Trigger reset woes for first time revolver owner

pgb205 · March 23, 2017, 09:54 PM

Got my first revolver. Took it to the range. No problem firing and hitting the target. except that maybe once every cylinder when I pull trigger back I get a click and no bang. Looking around the Internet, the revolvers don't have a trigger reset. I have to let go of the trigger all the ways back before I can fire again in DA. That would be disappointing in its own right but understandable. However, what happens is that cylinder spins and I lose a round until it rotates all the way back to the barrel. A few times I somehow managed to get two two fails in a row, but I'm not sure what I could be doing to cause that.
Is this normal, preventable on SW revolvers? At least I would like to not 'lose' a perfectly usable round due to a short-stroke.

Driftwood Johnson · March 23, 2017, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Got my first revolver. Took it to the range. No problem firing and hitting the target. except that maybe once every cylinder when I pull trigger back I get a click and no bang. Looking around the Internet, the revolvers don't have a trigger reset. I have to let go of the trigger all the ways back before I can fire again in DA. That would be disappointing in its own right but understandable. However, what happens is that cylinder spins and I lose a round until it rotates all the way back to the barrel. A few times I somehow managed to get two two fails in a row, but I'm not sure what I could be doing to cause that.
Is this normal, preventable on SW revolvers? At least I would like to not 'lose' a perfectly usable round due to a short-stroke.

Howdy, grasshopper, and welcome to the wonderful world of revolvers.

Yes, this is completely normal, there is nothing wrong with your revolver, you are just not used to shooting it yet.

Yes, there is a trigger reset. It is your trigger finger. Let's take a look inside a typical S&W revolver and I will explain what is happening.

When you pull the trigger of a revolver in double action mode, a whole lot of things are happening all at once inside the gun. The hand, or pawl is the shiny vertical piece. It pivots on the trigger, and when you pull the trigger, the hand rises, pushing the cylinder around. At the same time, a tab at the front of the trigger pulls down the piece in front of it, called the bolt, or cylinder stop. So as the trigger is pushing the hand up, it is also withdrawing the bolt into the frame, allowing the cylinder to rotate. The third thing that happens is the rear end of the trigger, pointed to by the bottom arrow, hooks under the double action sear, pointed to by the top arrow, forcing the hammer back. When the trigger has been pulled far enough, the rear end of the trigger slips past the double action sear. That allows the hammer to fall.

There is actually more stuff than that going on as you pull the trigger, but that is what concerns us here.

What is happening in your case is you are not allowing the trigger to return quite all the way forward. Normally, as you release the trigger, that tab at the rear of the trigger pivots the double action sear back into the hammer. This allows the trigger to go all the way forward, and as the trigger reaches its final resting point, the double action sear pops forward again ready to repeat the cycle. In your case you are stopping the trigger just short of its final position. It has not quite cleared the double action sear and the sear has not popped forward yet. So when you pull the trigger again, the hand goes up and bolt retracts, allowing the cylinder to rotate, but the rear end of the trigger is not under the double action sear, it is in front of the double action sear. So it slides past the double action sear and the hammer does not move back, but the cylinder rotates.

I assume from your comments, you are used to semi-automatic pistols. The mechanism in a double action revolver is much more complicated than a semi-auto, and they are very finely tuned. Everything has to function just right, or the gun will not operate properly. S&W double action revolvers have been working exactly as I explained since 1905. All you have to do is get used to allowing the trigger to return all the way forward, and the problem will go away.

Sorry for the grasshopper remark, I just could not resist.

AzShooter · March 24, 2017, 02:17 AM

DJ gave the best description of what's going on and what your problem is. Make sure you let the trigger go all the way forward after your shot and you will be fine. Happens when you are trying to go fast I'll bet.

MrBorland · March 24, 2017, 06:27 AM

Wait a sec - you got a "click" but no bang? Meaning the hammer rose and fell? That's a different issue than reset.

Master Blaster · March 24, 2017, 07:30 AM

Did you buy the gun used?

Does the gun have a light Double action trigger?

It may not be resetting due to the previous owner replacing the rebound spring with a too light version or clipping too many of the coils on that spring. There is a balance between the mainspring and the rebound spring, some times the rebound spring is lightened too much resulting in a sluggish reset of the trigger.

