Random malfunction with my Smith 686

AERacing1813 · December 30, 2018, 03:27 PM

Hey guys, just recently I have noticed my 686 (no dash, pre lock 4") is acting funny, heres what happens, it's done it twice in the last 5 times i've been out with it, and I'm no revolver tech (yet

)

So basically, I'll be shooting it fine and randomly the hammer will become very resistant on pulling, single or double action and the cylinder lock will not allow me to release the cylinder, the only way I've managed to get the thing to break free is smacking it in my hand repeatedly. I've since then taken the gun completely apart and cleaned it all up, nothing appeared to be out of spec/very dirty inside the action, but I'm still new to the whole revolver scene.

One thing I have noticed thats different on mine compared to a new 686 is the lugs on the extractor (ratchet lugs) are more to worn, kinda have sharp edges on them, could this be my issue?

Any help appreciated! personally i'm trying to avoid an actual gun smith, as I highly enjoy working on my firearms myself, i've got the semi auto's mastered but not revolvers, yet!

**JohnKSa** · December 30, 2018, 03:33 PM

Once it breaks loose, is it "sticky" for awhile or does everything instantly go back to working perfectly?

AERacing1813 · December 30, 2018, 03:38 PM

I can't recall exactly as it's been about a month and a half since i've shot it, I want to say it went back to working perfectly, no sticky.

Sharkbite · December 30, 2018, 03:52 PM

Make sure your ejector rod is tight. They unscrew and that causes em to lengthen. This can cause things to bind

BobCat45 · December 30, 2018, 04:06 PM

S&W recalled some L-frame revolvers a long time ago, to replace the bushing in the recoil shield, through which the firing pin protrudes to hit the primer.

The firing pin hole in some bushings was a little large, allowing particularly soft primer cups to extrude back into the hole, around the firing pin nose. This could lock up the action, or cause the symptoms you describe.

If you still have the fired cases that were in the revolver when this happened, you may wish to inspect the primers for any sign of odd deformation or drag.

MSD Mike · December 30, 2018, 04:21 PM

I had a simaler problem with a K-frame. It was what Bobcat said. Primer extruding into the firing pin hole. Had to forcefully turn the cylinder by hand to break it free. You could tell by looking at the primer of a fired case. Only happened with magnum ammunition, never with 38 special. In my case the gun just has a lot of wear. several bajillion rounds at last count.

Mike

buck460XVR · December 30, 2018, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobCat45

S&W recalled some L-frame revolvers a long time ago, to replace the bushing in the recoil shield, through which the firing pin protrudes to hit the primer.

The firing pin hole in some bushings was a little large, allowing particularly soft primer cups to extrude back into the hole, around the firing pin nose. This could lock up the action, or cause the symptoms you describe.

If you still have the fired cases that were in the revolver when this happened, you may wish to inspect the primers for any sign of odd deformation or drag.

Does your No-dash 686 have a M stamped on the yoke area by the serial number? If not the issue is probably the above.

AERacing1813 · December 30, 2018, 07:43 PM

I'll have to checkout those things y'all described! I do not have it with me at the moment, it's in the safe across town... i''ll have to get back with that "M" stamp

dgludwig · December 30, 2018, 08:16 PM

Check under the star (extractor) for any sign of powder flakes/residue.

AERacing1813 · December 30, 2018, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dgludwig

Check under the star (extractor) for any sign of powder flakes/residue.

Will do!

Wyosmith · December 30, 2018, 11:29 PM

I have seen this. It's usually the cylinder stop not camming over the stop nose on the front of the trigger, when the trigger is on the return stroke.
You need to clean the inside of the action and frame and make sure the trigger nose and the stop are polished to a mirror finish where the work against each other. And stay away from lubes the gum over time

GeauxTide · December 30, 2018, 11:42 PM

Experienced this with a 19 because I was loading MAX loads with 125s.

tipoc · January 2, 2019, 11:43 PM

Look for the simple, common things because it's usually that. Eliminate those first before looking for the more complex.

tipoc

jetinteriorguy · January 5, 2019, 06:42 AM

First, check ejector Rod. If it's loose, remove it, clean it, and put the tiniest drop of BLUE loctite on it and reinstall it. But remember, it's left hand thread, not right. Second, make sure it's clean under the ejector star. These two things account for the majority of revolver malfunctions. Anything else is a problem above my pay grade, and it would be time for a trip either back to the factory for warranty or to the gunsmith.

RYNO1313 · January 6, 2019, 11:59 PM

I've had rounds come loose from crimp on recoil. Rubbed on forcing cone. Made similar issues.

