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Old January 7, 2011, 09:21 PM   #1
bassfishindoc
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Stuck Cases Driving me Nuts!

I have had two stuck cases in my last two reloading sessions and don't know why. Both times were with Redding full length resizing dies, the first time with 30-06 and the second time with 223. The dies were fully cleaned before the reloading session, they were placed in my RCBS Rock Chucker correctly, the cases were lubed using an RCBS lube pad and lube, and the inside of the case necks were lubed with RCBS lube for the 30-06 and Frankford Arsenal Mica dry lube for the 223. Everything was going fine for about 25 rounds and then a case would stick. To top it off, I have an RCBS stuck case remover and can't get the brass out. I drill the hole in the bottom of the case fine but can't seem to form threads with the thread forming bit. I was trying for over 30 minutes one night without success. So can anybody point out what I am doing wrong to get the cases stuck and why I can't make threads to get the brass out? Thanks!
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Old January 7, 2011, 09:29 PM   #2
NWPilgrim
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.223 cases hardly have much friction to begin with, so one getting stuck is a real problem in the lubing. I don't use a lube pad, so maybe it is running dry after 20-25 cases?

I use RCBS or Hornady spray lube. I put the cases upside down in a case block. The main area to lube besides the neck is the base of the case where the most friction occurs. Maybe the bases are hanging over the pad edge or the lube isn't spreading over the whole pad. Make sure you have plenty of lube on the section of pad which the bases roll over.
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Old January 7, 2011, 09:53 PM   #3
maggys drawers
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I had the occasional stuck 30-06 case when starting out using One Shot or RCBS spray lubes. Switched to Imperial wax and haven't had one since. Best stuff going IMHO.

Try putting the die in the freezer for a few hours. The difference in shrinkage between steel and brass (the brass shrinks more) is sometimes enough you can pull the stuck case out with pliers or your press if the rim isn't too buggered up.
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Old January 7, 2011, 10:02 PM   #4
jmorris
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I like the dillon lube myself, changed after oneshot let me down a few times. I do 1800 an hour of .223 without an issue. dillon and lee dies are the most forgiving (easy out) of all dies made.
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Old January 7, 2011, 10:05 PM   #5
Dr. Strangelove
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I've been able to solve every stuck case issue simply by unscrewing the die while the case is locked into the shellholder.

For dies without shoulders where you can fit an adjustable wrench, simply wrap in cloth to protect the finish, then tighten a Visegrip™ around the die and unscrew.
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Old January 7, 2011, 10:10 PM   #6
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Double post.

Last edited by Dr. Strangelove; January 7, 2011 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Double post
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Old January 7, 2011, 10:18 PM   #7
jepp2
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Quote:
I drill the hole in the bottom of the case fine but can't seem to form threads with the thread forming bit.
Your words are thread forming bit. It is just a tap. You are using the tap, not the socket head cap screw, right?

Just hold the tap straight and apply steady pressure as you turn it clockwise as viewed from the wrench end of the tap looking toward the case.

If you are sticking cases in a die, you aren't using enough lube. Period. Easy to tell if you are using too much as you will begin to get dents near the case neck on the shoulder.

As mentioned, Imperial wax is an excellent sizing lube. Almost impossible to apply too much, and you will not stick a case when using. My only issue is that it is just too slow to apply when sizing large quantities of brass. So I use synthetic motor oil and have never stuck a case in over 20K.
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Old January 7, 2011, 11:23 PM   #8
Colorado Redneck
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Clean the dies?

I take my dies apart and clean them good every so often.
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Old January 8, 2011, 08:32 AM   #9
Snakedriver
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Home Depot and Lowes sells a tap handle to properly grip the tap bit. Are you using one to get the tep to install the threads? Brass is soft compared to the steel of the tap bit, so you shouldn't have any problems. The RCBS Stuck Case Removal Kit works great for me!

ETA: Here's an excellent video from the folks at Midway showing the use of the RCBS Stuck Case Removal Tool:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSzkdqM45KE
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Old January 8, 2011, 08:54 AM   #10
wncchester
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So can anybody point out what I am doing wrong to get the cases stuck

Yeah. You aren't putttin enough lube on the cases, especially down near the head, that's where they get stuck.


why I can't make threads to get the brass out?

Either you aren't using the correct tool (tap) or aren't using a tap wrench to drive it.

When you do get the tap started, turn it about a half turn in, then about a quarter turn out, and repeat that until you get all the way through.
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Old January 8, 2011, 10:08 AM   #11
m&p45acp10+1
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Here is a way to prevent any more stuck cases.

Go to a pharmacy, the one in your local grocery store may even carry it. Go to where they sell the condoms. Look where the lubricants are. Buy a bottle of the sillicone lubricant. I use the Wet Platinum. I paid less than $6 for a pretty large bottle of it. It is liquid silicone that is about as thin as baby oil. The bottle will last you for well over a year or more.

Take a cleaning patch, a cotton ball, and pipe cleaner.

