S & W main spring ???

tator · September 23, 2002, 12:34 PM

How do you tell the difference better main springs? ie factory, wolff or other? Or how are they different? I have both a 625 and a 686+ I'm trying to identify the spring and I don't know the how.

Supposedly, I had a reduced power spring in the 625 with the stock one included however when I changed them the DA tension was reduced. This spring had a raised center portion to it. While the other was flat with a different bend radius to it.

Dfariswheel · September 23, 2002, 06:05 PM

What help I can give, is factory springs are flat, and have a very black finish. All of my S&W guns are stainless, and all have an "S" stamped near the bottom.

Jim Watson · September 23, 2002, 06:15 PM

The "raised center portion" is probably the Wolff Power Rib spring. They make them in both full strength and reduced power versions. The S&W mainspring is flat in crossection.

tator · September 24, 2002, 07:46 AM

Ok so it seems when I bought my 625 the orginal owner put the orginal spring back in, and left the wolff spring in the case.

Has anyone used the Jerry Miculek spring kit?

Jim Watson · September 24, 2002, 08:25 AM

The previous owner may have had misfires with the R.P. mainspring and put the standard back in for reliability. I know I did in a M25-2. The clips add another pair of contact surfaces and some springiness to the rounds in the chambers. It takes a full-force hammer fall for reliable ignition, in my gun at least.

The only way to know what your guns and your ammo will do is to testfire it with both springs. Handload Federal primers, they are the most sensitive.

I haven't tried the Miculeck springs. They are specified for Federal primers; must be very light.

tator · September 24, 2002, 12:29 PM

Since I've already been getting light hits from short pulling the trigger, I've went to 45 +P Nickle Plated casings with Federal primers. I was also pulling on the action due to it being heavier then the rest of my revolvers. Installing this spring may actually resolve both issues. I have also purchased a C&S extended firing pin to help, however it was TOO extended and caused a drag marks across my primers and bound up the rotation

So the next step to test the orginal firing pin with the new spring.

September 23, 2002, 12:34 PM	#1
tator Member Join Date: February 12, 2001 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 81	S & W main spring ??? How do you tell the difference better main springs? ie factory, wolff or other? Or how are they different? I have both a 625 and a 686+ I'm trying to identify the spring and I don't know the how. Supposedly, I had a reduced power spring in the 625 with the stock one included however when I changed them the DA tension was reduced. This spring had a raised center portion to it. While the other was flat with a different bend radius to it.

September 23, 2002, 06:05 PM	#2
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,479	What help I can give, is factory springs are flat, and have a very black finish. All of my S&W guns are stainless, and all have an "S" stamped near the bottom.

September 23, 2002, 06:15 PM	#3
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,602	The "raised center portion" is probably the Wolff Power Rib spring. They make them in both full strength and reduced power versions. The S&W mainspring is flat in crossection.

September 24, 2002, 07:46 AM	#4
tator Member Join Date: February 12, 2001 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 81	Ok so it seems when I bought my 625 the orginal owner put the orginal spring back in, and left the wolff spring in the case. Has anyone used the Jerry Miculek spring kit?

September 24, 2002, 08:25 AM	#5
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,602	The previous owner may have had misfires with the R.P. mainspring and put the standard back in for reliability. I know I did in a M25-2. The clips add another pair of contact surfaces and some springiness to the rounds in the chambers. It takes a full-force hammer fall for reliable ignition, in my gun at least. The only way to know what your guns and your ammo will do is to testfire it with both springs. Handload Federal primers, they are the most sensitive. I haven't tried the Miculeck springs. They are specified for Federal primers; must be very light.

September 24, 2002, 12:29 PM	#6
tator Member Join Date: February 12, 2001 Location: Minneapolis, MN Posts: 81	Since I've already been getting light hits from short pulling the trigger, I've went to 45 +P Nickle Plated casings with Federal primers. I was also pulling on the action due to it being heavier then the rest of my revolvers. Installing this spring may actually resolve both issues. I have also purchased a C&S extended firing pin to help, however it was TOO extended and caused a drag marks across my primers and bound up the rotation So the next step to test the orginal firing pin with the new spring.