Mossberg 500 tack driver after Barrel pin job!

Joey V. · January 19, 2011, 10:49 AM

I have a Mossberg 500 with 2 barrels one rifled one smooth. I "pinned" the rifled barrel to the crap aluminum receiver. I used two 8-34 stainless machine bolts and a tap (homedepot had it all). I attached the rifled barrel to the gun and locked it down with the set bolt knob as tight as I could with channel locks without breaking the set bolt.

I then JB weld epoxies a weaver scope base to the receiver and got extra long scope base (6x48) screws from brownells and jb welded those in too on the receiver treads and bolted it down until dry. You will have to grind the screws down a bit for clearance and don't screw that part up. Once the jb weld dries your done for EVER! I did that because I heard that the recoil will at some point rip the screws out of the aluminum receiver though I have never known anyone this happened to.. I then drilled my first "pin" screw hole down through the scope base, receiver, and barrel lug/sleeve for the top pin. Then on the side of the receiver I drilled another hole through the receiver and into the barrel lug again. Lastly, remove the barrel and taped treads on the BARREL lug ONLY and ream out the receiver holes just a little bit so you have a tiny bit of wiggle room when you put the barrel back on again. If you tap the barrel lugs the steel is so hard I broke a tap off the second I tried to turn it at first. Pain in the butt to get the tap out!!!! So oil the tap and take out just one chip of thread at a time and then back out the tap wipe off the chip and go at it again. It took me an hour to tap both holes that is how hard the steal is.

Alternatively I could have just jb welded the barrel to the receiver instead and it would have held for longer than I will be alive I am sure but I wanted to be able to replace the barrel easy if I ever needed to so... After doing all of this I have a Mossberg 500 without the cantilever base that I HATE that will shoot as good as a rifle at 100 yards. I am so happy I did this and didn't spend the $180 on the cantilever barrel. I was going to buy the Savage 220 bolt action but now I don't have to. One ragged hole at 100yrds is as good as it gets. Only 1 of my hunting rifles can do that and I have a few lol!

JV

maierar · January 19, 2011, 01:13 PM

Pictures?

kx592 · January 19, 2011, 01:37 PM

Yea need pictures

Also what ammo gets you "big hole" at 100yards?

zippy13 · January 19, 2011, 02:34 PM

Many thanks for your detailed report, Joey. The procedure is mentioned every now and then, and you're the most recent to make the upgrade. Your results of "One ragged hole at 100yrds," will have other slug shooters wanting to duplicate the upgrade. Please post some pics. Also, some members will want to know what tools are required for a proper job.

Joey V. · January 19, 2011, 03:22 PM

I will try to post some pics asap.

As for the ammo it is simple!

www.lymanproducts.com

Bullet # : SC12

Grain: 525gr

Single Cavity # : 2654112

The Sabot slug is designed to fit standard shotgun wads and star crimped. No special roll crimping tools necessary. Uses Standard Plastic Wads

Lyman gives you data with the mold but I can post it if need be. I use 45G Blue Dot formula right from lyman and the wad and hulls they call for. I am not a caster and old guy I hunt with just turned me on to this last week. He gave me about 25 slugs to load that he casted. I showed him my hornady SST's. slugs and he just laughed and shook his head. He then challenged me to a shoot. 3 round 100yrds. SST 3"group, him 1 ragged hole. Then he showed me his secret. This buy the way I come to find is far from a secret but young guys like me are only turned on by the sex new latest sst bullcrap! Not anymore I can knock your eye out at 100yrds nooooo problem and for about 25 cents a piece! Again I think these slugs work best out of a slower twist barrel. They new bolt actions are 1-24 twist wich will make a difference i think in a bad way. We just have not had anyone to help try it out yet...

globemaster3 · January 20, 2011, 01:05 PM

I had a C-17 loadmaster that went by Joey V. once...

Do you know what kind of speed you are getting? Also, have you mapped the trajectory (how much high at 50, low at 150, etc)?

I'm not so much interested in pinning my barrel, but I might break out my MEC to try this.

Joey V. · January 21, 2011, 01:51 PM

Hey I am not that Joey V for sure LOL.

Anyway, The speed I am getting is about 1450fps and 9300 for pressure. this data is supplied by Lyman with the slug mold. As for trajectory it astounded me! I sight in dead on at 50 yards and I hit about 1/2 high at 100yrds. That means the bullet is still climbing very slowly passed 100. From what I have read when the slug slows it will tumble and it was designed to do that to quickly burn off its energy so it is safe to use in shotgun only areas and you don't kill the neighbor. I don't know how true that is but lets say it is true. Under this assumption the slug would still be very accurate out to say 150 maybe even 200yrds all depends on speed.... I have not shot it that far yet but I would love to give it a try for sure. For me that is too far of a shot without a bench rest but it would be just good knowledge I think???

Joey V. · January 21, 2011, 02:03 PM

Hope the pics upload right never tried this before. Attached are 3 pics. the most important it to note how I drilled throught the scope base,reciever, and into the barrel all at once. Again there are two screws/pins in the barrel lug. One on top and one in the side.

jersey_emt · January 21, 2011, 06:05 PM

Those pics are way too tiny. Can't clearly see what you've done.