Put a couple of drops of the lube on the cotton ball, and the end of the pipe cleaner. Roll the cotton ball in your fingers, then wipe the excess off with the cleaning patch. Now use the pipe cleaner to lube the insided of the case neck, use your fingers and roll the case between them. It will slide through the dies like you will not believe, and no lube dents. Also no more stuck cases. If you tumble them for about 15 minutes they are good to go. If you do not have a tumbler, a touch of alcohol on a piece of shop towel will do the trick.
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Old January 8, 2011, 10:26 AM   #12
e4for2
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I use RCBS water base lube

Mail your dies to me and I'll pull that stuck case out for ya,,I have 2 different size set-ups to remove case
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Old January 8, 2011, 10:45 AM   #13
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I used heat ( torch) one time to free up a case, pop right out. about 300 F
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Old January 8, 2011, 11:06 AM   #14
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I also use the RCBS lube and lube pad and personally love it. You dont state how many cases you lube at once or if you continue to. I like to roll about 7 cases at a time, get a very very smal film of lube on these and then take your poly brush and pour just a dab on brush and brush inside of the necks about every other one. Personally I use a qtip sometimes and smear every other one with small film inside of neck. After sizing these 7 cases roll 7 more and start process over. You should never see a stuck case the rest of your life. By the way, dont damage your die. If you cant get out stuck case most die manufactures will get them out if you send it to them free of charge. Anyway Goodluck to ya.
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Old January 8, 2011, 04:28 PM   #15
jb683
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I have always used the Lee Resizing Lub, and have never had a stuck case. Give it a try, ... it is only a couple of bucks... It seems to be a wax type of lube, water based and you use very little of it. Have loaded over 2000 rounds of 223 with it.
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Old January 8, 2011, 04:34 PM   #16
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I use Dr. Nylaters tit dielating sauve for cows, works awesome
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Old January 8, 2011, 08:45 PM   #17
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ETA: Here's an excellent video from the folks at Midway showing the use of the RCBS Stuck Case Removal Tool:

Not to bad a video, however they do skip past the step where we have to extract the de-capper expander. That is best done before the die is removed from the top of the press. Then the die can be threaded into the press from the underside instead of clamping it in a vice. a couple washers work just fine with any 1/4" NC bolt 1" - 1-1/2" long.


Quote:
I've been able to solve every stuck case issue simply by unscrewing the die while the case is locked into the shellholder.
I guess I have never known I have a stuck case until the rim is ripper away.
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Old January 8, 2011, 11:43 PM   #18
bassfishindoc
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Thanks for all the advice. I had never used a tap before and did not know what I was doing, and no instructions are included with the RCBS kit (I guess they figure we will just know how it all works). I was using the tap with a drill and had ended up damaging it, that is why I could not get threads. I went to lowes and got another tap along with the proper handle and was able to tap the brass and pull it out with the kit and my press. I have thoroughly cleaned the dies. I will be trying again tomorrow. I roll the brass across the lube pad and ensure there is lube along the entire length of the brass excluding the shoulder and neck, I guess I may need more lube on the pad, but I thought I had enough because I could see a slight film along the length of the brass but I will try more. If I get another stuck case tomorrow I will probably go and try another brand of lube, I could have gotten a bad batch.
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Old January 9, 2011, 02:24 AM   #19
bamaranger
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steel case?

Uh, you don't have a steel case mix up do you?
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Old January 9, 2011, 02:32 AM   #20
Xfire68
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I will bet it is the lube. I have had a few stuck cases and it was every time I tried something other then Hornady's One Shot? I am not saying that there is no better lube then Hornady's but I have yet to use one?

I have also had great luck using Lee's case lube but, it's a bit messy unlike Hornady's.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/One-S...All%20Products
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Old January 9, 2011, 08:41 AM   #21
wncchester
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Ref. lubes, all the above simply confirms that any normal case lube, and a lot of abnormal ones, work fine IF they are properly applied. If we don't apply a lube properly none of them will work very well.
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Old January 9, 2011, 09:06 AM   #22
glockster
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Stuck cases

I have a .308 case get stuck here and there, not often, but enought to be annoying. The wifes little butane torch for making creme brulee burnt sugar can be used to heat the die up a little and the case usually drops right out.

NOT TO BE USED IF POWDER OR PRIMERS PRESENT OBVIOUSLY !!
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Old January 9, 2011, 12:06 PM   #23
milo-2
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Hornady one shot

Hornady one shot is great, but expensive. Just spray it on, if a case is hard going in, back off and spray more on. I've only stuck one case, and don't want it to happen again. You will not waste as much with a Frankford Arsenal
case loading tray.
Periodically cleaning your die really helps also, they can get alot of lube buildup in them, and old lube exposed to air gets pretty sticky.
I've noticed RCBS dies are more forgiving than say Redding dies.
Throw the lube pad away and join most of us in the 21st century.
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Old January 9, 2011, 01:45 PM   #24
wncchester
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"I've noticed RCBS dies are more forgiving than say Redding dies."

Hummm ... interesting thought. I've been doing this stuff since '65, have some 40 + die sets of various brands in 32 calibers now and had quite a few others that have been sold. I used to experiment with different case lubes and substitutes in them all so I've had a LOT of struck cases that were my own fault.

In all of that, I've never seen a difference making one brand more or less likely to stick; if cases get stuck it's due to a poor lube or poor application, period. IMHO. I now prefer a finger applied soft wax lube - Redding's Imperial, Hornady's Unique, etc. - but every commercial lube I've ever tried did well IF it was properly applied.
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Old February 22, 2011, 09:52 PM   #25
chiefr
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This is a good post. However, I would like to add that when using Mil brass you will experience far more stuck cases than you will with commercial brass.
Mil brass is intentionally alloyed softer for function in fully automatic weapons.
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