So you may need a heavier/ new rebound spring.

MrBorland · March 24, 2017, 07:42 AM

The question remains - does the hammer lift when the DA trigger is pulled? If so, the reset's fine. The OP seemed to decide for themselves the issue was the reset, but that might not be the issue at all.

Carmady · March 24, 2017, 07:51 AM

About the click with no bang...was there a dent in the primer of an unfired round afterwards? If yes, that might be from a weak hammer strike instead of an improper reset.

Driftwood Johnson · March 24, 2017, 07:54 AM

Howdy Again

The OP stated in his post that revolvers do not have a trigger reset.

So I assumed he was not allowing the trigger to go far forward enough.

If the hammer did not operate but the cylinder spun, there would be a click as the bolt popped up and stopped the cylinder from spinning. If the trigger is pulled rapidly and the trigger has not reset, the click will turn into a clunk. Doing it right now with a Model 686. Any S&W revolver will do this if the trigger has not been allowed to reset. The OP needs to be sure if the hammer is functioning normally when he gets a misfire. If the hammer is functioning properly it could be any number of things, including hammer strain screw backed out too much, light rebound slide spring, and faulty ammunition.

But my money is on the OP not allowing the trigger to complete the cycle.

buck460XVR · March 24, 2017, 08:10 AM

Not ever having any fully auto firearms, I have yet to have any firearm, that properly functioned, that did not need the trigger to be allowed forward in order to reset for another shot(other than the old .22 pump and model 97 shotguns I own that will slam-fire). Some firearms have to be allowed a longer travel before they reset tho and is just a case of proper technique.

pgb205 · March 24, 2017, 01:53 PM

There are no marks on the primer and the gun is brand new from factory.

I can hear three separate clicks when returning the trigger to start position
First click on the way forward. If i try to pull back at this point I can not. the action is completely lockedup
I keep moving trigger forward and hear softer click. If I try to pull back at this point hammer rises by just a fraction of an inch and falls back. and I hear thumping sound as cylinder rotates. The shot doesnt go off.
If I keep moving trigger forward eventually I hear third click, this one is the softest. At this point if I pull back hammer fully rises and the shot goes off.

Slopemeno · March 24, 2017, 01:55 PM

You're short-cycling it. I can do it deliberately with my Security Six.

pgb205 · March 24, 2017, 01:57 PM

Another thing I've noticed in all of this is. Lets say shot is fired and I SLOOOWLY allow the trigger to return to the starting position.
Sometimes if I do it just 'right' I get first click (where the action is locked) and second click, but sometimes I don't get the third click (right before the trigger is fully returned to front). So at this point the trigger is fully back to front positoin, but I would still get misfire and cylinder rotation when trying to fire again.

This issue only happens with slow return of the trigger. I am unable to replicate when just letting go off the trigger after having fired a shot.

pgb205 · March 24, 2017, 02:21 PM

Ok. probably easiest just to do the video :-)
https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArEuupj3suIQjXbHZvUtTank_6dR

First two pulls are full pulls and releases The gun fires just fine.

After second shot I slowly release the trigger. You can see
that after first click I can't pull the trigger back. I keep releasing
until I hear second click. I pull back and get clunk and hammer doesn't rise but cylinder rotates.
Now the trigger is fully depressed (after the clunk) and I again slowly release. First click, then second. I don't hear the third. I'm pulling back and another clunk.

Then I release the trigger and hear all 3 clicks and now I fire off two more shots with no problems.

Carmady · March 24, 2017, 02:32 PM

S&W customer service: 1-800-331-0852

I'd call that number and describe the problem, and ask for a return shipping label. They'll likely fix it for free.

turkeestalker · March 24, 2017, 02:41 PM

What Carmady said... but...

Quote:

This issue only happens with slow return of the trigger. I am unable to replicate when just letting go off the trigger after having fired a shot.

That in itself may be a part of the problem. How many times have you watched someone slowly close the action on a semi auto firearm, rifle or pistol, only to have it not function as it should? Or done the same yourself?

Maybe I'm nutty, but I know that I own several firearms that simply do not care for being handled with kit gloves, they want to run. If you operate them slowly or gingerly, they simply won't function as intended.

