Froglube fails miserably.....A word of caution.

[Mystro]

As many may know I have been highly recommending Froglube. The Sig Custom shop has Froglube on hand and it is a good product.....BUT.........
I have noticed a issue with using Froglube over the last year. I was very hesitant to post this until I did alot of my own testing. It has come to my attention that excess Froglube over time will get gummy and sticky. This isnt a problem because it is recommended to wipe off all Froglube, as per instructions, after treatment. Here is my issue,.. The problem occurs when treating a entire gun with Froglube. When you heat up the gun and use either the thin or thick version of Froglube, it migrates into your trigger, sear,springs,etc.... This initially is good thing because it protects and lubricates those parts. The problem is that you cant wipe off the excess....See where I am going with this..?? This excess of Froglube over time becomes "sticky" which attracts dirt....... I suspected this a month ago after 500 rounds through a few of my guns treated with Froglube. Both my P229's decocker's action would return slow as if treated with maple syrup. My only solution was to use my favorite CLP G96 to remove the Froglube from the internals of my guns. You would have to reapply Froglube all over and then the same stickiness would reoccur. I talked to Froglube directly about this and they said that any stickiness was caused by excess amounts of Froglube still present. So at this point.......It seemed counterproductive to constantly remove a product that would get gummy and sticky in hard to access parts of the gun. This means I could only use Froglube on my barrel and rails and out side of my gun.:huh: I want a system that works together. I started testing with Slip 2000 EWL oil and grease. The EWL is very similar to Froglube that it migrates into the pours of the metal and lubricates and prevents rust. The oil also can be used as a CLP much like Froglube. It is odorless and friendly on all materials. After a few months of using EWL, it has outperformed the Froglube simple by not getting sticky over time. It has migrated into my triggers and after a full tear down, all parts are still lubricated and clean with NO stickness. The difference with EWL is you can leave excess on or apply it and wipe it dry leaving a protective film much the way Froglube is suppose to work and can be used on all parts of the guns internals.

I am pulling my endorsement of Froglube and recommend not getting it into the internals of your gun.

I have already used this system with 7 of my guns that I shoot the most and the results are outstanding. The P938 is lightning fast. I will be switching all of my 27 handguns over to this system over the next month.




I decided to do a experiment after finding some of my many treated guns sluggish and gummy decocker action on my Sig's. I applied a health amount of Froglube on my rifle rest and let it sit for 4 days. Sure enough, the viscosity changed to a thicker syrupy like substance. It wont even run. I then applied a few drops of fresh Froglube and it ran off the metal much thinner with the consistency of baby oil..
So in 4 days the viscosity went from thin baby oil to thick syrup. This is what I thought was happening to the little bit of Froglube that migrates into the gun to places you cant wipe off. I am going to check on this after a week and see how much thicker the Froglube gets. Froglube is a FDA tested product and they say it is safe to eat. Perhaps, like food, it spoils when air gets to it??? This is exactly why my decocker felt like it was in syrup, it was. What is disturbing is when a gun owner doesnt shoot that much and cleans his night stand gun with Froglube.

We all here shoot alot but this could be a major problem to those that dont. What happens to guns that are not shot alot like night stand guns that can sit for months. If the Froglube thickens up, it may cause a malfunction when the gun is needed to shoot especially on tight tolerances or ammo sensitive handguns.






Well thats it...FROGLUBE ='S FAIL

2 hours in the freezer at 20 degrees turns it into wax...... No you are not seeing things, that is my finger print in the Froglube.
Any oil that turns into a waxy substance at only at 20 degrees is garbage.

[Nanuk]

It may not have been "engineered" specifically for firearms, but it lubricates well and has been scientifically tested.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub..._1_10W-30.aspx

[Aguila Blanca]

Originally Posted by Nanuk

It may not have been "engineered" specifically for firearms, but it lubricates well and has been scientifically tested.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub..._1_10W-30.aspx

Yep.

Cut to the chase, and oil is oil. I use Castrol Syntec, because they offer a 5W50 viscosity that covers a wider temperature range than Mobil-1. Want to "migrate" into the pores? I mix my Castrol with super-fine molybdenum from Midway -- the stuff they sell for bullet coating. Molybdenum has an affinity for metal, so in combination with the synthetic oil I think I've got about the best protection available.

