Reloading components Help

[USAF Ret]

So, putting together all of my components as a first time reloader. I got the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master kit.

Comes with:

Rock Chucker Supreme Press
Uniflow-III Powder Measure
M500 Mechanical Scale
Hand Priming Tool
.17-.60 Debur Tool
Accessory Handle - 2 with two case neck brushes
Universal Case Loading Block
Hex Key Set
Case Lube Kit
Powder Funnel
Speer Reloading Manual


Ordered the RCBS 2 die sets for the calibers I am reloading. Also ordered the Hornady Lock-nLoad conversion kit.

I have the shell holders, calipers and cartridge boxes sitting in my cart. So, I know I may need to trim cases after several reloadings. I see several components for those; trimmer pilots, collets and also see the little lathe. Not sure what I need to get on that. I also know I need a tumbler to clean brass. Last, I need to order a table, but I need stuff moved around in my office before I do that.

Any inputs on the basics I need for case trimming? Am I missing anything else, aside from powder, bullets, and primers? I already have brass and have also been ordering bullets as I see them available. Mostly Nosler partitions and ballistic tip.

I am reloading for 270 Win, 6.5 CR, 308 Win and 6.5 Grendel.

Thanks.

[ammo.crafter]

I use an ancient RCBS manual trimmer that I converted for use with a cheap 3/8th drive drill (plug in).

Use a slow speed and your trimming will be done in no time.
You will need trim collets for each different diameter rounds you are reloading.

I also use a Dremel with a 1/8th inch nylon brush to clean the primer pockets.

You will need some type of case lubricant for sizing unless you have purchased nitrite dies which do not require lube.

God luck.

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by ammo.crafter

I use an ancient RCBS manual trimmer that I converted for use with a cheap 3/8th drive drill (plug in).

Use a slow speed and your trimming will be done in no time.
You will need trim collets for each different diameter rounds you are reloading.

I also use a Dremel with a 1/8th inch nylon brush to clean the primer pockets.

You will need some type of case lubricant for sizing unless you have purchased nitrite dies which do not require lube.

God luck.

Thank you very much. The kit comes with lubricant and I got standard dies.

I like the idea of the dremmel as well as the manual trim conversion.

[ballardw]

You may want a powder trickler. They are a tool that you put a small amount of powder into and then you can add a small amount of powder to the scale pan by twisting a knob.

If you are using some of the stick powders the amount dropped from the powder measure can vary quite a bit. So you get the measure set up to drop just a bit less than the desired weight and bring the total powder weight up to the desired level.

"Need" for tumbler is up to you. I and my dad for years got by with wiping cases on towels. The tumbler is a nice to have option though if doing more than a box or two of hunting rounds.

[44 AMP]

READ THE MANUAL
(not just the data section)

Then, read it again, and refer to it, and all equipment instructions as you set things up. Some things will be clear, some less so, when it doesn't seem to make sense, stop, and ask.

The thing to learn first is how to make ammo that will fit, fire and extract from your guns, safely. Fine tuning for best accuracy comes later on Don't dive head first into the rabbit hole of trying to make "benchrest" quality ammo right away.

Beware of people who say "you need to do this to make accurate ammo" and people who say "you need" specific brand name dies or measuring tools. Later on, if you want them, fine, get them.

You don't NEED a tumbler as a start up tool. Pretty quick you are going to want one, though. You don't need a fancy "media separator" for the tumbler, though they sell them. Plastic bucket and colander works just fine. But, get your own, they're cheap. Wife will NOT be happy if you take the one from the kitchen! Trust me on that!

Trimming?? yes, its going to be needed, at some point. Trimmer range from the simple Lee "stud & cutter" hand tools that do one length and are cartridge specific up to hand or powered tools that can do everything, with the right collets, pilots and adjustments. Recommend doing some research there, to see what will be best for you, before spending a bunch of $.

One thing you can do, right now (you have calipers) is measure all your fired brass, see if any are over the listed max length, and set aside those which are (if any) for processing once you get a trimmer set up.

There are lots of "tips and tricks" that are not in the manuals. Many are in the book "ABC's of Reloading". some are not.

Watch out for "information overload", stick to the simple basics to begin with, and do use TFL (and other places) when you have questions. Lots and lots of experience here for the asking.

There WILL be a trial and error process, and you'll probably find something that you think you're doing right, and according to the book you're doing it right, but it isn't working out right. We're here to help with things like that, if we can. Sometimes the "fix" is something small and not obvious, and not in the books. Lubing cases for resizing is one of those things you need to figure out, too much isn't good, but not enough can be VERY BAD. Like a case stuck in your die with the rim torn off, bad.

