The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > Hogan's Alley > Handguns: The Semi-automatic Forum

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old September 8, 2012, 11:28 PM   #1
Senior Member
Join Date: September 16, 2010
Location: The worst Lancaster in the U.S.
Posts: 119
Cleaning a Sig 2022

Don't know much about cleaning guns and I'm looking for recommendations on what to buy and what to look out for; any one want to help me out? I'd really appreciate any help you would be willing to give me.

My first handgun, just payed for it today. I did a LOT of research on which gun to get(all the gun shops around here must hate me for all the handling of guns and dry firing I've done the past month or so) but I finally made up my mind. In my desire to find the gun for me, I didn't spend much time on cleaning guns though
I have 10 days to figure this stuff out, it seems like enough time but I'm hoping this week and a half flies by!
BrokenBottles is offline  
Old September 8, 2012, 11:42 PM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: April 3, 2011
Posts: 2,088
Congrats on your new pistol. First thing you should do is read the manual in it's entirety. It will tell you most of what you need to know about your new pistol. Here's the link.

As far as what products to use. Mine came with a little bottle of Sig Oil and a couple of nylon brushes. I also use Otis.

Good luck and safe shooting.

Last edited by Marquezj16; September 9, 2012 at 10:21 AM.
Marquezj16 is offline  
Old September 9, 2012, 12:20 AM   #3
Senior Member
Join Date: September 16, 2010
Location: The worst Lancaster in the U.S.
Posts: 119
Awesome, thank you very much. I've skimmed over the manual already(downloaded it once I first got interested in the gun), I'll be sure to give it a more in depth look now.
BrokenBottles is offline  
Old September 9, 2012, 08:03 AM   #4
Senior Member
Join Date: June 19, 2012
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 634
Don't have the link handy, but on the SIG website there is a video about cleaning. It's pretty simplistic but that's really all you need.

Last edited by jmhyer; September 9, 2012 at 09:48 AM.
jmhyer is offline  
Old September 9, 2012, 09:25 AM   #5
Senior Member
Join Date: March 18, 1999
Location: Nogales, AZ USA
Posts: 3,902
There's really no need to go crazy on gun cleaning.

I used to clean for hours to ensure the gun was completely free of carbon and filth (Marine Corp training).

Now, the barrel gets 3 passes with the bore brush, followed by some wet/dry patches, some plastic brushing, a wipe down, and the cleaning is done. Lube and re-assemble.

It's not because I've become lazy, but that I've realized excessive cleaning is not necessary.

BTW, good choice on your first gun; I love my SigPro 2340.
God gave you a soul.
Your parents, a body.
Your country, a rifle.

Keep all of them clean.
Destructo6 is offline  
Old September 9, 2012, 09:51 AM   #6
Senior Member
Join Date: April 13, 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 132
Have always used Breakfree CLP and alittle WeaponShield Lube/Grease on the rails and barrel (outside)...
Use this on all my SIGs and pistols... for me, a good combo.
UZO is offline  
Old September 13, 2012, 08:32 PM   #7
Senior Member
Join Date: October 8, 2005
Location: palm beach county, fl
Posts: 212
We all have our own ways but I would suggest simply following the owners manual. I have a 2340 and it has been flawless for 6 years, the pro series is Sigs unloved gem.
rickmelear is offline  
Old September 13, 2012, 10:42 PM   #8
Senior Member
Join Date: July 24, 2012
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 4,075
I think we need a Cleaning "how to" sticky somewhere...

Here is a copy/paste of a reply I wrote to another looking for cleaning advice... you may or may not find it useful...

Balistol is a CLP type cleaner, how well it lubricates, I do not know as I have never used it. Its not really a true CLP I don't believe, I know its been around for a long time though.

