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308Gunner
March 12, 2011, 12:35 PM
Directed at anyone who's used DuraCoat before. I'm looking to refinish a SIG P220 slide and the barrel/action on a Yugo M24 mauser. This is my first undertaking at refinishing.

Now, I've read in some places that the old finish has to be taken off, and others that the finish can just go right over the old with a little roughing up from some sand paper. Anyone have suggestions on the best way to go about it?

guncrank
March 12, 2011, 02:03 PM
Degrease and blast with 100Grit.
Degrade again
Spray with finish sprayer.
CEW

lonstar45
March 16, 2011, 07:11 PM
Duracoat says you only have to clean and degrease before application, I like to lightly rough up the surface for a good bond with a oooo steel wool. Sand paper will only leave scratches that will have to be filled with the finish. Several light applications always works best. Good Luck :D

StrongSideArmsInc
March 16, 2011, 10:18 PM
I have been using Dura Coat now for 8 years and have refinished hundreds of firearms. Dura Coat advises that you do not have to take the old finish off, but in my experince the best results i have had, are when I bead blast with 80 grit Alum Oxide. Now if you are referring to metal finishes such as gun blue, parkerizing, or color case, these finishes do not effect the coat. In fact, parkerizing done prior to the coat, will bond the best.

If you do not have acess to a bead blaster, I have used 220 grit paper and sand to your hearts content. It will leave a good bitting surface for the coat. Coat should be at least 1 mil thick. The biggest down fall to Dura Coat is it has to be left alone for a month. To many times, people have screwed it up by getting impatient. Once it cures, it is tough as nails.

Second thing, is make sure you follow the mixing procdures correctly and shake the material up very well before using. I have messed up many times, because I did not spend enough time shaking the coatting.

HankC1
March 17, 2011, 06:24 PM
What kind of shelve/storage life for Dura Coat? Once opened, can it be stored?

jglenn
March 17, 2011, 07:05 PM
the issue on shelf life is the hardener. put it in the refigurator and it will last much longer.. no problems with the base portion.

triggerman770
March 17, 2011, 07:17 PM
but once its mixed you have about 8 hours to use it before it hardens enough
to the point it won't spray

hockeysew
March 19, 2011, 08:37 PM
More info needed on the SIG. If it is an older 220 with the carbon steel slide you will be best off to Parkerize it prior to DuraCoating. If it is a later model with the stainless slide then blast as mentioned above and DuraCoat it.
Park the Mauser prior to DuraCoating. Like any applied coating the devil is in the details. It will only come out as well as the prep work you put into it.
Realize also although the DuraCoat will feel nice and dry after overnight the finish will not fully cure for about 3-4 weeks. Minimize handling and any harsh solvents during that time.
I like to let the item set for a week at least before assembly.

Geezerbiker
March 20, 2011, 06:29 AM
I can't advise you on DuraCoat but I can add a bit of info on blast cleaning. I bought a soda blaster for use on motorcycle carbs and break calipers. I've found that it cleans things very will without damaging anything. I highly recommend it.

I got my blaster at Harbor Freight. You can use their soda or by it elsewhere. I got my first 6 pound bag a CostCo then later bought 50 pounds and HF...

I've found that I can just hose away the soda after I'm done blasting in the drive way and my wife says the over spray kills the moss in the front yard...

Tony