The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Hide > The Art of the Rifle: General

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old June 1, 2010, 08:06 AM   #1
Join Date: May 25, 2010
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 82
Marlin 795 trigger job

I have tried the search function, but I didn't find what I was looking for. (computer challenged).

QUESTION: Is there any good/current info on reducing the trigger pull on the Marlin 795 auto-loader 22lr?? I have little or no experience in modifying weapons so rest assured, I will digest the info to see if it is over my head. If so, I'll be finding a good g-smith to do the work.

Rifle Basix doesn't work on auto-loaders to my knowlege.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.... Shoes
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government." Thomas Jefferson
Shoes is offline  
Old June 1, 2010, 12:38 PM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: March 18, 2009
Location: Temple, TX
Posts: 644
I hate to suggest other forums because, hands down, the firing line, the staff and moderators, the users here, and the depth of knowledge are the best! Plus, the firing line should always be first in your heart. However for something this specialized, you may want to try They have a subsection on the marlin 60, and if you join, you can use the "search" feature.
hammie is offline  
Old June 1, 2010, 01:00 PM   #3
Junior member
Join Date: September 28, 2005
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 6,465
When you break down the rifle, you end up with a few components:
1. Stock
2. Trigger group (literally a plastic trigger, a pin retaining it, and a return spring coiled around the pin)
3. Hammer/sear assembly (the complicated guts)
4. Bolt assembly
5. Receiver and barrel

The biggest tuning benefits come from two assemblies: The hammer/sear assembly, and the trigger group. The hammer/sear assembly is complicated, so we'll leave it alone.

The trigger group is a bone-dumb simple mechanism. Let's do what we can with that.

First task: The trigger link. The curved surface of the trigger where your finger touches is fine, let's leave that alone. But the part of the trigger that reaches up into the guts and pushes on the sear is usually too short on the forward face of it. This introduces trigger creep.

Get some JB Weld. Mix up a glob of it about the size of a pea. Build up the front top surface of the trigger link with JB Weld (the part of it that pushes the sear forward when you pull the trigger). Don't worry about putting too much on. Let it dry for 2 days. Don't put it back together too early: If you "try out" the built up material before it fully hardens, you'll compress it and lose the benefit of it.

Once it fully hardens, assemble the rifle. Dry fire it. Hopefully there is too much material on the trigger link, and the sear won't reset. That's actually good. If there isn't enough material to interfere with the sear, disassemble and add more JB Weld. Wait 2 days.

Sand/file down the JB Weld material slowly, checking for fit/function as you go. Your goal is zero trigger "flop" down on the trigger surface, with the sear just barely able to reset.

Second task: A trigger overtravel set screw. When you pull a trigger and it breaks the sear, the trigger doesn't need to come back any further. If it does, it can throw your shot off slightly. The 795 has too much trigger overtravel after the sear breaks. Get a fine-threaded machine screw. Match the diameter of the screw to a drill-bit you have. Drill the trigger guard behind the trigger. If you were to look at the trigger group from the right side, you'd want to drill at about 7 or 8 o'clock on the trigger group. Screw the screw into this hole so that it would impede the trigger from coming back all the way through its arc of travel.

To tune the set screw, assemble the rifle (you'll want to do this AFTER you've let the JB Weld cure and you've tuned the length of the trigger link). Rack the bolt, and drive the screw in all the way. Pull the trigger. It should prevent the trigger from breaking the sear. Back the screw out slowly, until it's just barely enough for the sear to break. Then go another 1/2 or 1 full turn. This is because the JB Weld will compress a little bit even if you let it cure completely.

Third task: The trigger return spring. This yields the least results out of everything, but it's a cheap and easy mod to do. Take your naked trigger group and drive out the pivot pin. There will be a spring coiled around it, that presses on the forward portion of the trigger guard frame and the upper leg of the trigger lever. Set this spring aside.

Grab a 3.5" floppy disk. Tear it apart. Take the shutter spring from it. This is a much lighter spring than the factory trigger reset spring. It still has enough force to do the job, though. The spring may take some creative shaping to get it to conform to the shape as the original spring. Reassemble.

Those three things should make your trigger into a whole new creature. Doesn't do anything for the actual weight of the sear break, but it eliminates creep and pulls a few ounces off the total pull with the floppy shutter spring replacement, while also eliminating overtravel with the new set-screw.
azredhawk44 is offline  
Old June 2, 2010, 06:29 AM   #4
Join Date: May 25, 2010
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 82
Thanks for the response guys.

AZ - I might be out ver my skis on this one. I'll try to find a local "smith and see if he can help.
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government." Thomas Jefferson
Shoes is offline  

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:15 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2017 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent:
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.06381 seconds with 7 queries