I do use Breakfree CLP in an aerosol can, I use it to spray out the trigger and Fire control group areas. It forces out junk and it leaves a thin coat of oil on all the parts and it gets down into the nooks and crannies that I can't reach to lubricate by hand. (I do this after cleaning the frame with my chosen cleaner)

During the first few hundred rounds, cleaning after every range trip is a good idea, after the "break in" period the gun has done all the initial wear fitting of the parts and you can hold off of doing a full cleaning as often. I would say, every few hundred rounds is fine. (unless this is a CC piece... then it needs cleaned every trip, and wiped down regularly)

If you can find someone with a little experience, have them sit with you and help guide you as you clean your gun. Keep in mind there are some bad habits out there, so if anything they say departs heavily from what you have read in the forums, it may be one of those bad habits. If you are unsure, come here and ask.

My process is as follows:
(Details vary depending on type of gun)

At the range before I leave (or soon after getting home) I spray CLP down the barrel from the breech, and let the extra drip out of the barrel. I let this soak in until I get ready to clean. I find this helps loosen up the crud and make cleaning easier. If I put a lot of lead rounds through the gun, (say 400+) I let it sit overnight muzzle down, so the CLP can soak in and break up more crud.

1) Field strip
2) Run a dry patch through the barrel, then a wet patch of bore cleaner

(I find bore cleaner cleans barrels faster than CLP or general purpose cleaner, because well, thats what its designed for. As there is lead and copper fouling that regular cleaners have more trouble with. Do not use bore cleaner on the whole gun, some are bad for plastics or some finishes/coatings. I am currently using an ammonia free foaming bore cleaner that is low odor and effective, I just spray some in the barrel at step 2)

3) Wipe all the loose crud from the frame/slide/parts with a rag
4) Using my chosen cleaner, clean all the parts and frame/slide
5) Using aerosol CLP (or other spray cleaner) spray out the trigger group and FCG areas
6) Wipe all cleaned parts dry with a clean rag
7) Run another wet patch of bore cleaner through the barrel
(I do not have to do this with the foam cleaner)

8) Run the correct size bronze brush through the barrel a few times, then run a clean patch wet with bore cleaner. Repeat until the patch comes out clean. Remember to clean from breach to muzzle whenever possible.
(I use bronze brushes, I find it cleans faster than nylon, and I feel it does not damage the barrel. I use CLP or general cleaner to wet the patch now that I use foam bore cleaner... if you go too long without cleaning the barrel, it may take a while, you may even need to let the barrel soak overnight)

9) Run a couple dry patches through the barrel, then run a patch with some lubricant through the barrel, this is to protect from rust. Gun oil, CLP, or other quality oil or protectant.
(Running a patch with oil is not as necessary for chromed lined barrels, but it doesn't hurt, keep that in mind should you ever get a gun with one)

10) Give all parts a coat of gun oil (or CLP, protectant, etc) then wipe off the excess with a clean rag
10a) Some gun finishes require a light coat of oil/protectant to prevent rust, if your finish requires, coat and wipe off excess (example: blued guns)
11) Lubricate as required
12) Reassemble the gun
13) Function Check
14) One final wipe down with a clean rag before storing

If I go shooting, and do not shoot enough rounds to warrant a full cleaning, unless I plan on shooting again the very next day, I do run a few patches of CLP or cleaner through the barrel. That helps make cleaning easier when I do the full clean after the next range trip or two. I prefer CLP because it also protects and lubes while it soaks in and breaks up crud. (As I said above, I use spray CLP, I can just squirt it in the barrel breach without need to break out my cleaning rod)

There is no need to spend an hour or more cleaning a firearm... (barring a full tear down of really old firearms) Just clean it well, and don't sweat every little tiny spec of dirt. Plus things like aerosol cleaner really help speed up the process.

Some extra things to consider:

CLP is a good all purpose product, it cleans well though not as quickly as actual cleaner. It is a pretty good lubricant as well. It is one of the best protectants you can get. It comes in a bottle, a squirt bottle, or aerosol.