January 19, 2011, 10:49 AM	#1
Joey V. Member Join Date: October 18, 2010 Posts: 55	Mossberg 500 tack driver after Barrel pin job! I have a Mossberg 500 with 2 barrels one rifled one smooth. I "pinned" the rifled barrel to the crap aluminum receiver. I used two 8-34 stainless machine bolts and a tap (homedepot had it all). I attached the rifled barrel to the gun and locked it down with the set bolt knob as tight as I could with channel locks without breaking the set bolt. I then JB weld epoxies a weaver scope base to the receiver and got extra long scope base (6x48) screws from brownells and jb welded those in too on the receiver treads and bolted it down until dry. You will have to grind the screws down a bit for clearance and don't screw that part up. Once the jb weld dries your done for EVER! I did that because I heard that the recoil will at some point rip the screws out of the aluminum receiver though I have never known anyone this happened to.. I then drilled my first "pin" screw hole down through the scope base, receiver, and barrel lug/sleeve for the top pin. Then on the side of the receiver I drilled another hole through the receiver and into the barrel lug again. Lastly, remove the barrel and taped treads on the BARREL lug ONLY and ream out the receiver holes just a little bit so you have a tiny bit of wiggle room when you put the barrel back on again. If you tap the barrel lugs the steel is so hard I broke a tap off the second I tried to turn it at first. Pain in the butt to get the tap out!!!! So oil the tap and take out just one chip of thread at a time and then back out the tap wipe off the chip and go at it again. It took me an hour to tap both holes that is how hard the steal is. Alternatively I could have just jb welded the barrel to the receiver instead and it would have held for longer than I will be alive I am sure but I wanted to be able to replace the barrel easy if I ever needed to so... After doing all of this I have a Mossberg 500 without the cantilever base that I HATE that will shoot as good as a rifle at 100 yards. I am so happy I did this and didn't spend the $180 on the cantilever barrel. I was going to buy the Savage 220 bolt action but now I don't have to. One ragged hole at 100yrds is as good as it gets. Only 1 of my hunting rifles can do that and I have a few lol! JV

January 19, 2011, 03:22 PM	#5
Joey V. Member Join Date: October 18, 2010 Posts: 55	The Sabot load is simple. I will try to post some pics asap. As for the ammo it is simple! www.lymanproducts.com Bullet # : SC12 Grain: 525gr Single Cavity # : 2654112 The Sabot slug is designed to fit standard shotgun wads and star crimped. No special roll crimping tools necessary. Uses Standard Plastic Wads Lyman gives you data with the mold but I can post it if need be. I use 45G Blue Dot formula right from lyman and the wad and hulls they call for. I am not a caster and old guy I hunt with just turned me on to this last week. He gave me about 25 slugs to load that he casted. I showed him my hornady SST's. slugs and he just laughed and shook his head. He then challenged me to a shoot. 3 round 100yrds. SST 3"group, him 1 ragged hole. Then he showed me his secret. This buy the way I come to find is far from a secret but young guys like me are only turned on by the sex new latest sst bullcrap! Not anymore I can knock your eye out at 100yrds nooooo problem and for about 25 cents a piece! Again I think these slugs work best out of a slower twist barrel. They new bolt actions are 1-24 twist wich will make a difference i think in a bad way. We just have not had anyone to help try it out yet...

January 21, 2011, 01:51 PM	#7
Joey V. Member Join Date: October 18, 2010 Posts: 55	I do know the speed + Hey I am not that Joey V for sure LOL. Anyway, The speed I am getting is about 1450fps and 9300 for pressure. this data is supplied by Lyman with the slug mold. As for trajectory it astounded me! I sight in dead on at 50 yards and I hit about 1/2 high at 100yrds. That means the bullet is still climbing very slowly passed 100. From what I have read when the slug slows it will tumble and it was designed to do that to quickly burn off its energy so it is safe to use in shotgun only areas and you don't kill the neighbor. I don't know how true that is but lets say it is true. Under this assumption the slug would still be very accurate out to say 150 maybe even 200yrds all depends on speed.... I have not shot it that far yet but I would love to give it a try for sure. For me that is too far of a shot without a bench rest but it would be just good knowledge I think???

January 21, 2011, 06:05 PM	#9
jersey_emt Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Posts: 440	Those pics are way too tiny. Can't clearly see what you've done. __________________ A liberal firearms owner and 2A supporter from New Jersey (yes, we do exist). SIG Sauer P6, S&W Model 59, Ruger Mark II "NRA Endowment" special edition, Mossberg 500 12-gauge. Please check out WhichGun.com, a firearms reference and buying guide.

January 19, 2011, 01:13 PM	#2
maierar Member Join Date: March 9, 2010 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 33	Pictures?

January 19, 2011, 01:37 PM	#3
kx592 Senior Member Join Date: August 9, 2009 Posts: 645	Yea need pictures Also what ammo gets you "big hole" at 100yards?

January 19, 2011, 02:34 PM	#4
zippy13 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2008 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,442	Many thanks for your detailed report, Joey. The procedure is mentioned every now and then, and you're the most recent to make the upgrade. Your results of "One ragged hole at 100yrds," will have other slug shooters wanting to duplicate the upgrade. Please post some pics. Also, some members will want to know what tools are required for a proper job.

January 20, 2011, 01:05 PM	#6
globemaster3 Senior Member Join Date: January 28, 2006 Posts: 1,482	I had a C-17 loadmaster that went by Joey V. once... Do you know what kind of speed you are getting? Also, have you mapped the trajectory (how much high at 50, low at 150, etc)? I'm not so much interested in pinning my barrel, but I might break out my MEC to try this.