Home made hollowpoints?

red caddy · September 28, 2009, 02:04 PM

I've got a quantity of Hornady # 3015 110 Gr round nose bullets that I want to turn into 75 to 85 Gr. hollow points. This is a jacketed bullet with an exposed lead nose, not a half jacket like the Speer "plinker".

How is this best done?

I'm experimenting with my .30 carbine Ruger Black hawk and a CZ-52, (7.62 X 25 TOK) looking for a high velocity,(1500 to 2000 FPS) light weight, frangible load with accuracy suited for varmints under 100 Yds.
I already have an accurate load for the Black hawk using a Speer 110 gr HPBT, at 1300 FPS, works well on hogs but is over penetrating on smaller stuff, like feral dogs and 'yotes.

The 85Gr FMJ in the TOK, at 1625 FPS, Is just punching nice clean holes thru and thru, seemingly, without doing much damage. They die, but I much prefer DRT (dead right there) kills to a long lingering death, even for varmints. Thanks, Paul

emcon5 · September 28, 2009, 03:00 PM

Quote:

How is this best done?

With a CNC milling machine.

Concentricity and uniformity will be a S.O.B. doing it by hand.

SKULLANDCROSSBONES65 · September 28, 2009, 03:08 PM

G'day.
Sell them and put the $ towards the projectiles you want.

Brian Pfleuger · September 28, 2009, 03:09 PM

Well, you could mount a shell holder in something that could be fixed below a drill press and then set the press (most of them have stops) to only go down a certain distance.... that would go a long ways toward helping consistency.

However, the internal construction of those bullets is likely (highly likely) to be different than the construction of hollow point bullets. In other words, they may not (probably won't) expand very well or very reliably even if you get the hole right.

You're best bet is to buy hollow point bullets.

NickySantoro · September 28, 2009, 03:09 PM

Home made hollowpoints?

There's a lot more to making a reliable HP than drilling a hole.

T/C Hunter · September 28, 2009, 05:30 PM

Yea sell them and just get what you would rather have. It really isn't worth the time to make them into hollow points. I'm sure it would be cheaper just to get what you really want Vrs messing around with drilling and weighing out a bunch of old bullets you just want to use up. Trade them ??

islander · September 28, 2009, 06:57 PM

The Forster case trimmer has a drill bit attachment that replaces the trim cutter, made for drilling out your own hollow points.

red caddy · September 28, 2009, 09:06 PM

Thanks for the quick reply's guy's.

The lightest .30 cal. bullets I can find are the 85 Gr. FMJ for the 7.62 X 25 TOK, I want to try at least 25 Gr. lighter. I believe even a poorly made hollow point will expand or shatter above 1600 FPS, a speed I feel would be easily reached with the case capicity of the 2 rounds in question. If the "sweet spot" for accuracy will cut 3 or 4 MOA they will be good enough for thier intended purpose.

I'm trying to find the sweet spot with a 50 Gr. .223 in a plastic sabot, from the .30 Carbine, but there's not much load data availible to start from and none at all for the sabot in the X25 TOK. Anybody have any experience to share?

Is the forster trimmer setup designed to drill a loaded round? Can you give me any more info/experience with the process ? Thanks, Paul

islander · September 28, 2009, 09:49 PM

Yes it's designed to hollow point loaded ammo:
http://www.forsterproducts.com/catal...?prodid=627337

Here's a youtube video using an "improvised" method of hollow pointing with a case trimmer and a standard drill bit:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEsTD8CJzAg

The Forster method is engineered and would probably give you better centering, I have the setup but have yet to try it.

mapsjanhere · September 29, 2009, 07:19 AM

Hmm, how about sizing down some .32? You can get 60 grain HP in 312 and run it through a 308 sizing die if you had a good press.

griz · September 29, 2009, 07:28 AM

Hornady makes a 60 Gr JHP that might be what you are looking for. It's a 32 instead of 30, not sure which you need.

red caddy · September 29, 2009, 12:30 PM

Again, thanks for the input.

I just put the Forster tool on order, it looks, to me, like the best way to accurately drill a hollow point.

The reason I selected the 110 gr. soft nose was because I wanted the longer length, hoping it would be more stable in flight. So I'm gonna try it any way. The OAL shouldn't be an issue in the Blackhawk, but it might be in the TOK. I'm currently building an H&R handi-rifle in 7.62 X 25 TOKerev so if it's too long for the CZ-52, I'll still have a way to wring it out.

That 60 gr. .32 looks real interesting, now I have an excuse to buy a .308 swedge die, LOL. .312 to .308 shouldn't be much of a problem, will it?

Does anybody have a pet load for that 110 gr.bullit in a .308? Might make a nice, soft shooting varmint round or a youth deer killer. Thanks, Paul.

koolminx · September 29, 2009, 12:48 PM

Longer slug with a hole in the end not designed to be there ballistic wise can have stability issues, yeah?
Like Possibly catch air and tumble? Or am I way off the mark?

Long thin light tip could be effected a LOT more than long thin and heavy tipped can't it?