As far as aerosol degreasers... non-chlorinated break cleaner works well and is cheap, I find it safe for polymer frames, but some plastic grips or parts may not like it. Electronics spray cleaner works well, it costs a little more money but is much more plastic safe. Dedicated aerosol gun cleaner/degreasers tend to be expensive. They work well for triggers, FCGs, and other hard to reach area like extractors and firing pin grooves. (BTW, it is recommended to test the cleaner on a small portion of the gun first)

There are a couple trains of thought for cleaning extractors and firing pin channels. Wet and Dry... Some say clean them but use no lube, as this prevents collecting dust and crud in these critical areas. Others say to clean and then use a very light coat of oil for these areas.

I would say that any gun that will serve in a defensive/CCW role needs dry, and a range only gun can run with a little coat of oil.

As I said, aerosol cleaners work well here, and aerosol CLP works well if you want to use lube. Using canned air after will force out all but a thin layer of CLP. I personally use an aerosol dry lube, so I at least have a minimum of lubrication for these areas while still being dry and not attracting dirt. I also have less worry about moisture in the air causing rust

As far as lubricants for general gun lubrication use...

For me personally, I use a quality grease on slides/bolts and other bearing surfaces like locking lugs. I also use it on the sear where it engages the hammer, I find it makes the trigger a little smoother. I use a quality oil everywhere else. (lately I have been using Lubriplate products that are non-toxic. Lubriplate makes quality stuff, but they sell only in large batches because they are an industrial focused company. I found a repackager that sells smaller amounts though)

As far as the trigger and the FCG, I use aerosol CLP to clean them out, then use canned air to spray out the extra CLP. Then I use my chosen oil to lube the parts. (you could just use the CLP and leave it there, if that is your chosen lube) The aerosol CLP lubricates the areas underneath that I can't reach easy, I prefer this to aerosol degreaser for that reason. Though some simpler trigger and FCG setups are easier to lubricate fully.

As far as AR style rifles... (should you choose to get one in the future) After cleaning, I use CLP exclusively for lubrication. As the traditional style gas system needs to be run wet for reliability as round count rises. If it is a piston style AR, I use grease and oil like on other guns, because they run cleaner than traditional gas ARs.

Others have their own preferred cleaners and lubricants. Over time, you may find your own preferences.

I keep rags separated for cleaning and those used to wipe off excess oil and final wipe downs, and I wash them regularly. (I use a washing machine, and heavy wash cycle with a double rinse, a little chlorine may help get them cleaner than detergent alone)

A set of picks (brass if you can find them but not needed) and a toothbrush or nylon utility brush (some cleaning kits come with them) can really help clean the corners and stubborn crud.

Every gun is different, so where and how to lubricate is different for each. The instruction manual is a good source of info for this. If still unsure, come here and ask.

Went longer than I expected... is there a general "how to" on cleaning on the forums? I would think there is, if not, we can get one.


I also recommend an otis cleaning kit... I like mine a lot. I find it cleans quicker, and I use less patches. (the patches can be used three times, and I may use the patch a couple extra passes if I am just cleaning a really dirty bore and need to wipe out the loose crud from the brush. So I end up only using 2 or 3 if its a really dirty bore) There is a small learning curve for the kit, due to how the patches work. Plus they are designed to feel pretty snug/tight when pulling them through, you will get the feel for this after a few times, and learn when its too tight/loose, and to redo the patch.

Last edited by marine6680; September 13, 2012 at 11:09 PM.
marine6680 is offline  
Old September 13, 2012, 11:23 PM   #9
Senior Member
Join Date: September 11, 2012
Posts: 139