Nanuk · January 7, 2019, 11:48 AM

Quote:

S&W recalled some L-frame revolvers a long time ago, to replace the bushing in the recoil shield, through which the firing pin protrudes to hit the primer.

That was only for the no-dash 686's it was corrected for the dash-1.

Quote:

I've had rounds come loose from crimp on recoil. Rubbed on forcing cone. Made similar issues.

That is not a problem with a 4" 686 unless the loads are garbage.

tipoc · January 7, 2019, 12:12 PM

No word back from the op. It's been a week since his last post.

tipoc

Dobe · January 7, 2019, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dgludwig

Check under the star (extractor) for any sign of powder flakes/residue.

Definitely seen this one

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Drm50 · January 7, 2019, 06:48 PM

I have seen a 19 seize up on primers from very light target loads. If load is not
stout enough to seal case against chamber it can back out primers. Give away on this is dirty casings and smoke when fired.

buck460XVR · January 9, 2019, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nanuk

That was only for the no-dash 686's i

This is what the OP states he has.

He has been given the most likely scenarios for the problem he is experiencing. Hopefully he will get back to us if and when he figures it out.

pete2 · January 9, 2019, 12:15 PM

Powder under extractor or loose ejector rod are most likely suspects. Both will cause binding. During a match I wipe under the extractor ever so often. It is tightly fitted, all it takes is a flake of unburned powder.

AERacing1813 · February 25, 2019, 12:58 AM

Sorry Y'all, It's been quite the push these last few months with life in general and I haven't been on the form's as much as I'd like

as an update, although I haven't had the chance to fire the gun since the original post...

the extractor rod is tight, their was a little goop under the extractor which I just cleaned out, it does have the "M" stamp on the yoke by the serial #, and I have actually took the plate off the frame and examined the internals, all seems to be straight/clean as it should be, but again I'm no revolver expert either.

Hopefully it may be just the small amount of goo under the extractor that is causing the issue, hopefully I can get out shooting within the next week or so to see! depending on how the weather stays :P

pete2 · February 26, 2019, 03:10 PM

A small amount of anything under the extractor can bind things up.

December 30, 2018, 03:27 PM	#1
AERacing1813 Member Join Date: December 26, 2018 Posts: 41	Random malfunction with my Smith 686 Hey guys, just recently I have noticed my 686 (no dash, pre lock 4") is acting funny, heres what happens, it's done it twice in the last 5 times i've been out with it, and I'm no revolver tech (yet ) So basically, I'll be shooting it fine and randomly the hammer will become very resistant on pulling, single or double action and the cylinder lock will not allow me to release the cylinder, the only way I've managed to get the thing to break free is smacking it in my hand repeatedly. I've since then taken the gun completely apart and cleaned it all up, nothing appeared to be out of spec/very dirty inside the action, but I'm still new to the whole revolver scene. One thing I have noticed thats different on mine compared to a new 686 is the lugs on the extractor (ratchet lugs) are more to worn, kinda have sharp edges on them, could this be my issue? Any help appreciated! personally i'm trying to avoid an actual gun smith, as I highly enjoy working on my firearms myself, i've got the semi auto's mastered but not revolvers, yet!

December 30, 2018, 03:33 PM	#2
JohnKSa Staff Join Date: February 12, 2001 Location: DFW Area Posts: 24,986	Once it breaks loose, is it "sticky" for awhile or does everything instantly go back to working perfectly? __________________ Do you know about the TEXAS State Rifle Association?

December 30, 2018, 08:16 PM	#9
dgludwig Senior Member Join Date: February 12, 2005 Location: North central Ohio Posts: 7,486	Check under the star (extractor) for any sign of powder flakes/residue. __________________ ONLY AN ARMED PEOPLE CAN BE TRULY FREE ; ONLY AN UNARMED PEOPLE CAN EVER BE ENSLAVED ...Aristotle NRA Benefactor Life Member

January 2, 2019, 11:43 PM	#13
tipoc Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2004 Location: Redwood City, Ca. Posts: 4,114	Look for the simple, common things because it's usually that. Eliminate those first before looking for the more complex. tipoc __________________ 1. All guns are always loaded. 2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy. 3. Keep your finger off the trigger till you are ready to shoot. 4. Identify your target and know what is beyond it.

January 7, 2019, 12:12 PM	#17
tipoc Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2004 Location: Redwood City, Ca. Posts: 4,114	No word back from the op. It's been a week since his last post. tipoc __________________ 1. All guns are always loaded. 2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy. 3. Keep your finger off the trigger till you are ready to shoot. 4. Identify your target and know what is beyond it.

