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Old October 27, 2013, 04:44 PM   #51
nate_g_2003
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I disassembled mine yesterday. It didn't look like it had been disassembled recently, but it may have. My barrel (under the top handguard) was marked KO-91/30 Made in Russia, with some other marks and the caliber.
I googled KO-91/30 and apparently it is some sort if importer mark (Molot) from what I can tell, even though it has the PW Arms etching as well. The stock has a lot of cosmoline, but I started floating the barrel. Once I can get the cosmoline out if the stock, I'm sure it will sand much easier and faster.

I also cleaned it thoroughly, and the barrel was really nasty. 4-5 black patches with Hoppes #9. I'm ready to hit the range and try it out!
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Old October 27, 2013, 11:11 PM   #52
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Molot is a former soviet arms factory. They processed the rifles from long term storage, and boxed them up as "hunting rifles" so they could get around restrictions on shipping military weapons across the EU.

PW arms is the importer.

That long skinny barrel may not like to be free floated. There is a Soviet manual that shows wrapping the barrel in oiled felt under the handguard near the front band, and some people have also used cork in the same area to make a pressure point. You can move it around to see what the rifle likes the best.
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Old October 28, 2013, 05:28 AM   #53
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I used the cork method, after free floating it. I put a little piece under the barrell at the very end of the stock. The groups did tighten nicely, and brought me a little close to center.
Every time I disassemble the gun, I soak that piece of cork in wd40 to keep it flexible and to prevente moisture buildup in there when everything is put together.
Check out some of the threads from a few months ago. Lots of good info.
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Old October 28, 2013, 09:46 AM   #54
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Thanks for the info guys. I had seen somewhere about an attempt to float a M-N, using a dollar bill as a guide. I'm not sure if it was the stock itself, or the cosmoline (probably a little of both), but the dollar bill was having a heck of a time moving with the action screwed into the stock. I'll keep the felt and cork in mind, and go looking for those threads.
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Old October 28, 2013, 11:23 AM   #55
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I'll keep the felt and cork in mind, and go looking for those threads.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...96#post5624996

There are several threads on the Gunboards forums on the subject. You may need to be a member to view the images.

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...ting-quot-Book

http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...g-and-shimming
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Old November 2, 2013, 04:40 PM   #56
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OK, I now have a Mosin. Apparently from Century Arms. Have the cleaning rod, the little tool kit but mine has one less item than in the video linked below. I have the little container with double caps-- anyone know why the two screw-on caps on the container?
New serial number done by laser. Older number stamped on bolt and receiver match-- MYXXXX-- 4 digits after the MY. Serial number on the bayonet does not match at all. The bayonet looks to be unused-- black all over. The numbers 1943 are also on the receiver-- is that the date? Is 1943 good or bad?

Did preliminary cleaning with just paper towels due to the press of time today. I know that photos are often requested but I am not good with photos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbibUKGlPiM

What can you tell me?
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Old November 2, 2013, 05:20 PM   #57
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Post a photo of the barrel stub, where the date is, we can tell you more. 1943 means wartime production, generally speaking the exterior of the receiver is a little less "finished" than pre-war rifles.

Here are a pair of Izhevsk Mosins, denoted by the triangle with arrow. Compare the receiver machining, look how rough the 1943 is compared with the 1939. It doesn't effect how the rifle functions, but you can tell they took less time on the wartime example.



And a 43 Tula with the star/arrow. It is a PU Sniper, that is why the "CH" and extra S/N.



The container has two caps because it has two compartments, it was designed so one side had bore cleaner, the other oil.