Is there a clappy face symbol? I mean come on, what's to add?
If your suggestion for a how to clean sticky comes through, you have my vote on using your last message.
TheSILENTtype is offline  
Old September 14, 2012, 08:40 AM   #10
Senior Member
Join Date: October 20, 2007
Location: Richardson, TX
Posts: 7,267
5) Using aerosol CLP (or other spray cleaner) spray out the trigger group and FCG areas
FWIW there are two basic schools of thought re: trigger groups and hard-to-reach places.
  • Flush with CLP frequently to keep things lubricated, the fresh oil will move the dirt out of the moving parts
  • Oil sparingly and infrequently, you can never really dry out all of the nooks and crannies with a rag, adding more oil will just cause more dirt to accumulate in those places and gum things up
I'm in the latter camp. I don't like continually cleaning to remove oily gunk. I've never had a trigger malfunction on me due to lack of oil. YMMV.
As far as aerosol degreasers... non-chlorinated break cleaner works well and is cheap...
I feel that two mandatory warnings are in order whenever brake cleaner is brought up.
  1. Do not confuse the non-chlorinated product with "regular" brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner. The latter two are a good deal harsher and may strip gun finishes.
  2. My oft-repeated advice about brake cleaner goes like this: its greatest strength is that it will strip every last trace of grease and oil from metal, but when you're cleaning a gun, this can also be its greatest drawback. It is absolutely essential to re-oil any unfinished, blued, or parkerized / phosphate finished surface after using brake cleaner on it; otherwise, the part will be left with little or no corrosion protection. Although the SIG P2022 in question probably doesn't incorporate many parts like this, I still think it's an important warning. FWIW I rarely use the stuff; I only get it out to clear truly epic accumulations of gunk, usually on a gun I just purchased, because I never let mine get that dirty.
"Smokey, this is not 'Nam. This is bowling. There are rules... MARK IT ZERO!!" - Walter Sobchak
carguychris is offline  
Old September 14, 2012, 12:35 PM   #11
Junior member
Join Date: May 1, 2010
Posts: 5,797
basic gun care items....

For general cleaning/care, get these products;
Mpro7's LPX, Gunzilla, Ballistol(a CFC free, non toxic spray), a Bore-Snake Viper(for the inside of the pistol barrel), Hoppes #09, Weaponshield, Birchwood-Casey Synthetic Gun Cleaner, a few GI type toothbrushes(OD).

Dont use too much CLP(clean-lube-protect) like LPX or Gunzilla. A small bottle should last you a few years with regular use(depending on how much you fire with the pistol).
Some gunners use gun oil, greases, etc but I dont find them required.
Brownells, is a great resource for cleaning products, gunsmithing tools and related gear. Every firearm owner should use Brownells.

Keep your pistol in a Bore-Store bag or in a case that wont scuff or mar the weapon.

ClydeFrog is offline  
Old September 14, 2012, 03:22 PM   #12
Senior Member
Join Date: July 24, 2012
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 4,075
Oh yeah... you can't use the chlorinated break cleaner or carburetor cleaner. Glad that was mentioned... it needs to be reminded.

If I am not flushing out the area with aerosol CLP... and I want it cleaner/degreased I use the electronics cleaner. Its much less harsh than the other stuff.

I find caned air or air compressor nozzle (set it fairly low, like 15-20psi) will drive out all the excess CLP from the trigger and fire control groups, and makes it much drier so it attracts less grime. I do go over any areas that I feel are critical wear areas with a small amount of oil using a precision oiler nozzle. (like the sear, disconnector, or other part that has higher stress)
marine6680 is offline  
Old September 14, 2012, 07:08 PM   #13
Senior Member
Join Date: August 22, 2012
Posts: 1,031
I have a SP2022 which I've probably cycled close to 15k rounds through.

I give the barrel a few passes of the brush, clean the feed ramp, and lube the rails.

It was a cheap gun and I haven't done more than that, and it doesn't give a damn that I didn't.
thedudeabides is offline  
Old September 15, 2012, 12:03 AM   #14
Senior Member
Join Date: September 16, 2010
Location: The worst Lancaster in the U.S.
Posts: 119
Marine, that was a great wealth of knowledge.

You guys have been a huge help and the gun isn't even in my hands yet. I think I have more research to do still. Good thing I have so much free time when I'm in class...
BrokenBottles is offline  
Old September 15, 2012, 10:08 AM   #15
Senior Member
Join Date: July 24, 2012
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 4,075
Glad to help.