Little things like that.

There are a couple of "tools" you dont "need" until you do need them, I recommend you get them, and have them on as shelf for if/when you do need them. A stuck case removal kit, and a bullet puller.

The RCBS stuck case kit worked for me, and is one of those things that if you get one, you'll probably never use it more than once, if that.

For a bullet puller, I prefer the kinetic hammer type over the press mounted collet type. I've used both, and for me, the Lyman "orange hammer" is the best. Others work, its just my personal preference.

There are lots of other things you will discover you want, which you won't need to start with.

Get set up, and after you've learned how to make reliable functional ammo, THEN you can look at more "advanced" things. Crawl, baby steps, walk, THEN RUN. Otherwise we fall down go boom, and that can hurt!

Welcome to another aspect of the hobby. I like doing it and have been reloadin since the early 70s, and am currently set up for over 30 different cartridges (last time I checked...)

Nobody knows it ALL and nobody else has your stuff (and that includes your guns). Lots of us have some experience with things similar enough to yours to be useful.

One last point, don't expect to "save money". In my experience, you won't save money by reloading. What you will get is more ammo for the money you spend, and ammo custom tailored to your guns and your wishes.

Good Luck, enjoy! and please, do ask when you aren't sure (and even if you are, it doesn't hurt!)

[gwpercle]

One tool that when you need it ... nothing else will do ... a simple Kinetic Bullet Puller .
You can pull apart mistakes and salavage components ... and don't think you wont make a mistake ...sooner or later
Get the puller before worrying about case tumblers .
For just starting out use a large vibrator type with treated walnut to clean and polish .
Wet tumbling with pins requires more work and lots of drying , save that for later .

There are short cuts ... like a trickler ... mine is a fired 30-06 case , put some of the power in it , hold over pan and roll back and forth between thumb and forefinger and the powder tricles out .

Get the Hornady Reloading manual to cross check data ... there are so many different bullets and powders on the market not every combination or every powder can be in one book ... or even two .
Also get the Lyman 50th or 51st edition loading manuals , they have some powders in them that speer and Hornady do not + there is data for jacketed bullets and cast bullets and 118 pages of great information and how-to you need to read .
Gary

[USAF Ret]

Great info. Some stuff I had never even heard of. Loading up my shopping cart.

And understood. Just want to get some loads that work for hunting and have the ability to roll my own and not deal with shortages, ex very hard to find 6.5 Grendel with 120 grain ballistic tips. Plus, have something to do to keep my mind occupied.

[USAF Ret]

I have a copy of the beginners guide to reloading, the speer manual that came with the kit, plus I ordered a Hodgen manual with some bullets I bought from MidSouth. I have also been downloading the load information from the Nosler website.

[gwpercle]

You are doing just fine ... you can't have too much load data (manuals) . I have 4 main go-to manuals and a dozen others from various powder mfgers , NRA publications , RCBS , Nosler and Sierra bullet makers ... I shoot and reload a lot of cast bullets in handguns and a few cast in rifles. I like to have at least one bullet mould for every rifle and several moulds for every handgun I own ... just in case ...you know about those shortages ... well if you pour lead you can eliminate the bullet shortage .
Reloading and casting bullets is a great hobby , along with hunting , fishing and shooting it's been my main hobby since 1967 .
Don't get overwhelmed , ask questions , I'm glad to help anytime ...
Gary

[cdoc42]

USAF Ret, I started handloading in 1976 with a textbook written by John Wootters. He was from Texas, and has passed now. I read the book on two successive evenings and off I went! I highly recommend you check it out, perhaps on Amazon:

The Complete Book of Practical Handloading, John Wootters, 1976

Updated:

The Complete Handloader for Rifles, Handguns and Shotguns, John Wootters, 1988

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by gwpercle

You are doing just fine ... you can't have too much load data (manuals) . I have 4 main go-to manuals and a dozen others from various powder mfgers , NRA publications , RCBS , Nosler and Sierra bullet makers ... I shoot and reload a lot of cast bullets in handguns and a few cast in rifles. I like to have at least one bullet mould for every rifle and several moulds for every handgun I own ... just in case ...you know about those shortages ... well if you pour lead you can eliminate the bullet shortage .
Reloading and casting bullets is a great hobby , along with hunting , fishing and shooting it's been my main hobby since 1967 .
Don't get overwhelmed , ask questions , I'm glad to help anytime ...
Gary

Thank you!