Just a thought.

fastbolt · March 24, 2017, 02:46 PM

Double action revolver triggers aren't intended to be released slowly to some "reset" point. They aren't mechanically the same as semiauto pistols.

DA revolver triggers are designed to be allowed to briskly, fully recover forward after being pulled.

If you try to slowly release and "stage" the forward recovery of a DA revolver trigger, thinking to try and hold it at some "reset" point, you can easily interfere with the proper intended functioning of the mechanism. You create a situation where the mechanism can't do what it was designed to do, in the manner it was designed to do it.

You can cause the problems your video illustrates by improperly functioning a DA revolver trigger.

If you're new to DA revolvers, perhaps it might be beneficial to find an instructor at a local range and ask for some help in the basic understanding, handling and usage of your nice revolver. It might make it a lot safer and much less frustrating to know how it ought to be operated.

At least ask an experienced revolver shooter to try your revolver, so you can observe and learn proper trigger use and revolver functioning.

It's possible you might have had some unrealistic expectations of how a revolver operates when deciding to buy one, and upon learning how a DA revolver trigger is designed to operate, it might not meet those uninformed expectations.

On the positive side, though, learning to properly use a DA revolver can often make it much easier, by comparison, to shoot many common pistols, and that can help make you a better pistol shooter.

MrBorland · March 24, 2017, 02:55 PM

The first click is the hand slipping to the next position on the ratchet at the back of the cylinder. The hand pushes the cylinder's rotation when the trigger's pulled. At this point, though, the front of the trigger hasn't slipped past the bolt, so it can't disengage it when pulled. This is why the action seems locked at this point.

The next click is the re-engagement of the trigger with the bolt. But the trigger hasn't yet enaged the seat on the hammer, so pulling the trigger here rotates the cylinder without lifting the hammer.

The last click is the engagement with sear. It happens nearly at the end of trigger return travel. If it's sluggish to engage when you slowly and fully reset the innards might need a good cleaning and lubing, of the sear may be a wee bit too long. Also check the weights of the DA and SA triggers - if the SA is too light relative to the DA (less than 40ish%), the rebound spring may need to be replaced.

MrBorland · March 24, 2017, 03:06 PM

The trigger on a properly-functioning (and correctly-sprung) revolver should fully reset no matter how slowly or quickly the trigger is returned. You DO have to let it fully return, however, and a bad habit many revolver shooters unknowingly have is to ride the trigger forward, i.e. let the trigger push their finger forward, which can lead to short-stroking if the action's been lightened or in need of cleaning & lubing.

wpsdlrg · March 24, 2017, 04:00 PM

Well, we have our answer. The OP is clearly describing "short stroking" the trigger.... and in fact, admits it.

So, the only answer to be given is : don't do that. This is a training issue, plain and simple. Operator error, put another way. The OP simply has to train himself to NOT rush the shot. Nothing else to be done. DA Revolvers work the way they work....nothing to be "fixed".

So (to the OP) : Slow down to speed up. Focus on that one issue...and you'll get there. You'll be surprised how rapidly you will be able to put aimed fire on your target, once trained. Actually not much slower than with a semi-auto, though everybody likes to think so. The important bit is ACCURACY, anyway.

Driftwood Johnson · March 24, 2017, 04:15 PM

Howdy

There is nothing wrong with your revolver. If you send it back to S&W they will tell you the same thing.

I watched your video. The situation is exactly what I told you in my lengthy description. When you feel the gun all jammed up, the bolt has not withdrawn from the cylinder and it is preventing the cylinder from rotating as the hand tries to rotate it. The situation where you simply have the cylinder rotating without the hammer moving back is because, as I said earlier, the rear tab on the trigger, the lower arrow in my photo, has not moved down enough to allow the double action sear to pop forward. The trigger tab is in front of the double action sear, so it cannot grab the hammer to push it back.

All S&W revolvers have rebounding triggers. Look at my photo again. The shiny part behind the trigger is the rebound slide. There is a coil spring inside it. You can see the spring in my photo. When you pull the trigger, you are pushing the rebound slide back, compressing its spring, in addition to compressing the hammer spring. Notice there is a bump on top of the rebound slide, and it is contacting a bump on the bottom of the hammer. That is the rebounding feature. When you pull the trigger normally, you are forcing the rebound slide back, and that bump disengages from the bump on the bottom of the hammer, allowing the hammer to fall all the way. The reason you see the hammer sinking after you shortstroke the trigger is because as you pull the trigger you are forcing the rebound slide back, removing the bump on its top from contact with the bump on the bottom of the hammer, which allows the hammer spring to push the hammer all the way forward.

