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March 7, 2012, 08:03 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: June 20, 2009
Posts: 1,102
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Fitting a replacement cylinder hand?
I'm replacing one on my Uberti London .36 cal.
The replacement is too long and won't cycle the cylinder aqll the way to battery. When you remove material do you remove it from the "top" of the cylinder hand lug or do you need to remove it from the face also? Any help will be greatlly appreciated! Thanks, ZVP |
March 7, 2012, 08:26 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: August 8, 2009
Posts: 374
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The top.
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March 7, 2012, 09:57 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: February 25, 2009
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Slowly!
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March 7, 2012, 11:36 AM | #4 |
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Location: Auburn, AL.
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Just lookin at mine . . .
If your hand was too long, wouldn't it cycle your cylinder to battery too soon, and lock into place, but wouldn't allow the hammer to come back to full cock? If it fully cocks and the cylinder isn't in place yet, I'd think the hand was too short.
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March 7, 2012, 01:03 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: March 19, 2008
Location: High & Dry in Missouri Ozarks
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Beagle is right. It's too short if the cylinder won't lock up at full cock, and too long if it locks up before going to full cock.
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Fingers (Show Me MO smoke) McGee - AKA Man of Many Colts - Alter ego of Diabolical Ken; SASS Regulator 28564-L-TG; Rangemaster and stage writer extraordinaire; Frontiersman, Pistoleer, NRA Endowment Life, NMLRA, SAF, CCRKBA, STORM 327, SV115; Charter member, Central Ozarks Western Shooters Cynic: A blackguard whose faulty vision see things as they are, not as they should be. Ambrose Bierce |
March 7, 2012, 01:47 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: October 24, 2008
Location: Naples, Fl
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Or if it is too long.....
The cylinder will travel past battery. The hand being too long prevents the bolt from dropping off the cam and stopping the cylinder until after the cylinder is already past top dead center.
If you do need to shape the top of the hand I have had some luck smoothing up the action by doing a little curve on the top surface of the hand. This way, the cylinder ratchet is not having to deal with a sharp edge on the hand. It doesn't take much of a curve.
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March 7, 2012, 05:40 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: June 20, 2009
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A big help!
Thanks guys!
The cylinder pushes forward and won't rotate to battery and the hammer dosen't cock, only goes about 1/2 cock. In comparing the replacement, the new hand looks about 1/64 longer but it's hard to measure due to the shape and the pin. I'll try fileing the top off slowly and see what it gets me. I am anticipating several tear-downs to try to get it right. My first real gunsmithing project... I appreciate you guys advice! ZVP |
March 7, 2012, 06:02 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: September 8, 2007
Location: Mississippi
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It's not that hard to do but it does require a few tear downs to get right.
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March 9, 2012, 02:23 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: October 8, 2011
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You can do it! I just did it myself for the first time. Was sort of intimidated by it thinking it was going to take a long time. Once I got going, I probably only tore it down 3, maybe 4 times at most. But, you do gotta go slow...little bits at a time.
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March 9, 2012, 08:23 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: December 27, 2010
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Go to http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=473430 and check out post #17. With this technique the old hand that was worn down can be reused.
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