And it doesn't gum up.

[Dan-O]

Solution looking for a problem.

[Noreaster]

Thank you for the info. During a rifle course we borrowed ar15s from the facility and we experienced failure to fire due to the firing pin being gummed up. It was eventually blamed on the froglube and not putting it on properly by the staff (their own conclusion.) I suspected it was running off and getting into the BCG and gumming it up.

[Dragline45]

After trying just about every gun oil out there I have pretty much switched over to grease. I use Brownell's Action Lube Plus or Weapon Shield gun grease. If I am going to use oil I found M-pro 7 to be top notch.

[AK103K]

Sounds like the old WD-40 is bad for your guns thing. I used that for years and never had a problem. Once the internet showed up, I was constantly told that all sorts of bad things should have happened to my guns by using WD-40, but I never saw a one of them. Im suspecting the FrogLube problem here is a lot of the same.

People tend to use WAY to much of "anything", usually way beyond what the directions say, and then complain that the magical lube of choice, is a failure.

Ive been using FrogLube since it first showed up, on every gun I shoot a lot (and some that dont get shot all that much). Like the WD-40 I used for years, its never been a problem, and I find it works well, and as advertised. I shoot every week, year round, in all weather, and everything I shoot, gets cleaned with it as soon as I come home.

I have yet to see anything gum up, or freeze up, or collect dirt or dust any worse than anything else thats been "properly" applied. Ive had zero rust issues on anything its been applied too. Then again, I apply it per the directions and everything gets a very light film, and its not poured or slathered on into every nook and cranny.

On anything that Ive used it "internally" on, Ive initially flushed it well with Gun scrubber, and then only applied at most, two or three drops and then worked the action t get it distributed.

The only complaint I have about FrogLube, is its price. Its a bit salty compared to others, but so far, with heavy use, it has worked as advertised for me, when used as directed.

[ClydeFrog]

You should try those T&Es with a few other web favorites; IGG(Italian Gun Grease), Eezox, LPX, SEAL1, Gunzilla....

Id be interested to see how those well known CLPs stand up.

Im happy with Ballistol & LPX for now.

Clyde

[Salmoneye]

My Grandmother's Singer Sewing Machine Oil from 1920 isn't good enough any more, huh?

[raven11]

thanks for the warning, i was about to buy some of it to try out because of the "rave" reviews on the net of no more lubrication but having your internals messed up like that Froglube isn't worth the effort

[bedbugbilly]

I'm really amazed that my firearms that I had fifty years ago would even function without all of this new fangled stuff. . . . but they are still functioning just fine today as they did back then. 'Course we didn't have all these fancy "smart phones" where you could keep up on the latest technology . . . we did have a "party line" though if that counts?

[Slamfire]

Froglube must have a volatile that evaporates off leaving a thick layer. This would work well in some applications , for someone who is looking for a lube close to a semi grease. Oils always have this issue of dripping off. That is why greases are so popular in certain applications, grease stays put.

Not every lubricant is appropriate for every application. Watch oil, (does anyone still use mechanical watches?) is too light for firearms applications. In cold weather, like 20 F, I would remove all traces of oil and grease as I have seen mechanisms run sluggish in temperatures below freezing. It is my considered opinion that the Army’s phobia about over lubricating comes from the cultural memory of Korea. There in minus 40 F weather Garands/Carbines/Sub guns jammed when oil gummed up. Every Vietnam veteran I have met was told to run their firearms dry, be they M1911’s or M16’s. It took until the invasion of Iraq, nearly a half century later, to finally convince some in the Army that AR’s run better wet. At least in hot weather. In cold, I would remove all lube.

I'm really amazed that my firearms that I had fifty years ago would even function without all of this new fangled stuff. . . . but they are still functioning just fine today as they did back then. 'Course we didn't have all these fancy "smart phones" where you could keep up on the latest technology . . . we did have a "party line" though if that counts?

I read an article which I believe is correct, that older mechanisms were meant to operate with the older lubrication technology. The article specifically mentioned a diamond nanoparticle lube that once it got on sear surfaces, did lubricate them. Lubricated the sear mechanism too well as it needed some friction! Too much technology can cause issues.

