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October 27, 2012, 08:32 AM | #1 |
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Devastator Hollow Points
Been thinking about getting a .452 Lyman Hollow point mold and I have a question.
How or what makes the "hollow' point? The pictures on Midway and Lyman just shows a long cavity from bullet tip out the bottom of the mold. Obviously I have to put something in this cavity to form the hollow point, but what? Does it come with the mold or is it purchased separately? Thanks http://www.midwayusa.com/product/670...r-hollow-point |
October 27, 2012, 10:47 AM | #2 |
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It comes with a pin on a knob that you put into it. Then you pour the lead, and pull the pin out and it leaves the hollow. Here is one of mine (not a Devastator, but it shows the idea.) I have a pin to make the hollow point, and also a flat ended pin that I can put in, flush with the end of the pin channel, to make the original bullet with the flat tip and no hollow.
Last edited by Beagle333; October 27, 2012 at 10:54 AM. |
October 27, 2012, 11:13 AM | #3 |
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Here's a couple I've done reciently so you can get some idea how the traditional "spud" in a HP mold works and some of the options you may have.
"Devastator" in .358 Same mold fitted with an adjustable pin (sleeved to decrease pin diameter and give a little extra integrity to the nose). Pin can be adjusted to the rear lube groove for deep-cavity HP or backed out to nothing more than a dimple in the nose. (not the type of thing that happens at the factory, however)
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October 28, 2012, 12:55 AM | #4 |
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That design by Lyman and others has been around for a very long time. But from the start the pin is hard to keep hot enough to form hollow points without voids. A better design almost as old as that is the cramer type of HP mold.
The pins stay with the mold, sliding sideways to allow the boolits to drop off them. This keeps the pins hot so they cast fully filled out boolits. That's a MP mold, I got that through a group buy over at cast boolits .com. It's a 200 RNFPHP The HP pins can be flipped 180 degrees, then the bottoms form a solid boolit @ about 215 grains. http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/ Yes, they DO expand! Round HP on the left, penta point on right. Take a look around on Miha's site, he just might have some of those molds left. He over-runs the group buys, then sells them direct from the website. BTW, they'll run you about 150 bucks for the mold with both pin styles. http://www.mp-molds.com/index.php?pr=Molds
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October 28, 2012, 02:29 AM | #5 |
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Oh boy... Snuffy is coming out with the "Pretties"... I keep seeing GB's popping up that I would love to jump on. Problem is I'd be kicked out to my shop and the loading bench wouldn't be so comfortable to sleep on. But that sure is a pretty one--almost worth a week in the doghouse... ALMOST.
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October 28, 2012, 07:37 AM | #6 |
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Yep I can say from experience the MP is the way to go if your looking for a good HP mold. The one cavity Lyman can and will produce some nice HP's but like was mentioned you have to keep that pin hot and run your alloy right at the 700 degree area as well to keep everything up to temp. Throw in that once you start it is non stop pour, pull, reinsert, and pour again about as fast as you can get away with to keep it there. With the MP's you have WAY more flexibility and the pour rate is 4-1 over the Lyman.
But if you could also look over at Hollow Point Bullet Mold Service to see if he might have a double cavity one that suits your fancy as well. Or he can convert one to the Cramer style for cheaper than the MP's. That said, I have picked up a couple of the after group buy left overs and they usually run about $130 depending on how you set them up pin wise. Even a couple with all pin options were within that range. I do however have to warn you, once you get one, others WILL follow. Sorry but it IS the truth..... For some awesome expansion try and pick an alloy somewhere in the 20/1 or one with 2/2/96 ratio tin/antimony/lead or slightly less. Right now I am working on one that is just a touch harder than the 1.5/1.5/97 I used for these, That alloy is fine for the 1000fps range I am using from my 45 Colt, but for the faster 41, and 44 mags I need just a touch more hardness to keep them together in similar fashion. Hope this helps, BTW if you can find one of those thin foam work out mats, it will help out quite a bit on top of that new bed you spoke of.....
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October 28, 2012, 10:43 AM | #7 |
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October 28, 2012, 02:57 PM | #8 |
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I doubt you will be disappointed in it.
Also let me know if you might be interested in possibly swapping out a few for something in a different caliber. I have been wanting to try out a few cast through my 10mm but just haven't gotten bit by the bug hard enough yet to throw down on a mold. Maybe we can do some swapping on a few later on.
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October 28, 2012, 06:16 PM | #9 |
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Sounds good.
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October 28, 2012, 09:25 PM | #10 |
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I have two of Erik's molds. Both perform very well.
I highly recommend him and his work.
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November 14, 2012, 10:58 AM | #11 |
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I'm looking at getting into lead casting and wondered a bit about the hollow points. My few concerns was wondering how reliable the hollow points chamber in ramp feel action pistols? With the force behind the bullet pushing up the ramp does it deform the hollow point at all? Do you guys find that hollow point to be just as accurate as any other style of nose?
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November 15, 2012, 11:34 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
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November 15, 2012, 04:46 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
I do this with my NOE RG2 tilt pin HP mold and I can cast a couple hundred HP's before the pins need coating again. I use it to lube my mold as well. shot as cast in 38 spec. snubby,TL twice and GC left off. |
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November 15, 2012, 06:45 PM | #14 |
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I wish i'd bought some good HP molds when I had the cash. My bad. Still have that nice single cavity Lyman to HP when I get a 'round to it...
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November 16, 2012, 06:22 PM | #15 |
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I found some time last night to cast a few from my new mold.
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