receiver screws

2bac 2 · October 16, 2007, 04:08 PM

Any advice on difficult receiver screw removal on an older rifle?
Thanks

DWARREN123 · October 16, 2007, 06:53 PM

A pentrating oil and/or heat from hair dyer or direct contact from soldering iron.

2bac 2 · October 17, 2007, 06:19 AM

Thanks DWARREN. Have used oil. Will try heating methods. Head also partially stripped (not by me).

fisherman66 · October 17, 2007, 06:28 AM

After heat you can put electrical tape over a screwdriver and tap the screw lightly using a hammer over the screwdriver. Compressed air (upside down) will cool the screw and heat on the nut will expand it making it easier. Not always an easy trick to do. Last option I can think of is drilling the screw out. I hate rusted screws.

James K · October 17, 2007, 09:04 PM

Do you have access to a drill press? If so, here is a method that often works.

Get a short screwdriver blade of the right size. Those tips of screwdriver sets work well, as do tips sold for use with power drivers. As a last resort, you can cut a couple of inches off a regular screwdriver and use that.

Chuck the driver tip into the drill press chuck.

Now, pad the drill press vise or get someone to hold the rifle down in a padded rest on the press table. Line the screw up with the driver, and bring the driver down to the screw, making sure the driver blade is in the slot. Hold the press down or lock it. Then work the chuck back and forth. No guarantee, but most screws will come free with this technique. If they won't, there is probably little hope except the drill.

The explanation is that most screws are buggered because the driver tries to slip out, not because the screw won't turn. The drill press keeps the driver blade in the slot and it can't slip out. Either the blade will break, the screw will break, or the screw will turn.

FWIW, the same technique works with frozen percussion nipples, using a nipple wrench in the chuck.

Jim

Jim

2bac 2 · October 18, 2007, 09:52 AM

Thanks fisherman
Thanks Jim
I will try these methods

October 16, 2007, 04:08 PM	#1
2bac 2 Junior Member Join Date: March 13, 2005 Posts: 6	receiver screws Any advice on difficult receiver screw removal on an older rifle? Thanks

October 16, 2007, 06:53 PM	#2
DWARREN123 Senior Member Join Date: January 22, 2006 Location: BETWEEN TN & KY Posts: 1,758	A pentrating oil and/or heat from hair dyer or direct contact from soldering iron. __________________ Have a nice day!

October 17, 2007, 06:28 AM	#4
fisherman66 Senior Member Join Date: August 22, 2005 Location: The Woodlands TX Posts: 4,679	After heat you can put electrical tape over a screwdriver and tap the screw lightly using a hammer over the screwdriver. Compressed air (upside down) will cool the screw and heat on the nut will expand it making it easier. Not always an easy trick to do. Last option I can think of is drilling the screw out. I hate rusted screws. __________________ la plus belle des ruses du diable est de vous persuader qu'il n'existe pas!

October 17, 2007, 06:19 AM	#3
2bac 2 Junior Member Join Date: March 13, 2005 Posts: 6	Thanks DWARREN. Have used oil. Will try heating methods. Head also partially stripped (not by me).

October 17, 2007, 09:04 PM	#5
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Do you have access to a drill press? If so, here is a method that often works. Get a short screwdriver blade of the right size. Those tips of screwdriver sets work well, as do tips sold for use with power drivers. As a last resort, you can cut a couple of inches off a regular screwdriver and use that. Chuck the driver tip into the drill press chuck. Now, pad the drill press vise or get someone to hold the rifle down in a padded rest on the press table. Line the screw up with the driver, and bring the driver down to the screw, making sure the driver blade is in the slot. Hold the press down or lock it. Then work the chuck back and forth. No guarantee, but most screws will come free with this technique. If they won't, there is probably little hope except the drill. The explanation is that most screws are buggered because the driver tries to slip out, not because the screw won't turn. The drill press keeps the driver blade in the slot and it can't slip out. Either the blade will break, the screw will break, or the screw will turn. FWIW, the same technique works with frozen percussion nipples, using a nipple wrench in the chuck. Jim Jim

October 18, 2007, 09:52 AM	#6
2bac 2 Junior Member Join Date: March 13, 2005 Posts: 6	Thanks fisherman Thanks Jim I will try these methods