[BigJimP]

Thanks for the testing and the review....

I've been considering trying some ....but I'm going to stick with Break Free and Wilson's Ultima Lube...

I appreciate the insight...

[James K]

Slamfire wrote, "...older mechanisms were meant to operate with the older lubrication technology."

But many of the "older mechanisms" are also the same mechanisms in use today (e.g., the 1911 and BHP) so why shouldn't the older lubes work? There are undoubtedly excellent and better lubes on the market today, but it seems to me that folks often use a new product for a limited time/application and then endorse it without question. And it seems the enthusiasm has more to do with a "cool" name and ad hype than with the quality of the product.

I have a reasonable quantity of Singer Sewing Machine Oil that I use pretty often. It is designed for use on high precision machinery (stuff that makes a gun look crude), won't gum up over years, and does a good job of lubrication. I have other, and newer, products, some of them very good, but that old Singer oil works fine. (Now if I only had a couple of Singer M1911A1 pistols to use it on!)

Jim

[Tactical Jackalope]

I use Rigs gun grease now too. No more oil for me. If I'm out, I do go to motor oil though. I don't have much of a problem here in Miami with anything freezing up anyways. My issue is the oil evaporating or heating up and melting off the gun.

Thanks for the warning OP!

[Dragline45]

My Grandmother's Singer Sewing Machine Oil from 1920 isn't good enough any more, huh?

I would say no. I actually used some a couple weeks ago when I ran out of M-Pro 7 which is what I usually use and noticed that by the next day or two it seemed like the oil dried up. It's also far too thin for my liking, although I wouldn't say it's any worse than Rem Oil which I use only as a cleaner nowadays.

[dgludwig]

Thanks for the info Mystro. Gives me something to ponder.

[Aguila Blanca]

Originally Posted by James K

But many of the "older mechanisms" are also the same mechanisms in use today (e.g., the 1911 and BHP) so why shouldn't the older lubes work?

If memory serves, I believe John Browning intended the M1911 to be lubricated with whale oil. Which, of course, is not available today.

[Spats McGee]

I've seen mixed reviews of Froglube. I've got a small sampler of it, and have been tempted to try it. Now, not so much.

[BigD_in_FL]

Sounds like it behaves a lot like WD-40 over time......guess I'll stick with my various products like RemOil, Hoppe's thick gun grease, Shooter's Choice, and RIG

[AK103K]

I've seen mixed reviews of Froglube. I've got a small sampler of it, and have been tempted to try it. Now, not so much.

Like anything else, if you use and apply it as its intended to be used, I doubt youll have any issues.

Ive used many of the other products available over the years, and most worked OK, "if" you followed the directions. I never remember any of them recommending that you slather it on and leave it that way. If youre using ANY of them, and applying their product like that, then youre doing it wrong.

As I said earlier, many dont bother to read the directions, and/or, think they know how to better apply them. None of my guns ever had enough lube on them that there was anything "showing" or "flowing" when it was applied. Ive shot next to people who had so much crap on their guns, that they actually sprayed crap on me with the first couple of rounds fired. Im sure others here have been there too.

As a plus, if you insist on doing the "slather" thing, FrogLubes smell at least wont readily give you away like the usual gun cleaners. Thats another sign youre using to much too, by the way. The smell of Hoppes in aisle 3, is a dead give away.

Sounds like it behaves a lot like WD-40 over time.

Again, improper application, give poor results. Over the years, before better things arrived, I literally used gallons of WD-40 on my guns and other things, and never once had any of the problems Ive been told I should have had.

[BigD_in_FL]

And there are always exceptions to everything, but the majority of folks have had issues with stickiness and gumming up the works.....sounds like this product might be doing the same.....if it works for you, great - it hasn't for many

[AK103K]

.....it hasn't for many

And youre basing this on what?

Have you used it (as directed) and had any problems?

[Crankgrinder]

I used straight motor oil on a new gun first time I shot it, used it ever since no problem here.

[BigD_in_FL]

AK103 - that was directed towards the WD-40, not the Frog Lube,

and in that regard, it is based on many folks having issues with gummed up actions and the varnish-like residue WD leaves