There is nothing wrong with your revolver. As I said earlier, you just have to get used to allowing the trigger to move all the way forward so it can reset the double action sear and allow the revolver to function normally.

I suspect part of the reason you may be having trouble is you are not used to how long the trigger travel is on a double action revolver. With a semi-auto that is in single action mode, all the trigger does is allow the single action sear to pop out of a cocking notch. That hardly needs any travel at all. So the trigger does not need to pop back very far to reset. Double action revolvers are very different. The trigger pull is very long, in order to push the hammer back all the way and rotate the cylinder. There is leverage and mechanical advantage involved. In order for the action to reset it self the trigger MUST be allowed to move all the way forward.

To avoid frustration in the future, do not try to release the trigger slowly. There is no value in releasing it slowly. Allow the spring inside the rebound slide to do its job of returning the trigger forward. And do not attempt to ride the trigger forward. Practice completely uncurling your trigger finger so the trigger can ride all the way forward. Do not try to maintain contact with the trigger. This is a new type of firearm for you and it will take some getting used to. Eventually, if you practice enough, you will be able to instinctively know exactly how far the trigger needs to move so the gun can operate the way it is supposed to. For now, practice uncurling your finger so you have no contact with the trigger.

The problem will go away.

By the way, excellent video, showing exactly what was going on.

lee n. field · March 25, 2017, 09:29 AM

Quote:

. That would be disappointing in its own right but understandable.

Disappointing?

Learn to run the gun the way it's supposed to be run.

---edit to add---

Watched the vid. Yeah, that doesn't seem right. Call S&W.

MrBorland · March 25, 2017, 10:06 AM

Tough crowd.

Again, the trigger should fully reset no matter how slowly you return the trigger. The OPs trigger doesn't. Watch the vid. I'll go out on a limb and predict a number of people who've chimed in with a "learn to shoot it right" nugget would likely short stroke this revolver at some point.

And once again, the innards may need a good cleaning & lubing, the rebound spring may not be strong enough for the mainspring, or the DA sear may be a wee bit long.

I DO have issues with the OPs grip and trigger pull, but that's another thread

pgb205 · March 25, 2017, 05:41 PM

ok. on mrborland suggestion I have opened a ticket with SW. I will update when they come back to me with an answer.

mehavey · March 25, 2017, 06:42 PM

I'm with McBorland.
The revolver should reset no matter how slowly the trigger is (fully) released.
(Just went a tried/verified it on both a Model 19 and a 29)

MrBorland · March 25, 2017, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pgb205

on mrborland suggestion I have opened a ticket with SW

eh…just a technicality, but I never suggested sending it to S&W.

For the handy one, cleaning and lubing, and addressing any rebound spring issue is a 5 minute job. If one can't do this themselves, a local (but competent) gunsmith can do it. Heck, if you lived close to me, I'd be happy to do it.

You can certainly send the gun to S&W, of course, and if it's shipped on their dime, you might as well send it in. But as Driftwood warned, they might tell you there's nothing wrong with your gun, especially if you simply say "it doesn't return". Be sure to explain that it's sluggish on the (and even fails to) return when the trigger's slowly let out.

And if there's anything else that S&W ought to take a look at, now's a good time to have them look into it.

March 23, 2017, 09:54 PM	#1
pgb205 Senior Member Join Date: April 11, 2013 Posts: 104	Trigger reset woes for first time revolver owner Got my first revolver. Took it to the range. No problem firing and hitting the target. except that maybe once every cylinder when I pull trigger back I get a click and no bang. Looking around the Internet, the revolvers don't have a trigger reset. I have to let go of the trigger all the ways back before I can fire again in DA. That would be disappointing in its own right but understandable. However, what happens is that cylinder spins and I lose a round until it rotates all the way back to the barrel. A few times I somehow managed to get two two fails in a row, but I'm not sure what I could be doing to cause that. Is this normal, preventable on SW revolvers? At least I would like to not 'lose' a perfectly usable round due to a short-stroke.

