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Old September 9, 2012, 02:30 PM   #1
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CZ 75

So I have a Czech manufactured and assembled (I'm told) CZ 75 in 9mm. I want to "customize" it. Should I dovetail the front, pop Novak night sights in, and reblue it? I'm for sure putting new recoil spring in. Think the original is in it. Maybe do ALL new springs. Polish feedramp... Not sure what else. Opinions? Additional ideas?
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Old September 9, 2012, 02:44 PM   #2
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SS guide rod? (... Never mind...)
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Last edited by CWKahrFan; September 9, 2012 at 09:50 PM.
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Old September 9, 2012, 04:34 PM   #3
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I don't mean to be a smartass, but are you a machinist? Because if you are not, I don't think it is really as easy as "poppin in" some Novak sights. Depending on whether you have a "B" model, or earlier pre-B, there may or may not be dovetails, and then there may or may not be factory ready Novak sights to fit it. That becomes problem one. Then "polishing a feedramp": have you done it before? A person CAN screw it up. There are not a lot of drop in parts for the CZ's, not like the 1911's, etc. You may need to decide if you need a competend gunsmith, and get pricing within your intended investment range, or maybe you ARE a savvy home gunsmith, and the CZ is you next project. Proceed with respect to you skills and investment.
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Old September 9, 2012, 04:46 PM   #4
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Check out CZ custom and Cajun Gun Works... both offer drop in parts for the CZ... upgraded parts... replacement springs... and both offer gun smithing work.

There is a little debate on if SS guide rods are good ideas for the CZ. I think some of the aluminum framed compacts didn't like it, can't remember 100% about the steel full sized.

Also check out it is a good site. One of the oldest/original cz site. Lots of good info on tuning and new sights.
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Old September 9, 2012, 04:56 PM   #5
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the short guide rod concerned me at first, but i have the full size stainless guide rod in my sp01 shadow, and i see no advantage what so ever over the short one in my 75b. the full size rod is a HUGE PAIN to put back in on reassembly.

the springs are a must. look up some threads on what poundage you want. the hammer spring makes a huge difference.

if you have a non-omega trigger, youtube the sear spring flip procedure. it takes some effort and some mechanical common sense, but by no means impossible for the average layman.

definitely look into cz custom shop for anything more advanced than that. they can remove the firing pin block. i'm told that makes the trigger really nice. i don't have any experience with that mod tho.
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Old September 9, 2012, 07:42 PM   #6
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I suggest you put a thousand or so rounds throught it before thinking aobut modifying the pistol.
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Old September 9, 2012, 09:06 PM   #7
Walt Sherrill
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the short guide rod concerned me at first, but i have the full size stainless guide rod in my sp01 shadow, and i see no advantage what so ever over the short one in my 75b.
For those unfamiliar with CZs:

The guns with full-length guide-rods have an opening on the front of the slide that allows a full-length guide rod to stick out when the slide is back; that opening isn't there for the standard 9mm 75B or 75 -- so the longer guide rod won't function. (The .40 models do use a full-length guide rod, with different slides.)

Switching from plastic to metal in the guide rod is more cosmetic than functional -- but it if makes the owner happy...

That said, you should NOT use a metal guide rod in an alloy-framed CZ, as they can cause wear on the receiver stop -- where the base of the guide rod rests during cycling. If that part of the frame is damaged by a metal guide rod, CZ won't cover the repair under warranty. (They also won't sell you a metal guide rod for an alloy-framed gun, if you tell them the model you're ordering it for has an alloy frame.)

I've had CZs (and clones) with the full-length guide rods, with the shorter ones, with plastic ones and with metal ones, and I can't tell a bit of difference in function between any of them.


Last edited by Walt Sherrill; September 10, 2012 at 07:47 AM.
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Old September 9, 2012, 11:36 PM   #8
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Loose and Walt know the CZ.
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Old September 10, 2012, 01:21 AM   #9
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Have you even shot it yet??
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Old September 10, 2012, 07:12 AM   #10
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How old is it?
If it's well used I would replace the springs. I see no need to put anything but factory rated springs in the CZ, the 75 is amazing as it is.
I ordered a SS short guide rod for mine and happen to catch the frame battering issue before it showed up and even with a steel frame I decided it is completely unnecessary and probably not a good idea, a solution looking for a problem. CZ started using the plastic version for a reason, the steel is harder on the slide stop also from what I read. The steel one I bought is being sent back.
I just picked up a new matte SS 75B that has a extended mag release stock that I like a lot so I would consider that as a nice upgrade.
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Old September 10, 2012, 08:11 AM   #11
Walt Sherrill
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the steel is harder on the slide stop also from what I read...
The folks who tell you that really don't understand what's going on. The slide stop gets battered when the slide slams forward, not during recoil -- so when there's damage, it's because (1) some of the openings on the frame, where the slide stop slides through, are out of spec (so that the force of the barrel lug isn't hitting the slide stop squarely/properly, and focusing the full force into one small area), and/or (2) a too-heavy recoil spring is being used. With a heavier recoil spring, more force is stored and is released as the slide comes back and is "STOPPED." (That's why it's called a slide stop!)

Note: you generally can't damage the frame by using a light recoil spring. Spent casings may be ejected farther than you like, etc., but there not likely to be damage; the experience of recoil will be different, too.

I've known of folks who demonstrate this by firing guns without recoil springs. (1911Tuner, who participates here from time to time, has done this with .45s to make the point.) Guns with the recoil spring removed work fine; they fire and the recoil isn't terribly different, but the slide doesn't return to load the next round. The gun isn't damaged.

The designed purpose of the recoil spring is primarily to store force that returns the slide and loads the next round -- not to protect the gun or the shooter from recoil. The guide rod does holds the spring in position while it is installed; with many guns, the slide itself captures and retains the recoil spring once it is installed, and the slide would compress the spring, regardless. In most guns, all that's really needed is a "base plate" attached to the spring that will position the spring properly against the frame.

In a CZ, the guide rod rests half of its base against the receiver stop, a flat, semi-circular area on the frame. THat is the "base plate" mentioned above. When the guide rod is steel and used in an alloy-framed gun, the receiver stop can be damaged. ("Can be" but not necessarily "will be"; many folks have used steel guide rods in alloy guns for years without noticeable problems.) Steel against steel has not been a problem, and that's what the original CZs used. It's still used in some models. (With the alloy compact guns, the guide rod tilts MORE than is the case with the full-size guns, so there's more metal/metal movement.) That seems to be why CZ went to plastic; it wasn't introduced until they started building alloy-framed guns, and I guess they decided to use plastic with most, if not all, of their guns.)


Last edited by Walt Sherrill; September 10, 2012 at 03:36 PM.
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Old September 10, 2012, 02:27 PM   #12
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Another point of interest. Most pistols are designed so that the slide/bolt contacts steel at the end of its movement. The steel is used not only for strength but because it has high elasticity (Young's modulus). A gun like the 1911 or the CZ 75 depends for part of its slide return energy on the slide literally bouncing off the steel frame. If the spring is too strong, the slide will stop before hitting the frame and the slide will return with LESS energy than if it had hit the frame. The same thing happens if a plastic or rubber buffer is used; the buffer absorbs energy without returning it; so slide return is slower and feeding and return to battery becomes erratic.

Quite often people who don't understand that try to "preserve" the pistol frame by installing a heavy recoil spring or a buffer. In most cases things will work OK, but those "improvements" can actually cause malfunctions which may be fine on a "range queen" but highly dangerous in a gun being used for serious purposes.

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