Another Newbie

babedog · June 6, 2009, 07:11 PM

Getting back into reloading---first time for rifle though. I have a Dillon- RL 550B, is it stong enough for reforming brass ? Also, are different Mfg's of brass better than others--what do you guys consider the best ? Same with primers is one Mfg. better than another ? Is Lake City good brass ?

Recently got a Kimber 84 m Classic NRA in .338 Federal and everything I've been able to read says to reform .308 brass and your set---more to it than that ?

What about dies--whose are the best--Redding, RCBS,Lyman,Lee,Dillon ? Which ones should I avoid ?

I'm also new to the firing line and really appreciate the comments on all the threads, thanks to all of you for sharing your knowledge and experiences.

Dingoboyx · June 6, 2009, 07:45 PM

I guess you mean resizing? Yes the dillon should be strong enough to be able able to resize brass fine.

I have used and like rcbs & lee dies, just make sure you get carbide dies as they last & keep their tollerances better than just steel dies. Keep the dies clean and lightly oiled to stop gunk build up and rust.... I clean my dies with a pistol brush rod and wads (like cleaning a barrel). Use case lube on rifle brass, pistol (straight cases) I dont bother with case lube, just clean carbide dies.

I reccomend a factory crimp die for a good tight final crimp

Welcome to TFL

Stick_man · June 6, 2009, 08:12 PM

Babedog, first off, welcome to the forum. And welcome back into the wonderful world of reloading. I have never taken the .308 up to the .338Fed, but have taken them the other way, down to making the .243 and even the .22-250. If I read your post correctly, you are asking about necking the brass up to fit the larger bullet. The Dillon presses work fine for reloading all kinds of rounds, but I think I would go with a good sturdy single stage press for handling the additional pressures of changing the caliber of brass. The military brass is usually a little thicker than commercial and might be a good choice for necking up to the .338Fed. After stretching the brass out for the larger diameter bullets, the mil brass might be just what you are after.

Unfortunately, I don't believe carbide dies are available in rifle calibers due to the hardness of the carbide. They are great for straight walled cases like most handgun calibers, but the bottle-neck cases common to rifles are much more difficult to make carbide dies for. You are likely stuck with some good old steel dies for the caliber change. I have always liked RCBS dies for reloading.

Good luck with it. I have heard good things about the 338Federal.

babedog · June 6, 2009, 11:34 PM

Thank you Gentleman---I'm going to be reloading .22-250, .243. .270, 7mm mag and the .338 Federal. Don't mean to open a can of worms but are there better primers and powders to use than others ? I'm primarily looking at the new Lyman 49th. Edition Loading Handbook. I want to be as accurate as possible but don't really want a warehouse of powders & primers either. Is that possible? Had any experience with the 4831 short cut ?

Thanks again,
Steve

Knowledge not shared is energy wasted !

Shoney · June 7, 2009, 01:27 AM

It is almost certain that each of your weapons will have a preference for bullets, powders, primers, and sometimes brass. There is only one way to find out, and that is to select a weapon, bullet, powder, primer and case, then work up an acccuracy load. Then work up loads with other components til you find an acceptable load. It is usually best to change only one component at a time. Usually powders first,primers second.

Many of the 22 caliber cartridges I have loaded will get better groups with a their favorit brand of primer. Others get best results with different powders, and there are some brands of bullets that simply will not shoot well.

Bottom line, you can get luckly at times, but there is no free lunch when it comes to getting 1/4" groups.

Dannyl · June 7, 2009, 10:19 AM

Hi, and welcome

Regarding the Dillon Press, I am sure it is more than strong enough.

Primers, I use CCI and Winchester, and find no difference in accuracy between them. ( I use them with a 30-06), I get 0.6 MOA groups at 100 M regardless of which primer I use.

Regards,
Danny

babedog · June 7, 2009, 11:34 AM

Thanks to all for the help and Information and for the welcome to TFL. I look forward to more good times here. No free lunch on MOA groups sounds correct. I'll start small and work my way up.

Thanks again to all,

Steve

June 6, 2009, 07:11 PM	#1
babedog Junior Member Join Date: June 6, 2009 Location: Clinton, Iowa Posts: 6	Another Newbie Getting back into reloading---first time for rifle though. I have a Dillon- RL 550B, is it stong enough for reforming brass ? Also, are different Mfg's of brass better than others--what do you guys consider the best ? Same with primers is one Mfg. better than another ? Is Lake City good brass ? Recently got a Kimber 84 m Classic NRA in .338 Federal and everything I've been able to read says to reform .308 brass and your set---more to it than that ? What about dies--whose are the best--Redding, RCBS,Lyman,Lee,Dillon ? Which ones should I avoid ? I'm also new to the firing line and really appreciate the comments on all the threads, thanks to all of you for sharing your knowledge and experiences.