Lots of info on barrel markings here: http://www.7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinRef02.htm

And accessories here: http://www.7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinAcc.htm
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Old November 2, 2013, 06:22 PM   #58
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The1943 photo you posted looks like mine, including the mark after the "3".
Thanks for the information.
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Old November 5, 2013, 12:19 PM   #59
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Watch the Mosin Nagant videos on the YouTube channel below. He is an expert on Mosins, and has been collecting them since the early 1980's. His videos are the best out there. Don’t skip over the bolt videos.

http://www.youtube.com/user/RockIsla...y=mosin+nagant

I cleaned the metal parts with mineral spirits. Probably the best method for cleaning the grease off the metal parts. Do not get any mineral spirits on the wood. A hair dryer works on the wood.

Cleanup after shooting corrosive ammo isn’t bad at all. Run hot water thru the barrel, then dry patch, then Hoppe’s 9, or your favorite solvent, then finish with a patch of oil. You can get surplus ammo for about $0.22 per round. Prvi Partizan for about $0.80 per round. Surplus 7.62x54R is easier to find and cheaper than .22 LR.
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Old November 5, 2013, 01:41 PM   #60
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The guy in the video shooting the antelope with a Mosin Nagant last week got his first 91/30 for $7 from a barrel of them in the hardware store 50 years ago.

I have been doing MN amateur gunsmithing with him for ~ 12 years.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1S7vdJVDSNQ
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Old November 6, 2013, 09:35 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opinated
The1943 photo you posted looks like mine, including the mark after the "3".
That is the Cyrillic letter abbreviation for the Russian word "god".

In other words, Anno Domini. 1943AD. No idea why they did that, seems kind of silly, since I don't think there would be any doubt of that. Not like they were making Mosins in 1943 BC.
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Old November 7, 2013, 11:51 PM   #62
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Had a few more moments today to work on the rifle. The buttplate and magazine bottom serial numbers match, so all 4 places match. The stock has one small round patch/plug, about 5 to 6mm dia. On the left side just above the trigger.
I wiped with paper towels every bit of the grease that I could see and reach. Took the thing apart. The rings that hold the upper wooden heat shield were very difficult to get off. More about that later. Wiping is the only cleaning of the stock thus far.
The hot water bath is not suitable for my situation but probably is one of the better methods. I used the aerosol brake cleaner on the metal parts. The bad part is that it messes up the black paint on the aforementioned rings and on the magazine housing. Mineral spirits would have been better but more work.
Someone wrote that mineral spirits should not be used on the stock. Most cured finishes are not affected by mineral spirits and if this resists oils, the spirits should not hurt it. Turpentine would be unlikely to harm cured finishes. Other solvents, especially aromatic hydrocarbons, probably would ruin it. I may test that theory soon.
On the underside of the receiver, buried in the stock when assembled, was another serial number, a different number from the other 4. It looks to be done at the same time as the other 4. ???
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Old November 8, 2013, 09:54 AM   #63
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Nice score to have all the metal numbers match. I was 3 for 4 on mine, the mag bottom was a strike through. Not sure on the stock number though, I've never heard of it.

I'm sure you probably have heard of it, but I'll mention it anyway: to get the cosmo off/out of the stock, try wrapping it in newspaper, and putting it in a black trash bag, set in the sun. That might help get a lot of it out.

I'm waiting on a good, sunny weekend to try that method. The barrel channel is pretty sticky on mine.
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Old November 8, 2013, 02:58 PM   #64
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"I'm sure you probably have heard of it, but I'll mention it anyway: to get the cosmo off/out of the stock, try wrapping it in newspaper, and putting it in a black trash bag, set in the sun. That might help get a lot of it out.

I'm waiting on a good, sunny weekend to try that method. The barrel channel is pretty sticky on mine. "

Colder has set in here. For the moment, wiping off all that can be seen is the process. Whatever is wiped off is gone. Makes for less to be dealt with later.
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Old November 22, 2013, 12:39 PM   #65
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Comment and question: The mineral spirits (the kind that smells) does slowly remove the cosmo residue from the stock with no damage to the finish.
On ammo for the M-N, anyone able to interpret the markings on the crate and cans? A78-75-60 BT 85/74 C.
Paper sticker on the can, as close as our alphabet can come to the Cryillic characters: Kohtpoab OTK No.5007
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Old November 22, 2013, 01:10 PM   #66
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i know the conversation has changed, just wanted to say my LGS here(which is not known for it's low prices), has a crate for sale at 139 a piece. a couple dont even show signs of being fired.
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Old November 22, 2013, 02:27 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opinated
On ammo for the M-N, anyone able to interpret the markings on the crate and cans? A78-75-60 BT 85/74 C.
Here is a diagram of what all those numbers mean. Lots more info here.

