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Old December 30, 2013, 01:02 AM   #1
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Join Date: December 17, 2013
Posts: 4
Hi guys! New forum and New to to handloading..

Just want to say hi and hope to have some fun

I have a belief.. If you do something, you do it right.. Price is something I don't think about... ( even though I should )
Then I also think about the steps later on..
My idea?????
I want to learn to handload/reload.. I want to learn it step by step.. Work on precision and also later on progressive..
I have a list of equipment I have and on the way.. I plan on reading into this, but would like to hear opinions on the setup I have..
I plan on a Dillon 650 for progressive...

I am also getting as of now:
Lyman case gauge
Bullet ingredients are up for debate.. ( learn to load first )
Bullet puller Collets for each caliber
The rest tbd

My setup:
My setup is to get the measurements right, but also to be able to load faster.. Have a forster since I trust the engineering more.. ( dual piston )..
I have a simple lee bench press and hand press specifically for depriming.. Why? I want to deprime before I tumble them.. I'm calling them the dirty presses.. Case prep, then tumble again before load.. Hand, Hand, Hand tools.. Best reviewed 21st primer tool for sitting at the tv.. Best feel and adjustable depth.. Hand press for same reason and even Harvey deprimer for smaller calibers..

sharing my work load bench for presses
2nd bench cleaaaaaan for scales and crafty work..

Would really love the input and don't have anyone in person to tutor.. So a little nervous.. Thanks everyone..

Reloading equipment

Forster single stage press
-223 dies micro/ bushings
-308 dies micro/ bushings
Lee hand and bench press
- shell holders
-universal decamping and depriming dies
Thumbler tumbler / steel beads
-rcbs rotary media separator
Harvey deprimer
21st century hand primer
Hornady digital caliper
Abc's of reloading
Powder Dispenser Lyman 6th gen
- rcbs balance beam
-redding trickler
Hand Bullet puller franks arsenal
L.E. Wilson micrometer case trimmer
Rcbs case prep station
50x4 trays 308 win
50x6 cases see through 308 win
- will be getting for all cal's
IcarrySteel is offline  
Old December 30, 2013, 09:55 AM   #2
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Posts: 2,556
Well as you've already mentioned cartridge ingredients will be a matter of personal choice and will involve experimentation. My advice on recipe/load books is to go with the bullet manufacturer. (I'm assuming you're not forging your own bullets, but purchasing pre-made jacketed/plated from a company like Hornady, Berrys, Speer, etc.)

Powder manufacturers, Bullet Manufacturers, and others will make load books- From THEIR perspective. So the powder maker book will be Our Powder XYZ, and whatever bullet manufacturer we partner with, and you'll have to guestimate what's closest. A bullet manufacturer's book is going to be our bullet line for the caliber, and all the different powders we tried for this bullet.

I prefer a kinetic bullet puller to a collet/die setup. A kinetic hammer can save the bullet and cost you the powder. While a collet can ruin the bullet and save the powder. Bullets cost more than powder.

Are you doubling up with a Harvey Deprimer, and a lee hand press with universal decapping die?

When you say Thumler's and steel beads, do you mean beads, or pins?

Powder Dispenser Lyman 6th Gen? That's the dispenser/scale combo where you hit a button and a motor whirs until you get whatever number of grains in the pan you told it to dispense? I don't own one of those, I think they sound pretty cool. I also think they save effort more than time based on their grains/per second dispensed info. If you mount a powder thrower and trickle the last part of a grain, it seems faster to me.

I think RCBS makes the best balance beam out there. Possibly the top 2-3 balance beams.

The RCBS Rotary media separator- I think that's more for walnut/corncob vibratory tumblers than stainless steel. You need water to let the stainless media "flow" out of your cases. That's a lot of sloshing to do outside a bathtub, and I'd worry about losing a pin or two down a bathtub drain every time. I have a Thumler's and a I sep. with running water and a big cheap magnet from Rockler over a very fine strainer/flour sifter.
JimDandy is offline  
Old December 31, 2013, 12:56 AM   #3
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Join Date: December 17, 2013
Posts: 4
Powder bullets and cases I have to read on.. A month of research and I will judge which stones I want to lay for start.. Then grab the proper material to read.. Basically what you just said..

Yes! The kinetic is what I have.. Franks arsenal if I'm correct.. Didn't know the name.. I read an article or two that I should have both.. But the franks I have..

Harvey deprimer was my first grab.. Then I wanted to test it 3 min later and a 308 does not fit.. Bummer
Now I will use it for 556/223 and pistol cartridges.. It's simple..
Sooooo... I bought a lee ($30) bench press for depriming when I'm at the bench.. Then a hand press which I plan to use more for at the tv.. Depriming only...