June 6, 2009, 07:45 PM	#2
Dingoboyx Senior Member Join Date: March 7, 2009 Location: South East Queensland, Australia Posts: 1,513	By reforming.... I guess you mean resizing? Yes the dillon should be strong enough to be able able to resize brass fine. I have used and like rcbs & lee dies, just make sure you get carbide dies as they last & keep their tollerances better than just steel dies. Keep the dies clean and lightly oiled to stop gunk build up and rust.... I clean my dies with a pistol brush rod and wads (like cleaning a barrel). Use case lube on rifle brass, pistol (straight cases) I dont bother with case lube, just clean carbide dies. I reccomend a factory crimp die for a good tight final crimp Welcome to TFL __________________ Muzza If you cant blind them with brilliance, Baffle them with BS Be alert...... there is a shortage of LERTs

June 6, 2009, 08:12 PM	#3
Stick_man Senior Member Join Date: October 18, 2008 Location: Salt Lake City, Utah Posts: 241	reforming brass Babedog, first off, welcome to the forum. And welcome back into the wonderful world of reloading. I have never taken the .308 up to the .338Fed, but have taken them the other way, down to making the .243 and even the .22-250. If I read your post correctly, you are asking about necking the brass up to fit the larger bullet. The Dillon presses work fine for reloading all kinds of rounds, but I think I would go with a good sturdy single stage press for handling the additional pressures of changing the caliber of brass. The military brass is usually a little thicker than commercial and might be a good choice for necking up to the .338Fed. After stretching the brass out for the larger diameter bullets, the mil brass might be just what you are after. Unfortunately, I don't believe carbide dies are available in rifle calibers due to the hardness of the carbide. They are great for straight walled cases like most handgun calibers, but the bottle-neck cases common to rifles are much more difficult to make carbide dies for. You are likely stuck with some good old steel dies for the caliber change. I have always liked RCBS dies for reloading. Good luck with it. I have heard good things about the 338Federal.

June 6, 2009, 11:34 PM	#4
babedog Junior Member Join Date: June 6, 2009 Location: Clinton, Iowa Posts: 6	Another Newbie Thank you Gentleman---I'm going to be reloading .22-250, .243. .270, 7mm mag and the .338 Federal. Don't mean to open a can of worms but are there better primers and powders to use than others ? I'm primarily looking at the new Lyman 49th. Edition Loading Handbook. I want to be as accurate as possible but don't really want a warehouse of powders & primers either. Is that possible? Had any experience with the 4831 short cut ? Thanks again, Steve Knowledge not shared is energy wasted !

June 7, 2009, 01:27 AM	#5
Shoney Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2002 Location: Transplanted from Montana Posts: 2,311	It is almost certain that each of your weapons will have a preference for bullets, powders, primers, and sometimes brass. There is only one way to find out, and that is to select a weapon, bullet, powder, primer and case, then work up an acccuracy load. Then work up loads with other components til you find an acceptable load. It is usually best to change only one component at a time. Usually powders first,primers second. Many of the 22 caliber cartridges I have loaded will get better groups with a their favorit brand of primer. Others get best results with different powders, and there are some brands of bullets that simply will not shoot well. Bottom line, you can get luckly at times, but there is no free lunch when it comes to getting 1/4" groups. __________________ I pledge allegiance to the Flag - - -, and to the Republic for which it stands….Our Forefathers were brilliant for giving us a Republic, not a democracy! Do you know the difference??? and WHY?http://www.wallbuilders.com/LIBissue...les.asp?id=111

June 7, 2009, 10:19 AM	#6
Dannyl Senior Member Join Date: April 20, 2009 Location: Cape Town - South Africa Posts: 627	Welcome Hi, and welcome Regarding the Dillon Press, I am sure it is more than strong enough. Primers, I use CCI and Winchester, and find no difference in accuracy between them. ( I use them with a 30-06), I get 0.6 MOA groups at 100 M regardless of which primer I use. Regards, Danny

June 7, 2009, 11:34 AM	#7
babedog Junior Member Join Date: June 6, 2009 Location: Clinton, Iowa Posts: 6	Thanks to all for the help and Information and for the welcome to TFL. I look forward to more good times here. No free lunch on MOA groups sounds correct. I'll start small and work my way up. Thanks again to all, Steve