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Old January 25, 2013, 04:01 PM   #1
Join Date: September 14, 2012
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What signs for brass being bad for .40SW

What do I look for in brass to signal it to be thrown out for the .40 SW?

Also, how many loads would you estimate I can get out of a piece of brass running light loads behind a 180gr in the .40SW?
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Old January 25, 2013, 05:40 PM   #2
serf 'rett
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thrown out?
Split necks, loose primer pockets and extreme Glock bellies come to mind.

how many loads?
See above.
A lack of planning on your part does not necessarily constitute an emergency on my part.
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Old January 27, 2013, 06:33 PM   #3
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usually you get at least 5 reloads out of a brass case before you might have to trim the case down due to stretching. Id just keep checking them after you shoot them for any cracks, major dents, overall length. If you have to question whether the case is good or not, then don't use it
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Old January 27, 2013, 10:16 PM   #4
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Brokenanew, I look at all above suggested. Same with all calibers.
For range/plinking rounds, I do not even keep track any more for pistol. I know I have had 8-10 reloads through many straight wall pistol brass(some may be higher), as long as they show no signs of defect and are to SAMMI specs, I keep reloading them.
When seconds count, why is help minutes away?
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Old January 27, 2013, 11:53 PM   #5
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If you are truly going to be running light 180 grain loads in .40 S&W, you'll more than likely lose the brass in the grass or mud outdoors or if an indoor range -- forward of the firing line where the range tends to keep it for their own resale... before you come across too many that you can't keep loading.

I don't know anyone that trims .40 S&W pistol brass for any reason. I can't see why you'd need or want to.

What to look for in brass to make safe, quality handloads in .40 S&W? There's only one thing IMO that is of utmost importance: case mouth tension. The grip on the bullet has to be solid. You want no chance that the bullet can set back in the case or be inadvertently (or willfully!) pushed further in to the brass, either by a firm push manually or by the violent action of a semi-auto pistol cycling during live fire.

When a bullet gets pushed further down in to a case the space for the combustion gets reduced and the internal pressure rises exponentially and leads to catastrophic results.

I ensure that I have good case mouth tension in a few ways:
--I use the LEAST amount of mouth flaring I can get away with
--I use brass of certain head stamps that I have positive experience with
--I radically avoid some head stamps that I don't trust (experience)
--I know a certain feedback and "feel" in my press handle when I seat a bullet that is familiar, and I know a "feel" that is suspect
--I take a freshly loaded round and moderately push the round slug-first in to the edge of my bench top to see if I can forcibly make that slug set back

This works for me. I have extreme confidence in my ammo.
Attention Brass rats and other reloaders: I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.
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Old January 29, 2013, 05:51 PM   #6
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Above is great advice. Thx
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Old January 29, 2013, 08:52 PM   #7
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This is good stuff. Thanks! What about crimp? How do you know if you have to much crimp, or too little? Can u have to much crimp? etc

I will be shooting a Glock 27 .40 with these reloads. Ive checked the barrel out and it appears to be one of the better supported barrels. The brass Ive gotten out of it doesn't appear to be having any visible bulging so thats a thumbs up
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