I'd also be tempted to pick up some ultra fine wet-dry paper and clean up the bolt - scratches in pic one - and brighten it a bit. The bolts were never polished with 1200 grit or anything, but they were smooth. The bolt handles showed the machine marks, but a little brightening will help the new blueing stand out. Just my .02 and you did ask ![]() Nice job so far, will watch for the final product in a few months. JT |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 18, 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,320
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Will 400 grit sandpaper work? I don't have any 1200, I did use some Metal Glow w/ 400 grit sandpaper on it but I don't really think it helped. Thanks for your advice.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 18, 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,320
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 18, 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,320
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First step of the stock refinishing is done. Used 100 grit, then 150 grit, then 400 grit to smooth and polish. Got the original finish off and all the nicks and spots off. The original finish was linseed oil so it was rather hard to get it all of it out, and I didnt, so I'm hoping the Tru-Oil covers up the remaining spots that seeped down into it, but the wood looks beautiful. I'm pretty sure it's walnut. Anyway. Will post pictures when I put the desired coats of Tru-Oil on it. Most likely 4-5 coats. Here are some before and after pictures of the stock.
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: March 1, 2008
Location: Central California, Gilroy specifically
Posts: 37
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Rem. Mod 514
I have a Mod. 514 that was purchased new by my father in 1956 or 1957. It came with a military type leather sling. It is the finish on the stock that is something special. The wood had dark striping running across the stock. The finish is hard almost plastic like clear gloss. I will try and send pictures tomorrow. Years ago I posted pictures on some forum and asked if anybody knew why this rifle had the sling and special finish, but got no replies. There is a # under the barrel in front of the forend, as I recall it was 1958,I'll check tomorrow.
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 18, 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,320
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Are you sure it was new? I don't think Remington ever used a tiger stripe finish type but I have found pictures of what you're talking about.
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: March 1, 2008
Location: Central California, Gilroy specifically
Posts: 37
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Rem 514
Mosin-Marauder: I am pretty sure it was new. We were stationed in Kobe Japan on a military base. My dad ordered the rifle, I don't know if he ordered it directly, or through the PX. I took pictures, but am unable to upload them. I have a message into the web administrator. As soon as I am able I'll send the pictures. The rifle has been stored for a number of years covered in LPS 3. I think the LPS 3 damaged the hard clear finish, it did not effect the striping at all. The military type leather sling is in good condition. I hope I can get the pictures uploaded, then perhaps you or someone else can explain the finish and the sling.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 30, 2009
Location: Northern AZ
Posts: 7,172
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Mosin, if you really want to do a bang up job, Google "Micro Mesh" on your computer. Micro Mesh has grit grades all the way up to 12000; When I worked for the airlines, we would use successive grades of MM cloth starting with 2400 to 8000 to polish the passenger windows on the aircraft.
I still use it to polish gun parts to the desired finish. You can literally polish a piece of steel to a total mirror finish if you want. Most bolts that were originally "in the white" I polish to around MM grade 2400 and that usually leaves a finish close to factory original. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 2, 2011
Location: West Coast of Michigan
Posts: 136
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Years ago in the 50's/60's/70's, a popular finish used on firearms was a product called LinSpeed Oil. You could buy it at any gun shop in a small glass jar, apply very light coats and let dry (took time), and apply again many times. It created a hard glossy type finish, what you described sounds like a LinSpeed finish. A lot of effort to remove it. I don't even know if that product is still on the market.
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 30, 2009
Location: Northern AZ
Posts: 7,172
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Yes, LinSpeed was a pretty good finish in that you could apply as much or as little as you like and attain a dull military type oil finish all the the way to a high gloss finish and anything in between. It's basically the same as Tru-Oil; You can get the same results with it.
Another old line product is Tru-Oil water base walnut stain; It is highly effective for staining wood, and very easy to use. You just rub some on with cotton balls until you get the desired color. I think you can get it at Walmart, along with the Tru-Oil. Mosin, be sure to check out the Micro Mesh abrasive cloth. You can use it many times over with proper care. |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 18, 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,320
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gyvel, these?
http://www.stringsbymail.com/store/i...aklcqr66d35g70 Also, I just got done with the first coat of Tru-Oil. I think it looks pretty good. I'm going to apply 1 more coat tomorrow after it dries and sand it down with 400 grit the rest of the way. I think it looks pretty good. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#13 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 30, 2009
Location: Northern AZ
Posts: 7,172
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Quote:
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#14 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 18, 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,320
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Quote:
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 2, 2011
Location: West Coast of Michigan
Posts: 136
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That stock looks good with the color you have on it, a bit of satin finish would set it off well. my first rifle was used Mod-514, I still have it. Paid around $15 for it when I was 14 years old, can't imagine how many shells I've fired through it over the years. Now i'm 51 and it has been put away for quite awhile now, other guns to shoot instead.
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#16 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 30, 2009
Location: Northern AZ
Posts: 7,172
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Quote:
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 30, 2009
Location: Northern AZ
Posts: 7,172
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BTW: Another product you can get for wood at either Walmart of Home Depot is "Deft" spray coating; It's available in either gloss or satin. Satin is best if you don't want something that's shiny and reflective. It can also be sanded down or steel wooled between coats for a really nice even finish.
Personally, I prefer the satin finish. |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 18, 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,320
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I think I might just add one more coat of Tru-Oil and continue polishing the bolt. The original stock was very dark and I wanted it to look about half as dark as it was previously. So I think another coat should accomplish that. Thanks for your help, gyvel. I plan to continue posing updates when more progress is made. I'm really hoping the gunsmith doesn't take as long as he originally said for rebluing. I don't know if I can wait til Mid September!
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#19 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 30, 2009
Location: Northern AZ
Posts: 7,172
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Quote:
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 18, 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 2,320
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I get impatient. Sometimes. Alot.
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#21 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 30, 2009
Location: Northern AZ
Posts: 7,172
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Quote:
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 13, 2006
Location: Washington state
Posts: 15,249
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Looks good! I rebuilt a Remington 512 that has a beautiful fiddleback walnut stock on it. It turned out very nice, only now I can't bring myself to part with it!
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Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services |
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