The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Skunkworks > The Smithy

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old March 12, 2011, 12:35 PM   #1
Senior Member
Join Date: March 22, 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 199
DuraCoat Finishing

Directed at anyone who's used DuraCoat before. I'm looking to refinish a SIG P220 slide and the barrel/action on a Yugo M24 mauser. This is my first undertaking at refinishing.

Now, I've read in some places that the old finish has to be taken off, and others that the finish can just go right over the old with a little roughing up from some sand paper. Anyone have suggestions on the best way to go about it?
‘‘To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them.’’

— George Mason
308Gunner is offline  
Old March 12, 2011, 02:03 PM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: July 15, 2006
Location: Fern Creek ,KY and Metro Louisville at large
Posts: 425
Degrease and blast with 100Grit.
Degrade again
Spray with finish sprayer.
CW Shooters Supply Inc
Machine Shop and Finishing Services to the trade and public
guncrank is offline  
Old March 16, 2011, 07:11 PM   #3
Join Date: March 15, 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 17
Duracoat says you only have to clean and degrease before application, I like to lightly rough up the surface for a good bond with a oooo steel wool. Sand paper will only leave scratches that will have to be filled with the finish. Several light applications always works best. Good Luck
lonstar45 is offline  
Old March 16, 2011, 10:18 PM   #4
Senior Member
Join Date: January 26, 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 238
I have been using Dura Coat now for 8 years and have refinished hundreds of firearms. Dura Coat advises that you do not have to take the old finish off, but in my experince the best results i have had, are when I bead blast with 80 grit Alum Oxide. Now if you are referring to metal finishes such as gun blue, parkerizing, or color case, these finishes do not effect the coat. In fact, parkerizing done prior to the coat, will bond the best.

If you do not have acess to a bead blaster, I have used 220 grit paper and sand to your hearts content. It will leave a good bitting surface for the coat. Coat should be at least 1 mil thick. The biggest down fall to Dura Coat is it has to be left alone for a month. To many times, people have screwed it up by getting impatient. Once it cures, it is tough as nails.

Second thing, is make sure you follow the mixing procdures correctly and shake the material up very well before using. I have messed up many times, because I did not spend enough time shaking the coatting.
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough. Without ever having felt sorry for itself. -- D.H. Lawrence
StrongSideArmsInc is offline  
Old March 17, 2011, 06:24 PM   #5
Senior Member
Join Date: April 4, 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 502
What kind of shelve/storage life for Dura Coat? Once opened, can it be stored?
HankC1 is offline  
Old March 17, 2011, 07:05 PM   #6
Join Date: May 22, 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 56
shelf life

the issue on shelf life is the hardener. put it in the refigurator and it will last much longer.. no problems with the base portion.
jglenn is offline  
Old March 17, 2011, 07:17 PM   #7
Senior Member
Join Date: August 9, 2009
Location: Metro Atlanta Area
Posts: 125
Dura coat

but once its mixed you have about 8 hours to use it before it hardens enough
to the point it won't spray
Small Arms Restoration, Inc.
Proud member of Georgia
triggerman770 is offline  
Old March 19, 2011, 08:37 PM   #8
Join Date: August 21, 2008
Posts: 91
More info needed on the SIG. If it is an older 220 with the carbon steel slide you will be best off to Parkerize it prior to DuraCoating. If it is a later model with the stainless slide then blast as mentioned above and DuraCoat it.
Park the Mauser prior to DuraCoating. Like any applied coating the devil is in the details. It will only come out as well as the prep work you put into it.
Realize also although the DuraCoat will feel nice and dry after overnight the finish will not fully cure for about 3-4 weeks. Minimize handling and any harsh solvents during that time.
I like to let the item set for a week at least before assembly.
hockeysew is offline  
Old March 20, 2011, 06:29 AM   #9
Senior Member
Join Date: March 20, 2011
Location: Willamina, OR
Posts: 929
I can't advise you on DuraCoat but I can add a bit of info on blast cleaning. I bought a soda blaster for use on motorcycle carbs and break calipers. I've found that it cleans things very will without damaging anything. I highly recommend it.

I got my blaster at Harbor Freight. You can use their soda or by it elsewhere. I got my first 6 pound bag a CostCo then later bought 50 pounds and HF...

I've found that I can just hose away the soda after I'm done blasting in the drive way and my wife says the over spray kills the moss in the front yard...

Geezerbiker is offline  

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:42 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2018 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent:
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.05776 seconds with 7 queries