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Old November 28, 2008, 01:42 PM   #1
Join Date: November 21, 2008
Location: Nashville GA
Posts: 16
Problems with Remington Woodmaster Model 742 .30-06

My dad owns a semi auto 30-06, it is acurate but when it is fired the action jerks the rim off the cartridge; the gun is now jammed. What can I do to prevent this from happening? It don't take into concideration what kind of ammo that is in it; it just jerks off the rim in one spot. Got any suggestions or answers; let me know!
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Old November 28, 2008, 02:00 PM   #2
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Join Date: October 28, 2006
Location: South Central Michigan...near Ohio, Indiana.
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Rem. 742

Remington 742 are will known for this problem. I have a brother who asked me the same question. I asked him to show me a fired case, which he did. There it was...the tell-tale sign on the brass, small little indentations on the body of the case. I told him what I am going to tell you know, these little indentations are caused by burnt, and unburnt gun powder left in the chamber after firing. They cause the case to stick in the chamber instead of being extracted. The extractor is pulled back and rips the rim off the case.
The fix: Clean after shooting. If you are going to shoot a lot of rounds at one time, run a chamber brush into the chamber after every 6-7 rounds.
Having to clean the chamber so often is no handicap for a sporting rifle...would be a nightmare of the 742 were a military rifle. Boy, I wish I had a dollar for how many times this question has been asked about the 742 over the years I have been following the sport!
Note: I would not sell my 742 over this tendency, I would just clean it frequently.
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Old November 28, 2008, 03:19 PM   #3
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I see this problem quite often in the Remmy autos. It could be powder fouling as Dahermit stated but most often in my case it's a badly pitted chamber. The brass expands during firing and swells into these pits and locks the casing into the chamber. The result is the ripped off case rim that you see. What I've been doing in this case is taking a flex hone that's just a little bigger than the chamber(in your case a .45 cal. cylinder hone) and honing the chamber lightly......stress lightly here, much like I would a shotgun chamber. It's a hit or miss thing. According to the amount and depth of pitting in the chamber, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

But maybe in your case it isn't pitting. The stuck casings are generally easy to get out once they have cooled. You should be able to take a cleaning rod and stick down the barrel and a light tap usually clears it.
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Old November 28, 2008, 06:46 PM   #4
Join Date: November 21, 2008
Location: Nashville GA
Posts: 16

I would never have thought about either one of the explenations that I received. The local "gun smith" said it was cheap cartridges. Thanks again for the info.
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Old November 28, 2008, 08:19 PM   #5
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Location: Sunny Florida
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Chamber Cleaning

The local prison used these for tower guns. The design made it hard to clean the chamber. The prison ended up selling them all as surplus and there are tons of them around my area. I get a couple a year with exactly those symptoms and all it ever is is a funky, dirty chamber from being poorly or improperly cleaned.
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Old November 28, 2008, 09:00 PM   #6
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Location: Maine
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The Remington semi-autos suffer from rusty chambers due to the need to clean from the muzzle end. Chambers get dried out from firing and most people use a brush and patches from the muzzle, but don't adequately clean and lube the chamber. The resulting dry chamber rusts badly, especially when the rifle is stored in a damp location, like a basement.

I've de-rusted several relatively new 742's over the years and they were found to be severely chamber-rusted.

The prevention is to clean the chamber with the special chamber brush and patch holder...immediately after coming home from the range or shooting at game. It can ruin a fine rifle in less than 30 days.

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Old November 29, 2008, 06:13 AM   #7
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Join Date: May 1, 2008
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Remington 742 Takedown

Can Anyone Give Me The Disassembly Instructions For A Remington 742? I Need To Remove The Bolt To Repair.a Pin Has Come Out Of Bolt And It Doesn't Rotate When It Goes Forward To Lock Up. Thanks. My Email Is [email protected]
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Old November 29, 2008, 09:34 AM   #8
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Join Date: June 11, 2008
Location: S.Georgia
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Remove forearm.

Knock out pin at gas port.

Remove action spring guide and action spring.

Remove barrel nut. There is a special wrench for this but I have used an adjustable or vice grips in a pinch.

Remove barrel. Pulls right out when barrel nut is removed.

Remove charging handle pin. This pin is located just behind the charging handle. If you turn the gun upside down and look through the magazine well at the bottom of the bolt, you will see the pin. It goes through the bolt and holds the charging handle in place. I've found it easier to knock out from the topside which sometimes means removal of the scope. It is usually pretty tight and can be a buggar to get out.

Once the pin is removed the charging handle will pull out and the bolt/action bar can be removed from the action.

Hope this helps and good luck....
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Old December 1, 2008, 07:43 PM   #9
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Two things to remember with the 742; keep the chamber CLEAN! and use ammo with a medium burn rate powder if using handloads. Nothing faster than IMR 3031, and nothing slower than H414. Stick with 150s for deer, and 165s or 180s for serious game that scratches, bites, stomps and gores. If the chamber is pitted, some JUDICIOUS use of Flitz and a slow drill speed will help. The best chamber brush is a 45 cal with a twisted wire handle; it can be bent to fit the action and clean the neck area too. If all else fails, try some nickel plated cases and see if they extract better.
If you want your children to follow in your footsteps, be careful where you walk.
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Old December 1, 2008, 07:52 PM   #10
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IMR 4895 powder work great in the 742 in 308 or 3006

Last edited by jbrown; December 1, 2008 at 07:52 PM. Reason: spelling error
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