March 24, 2017, 02:21 PM	#13
pgb205 Senior Member Join Date: April 11, 2013 Posts: 104	Ok. probably easiest just to do the video :-) https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArEuupj3suIQjXbHZvUtTank_6dR First two pulls are full pulls and releases The gun fires just fine. After second shot I slowly release the trigger. You can see that after first click I can't pull the trigger back. I keep releasing until I hear second click. I pull back and get clunk and hammer doesn't rise but cylinder rotates. Now the trigger is fully depressed (after the clunk) and I again slowly release. First click, then second. I don't hear the third. I'm pulling back and another clunk. Then I release the trigger and hear all 3 clicks and now I fire off two more shots with no problems. Last edited by pgb205; March 24, 2017 at 02:27 PM.

March 24, 2017, 02:46 PM	#16
fastbolt Senior Member Join Date: June 9, 2002 Location: northern CA for a little while longer Posts: 1,931	Double action revolver triggers aren't intended to be released slowly to some "reset" point. They aren't mechanically the same as semiauto pistols. DA revolver triggers are designed to be allowed to briskly, fully recover forward after being pulled. If you try to slowly release and "stage" the forward recovery of a DA revolver trigger, thinking to try and hold it at some "reset" point, you can easily interfere with the proper intended functioning of the mechanism. You create a situation where the mechanism can't do what it was designed to do, in the manner it was designed to do it. You can cause the problems your video illustrates by improperly functioning a DA revolver trigger. If you're new to DA revolvers, perhaps it might be beneficial to find an instructor at a local range and ask for some help in the basic understanding, handling and usage of your nice revolver. It might make it a lot safer and much less frustrating to know how it ought to be operated. At least ask an experienced revolver shooter to try your revolver, so you can observe and learn proper trigger use and revolver functioning. It's possible you might have had some unrealistic expectations of how a revolver operates when deciding to buy one, and upon learning how a DA revolver trigger is designed to operate, it might not meet those uninformed expectations. On the positive side, though, learning to properly use a DA revolver can often make it much easier, by comparison, to shoot many common pistols, and that can help make you a better pistol shooter. __________________ Retired LE - firearms instructor & armorer

March 24, 2017, 04:15 PM	#20
Driftwood Johnson Senior Member Join Date: January 3, 2014 Location: Land of the Pilgrims Posts: 2,033	Howdy There is nothing wrong with your revolver. If you send it back to S&W they will tell you the same thing. I watched your video. The situation is exactly what I told you in my lengthy description. When you feel the gun all jammed up, the bolt has not withdrawn from the cylinder and it is preventing the cylinder from rotating as the hand tries to rotate it. The situation where you simply have the cylinder rotating without the hammer moving back is because, as I said earlier, the rear tab on the trigger, the lower arrow in my photo, has not moved down enough to allow the double action sear to pop forward. The trigger tab is in front of the double action sear, so it cannot grab the hammer to push it back. All S&W revolvers have rebounding triggers. Look at my photo again. The shiny part behind the trigger is the rebound slide. There is a coil spring inside it. You can see the spring in my photo. When you pull the trigger, you are pushing the rebound slide back, compressing its spring, in addition to compressing the hammer spring. Notice there is a bump on top of the rebound slide, and it is contacting a bump on the bottom of the hammer. That is the rebounding feature. When you pull the trigger normally, you are forcing the rebound slide back, and that bump disengages from the bump on the bottom of the hammer, allowing the hammer to fall all the way. The reason you see the hammer sinking after you shortstroke the trigger is because as you pull the trigger you are forcing the rebound slide back, removing the bump on its top from contact with the bump on the bottom of the hammer, which allows the hammer spring to push the hammer all the way forward. There is nothing wrong with your revolver. As I said earlier, you just have to get used to allowing the trigger to move all the way forward so it can reset the double action sear and allow the revolver to function normally. I suspect part of the reason you may be having trouble is you are not used to how long the trigger travel is on a double action revolver. With a semi-auto that is in single action mode, all the trigger does is allow the single action sear to pop out of a cocking notch. That hardly needs any travel at all. So the trigger does not need to pop back very far to reset. Double action revolvers are very different. The trigger pull is very long, in order to push the hammer back all the way and rotate the cylinder. There is leverage and mechanical advantage involved. In order for the action to reset it self the trigger MUST be allowed to move all the way forward. To avoid frustration in the future, do not try to release the trigger slowly. There is no value in releasing it slowly. Allow the spring inside the rebound slide to do its job of returning the trigger forward. And do not attempt to ride the trigger forward. Practice completely uncurling your trigger finger so the trigger can ride all the way forward. Do not try to maintain contact with the trigger. This is a new type of firearm for you and it will take some getting used to. Eventually, if you practice enough, you will be able to instinctively know exactly how far the trigger needs to move so the gun can operate the way it is supposed to. For now, practice uncurling your finger so you have no contact with the trigger. The problem will go away. By the way, excellent video, showing exactly what was going on. Last edited by Driftwood Johnson; March 24, 2017 at 04:35 PM.