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Old November 22, 2013, 04:34 PM   #68
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Again the folks here have the answers I seek.
So my ammo is from 1975.
Comments about my buy. The steel strap, very rusty, around the wooden case was there but rusted into on the bottom. The wooden crate showed no signs of water damage. Due to the strap issue, the crate sides were cracking. The nails were holding quite well. The inner paper sheets over and under the cans were OK. The pull strap around one of the cans broke when pulled. The paint on the cans is quite good, no rust. Have not opened a can yet.
So my guess is that this was in a high humidity environment, perhaps salty air, for some significant period of time.
And while online shopping, some of the sources offering this surplus ammo are out of stock. So is the supply dwindling? And price shopping does pay as prices vary significantly among sellers.
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Old November 22, 2013, 08:00 PM   #69
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Supply is not likely to dwindle. The 7.62 x 54R is still in current use- and manufacture.

"Older" surplus stocks will continue to be sold off, as new stocks replace them.

The PKM MG and the PSL are widely used weapons systems today.
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Old November 22, 2013, 08:55 PM   #70
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The Dragonov and it's variants still use the round as well.
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Old November 23, 2013, 05:34 PM   #71
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Couple of stores in the area have the 7.62 x 54R ammo supposedly from Russia, noncorrosive. White box, 20 rounds in brown paper inside the box. No company name or address on the box. Priced $16.95 at one store, $11.95 at the other and was at $9.95 for one week at the lower priced source. I bought one box to inspect and compare.
With tax, the cost each ranges from .905 down to .53 at those box prices.
Makes surplus ammo look like a bargain.
Cartridge is copper colored, but casing is magnetic as is the bullet jacket. Bullet color bright copper all over.
Neat stamping on the head on the flat surrounding the primer. 7.62x54R LVE 11. No marking on the outer rim.
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Old November 23, 2013, 08:03 PM   #72
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I picke up a box of that a few weeks ago from gander mountain. I think I paid 11.95/20, which I didn't find all that bad.

I researched it. Made by Wolf, known as their "polyformance" ammo. Haven't gotten to shoot it yet.
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Last edited by nate_g_2003; November 24, 2013 at 11:46 PM.
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Old November 23, 2013, 09:51 PM   #73
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I picked up a 440 round tin a month ago for $109.98 shipped. That’s $0.25/round or $5.00 per 20. That’s almost as cheap as .22 LR is these days, and .22 LR can not be found anywhere around here. It’s corrosive, and you do have the hassle of having to clean it as soon as you get home, but for $0.25/round, the cleanup is no problem.
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Old November 23, 2013, 10:38 PM   #74
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Quote:
has a case of the Moisin-Nagant
I had a case of that one time, a few doses of penicillin cleared it right up

For $193, I wouldn't even consider it. $200 will buy you a decent used bolt action rifle (that's not a mil-surp) if you look around a bit for a good deal.
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Old November 24, 2013, 04:39 PM   #75
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Was the penicillin oral or injected?

"For $193, I wouldn't even consider it. $200 will buy you a decent used bolt action rifle (that's not a mil-surp) if you look around a bit for a good deal."
That is a point worth considering. But if the price of ammo is factored in, the cost for a few hundred rounds plus the rifle may be quite skewed in favor of the M-N. It is very easy to spend more on an ammo supply than on the firearm.
Winter is really upon us here and firing mine may have to wait a while.
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