February 19, 2010, 01:07 AM | #1 |
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Too much deburr?
How hard should it be to put primers in with a hand priming tool? These primers slid in almost too easy, did I chamferthem too much?
http://www.physikal.com/download/reloading/DSC_3501.JPG http://www.physikal.com/download/reloading/DSC_3504.JPG Last edited by physikal; February 19, 2010 at 01:15 AM. |
February 19, 2010, 01:29 AM | #2 |
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Tough to say, since we can't really compare resistance levels between people with a hand priming tool. I use an RCBS hand primer, and there is typically "some" resistance/feel when seating a primer.
Your close up picture "DSC 3501" does seem to show more bevel in the primer pocket than necessary, but may be a product of lighting or camera angle. If you felt zero resistance when seating the primer, you probably went too far. |
February 19, 2010, 03:11 AM | #3 |
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I will assume this brass was fired once with a factory military load,then had the primer pocket chamfered.
The point there,hot loads can loosen a pocket,but that is unlikely with once fired military. Try priming some once fired or new commercial brass for feel with your priming tool.If it is way different,you may have a problem. The Dillon swage tool is probably a good way to go.I have heard a VLD casechamfering tool(lyman) is pretty good for crimps in low volume. If you get gas leakage past your primer,it will cut/erode your bolt face very quickly. |
February 19, 2010, 05:23 AM | #4 |
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It looks to me like you chamfered too much. You just barely want to chamfer them so the primer will go in.
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February 19, 2010, 05:51 AM | #5 |
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Must be a running trend between us. I am also in the middle of processing a large batch of surplus case.
After the deprime, I used the RCBS swedgeing tool. The sset up is somewhat touchy as you can overload the pin which holds the case down on the button when you raise the ram. Bottom line is that after running several hundred through, I found that hardly any had any sort of rim left that needed reaming. They were inspected using a pretty powerful magnifying glass, and verified by pulling a random lot of 50 to be primed. Once upon a time, years ago we simply used the deburing tool to do some with limited success. Some would get done just right, some too much, some not enough. Ended up grinding a small flat blade screw driver to fit a factory pocket, and used it for a few years as a reaming tool. All your needing to remove is a very slight rim around the pocket, much more and you will end up with looser fitting primers. If you have a good glass look at some that were simply deprimed and you will see what I am referring to. Once the lip is removed the primers should seat normally. |
February 19, 2010, 05:56 AM | #6 |
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A dedicated decrimping tool should only remove the slight military crimp. From your photos is seems that you used a burr removal tool used for removing burrs from the case mouth.
Compare the primer pocket on non-military cases to your cases to see what a correct primer pockets looks like. |
February 19, 2010, 07:14 AM | #7 |
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The real question is do you get gas leaks firing the ammo? If not, you're OK. The larger chamfer will make it easier for a primer to mushroom, so you may get that pressure sign earlier than normal. If you shoot hot loads, your primer pockets will get truly loose earlier.
The L.E. Wilson primer pocket profile cutter makes a pretty big, rounded chamfer. Primers do go in more easily than normal after using it, but they work fine.
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