Recoil Pad Repair

WSM MAGNUM · November 29, 2008, 03:22 PM

The screws for the recoil pad on my Remington SP-10 are stripped out. They no longer have any wood to bite into. So I was thinking to glue in wood dowels to fill in the holes and then re-drill the holes again.
My main reason for posting this is, this is the second gun where the recoil pad screws stripped out on me. Is this a problem that most guns have when you try to remove the pads? I think the factory is drilling the holes in the wood a little too big.
What are your experiences with the pads on your guns?

Pahoo · November 29, 2008, 07:52 PM

This is the usual repair and woodworker's supply even make a taper tool and provides the plugs. The plugs are tapered like a pencil point. I have only seen this problem on older guns and seems to be mostly what they call dry rot in wood. However, I have seen some Remingtons that have a great stock finish but raw wood under the butt plate. I sometimes coat these butt ends with epoxy or a good spar varnish. Take care to mark and drill the new holes as your butt plate won't be veryy forgiving. I know some folks to put beeswax on the threads of the mounting screws and other put epoxy, I guess in part to seal this area as well. I use beeswax. Understand that I am not a gun smith but a tinkerer. I do build M/L,s and rework stocks. Good luck..

Be Safe !!!

Doyle · November 29, 2008, 08:35 PM

If you don't feel like drilling out and doweling, you can try the toothpick trick. Get a toothpick and cut the tips off about 1/2 inch from each end. Dip the pointy ends in wood glue and stick them into the screw holes (2 to the hole. Now, put a little wax on the screw and screw them into the holes almost as deep as they would go with the pad on. After letting it dry for about 2 days, gently remove the screws and try to screw on the recoil pad.

November 29, 2008, 03:22 PM	#1
WSM MAGNUM Senior Member Join Date: September 30, 2006 Location: Maryland Posts: 750	Recoil Pad Repair The screws for the recoil pad on my Remington SP-10 are stripped out. They no longer have any wood to bite into. So I was thinking to glue in wood dowels to fill in the holes and then re-drill the holes again. My main reason for posting this is, this is the second gun where the recoil pad screws stripped out on me. Is this a problem that most guns have when you try to remove the pads? I think the factory is drilling the holes in the wood a little too big. What are your experiences with the pads on your guns? __________________ Henry - Life NRA Member, USCCA Shield Member If con is the opposite of pro, is Congress the opposite of progress?

November 29, 2008, 07:52 PM	#2
Pahoo Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2006 Location: IOWA Posts: 8,783	This is the usual repair and woodworker's supply even make a taper tool and provides the plugs. The plugs are tapered like a pencil point. I have only seen this problem on older guns and seems to be mostly what they call dry rot in wood. However, I have seen some Remingtons that have a great stock finish but raw wood under the butt plate. I sometimes coat these butt ends with epoxy or a good spar varnish. Take care to mark and drill the new holes as your butt plate won't be veryy forgiving. I know some folks to put beeswax on the threads of the mounting screws and other put epoxy, I guess in part to seal this area as well. I use beeswax. Understand that I am not a gun smith but a tinkerer. I do build M/L,s and rework stocks. Good luck.. Be Safe !!!

November 29, 2008, 08:35 PM	#3
Doyle Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2007 Location: Rainbow City, Alabama Posts: 7,167	If you don't feel like drilling out and doweling, you can try the toothpick trick. Get a toothpick and cut the tips off about 1/2 inch from each end. Dip the pointy ends in wood glue and stick them into the screw holes (2 to the hole. Now, put a little wax on the screw and screw them into the holes almost as deep as they would go with the pad on. After letting it dry for about 2 days, gently remove the screws and try to screw on the recoil pad.