March 24, 2017, 02:17 AM	#3
AzShooter Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2006 Location: Surprise, Az. Posts: 766	DJ gave the best description of what's going on and what your problem is. Make sure you let the trigger go all the way forward after your shot and you will be fine. Happens when you are trying to go fast I'll bet.

March 24, 2017, 06:27 AM	#4
MrBorland Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 2,614	Wait a sec - you got a "click" but no bang? Meaning the hammer rose and fell? That's a different issue than reset.

March 24, 2017, 07:30 AM	#5
Master Blaster Senior Member Join Date: October 11, 1999 Location: One of the original 13 Colonies Posts: 2,281	Did you buy the gun used? Does the gun have a light Double action trigger? It may not be resetting due to the previous owner replacing the rebound spring with a too light version or clipping too many of the coils on that spring. There is a balance between the mainspring and the rebound spring, some times the rebound spring is lightened too much resulting in a sluggish reset of the trigger. So you may need a heavier/ new rebound spring.

March 24, 2017, 07:42 AM	#6
MrBorland Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 2,614	The question remains - does the hammer lift when the DA trigger is pulled? If so, the reset's fine. The OP seemed to decide for themselves the issue was the reset, but that might not be the issue at all.

March 24, 2017, 07:51 AM	#7
Carmady Senior Member Join Date: February 26, 2013 Location: on the lam Posts: 1,735	About the click with no bang...was there a dent in the primer of an unfired round afterwards? If yes, that might be from a weak hammer strike instead of an improper reset.

March 24, 2017, 07:54 AM	#8
Driftwood Johnson Senior Member Join Date: January 3, 2014 Location: Land of the Pilgrims Posts: 2,033	Howdy Again The OP stated in his post that revolvers do not have a trigger reset. So I assumed he was not allowing the trigger to go far forward enough. If the hammer did not operate but the cylinder spun, there would be a click as the bolt popped up and stopped the cylinder from spinning. If the trigger is pulled rapidly and the trigger has not reset, the click will turn into a clunk. Doing it right now with a Model 686. Any S&W revolver will do this if the trigger has not been allowed to reset. The OP needs to be sure if the hammer is functioning normally when he gets a misfire. If the hammer is functioning properly it could be any number of things, including hammer strain screw backed out too much, light rebound slide spring, and faulty ammunition. But my money is on the OP not allowing the trigger to complete the cycle.

March 24, 2017, 08:10 AM	#9
buck460XVR Senior Member Join Date: December 28, 2006 Posts: 4,342	Not ever having any fully auto firearms, I have yet to have any firearm, that properly functioned, that did not need the trigger to be allowed forward in order to reset for another shot(other than the old .22 pump and model 97 shotguns I own that will slam-fire). Some firearms have to be allowed a longer travel before they reset tho and is just a case of proper technique.

March 24, 2017, 01:53 PM	#10
pgb205 Senior Member Join Date: April 11, 2013 Posts: 104	There are no marks on the primer and the gun is brand new from factory. I can hear three separate clicks when returning the trigger to start position First click on the way forward. If i try to pull back at this point I can not. the action is completely lockedup I keep moving trigger forward and hear softer click. If I try to pull back at this point hammer rises by just a fraction of an inch and falls back. and I hear thumping sound as cylinder rotates. The shot doesnt go off. If I keep moving trigger forward eventually I hear third click, this one is the softest. At this point if I pull back hammer fully rises and the shot goes off.