One more thing... not likely a problem you will see often... but good info to know. (seeing as you are only getting a pistol at the moment, this is a small concern)

Old surplus ammo, it can be corrosive. It is a good idea to clean soon after shooting corrosive ammo.

This is only a problem if you use old surplus ammo... or very old ammo in general. Some newer Russian made ammo may still be corrosive, but for at least the past several years, all the new manufacture Russian stuff I have seen is non-corrosive. So I would not worry much about it if you are buying new ammo.
marine6680 is offline  
Old September 15, 2012, 12:38 PM   #16
Senior Member
Join Date: April 10, 2008
Location: Alaska
Posts: 3,699
I don't think we have to worry about corrosive ammo in the Sig.

I also go with the minimalism approach. Take it down, brush through the barrel with Hoppes 9 and then lube per the manual.

Newer Sigs are coming with TW25 grease. Good for the sliding parts but does not get into the firing group decently. I use the CLP for that.

Also not, a striker fired gun does not tolerate crud, ergo CLP in the striker would be bad as it attracts and then keeps crud where you do not want it.

I have lost it, but a well trainer armorer posted on the site some time back on just that. Oil attracts crud, crud stops the striker from functioning (reason bolts in bolt action rifles are enclosed).

It is entirely possible to stop up the striker on a glock, XD etc.

The nice thing about the Sigs are being hammer fired they do not have that picky aspect and you can dose and be good.

The super in depth protocols have their place (combat and or keeping trained for combat). Our use does not come close to requiring it.

Good comprehensive list, makes a great reference to really do it to the 9s.
RC20 is offline  
Old September 15, 2012, 06:41 PM   #17
Senior Member
Join Date: July 24, 2012
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 4,075
I only clean that well because I wait until at least 500 rounds before cleaning. If I cleaned more often, light cleaning is ok, followed by a more detailed cleaning every couple thousand rounds.
marine6680 is offline  
Old September 15, 2012, 10:43 PM   #18
Senior Member
Join Date: April 10, 2008
Location: Alaska
Posts: 3,699
Found IT!

I was trying to do something else and I finally found where I stashed this.

I would call it defiitive on mantiani semi auots. The rest is a quote, not me.

I've trained as an armorer for Glock and several other makes of firearms used in LE work.

As an armorer I've had to resolve more functioning problems caused by improper cleaning & lubrication practices by users/owners than those caused by just about anything else.

More often than not it's been the improper introduction of solvents, CLP's, oils, etc to parts of the firearms where liquids should not be present, let alone remain, during normal operation.

The introduction of liquids (or other contaminants) ... even solvents, cleaners, CLP's and oils, especially in excessive amounts which run off into places they shouldn't remain, and can't easily drain from ... can result in the accumulation of fouling, debris, grit, metal shavings and "stuff" which can interfere with the normal operation and functioning of the firearm.

While it's certainly been an occasional problem in hammer-fired pistols and DA revolvers, the openings often found in (under) the slides of many striker-fired pistols can often more easily allow the unintentional introduction of liquids into the striker/firing pin channel, as well as the striker/firing pin blocks. (Even presuming the safety plunger & spring have been properly installed, but probably worse if having been improperly installed by someone unfamiliar with the proper method.)

Too many people I watch at cleaning stations seem to think (by their actions) that they should spray and saturate guns for cleaning the same way they clean the wheels of their cars & trucks, letting amazingly excessive amounts of liquids run all over the surfaces ... and into places where they can't as easily drain from and run out of again. A little bit of solvent/CLP/cleaner can go a long way, especially when it's judiciously and properly applied to patches (and small, narrow brushes covered with a damp - not saturated & dripping - patch).

Sure, it does depend on what gun and part thereof we're discussing, but I'm speaking in generalities based upon what I've seen as an instructor & armorer over the course of my career. I've simply seen more problems caused by over-zealous and improper cleaning & lubrication practices than I ever expected to see when I first became a firearms instructor, and later as an armorer.

