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Old February 18, 2001, 06:09 PM   #1
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Join Date: February 18, 2001
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I know I have seen this information before somewhere on the web, but now I can't find it.

The gun is a Rem 700 with synthetic stock.
How tight should each screw be and what is the sequence I should use in tightening them?

Also, is the factory rem synthetic stock strong enough that I could float the barrel? It touches now and I was wondering if I can take the high spot out of the stock or if that would mess things up.

Thanks in advance,
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Old February 18, 2001, 06:51 PM   #2
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Welcome C-Hawk, you might try a search as it really works on this site. Here is one thread on the subject.

Check 6
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Old February 19, 2001, 12:50 PM   #3
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Doesn't sound to me as if you have one of the H-S Precision stocks, but rather the lightweight synthetic stock that comes on the sporterweight Rems. The torque specs (65 in/lbs) for the H-S stocks don't apply to your rifle, just handtighten good and snug. I doubt if your stock is rigid enough to support your removing material for freefloating the barrel.
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Old February 19, 2001, 12:52 PM   #4
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I think it's 45 lbs for the non-HS Precision stocks. Use a click type torque wrench. The T-handle types are what the Remington Factory provides in its Armourer's Kit.
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Old February 20, 2001, 07:30 AM   #5
Hot Core
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Hey C-Hawk, Here is what I do:

1. Place the barreled action back in the stock and then set the recoil pad on the floor so the muzzle is pointing straight up. (This ensures that the recoil lug is setting properly against the mortise.)

2. Start all the screws into their proper locations, but leave them loose.

3. With the recoil pad still on the floor, go to the screw closest to the muzzle and tighten it. I like this screw "tight", but not Gorilla Armed. Depending on your strength, use only your thumb and first two or three fingers to grip the screwdriver.

4. Go to the screw closest to the recoil pad and screw it in so it is "snug", but not as tight as the front screw. Again, depending on your strength, perhaps you only want to use your thumb and one finger to hold the screwdriver.

5. If your particular rifle has a third screw between the other two, only tighten it enough to keep it from falling out. DO NOT tighten the third screw down, or you will put the action in a bind.

Now, after you shoot the rifle, if it is shooting the way you like it, make some small "Witness Marks" on each screw so the next time you have it apart, you can get them back to these exact same spots. You can either make a tiny scratch on them or use a tiny drop of paint. Some folks get by with a little touch of a Ladies fingernail polish, but it can be pretty fragile stuff.

Some rifles may require a bit of trail-and-error on "how tight" to tighten the front and rear screws. But, do not allow the screwdriver to ride-up in the slot which will bugger up your screws.

Newer Remingtons use Hex Headed bolts. With these, put the "short end" of the L-shaped hex wrench in the bolt on the front screw (closest to the muzzle) and tighten using your thumb and one finger. When you feel the hex wrench begin to flex, it is tight enough.

On the rear bolt, put the "long end" of the hex wrench into the bolt and "snug" down with your thumb and one finger. Do not tighten this one enough to "twist" the long shaft that is in the bolt.

And again, if there is a 3rd screw (or bolt), tighten it just enough to keep it from falling out.

That is what I do and it works just fine.

Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core
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Old February 20, 2001, 04:58 PM   #6
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Thanks all,

I appreciate all the info on what to do with the action screws. I think I now have it under control.

What should I do with regard to floating the barrel? It is the regular remington synthetic stock, not the H-S Precision one.

If it isn't rigid enough, does that mean it won't shoot well, or just that it will be flimsy to handle.

I checked the search function and found a bunch of good stuff, just wasn't exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks again,
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Old February 20, 2001, 05:46 PM   #7
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C Hawk: I free floated two of my Rem 700's last summer. I don't see any reason why they wouldn't be strong enough to free float the barrel on a standard stock, but I also glass bedded the recoil lugs to insure no movement. It's easy with a kit from Brownells. The factory lug recess is too large and leaves room for movement.

I thought it was necessary because I use a bipod now and then, and this doesn't work well with the front stock pressure on the barrel, as the factory does. Flexing the bipod changes the pressure.

Bedding the lug and free floating the barrel solved the problem for me. Can't tell much difference in accuracy.
Good Shooting, CoyDog
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Old February 20, 2001, 11:26 PM   #8
Hot Core
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You never know!

Hey C-Hawk, I intentionally avoided the "floating vs. non-floating" question simply because (I believe) it could go either way. Might help, or the accuracy might go all to pieces.

One thing for sure though, if you decide to remove the front pressure point and it does not work well for you, you can always put it back.

As an alternative, try "shimming" the entire action up in the stock until the pressure pad is not touching the barrel and see how it shoots. Just be sure to use the same amount of shim material at both ends of the action so you do not "cant" the recoil lug. You can make the shims out of the plastic material in a lid from a Shortening Can, or a squeeze butter container. It will be easy to cut and if you make a mistake it is no big deal.

Now, if you do make the shims from the soft plastic, it can "cold flow" so after you tighten the screws down to see if the shims are holding the action high enough, loosen them right back up. Then snug them down at the Range. It might take 2-3 shims on each end with that material.

Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core
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Old February 25, 2001, 09:16 PM   #9
Join Date: February 18, 2001
Posts: 78
Do you use the shims to prop-up the action out of the stock some?
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