March 24, 2017, 01:55 PM	#11
Slopemeno Senior Member Join Date: January 19, 2007 Posts: 2,663	You're short-cycling it. I can do it deliberately with my Security Six.

March 24, 2017, 01:57 PM	#12
pgb205 Senior Member Join Date: April 11, 2013 Posts: 104	Another thing I've noticed in all of this is. Lets say shot is fired and I SLOOOWLY allow the trigger to return to the starting position. Sometimes if I do it just 'right' I get first click (where the action is locked) and second click, but sometimes I don't get the third click (right before the trigger is fully returned to front). So at this point the trigger is fully back to front positoin, but I would still get misfire and cylinder rotation when trying to fire again. This issue only happens with slow return of the trigger. I am unable to replicate when just letting go off the trigger after having fired a shot.

March 24, 2017, 02:32 PM	#14
Carmady Senior Member Join Date: February 26, 2013 Location: on the lam Posts: 1,735	S&W customer service: 1-800-331-0852 I'd call that number and describe the problem, and ask for a return shipping label. They'll likely fix it for free.

March 24, 2017, 02:55 PM	#17
MrBorland Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 2,614	The first click is the hand slipping to the next position on the ratchet at the back of the cylinder. The hand pushes the cylinder's rotation when the trigger's pulled. At this point, though, the front of the trigger hasn't slipped past the bolt, so it can't disengage it when pulled. This is why the action seems locked at this point. The next click is the re-engagement of the trigger with the bolt. But the trigger hasn't yet enaged the seat on the hammer, so pulling the trigger here rotates the cylinder without lifting the hammer. The last click is the engagement with sear. It happens nearly at the end of trigger return travel. If it's sluggish to engage when you slowly and fully reset the innards might need a good cleaning and lubing, of the sear may be a wee bit too long. Also check the weights of the DA and SA triggers - if the SA is too light relative to the DA (less than 40ish%), the rebound spring may need to be replaced.

March 24, 2017, 03:06 PM	#18
MrBorland Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 2,614	The trigger on a properly-functioning (and correctly-sprung) revolver should fully reset no matter how slowly or quickly the trigger is returned. You DO have to let it fully return, however, and a bad habit many revolver shooters unknowingly have is to ride the trigger forward, i.e. let the trigger push their finger forward, which can lead to short-stroking if the action's been lightened or in need of cleaning & lubing.

March 24, 2017, 04:00 PM	#19
wpsdlrg Senior Member Join Date: August 18, 2009 Posts: 826	Well, we have our answer. The OP is clearly describing "short stroking" the trigger.... and in fact, admits it. So, the only answer to be given is : don't do that. This is a training issue, plain and simple. Operator error, put another way. The OP simply has to train himself to NOT rush the shot. Nothing else to be done. DA Revolvers work the way they work....nothing to be "fixed". So (to the OP) : Slow down to speed up. Focus on that one issue...and you'll get there. You'll be surprised how rapidly you will be able to put aimed fire on your target, once trained. Actually not much slower than with a semi-auto, though everybody likes to think so. The important bit is ACCURACY, anyway.

March 25, 2017, 10:06 AM	#22
MrBorland Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 2,614	Tough crowd. Again, the trigger should fully reset no matter how slowly you return the trigger. The OPs trigger doesn't. Watch the vid. I'll go out on a limb and predict a number of people who've chimed in with a "learn to shoot it right" nugget would likely short stroke this revolver at some point. And once again, the innards may need a good cleaning & lubing, the rebound spring may not be strong enough for the mainspring, or the DA sear may be a wee bit long. I DO have issues with the OPs grip and trigger pull, but that's another thread

March 25, 2017, 05:41 PM	#23
pgb205 Senior Member Join Date: April 11, 2013 Posts: 104	ok. on mrborland suggestion I have opened a ticket with SW. I will update when they come back to me with an answer.

March 25, 2017, 06:42 PM	#24
mehavey Senior Member Join Date: June 17, 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 6,894	I'm with McBorland. The revolver should reset no matter how slowly the trigger is (fully) released. (Just went a tried/verified it on both a Model 19 and a 29)