How to choose optics?

[ghbucky]

I've been shooting pistols for years. But, I recently picked up an AR and put a 1x RDS on it. I took it out this past week to a 330 yard range and had a great time.

I realized there that the rifle is fully capable of using that entire range, but my 55yo eyes certainly can't see much beyond 100 yds without magnification.

So, now for the first time ever I'm looking at rifle scopes, and I'm in analysis paralysis. There are so many options from even 1 manufacturer that I'm clueless how to even evaluate anything.

And, I realize that good ones are expensive, so if I make a bad pick, I'm out a fair chunk of change.

Do the folks around here that use them regularly have any kind of system to make these kind of choices?

[ghbucky]

I guess this is a useless request unless you know what I intend to do with it!

I'd like to attend an Appleseed Project event, and my reading tells me that they want to train you to shoot out to 500 yds. Now, I'll freely admit that I know of no 500yd ranges around here, so that may be unrealistic.

I'd like to use it for target shooting, realistically max distance would be 350 yards, but I'd also like to think I can get out to 500 if I get a chance.

[Pahoo]

I measure it by performance, which means that it has to meet or exceed my expectations on that I'm going to mount it on. As far as cost, it really comes down to "Ya get what you pay for it. In case, I go for the moderately priced scopes, domestic or foreign. In a hunting scope, I try to stay with a max objective of 40 or 42. On my target, I go with a 50. You listed some range requirements that personally are probably not realistic, in use. Most ranges, I frequent have a far less limit. I live in the Midwest and if I lived out west, it would be a different story. 200yds. Is my limit and still keep the fun-factor alive. .....

Be Safe !!!

[ghbucky]

I was shooting at a 330 yard static silhouette near Louisville, KY on Wednesday, so there is nothing unrealistic about it.

I have a friend in CO that has access to a 1000 yard range, so 500 yds isn't out of the question, either.

[jmr40]

A 1-4X or 1-6X scope is the most versatile optic for an AR. On 1X it is faster to get on target than either irons or dot sights up close and it works better in low light than either.

On 4x you should be able to shoot 1MOA out to 400 yards or 600 yards with it on 6X. That is if the rifle is capable of MOA accuracy.

my 55yo eyes certainly can't see much beyond 100 yds without magnification.

You don't need the magnification, you need for everything to be on the same focal plane so your eyes don't have to focus on 3 objects 3 different distances. That and a quality piece of glass that you can focus for your eyes.

Unless you get into the really high end dot sights the optics suck. You can get a pretty decent 1-4X or 1.5-4X scope on a 1" tube for around $200. If you want to go to a 30mm tube and 1-6X magnification it will be closer to $300 or maybe a bit more.

And if you just feel you have to have more magnification there are a lot of 3-9X40 hunting scopes that will work. Just don't buy junk. Most anything with a MSRP of $200 or more is usually acceptable. Just comes down to the features you like.

You pick up more magnification for longer shots, but give up the fast target acquisition of 1X. Along with a bigger, heavier scope.

[IZZY]

So far you have gotten good advice.

A fixed 4 or 6 power is all you need on an AR-15...you could go adjustable if you worry about field of view, or need to "reach out and touch some one".

IDK about the 200 USD budget others talk about, I have not seen a really good scope that will last for a long time in that price point...Leupold and Meopta, SWFA, are either decent or great depending on model, but unless you are talking used, they are more than 200 dollars. I dont trust cheap asian import scopes.

[ghbucky]

The price point isn't an issue for me. I just want to know how to go about picking an optic.

I'd rather spend $800 once, than spend $500 and find out I made a mistake. Just grabbing #'s out of thin air here.

[jmhyer]

If you anticipate using your rifle in a home defense situation, I would recommend something that begins with 1x magnification. For reaching out to your desired distance, I would look at something in the 4x to 6x range. So this would put me looking at 1-6x options from manufacturers like Vortex, Burris, or Primary Arms.

If you are just wanting to reach out to distance, then the world is your oyster. There are too many good options for me to list (and at almost any budget) in scopes with starting magnifications of 2x or 3x.

[ms6852]

When I choose a scope it is based purely on what I plan to use it with that particular rifle.
My 22 lr rifles have the highest magnification scopes on up to 18X because this are my target scopes up to 200 yards. For hunting the highest magnification I use is 9X because most times using more magnification in the areas that I hunt are to hunt and mirage becomes a problem in to this date the most I use is 8X on my 9x. Buying cheap scopes with huge magnification is a mistake especially if you plan to go long distance because as you dial up the magnification the clarity decreases at the higher levels. Once I decide what my preferences are going to be for that scope I look for a scope that check all my boxes. I make sure that :

1. It must have parallax correction or adjustable objective.
2. It must have enough internal adjustment elevation required for the distance I am
shooting.
3. The scope must remain clear without aberrations through all levels of magnification at
the distance I am shooting.
4. The reticle must be one that I can use to make quick corrections for follow up shots like
a mil-dot or a Horus for example. This allows me to see corrections if I see bullet impact.

[Nathan]

The best optics system....or rifle will be the one that best matches your use cases

It is best to spend your time working in your exact use cases based on what you have done and what you want to do with the rifle.

