reloading newbie

richja10 · October 9, 2013, 10:48 PM

Hey what's up? I'm obviously new to reloading. Ive been loading since spring 2013 and have been doing pretty good, but I have a few questions for you.
1. How many times can you reload 223 & 243 cases? I have a set of 120 of each that I've loaded 4 times. I wanted to keep using these to actually see how many times they could be loaded. But this dude at one of my ranges told me that if I load them more than 5 times one of them will get stuck in the chamber and cause me to scrap the barrel.
2. Will nickle plated cases last longer?
3. Is it possible that my starting loads for 243 are exponentially more accurate than anything hotter? This seems to be happening with all the different powders and bullet wait and types. I was under the impression that the closer you get to the max is that much more accurate?
4. And this is kinda scary..I can't tell if any round that I've made thus far has exhibited signs of over pressure. My primers for my 700 always look a little cratered but I showed o bunch of guys my cases and they all say the 700's firing pins hit hard, and other 700's looked similar. But my cases all look brand new.
5. Are compressed loads dangerous? So far I've shyed away from them.
6. If you have a 64 grain bullet that you just don't see any loads for- Can you use the charge for a 65 grain bullet?
7. Last one guys. If you find a load for let's say h4350 and a 90 grain hornady vmax. Can you use the same load but with a 90 grain sierra? To me it would seem OK to do but I want to aire on the side of caution.

I posted a thread for a different problem and everyone was so helpful. I can't wait to hear what you have to say

PA-Joe · October 10, 2013, 06:24 AM

1. 5-10 times
2. No nickel will crack sooner.
3. Yes that is why we say start low and work up until you see the change in group diameters.
4. Very hard to tell. You may notice flattening around the outside the primer. But as you have already found out you don't need hot loads.
5. Depends on powder.
6. You should always start low and work up. COL will be different each time you changes bullet types or maker.
7. Same as 6.

oldpapps · October 10, 2013, 06:42 AM

I agree with PA-Joe but would like to elaborate just a little on a few items.

1. Many things come into play on this one. Chamber size, degree of sizing between shots and the big one, intensity of the loadings. Slipping over into #2 a little, I have .45 ACP brass that was nickel plated but the nickle has worn off with repeated reloading. One of my 'always' actions when prepping my bottle necked brass is to run a hook down inside each case and feel the area just in front of the case web. If it is rough, that case is scrap. This is where head separation occurs. As far as the yoyo that told you you would have to scrap your barrel, 75% or so of the time the separated case will fall out or be caught on the next round in an auto loader. Even if it doesn't, a 'broken case remover' works well.

PA-Joe nailed the rest without me sticking my nose in at all.

Read and then re-read loading books. If in question about some aspect, don't do it, find the answer, it is much safer that way.

Load with care and enjoy.

OSOK

dahermit · October 10, 2013, 06:56 AM

Quote:

1. How many times can you reload 223 & 243 cases? I have a set of 120 of each that I've loaded 4 times. I wanted to keep using these to actually see how many times they could be loaded. But this dude at one of my ranges told me that if I load them more than 5 times one of them will get stuck in the chamber and cause me to scrap the barrel.

You can load them until the primer pockets become too loose to hold a primer. The number of hand loads that you will be able to get from a case is dependent upon how hot the load is...lighter loads, longer case life. Loading them more than five times will not cause them to stick in the chamber, or bench-rest competitors (and a whole lot of us here), would constantly have stuck cases in their rifles.
However, a legitimate concern is, when full-length sizing, the case will stretch and eventually cause a case-head separation, resulting the the case, minus head, being left in the chamber.

richja10 · October 10, 2013, 07:00 AM

Hey Thanx for the info. I've tried sticking a pick in the cases to feel that area near the head and I gotta tell you o don't notice a difference yet. I know on my last trip to the range I had 2 loads in particular that were near max and the bolt was hard to open so I stopped with those. That's the only pressure sign I've noticed.

Heres another one. I have rcbs dies and press. I've read that there is supposed to be a vent hole on the die that u have to keep clean. I can't see one. Does anyone know where it is? And how do you guys remove live primers from a bullet you had to pull.

cw308 · October 10, 2013, 08:14 AM

It is on the threaded area on your die, also you don't remove the primer when pulling the bullet. There is a tool ( bullet puller) looks like a hammer, holds the casing in place & when you strike the hammer down the bullet & powder will come out inside of the hollow hammer. This tool is a must when reloading.

Rimfire5 · October 10, 2013, 09:22 AM

I have had better case life with Lapua brass than with any other brass.
It may be expensive, but I find that it lasts longer and eventually pays for itself.
I have gotten up to 15 reloads with Lapua brass for my .223 with no loss in accuracy.

I haven't noticed the primer pockets getting loose with Lapua brass even after a lot of reloads.
The necks weaken at about that number of resizes and you can feel that the bullet seating seems easier than normal with some of the cases. That is the time I retire them and buy more Lapua brass.

With some of the brass I used before I switched to Lapua I did notice the primer pockets getting loose. I also got some neck splits with the other brass after 6 to 8 reloads.

histed · October 11, 2013, 08:11 PM

One of your questions asked about using the same powder charge for two different bullets of the same weight. PA joe's answer is correct, but here's why. Without getting overly technical (which is what manuals are for) different manufacturers make bullets to different specs. Different jacket materials, varying jacket thickness, different ogive, hollow point v spire point v ballistic tip.... Every one will create its own pressure curve unique to that bullet, so, while X grains of Hobogin 9000 MAY work fine for both a 55gr Varmagedon and a 55 gr Varmint grenade, it also MAY NOT be safe, especially if you're near maximum powder charge. Same thing holds true for changing any component, but especially bullets and primers. Work up new loading data for ever bullet weight/primer/powder you use for every gun you use. Enjoy the journey - the destination comes too soon.