The only part of a semiauto pistol I don't hesitate to liberally cover in cleaning agent, if necessary, is the barrel (removed from the slide, of course).

Lots of folks also seem to think that if a little lubricant is good, then more is better.

While armorers can be told that the specific recommendations for lubrication practices and cleaning regimens for their folks may need to be based on the operating environments and conditions in which the firearms are going to be deployed and used, there are always some standard manufacturer recommendations for 'average' conditions and circumstances offered in armorer manuals, as well as many owner safety manuals.

Read them. Carefully consider following them. There's nothing inherently 'genetic' in knowing how to clean and maintain a firearm, especially one used as a dedicated defensive weapon.

Also, sometimes there can be some different recommendations found among various manufacturers, so an owner/user might find him/herself using slightly different practices when cleaning, lubricating & maintaining firearms made by different companies.

For example, in Glock armorer classes the armorers are instructed to use a small amount of lubricant, some drops in various places ... while in the Sig armorer class the students are frequently reminded that Sigs are essentially "wet" guns, and the presence of lubricants should be such that it can be verified visually & by touch. Even so, it shouldn't be present in amounts that would allow it to run off under gravity or in excessive amounts.

I've always been interested, and sometimes surprised, regarding the lubrication recommendations when reading through various armorer manuals and taking the classes. What works for one manufacturer may not be something considered recommended, or at least not optimal, by another manufacturer.

Also, just having access to an armorer manual (or online instructions) may not work as well for many folks as they might wish.

I can't think of an armorer class I've yet attended (and I'm well into double digits in classes/recerts) where someone - or a few people - didn't make mistakes of one sort or another which they didn't realize and catch themselves, but which had to be corrected by an instructor or another experienced student. And that's with the people listening and watching demonstration of the skills in the course presentation (meaning instructor demonstration, often accompanied by video support), having an armorer manual and notes available to them, and with all the proper and necessary tools at their disposal.

Also, attending a single armorer class, while well & good, can often give a student just enough info and limited hands-on experience to let them become over-confident and able to make mistakes with more speed and alacrity. I found it really helped to return from my first several classes and have a much more experienced armorer available to me to watch my efforts and help me. Sort of an apprenticeship, as it were. (I later felt obligated to do this for other new and lesser experienced armorers, and still do so, as I've kept my hand in as an armorer even after my retirement.)
RC20 is offline  
Old September 16, 2012, 12:55 AM   #19
Senior Member
Join Date: September 16, 2010
Location: The worst Lancaster in the U.S.
Posts: 119
That's a great bit of info. Thank you all very much.
You guys have helped so much. Definitely going to find all the cleaning info I can that's related to my gun instead of more general cleaning if I can help it now.
BrokenBottles is offline  
Old September 16, 2012, 04:28 PM   #20
Senior Member
Join Date: July 24, 2012
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 4,075
Yeah... I put up a general cleaning guide in the "smithy" section. It covers many different cleaning philosophies.

You can find it here.

When cleaning, use a rag or patch to apply cleaner. Like was said, it should not be dripping.
marine6680 is offline  
Old September 19, 2012, 04:56 PM   #21
Senior Member
Join Date: September 16, 2010
Location: The worst Lancaster in the U.S.
Posts: 119
Just finished the first cleaning of the gun and thanks to your guys help, it was easier than changing the oil on my truck.
BrokenBottles is offline  
Old September 19, 2012, 07:27 PM   #22
Senior Member
Join Date: July 24, 2012
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 4,075
good to hear.
marine6680 is offline  
Old September 25, 2012, 09:14 PM   #23
Junior Member
Join Date: September 25, 2012
Posts: 1

Bought the 2022. Have only let about 500 rounds go through so far. Ton of fun. Big Myth is they need a ton of oil. All of my sigs are very forgiving. Great piece!
TomsRiverSigMan is offline  

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:00 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2016 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent:
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.25714 seconds with 7 queries