December 30, 2018, 03:38 PM	#3
AERacing1813 Member Join Date: December 26, 2018 Posts: 41	I can't recall exactly as it's been about a month and a half since i've shot it, I want to say it went back to working perfectly, no sticky.

December 30, 2018, 03:52 PM	#4
Sharkbite Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2013 Location: Western slope of Colorado Posts: 3,679	Make sure your ejector rod is tight. They unscrew and that causes em to lengthen. This can cause things to bind

December 30, 2018, 04:06 PM	#5
BobCat45 Senior Member Join Date: May 18, 2004 Location: East Bernard, TX Posts: 523	S&W recalled some L-frame revolvers a long time ago, to replace the bushing in the recoil shield, through which the firing pin protrudes to hit the primer. The firing pin hole in some bushings was a little large, allowing particularly soft primer cups to extrude back into the hole, around the firing pin nose. This could lock up the action, or cause the symptoms you describe. If you still have the fired cases that were in the revolver when this happened, you may wish to inspect the primers for any sign of odd deformation or drag.

December 30, 2018, 04:21 PM	#6
MSD Mike Senior Member Join Date: October 16, 2009 Posts: 212	I had a simaler problem with a K-frame. It was what Bobcat said. Primer extruding into the firing pin hole. Had to forcefully turn the cylinder by hand to break it free. You could tell by looking at the primer of a fired case. Only happened with magnum ammunition, never with 38 special. In my case the gun just has a lot of wear. several bajillion rounds at last count. Mike

December 30, 2018, 07:43 PM	#8
AERacing1813 Member Join Date: December 26, 2018 Posts: 41	I'll have to checkout those things y'all described! I do not have it with me at the moment, it's in the safe across town... i''ll have to get back with that "M" stamp

December 30, 2018, 11:29 PM	#11
Wyosmith Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2010 Location: Shoshoni Wyoming Posts: 2,713	I have seen this. It's usually the cylinder stop not camming over the stop nose on the front of the trigger, when the trigger is on the return stroke. You need to clean the inside of the action and frame and make sure the trigger nose and the stop are polished to a mirror finish where the work against each other. And stay away from lubes the gum over time

December 30, 2018, 11:42 PM	#12
GeauxTide Senior Member Join Date: April 20, 2009 Location: Helena, AL Posts: 4,424	Experienced this with a 19 because I was loading MAX loads with 125s.

January 5, 2019, 06:42 AM	#14
jetinteriorguy Senior Member Join Date: April 28, 2013 Posts: 3,175	First, check ejector Rod. If it's loose, remove it, clean it, and put the tiniest drop of BLUE loctite on it and reinstall it. But remember, it's left hand thread, not right. Second, make sure it's clean under the ejector star. These two things account for the majority of revolver malfunctions. Anything else is a problem above my pay grade, and it would be time for a trip either back to the factory for warranty or to the gunsmith.

January 6, 2019, 11:59 PM	#15
RYNO1313 Junior Member Join Date: January 6, 2019 Posts: 1	I've had rounds come loose from crimp on recoil. Rubbed on forcing cone. Made similar issues.

January 7, 2019, 06:48 PM	#19
Drm50 Senior Member Join Date: November 10, 2014 Posts: 1,380	I have seen a 19 seize up on primers from very light target loads. If load is not stout enough to seal case against chamber it can back out primers. Give away on this is dirty casings and smoke when fired.

January 9, 2019, 12:15 PM	#21
pete2 Senior Member Join Date: May 15, 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 2,566	Powder under extractor or loose ejector rod are most likely suspects. Both will cause binding. During a match I wipe under the extractor ever so often. It is tightly fitted, all it takes is a flake of unburned powder.

February 25, 2019, 12:58 AM	#22
AERacing1813 Member Join Date: December 26, 2018 Posts: 41	Sorry Y'all, It's been quite the push these last few months with life in general and I haven't been on the form's as much as I'd like as an update, although I haven't had the chance to fire the gun since the original post... the extractor rod is tight, their was a little goop under the extractor which I just cleaned out, it does have the "M" stamp on the yoke by the serial #, and I have actually took the plate off the frame and examined the internals, all seems to be straight/clean as it should be, but again I'm no revolver expert either. Hopefully it may be just the small amount of goo under the extractor that is causing the issue, hopefully I can get out shooting within the next week or so to see! depending on how the weather stays :P

February 26, 2019, 03:10 PM	#23
pete2 Senior Member Join Date: May 15, 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 2,566	A small amount of anything under the extractor can bind things up.