Sorry meant pins for the thumler.. Couldn't get that word in my head last night..

The dispenser i will be going a different route.. Instead of doing what everyone does:
Put in what I want then just put in a case..
Test after 8-10
Then repeat


I will have two pans... One will be for the beam and one for the scale on the lyman.. Both will fit the beam..
I dispense a charge lower than I want ..
Then put it on the beam and wait for it to settle ( keep the beam preset to what I do want )
Start my second dispense
Trickle the last grains
Then replace the pans
Dump my charge into a catridge and repeat..

Reason why.. ??
I trust a beam over a digital any day..
Just want a way to speed it up..
The powder throw is for some reason a pin in my foot.. It just does not feel comfortable to me.. The look maybe??? Don't know..
Will need to overcome for progressive.. Though figure that out later lol
From there...
I will figure out something if that doesn't work..

Love the magnet idea!!!!!
The separator was on sale.. I figured I would give it a shot...

I write this with a grain of salt.. I am trying to do it right from the beggining..
IcarrySteel is offline  
Old December 31, 2013, 02:03 PM   #4
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Location: West Virginia
Posts: 2,258
If you are going to tumble the brass using a wet method then I would deprive first. If you are going to tumblr dry then I would not.
I don't ever remember being absent minded.
CrustyFN is offline  
Old January 11, 2014, 10:48 AM   #5
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Join Date: December 17, 2013
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Any opinions on whether to use wet vs dry?
Crazy hours lately since this is busy season..
Took a while to write back..

I've read people prefer wet, but takes too much time..
Cooking the brass, let it sit, etc...

My question I guess would be.. " Which has better results? "
IcarrySteel is offline  
Old January 11, 2014, 12:26 PM   #6
Join Date: November 9, 2012
Posts: 47
I have a belief.. If you do something, you do it right.. Price is something I don't think about...

Looking at your opening statement, you should definitely go with the wet tumbling method, buy once, cry once.

I have only used the wet tumbling method, Thumler's Tumbler and a dehydrator to dry the brass, and the results are first class. Everything get cleaned including the primer pocket, if you deprime your brass prior to cleaning of course.
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Old January 11, 2014, 08:00 PM   #7
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I prefer the dry method of cleaning my brass. It is relatively quick and not messy at all. That is the same method that all the commercial reloaders in my area use. I tumble my brass for about 3 hours or so and it looks just fine.
Μολὼν λαβέ
FloridaGuy is offline  
Old January 11, 2014, 09:16 PM   #8
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I use a Lee Hand Press to decap, then SS/Wet tumble my brass. I don't bother using a dryer. It sits on a towel, and air dries. I've got enough brass in the cycle I'm never waiting for the stuff I just shot to dry so I can reload it.
JimDandy is offline  
Old January 11, 2014, 09:43 PM   #9
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I dry tumble. The wet method is more work. With the dry method the outside of the cases look like new after 1.5 hours.
I don't ever remember being absent minded.
CrustyFN is offline  
Old January 11, 2014, 09:54 PM   #10
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The dry method does tend to leave a residue on the cases. Your fingers will turn purple from the walnut for example. Stuff gets stuck in the flash holes, and gets into your machinery, especially case feeders.

The Wet method tends to require drying time.

Pick your poison.
JimDandy is offline  
Old January 11, 2014, 10:56 PM   #11
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Posts: 331
Before you load...
Buy several reloading manuals and read the materials before the load data. Lymans 49th edition, Lee 2nd edition, Hornady 9th edition, Sierra edition V seventh printing, Hodgdons 2014 annual manual. I wasn't all that excited about the forwards on Speer, Berger and a couple others but their load data references was nice. Watch some of the you-tube vids like 76highboy hornady lnl ap even if you don't have a hornady. Find some about the Lee, Dillon, rcbs and you can gleen the best from them all.
Anything you don't understand, ask. No one will think you are dumb. Everybody knew nothing about this hobby at one time. Many of us are always learning and don't have all the answers.
Only use forum recommendations that you can verify out of a manual or a creditable site until you get to know specific people that always seem right on. Then research their data so you can learn before use.
Stick to the high lighted recommended loads in the manuals and use them to chrono, etc for results. Stay away from max loads for awhile until you have experienced several types of powder as well as powder types.
Don't get lazy or trust your equipment blindly when dealing with powder and measurements.
Watch a bunch of you tube exploding gun barrel from bad loads to get the incentive to be safe.
At a minimum, always wear eye pro.
Welcome to a great hobby.
bt380 is offline  

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