October 9, 2013, 10:48 PM	#1
richja10 Junior Member Join Date: September 17, 2013 Posts: 10	reloading newbie Hey what's up? I'm obviously new to reloading. Ive been loading since spring 2013 and have been doing pretty good, but I have a few questions for you. 1. How many times can you reload 223 & 243 cases? I have a set of 120 of each that I've loaded 4 times. I wanted to keep using these to actually see how many times they could be loaded. But this dude at one of my ranges told me that if I load them more than 5 times one of them will get stuck in the chamber and cause me to scrap the barrel. 2. Will nickle plated cases last longer? 3. Is it possible that my starting loads for 243 are exponentially more accurate than anything hotter? This seems to be happening with all the different powders and bullet wait and types. I was under the impression that the closer you get to the max is that much more accurate? 4. And this is kinda scary..I can't tell if any round that I've made thus far has exhibited signs of over pressure. My primers for my 700 always look a little cratered but I showed o bunch of guys my cases and they all say the 700's firing pins hit hard, and other 700's looked similar. But my cases all look brand new. 5. Are compressed loads dangerous? So far I've shyed away from them. 6. If you have a 64 grain bullet that you just don't see any loads for- Can you use the charge for a 65 grain bullet? 7. Last one guys. If you find a load for let's say h4350 and a 90 grain hornady vmax. Can you use the same load but with a 90 grain sierra? To me it would seem OK to do but I want to aire on the side of caution. I posted a thread for a different problem and everyone was so helpful. I can't wait to hear what you have to say

October 11, 2013, 08:11 PM	#8
histed Senior Member Join Date: April 9, 2013 Location: Central PA Posts: 254	One of your questions asked about using the same powder charge for two different bullets of the same weight. PA joe's answer is correct, but here's why. Without getting overly technical (which is what manuals are for) different manufacturers make bullets to different specs. Different jacket materials, varying jacket thickness, different ogive, hollow point v spire point v ballistic tip.... Every one will create its own pressure curve unique to that bullet, so, while X grains of Hobogin 9000 MAY work fine for both a 55gr Varmagedon and a 55 gr Varmint grenade, it also MAY NOT be safe, especially if you're near maximum powder charge. Same thing holds true for changing any component, but especially bullets and primers. Work up new loading data for ever bullet weight/primer/powder you use for every gun you use. Enjoy the journey - the destination comes too soon. __________________ You Have enemies? Good. That means that you've stood up for something in your life. --Winston Churchill The right to buy weapons is the right to be free. -- A.E. Van Vogt

October 10, 2013, 06:24 AM	#2
PA-Joe Senior Member Join Date: June 9, 2010 Location: NEPA Posts: 909	1. 5-10 times 2. No nickel will crack sooner. 3. Yes that is why we say start low and work up until you see the change in group diameters. 4. Very hard to tell. You may notice flattening around the outside the primer. But as you have already found out you don't need hot loads. 5. Depends on powder. 6. You should always start low and work up. COL will be different each time you changes bullet types or maker. 7. Same as 6.

October 10, 2013, 06:42 AM	#3
oldpapps Senior Member Join Date: September 22, 2011 Location: Middle America Posts: 518	I agree with PA-Joe but would like to elaborate just a little on a few items. 1. Many things come into play on this one. Chamber size, degree of sizing between shots and the big one, intensity of the loadings. Slipping over into #2 a little, I have .45 ACP brass that was nickel plated but the nickle has worn off with repeated reloading. One of my 'always' actions when prepping my bottle necked brass is to run a hook down inside each case and feel the area just in front of the case web. If it is rough, that case is scrap. This is where head separation occurs. As far as the yoyo that told you you would have to scrap your barrel, 75% or so of the time the separated case will fall out or be caught on the next round in an auto loader. Even if it doesn't, a 'broken case remover' works well. PA-Joe nailed the rest without me sticking my nose in at all. Read and then re-read loading books. If in question about some aspect, don't do it, find the answer, it is much safer that way. Load with care and enjoy. OSOK

October 10, 2013, 07:00 AM	#5
richja10 Junior Member Join Date: September 17, 2013 Posts: 10	Hey Thanx for the info. I've tried sticking a pick in the cases to feel that area near the head and I gotta tell you o don't notice a difference yet. I know on my last trip to the range I had 2 loads in particular that were near max and the bolt was hard to open so I stopped with those. That's the only pressure sign I've noticed. Heres another one. I have rcbs dies and press. I've read that there is supposed to be a vent hole on the die that u have to keep clean. I can't see one. Does anyone know where it is? And how do you guys remove live primers from a bullet you had to pull.

October 10, 2013, 08:14 AM	#6
cw308 Senior Member Join Date: September 2, 2010 Location: Plainview , Long Island NY Posts: 3,863	It is on the threaded area on your die, also you don't remove the primer when pulling the bullet. There is a tool ( bullet puller) looks like a hammer, holds the casing in place & when you strike the hammer down the bullet & powder will come out inside of the hollow hammer. This tool is a must when reloading.

October 10, 2013, 09:22 AM	#7
Rimfire5 Senior Member Join Date: January 2, 2009 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 923	I have had better case life with Lapua brass than with any other brass. It may be expensive, but I find that it lasts longer and eventually pays for itself. I have gotten up to 15 reloads with Lapua brass for my .223 with no loss in accuracy. I haven't noticed the primer pockets getting loose with Lapua brass even after a lot of reloads. The necks weaken at about that number of resizes and you can feel that the bullet seating seems easier than normal with some of the cases. That is the time I retire them and buy more Lapua brass. With some of the brass I used before I switched to Lapua I did notice the primer pockets getting loose. I also got some neck splits with the other brass after 6 to 8 reloads.