For example, my last scope buy...

It is for a rifle I’m having built. That rifle is a Win 70 in 300 Sherman with a custom barrel and stock. 300 Sherman is about the same as 300 WSM ballistics.

So, my main shooting will be 400-600 deer/elk. I hunt by spot & stalk.

....but, I’m not so bold as to pass up a nice 25 yd shot walking in.

I also have experience taking ~250-400 yd game where the shots can ba kind of fast.

So, in a nutshell, I’m saying I need 18-25x high magnification, 2-4x low magnification, a Christmas tree reticle in ffp for fast aiming from a drop chart, a visible reticle feature at low power, and 32 oz as absolut max weight!

I chose the Meopta6 3-18x50 R1 MRAD reticle with a locking elevation and capped windage. This should be about perfect, except it is on back order.

If I could be more sure about range or time to shoot, I think it could be even simpler like an sfp duplex reticle with good turrets.

[ghbucky]

@ms6852

Thank you. Would you be wiling to elaborate?

1,2 and 3 are the ones that have me lost.

It must have parallax correction or adjustable objective.

For parallax adjustment, is it enough that a scope has it? Are there good and bad adjustments?

It must have enough internal adjustment elevation required for the distance I am
shooting.

How do you know if a scope can adjust to what you are shooting? Can you point me to the math or something that tells me how to work that out or is this specified in the small print details on the scopes?

The scope must remain clear without aberrations through all levels of magnification at
the distance I am shooting.

This is the big one for me. I see the line is always "buy good glass" but no real detail on what that means. How do you know if the scope is clear through all mags without actually taking it into the field and using it? I could stand in a store and look through a crappy scope and not have a clue it was a crappy scope.

Is there a test I can do in a store?

I'm assuming with these requirements that you only purchase scopes that you have actually handled, rather than buying online?

[ms6852]

1. Rifle scopes are designed to allow the shooter to focus on the target. There are three main advantages: The target is in-focus, being in-focus will eliminate parallax (movement of the point of aim when the shooter shifts the eye position), and the range information on the focus knob can be used for better aiming. Scopes without the parallax adjustment knob or adjustable objective usually have a parallax correction fixed at 100 or 150 yards. If you shoot beyond that distance when you shift your eyes or move your head (cheek weld your target will move. It becomes more difficult to know if the rifle is accurate if you do not have tight groups or it was caused by movement from your cheek weld.

2. When you purchase a scope the internal adjustment for elevation is determined in minutes of angle or (MOA) or mil radian thousands of an inch. You decide which is best for yourself I see no difference personally. Here is a link with a good explanation for both.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VA2P...?v=S5AGsHSIsVo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5AGsHSIsVo&t=31s

3. On some of the less expensive scopes as you increase the magnification you begin to lose the clarity the scope has at its lowest setting in magnification. Some even become blurred at higher magnifications . My experience has taught me that for me and my eyes scopes that I buy that gives me the best clarity throughout all the settings usually start around the $400 mark but I don't with max settings of 16x. Higher settings require more $$$. The chromatic aberrations that I talk about usually occur at higher settings on cheaper scopes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MlUaJHfkx7E

[ghbucky]

I've been doing searches on 1-6x variables, first focal plane, and I can't find a single one with adjustable parallax.

Leupold only has fixed parallax, 50 yards to infinity to be specific about one.

Trijicon doesn't seem to have anything to say about parallax at all.

Is adjustable parallax not really a thing until you get to higher magnifications?

[Nathan]

Is adjustable parallax not really a thing until you get to higher magnifications?

It doesn’t really affect your aim under 14x, IMO

MIL vs MOA: IMO, Mil is the way to go because it is a base 10 system. MOA can be base 10, but really 1/4 moa increments are more useful. Because of this, the reticles are a mess.

MIL reticles are 1 mil lines, .5 mil dots, 0.2 mil increments....a 3.4 mil adjustment is just down 3 Mila and 2 increment marks.

MOA reticles are often 5 moa lines, 1 moa increments....so, then there are the 1 moa lines and 1/2 or 1/4 increments which are crowded together and a bit unusable except for small adjustments.

MIL has just prove a better fit to shooting. Neither is metric. Both are angular measurement system.

. I see the line is always "buy good glass" but no real detail on what that means.

I would guess you are struggling with the 2 things most of us do. The people giving good glass often don’t know how to see goodness and how it applies to shooting. Good is not defineable by quantitative testing as far as I can tell. Wouldn’t it be nice to have a number? It is basically a phrase that tells you to pick the optic that will allow you to resolve your target the best in various lighting conditions without blurry distractions, chromatic aberration, inability to focus, or optical errors that misrepresent the target.

If you have to spare some cost, simplify adjustments, magnification range and accept some struggles in aiming.

[ghbucky]

Thanks, Nathan.

What happens if I use a scope with a 50+ yd parallax (like Leupold, for exampl) at 25 yards? Is the scope going to be very unforgiving of head movement at shorter ranges?

[Nathan]

It means that 0-50 yards will have lots of parallax error. Maybe even as much as 1”....over 50 yards, it will be near 0 parallax...seems like a good trade off.