September 28, 2009, 02:04 PM	#1
red caddy Senior Member Join Date: August 17, 2009 Location: South West Florida Posts: 139	Home made hollowpoints? I've got a quantity of Hornady # 3015 110 Gr round nose bullets that I want to turn into 75 to 85 Gr. hollow points. This is a jacketed bullet with an exposed lead nose, not a half jacket like the Speer "plinker". How is this best done? I'm experimenting with my .30 carbine Ruger Black hawk and a CZ-52, (7.62 X 25 TOK) looking for a high velocity,(1500 to 2000 FPS) light weight, frangible load with accuracy suited for varmints under 100 Yds. I already have an accurate load for the Black hawk using a Speer 110 gr HPBT, at 1300 FPS, works well on hogs but is over penetrating on smaller stuff, like feral dogs and 'yotes. The 85Gr FMJ in the TOK, at 1625 FPS, Is just punching nice clean holes thru and thru, seemingly, without doing much damage. They die, but I much prefer DRT (dead right there) kills to a long lingering death, even for varmints. Thanks, Paul

September 28, 2009, 03:08 PM	#3
SKULLANDCROSSBONES65 Senior Member Join Date: August 19, 2008 Location: Far Nth Wst QLD Australia Posts: 992	G'day. Sell them and put the $ towards the projectiles you want. __________________ If you're not confused, you're not trying hard enough! When you're confused, I'll try to use smaller words!!!

September 28, 2009, 03:09 PM	#4
Brian Pfleuger Moderator Emeritus Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Austin, CO Posts: 19,578	Well, you could mount a shell holder in something that could be fixed below a drill press and then set the press (most of them have stops) to only go down a certain distance.... that would go a long ways toward helping consistency. However, the internal construction of those bullets is likely (highly likely) to be different than the construction of hollow point bullets. In other words, they may not (probably won't) expand very well or very reliably even if you get the hole right. You're best bet is to buy hollow point bullets. __________________ Nobody plans to screw up their lives... ...they just don't plan not to. -Andy Stanley

September 28, 2009, 09:49 PM	#9
islander Member Join Date: July 30, 2009 Posts: 42	Yes it's designed to hollow point loaded ammo: http://www.forsterproducts.com/catal...?prodid=627337 Here's a youtube video using an "improvised" method of hollow pointing with a case trimmer and a standard drill bit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEsTD8CJzAg The Forster method is engineered and would probably give you better centering, I have the setup but have yet to try it. Last edited by islander; September 28, 2009 at 09:58 PM.

September 29, 2009, 07:19 AM	#10
mapsjanhere Senior Member Join Date: August 6, 2009 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 2,832	Hmm, how about sizing down some .32? You can get 60 grain HP in 312 and run it through a 308 sizing die if you had a good press. __________________ I used to love being able to hit hard at 1000 yards. As I get older I find hitting a mini ram at 200 yards with the 22 oddly more satisfying.

September 28, 2009, 03:09 PM	#5
NickySantoro Junior member Join Date: July 14, 2008 Posts: 217	Home made hollowpoints? There's a lot more to making a reliable HP than drilling a hole.

September 28, 2009, 05:30 PM	#6
T/C Hunter Member Join Date: August 31, 2007 Location: Trumansburg New York Posts: 61	Yea sell them and just get what you would rather have. It really isn't worth the time to make them into hollow points. I'm sure it would be cheaper just to get what you really want Vrs messing around with drilling and weighing out a bunch of old bullets you just want to use up. Trade them ??

September 28, 2009, 06:57 PM	#7
islander Member Join Date: July 30, 2009 Posts: 42	The Forster case trimmer has a drill bit attachment that replaces the trim cutter, made for drilling out your own hollow points.

September 28, 2009, 09:06 PM	#8
red caddy Senior Member Join Date: August 17, 2009 Location: South West Florida Posts: 139	Thanks for the quick reply's guy's. The lightest .30 cal. bullets I can find are the 85 Gr. FMJ for the 7.62 X 25 TOK, I want to try at least 25 Gr. lighter. I believe even a poorly made hollow point will expand or shatter above 1600 FPS, a speed I feel would be easily reached with the case capicity of the 2 rounds in question. If the "sweet spot" for accuracy will cut 3 or 4 MOA they will be good enough for thier intended purpose. I'm trying to find the sweet spot with a 50 Gr. .223 in a plastic sabot, from the .30 Carbine, but there's not much load data availible to start from and none at all for the sabot in the X25 TOK. Anybody have any experience to share? Is the forster trimmer setup designed to drill a loaded round? Can you give me any more info/experience with the process ? Thanks, Paul

September 29, 2009, 07:28 AM	#11
griz Senior Member Join Date: July 31, 2000 Location: Middle Peninsula, VA Posts: 1,588	Hornady makes a 60 Gr JHP that might be what you are looking for. It's a 32 instead of 30, not sure which you need.

September 29, 2009, 12:30 PM	#12
red caddy Senior Member Join Date: August 17, 2009 Location: South West Florida Posts: 139	Again, thanks for the input. I just put the Forster tool on order, it looks, to me, like the best way to accurately drill a hollow point. The reason I selected the 110 gr. soft nose was because I wanted the longer length, hoping it would be more stable in flight. So I'm gonna try it any way. The OAL shouldn't be an issue in the Blackhawk, but it might be in the TOK. I'm currently building an H&R handi-rifle in 7.62 X 25 TOKerev so if it's too long for the CZ-52, I'll still have a way to wring it out. That 60 gr. .32 looks real interesting, now I have an excuse to buy a .308 swedge die, LOL. .312 to .308 shouldn't be much of a problem, will it? Does anybody have a pet load for that 110 gr.bullit in a .308? Might make a nice, soft shooting varmint round or a youth deer killer. Thanks, Paul.

September 29, 2009, 12:48 PM	#13
koolminx Senior Member Join Date: January 12, 2009 Posts: 520	Longer slug with a hole in the end not designed to be there ballistic wise can have stability issues, yeah? Like Possibly catch air and tumble? Or am I way off the mark? Long thin light tip could be effected a LOT more than long thin and heavy tipped can't it?