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July 28, 2011, 10:00 PM | #1 |
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first time 44 mag reload
Well I failed on my first try. Didn't read the fine print. I've been loading 9mm and 380 for a little while now, so decided to give 44 mag a try. Pretty important to note that the dies should be backed out an extra 1.75 turns for 44 mag when using special/mag dies Didn't ruin but a few cases, try again this weekend
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July 29, 2011, 12:56 AM | #2 |
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What dies are you using? I set my hornady dies up like all my other dies except I turn the seating crimping die in just a little farther so it crimps the cases. If you are using Hornady dies don't put to much crimp on them as it will wear out that retainer clip that holds the alignment sleeve in.
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July 31, 2011, 09:16 PM | #3 |
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success but a couple of questions
Finally got time to get back in my man cave and work on my 44 mags again. I resized the cases that I had expanded too far. Reread all the instructions and pretty sure I got everything right. Oh and in response to above question, I have the Lee 4 die set.
I loaded 240g lead semi wadcutters over 8g of Unique. Read several places that this was a nice light target load. It fired well and put a nice dent in my steel target. The only thing I don't like, well maybe a couple. The lead is messy, it gets all gummy on the cases and shaves some when you push it in the case. Second, I set it to the COAL very close to what I found in a couple of books (as I remember it was 1.58). Some of my bullets would still turn in the case after crimping I tried a light crimp and pretty heavy crimp, didn't seem to matter. They were very solid in the case before crimping. I'm wondering if I have the bullet seated to the correct place, the COAL is correct. I'll try and take a picture and post.
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July 31, 2011, 09:31 PM | #4 |
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couple of pics of my reloads
suggestions?
I crimped on the top ring of the bullet. Should I crimp just below?
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July 31, 2011, 09:36 PM | #5 |
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The lead is messy, it gets all gummy on the cases and shaves some when you push it in the case.
**Wax bullet lube gets everywhere, we used to roll our .44s in a towel dampened with lighter fluid. **Shaved lead is a sign of inadequate case mouth flare or chamfer. Second, I set it to the COAL very close to what I found in a couple of books (as I remember it was 1.58). Some of my bullets would still turn in the case after crimping I tried a light crimp and pretty heavy crimp, didn't seem to matter. They were very solid in the case before crimping. I'm wondering if I have the bullet seated to the correct place, the COAL is correct. **A bullet snug in the case before crimp and loose after is a sign of so much crimp as to buckle the brass away from the bullet. **COAL out of a book for a revolver round means absolutely nothing unless the author of the book used the EXACT SAME bullet. Crimp into the groove provided for the purpose, not into the front band. |
July 31, 2011, 09:45 PM | #6 |
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which place to crimp
Thanks Jim. Looking at my picture, can you describe where I chould seat/crimp? Is it right below the top band or way down on bullet where it looks like maybe a cannelure? If it's the ring down at the base, there sure won't be much bullet inside the case.
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August 1, 2011, 08:16 AM | #7 |
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If you need or want to seat the bullets that deeply, then a taper crimp might work ok.
But, as Mr. Watson says, using a roll crimp into the correct place on the bullet is best. It's below the top band, into the cannelure that's made for the roll crimp, just a smidgen below where you have it, in the picture.
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August 1, 2011, 10:23 AM | #8 |
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Those appear to be Speer SWC bullets. If so, it's probably worth pointing out that you shouldn't push them very fast since they're very soft and there's not much lube there. Your charge of 8 grains of Unique is about the limit I'd be willing to go. Cast lead bullets are different from what you have there and can usually be pushed to full magnum velocities.
That said, one thing I notice in your photos is that you appear to be shaving some lead during seating/crimping. Notice the lead that's been pushed up by the case mouth. You might want to try backing off the amount of crimp and see if it helps. |
August 1, 2011, 07:52 PM | #9 |
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I agree with others. You’re seating to deep. That first grove below the top of the bullet has a nice curve to it. You should roll your crimp into that.
You need to bell your cases just enough to start the bullet. A good way to set your dies is to set the die high in the press and just seat the bullet until the top of the case is in line with the center of that curved grove of the bullet. Then pull the seater as high as you can and then crimp the case. When you have it set, then rase the loaded case back into the die and slowly lower the seater till it makes good contact with the bullet. That will get you very close. For lead I use the following bullet from Penn. I get the hard bullets he produces and have pushed them out of a 44 mag rifle over 1500 FPS using H110 with little leading. http://www.pennbullets.com/44/44200rnfpbb.html |
August 1, 2011, 08:46 PM | #10 |
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Like jim said, crimp in the groove not the band.
I had a bunch of 240 plated raniers (had to use FCD/not roll crimp) i crimped at 1 round on FCD. Measured the last round loaded in my RH at 1.612 COL, after i fired the first 5 i remeasured, it was 1.628, recoil in a hand-cannon can cause problems. Went back and re crimped all of em at 2 rounds.
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August 1, 2011, 09:01 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
I have a Lee 4 die set in .38 special/.357mag, and the factory crimp die puts a nice looking roll crimp on. Like others have said, ignore the OAL and seat the bullet a little higher so that your crimp "rolls" into the grove just under the band you tried crimping on. |
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