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Old November 21, 1999, 01:16 AM   #1
Senior Member
Join Date: February 10, 1999
Location: Placentia,CA,USA
Posts: 143
I bought one a couple of months ago and it had terrible triggers and action so I considered the options: use it for 5-10 years until it smooths up, pay $125 for an action job, mess with it myself. I chose the last option. I did the following:
* Applied 600 grit Clover compound to the
friction points and worked the action for
a half hour off and on.
* Removed the main spring and took off a turn, then did it again for another 1/2 turn. Still a little heavy, but I'll go with extra lockup rather than too light.
* Stessed the sear springs to lighten them.
Honed the sear surfaces. Got the horrible
12# pull on the front and the not too bad rear trigger down to 4#.
* The chambers looked like they were plowed
rather than machined. I started with 320
wet/dry, but am hestitant to take all of the machining marks out of the left bbl as it was the worse that I have seen. Any
need to worry about the marks, or should I bring up the shine with some finer
stuff as they are? I talked to a tech at
their headquarters and he says send it back and they will look at, but if I can
get the hulls to drop I won't worry about it.
The tech said that using the Clover 600 increases the tolerances a lot, but when I was taking some smithing classes we talked about how 600 or finer won't remove much metal at all. Did I do the wrong thing?
I could use a reference for a good book on working on the Marlin lever if you would be so kind, Thanks, Jim
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Old November 21, 1999, 08:31 AM   #2
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
Join Date: October 12, 1998
Location: Earlington KY
Posts: 2,299
Jim, you might just take the shotgun to a smith for a trigger job. I did a Model 24 Winchester recently for a feller. Polishing the chambers won't hurt as long as your very careful about the chamber dimensions. Get it shiny without removing any metal and that should cure any extraction problems. I don't really know of a book on the Marlin lever actions. Marlin Firearms by Brophy is more history than technical. I can't think of anywhere I've seen anymore than just assembly/disassembly on the gun. To slick it up just disassembly and look for burrs on the internal parts. Polish any you find plus any parts that rub or come into contact with others. The trigger work is again best left to a smith. A safe 3 to 3-1/2# trigger is usually attainable on these rifles. If you don't have anyone near you to do the trigger work you can e-mail me if you like. George
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