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by cdoc42

USAF Ret, I started handloading in 1976 with a textbook written by John Wootters. He was from Texas, and has passed now. I read the book on two successive evenings and off I went! I highly recommend you check it out, perhaps on Amazon:

The Complete Book of Practical Handloading, John Wootters, 1976

Updated:

The Complete Handloader for Rifles, Handguns and Shotguns, John Wootters, 1988

I will be looking that one up.

I also have a ton of YouTube videos saved as well.

[USAF Ret]

So, here is what I have in my shopping cart

RCBS
Shell Holder #32
Shell Holder # 3
Large Rifle Ammo Boxes Large Rifle
Medium Rifle Ammo Boxes Medium Rifle
Case Trimmer Collets 1
Stuck Case Remover-2 Kit
Powder Trickler-2
Trim Pro® -2 Manual Case Trimmer Kit
30 Case Trimmer Pilots .30
.27 Case Trimmer Pilots .27
.26 Case Trimmer Pilots .26

Amazon
Hornday Steel Dial Caliper (RCBS did not have good reviews)

What am I missing?

[akinswi]

Originally Posted by USAF Ret

So, here is what I have in my shopping cart

RCBS
Shell Holder #32
Shell Holder # 3
Large Rifle Ammo Boxes Large Rifle
Medium Rifle Ammo Boxes Medium Rifle
Case Trimmer Collets 1
Stuck Case Remover-2 Kit
Powder Trickler-2
Trim Pro® -2 Manual Case Trimmer Kit
30 Case Trimmer Pilots .30
.27 Case Trimmer Pilots .27
.26 Case Trimmer Pilots .26

Amazon
Hornday Steel Dial Caliper (RCBS did not have good reviews)

What am I missing?

Do you have powder? Primers? cant reload with out these

[DaleA]

Great advice here and I have little to add except maybe depending on your learning style you might benefit from seeing the reloading actually being done.

My local Cabela's had a reloading workshop where they demonstrated the stuff they were selling and actually reloaded some rifle rounds. I found it very instructive.

Youtube videos can be instructive too but there's no real quality control on them. Still and all they (usually) show you how stuff works. If they don't, move on to ones that do and don't waste your time viewing any more from a source that is unreliable.

Disclaimer: I've been reloading for years but starting out I learned 'one way' to do it out of 'ABC's of Reloading' (I started out loading .45 ACP---probably the easiest cartridge in the world to reload) and never even thought to look at any other way to do things. This is NOT a productive way to do it and I undoubtedly wasted a lot of time so keep your eyes open...you probably don't need this advice as you're already here looking around and asking questions.

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by DaleA

Great advice here and I have little to add except maybe depending on your learning style you might benefit from seeing the reloading actually being done.

My local Cabela's had a reloading workshop where they demonstrated the stuff they were selling and actually reloaded some rifle rounds. I found it very instructive.

Youtube videos can be instructive too but there's no real quality control on them. Still and all they (usually) show you how stuff works. If they don't, move on to ones that do and don't waste your time viewing any more from a source that is unreliable.

Disclaimer: I've been reloading for years but starting out I learned 'one way' to do it out of 'ABC's of Reloading' (I started out loading .45 ACP---probably the easiest cartridge in the world to reload) and never even thought to look at any other way to do things. This is NOT a productive way to do it and I undoubtedly wasted a lot of time so keep your eyes open...you probably don't need this advice as you're already here looking around and asking questions.

I have some videos saved from RCBS and Ron Spomer.

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by akinswi

Do you have powder? Primers? cant reload with out these

Got bullets and brass. No primers or powder yet. Just trying to get my equipment set up first.

[rg1]

One tool I recommend is a case headspace measuring tool to measure how much your dies are pushing the shoulders back when sizing rifle cases. You can measure how much cases expand the shoulders fired in your rifles when adjusting the dies in your press. Hornady’s Headspace Gauge Set which attaches to your calipers is a great tool and not too expensive. Highly recommended even for a beginner. Your purchased items will get you going! Later you can add things like electronic scales or a powder dispenser and a primer pocket uniformer for large and small primer pockets. Bullet and powder company manuals are a plus to compare data. Wouldn’t want to only have one. Lots of data available on-line.

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by rg1

One tool I recommend is a case headspace measuring tool to measure how much your dies are pushing the shoulders back when sizing rifle cases. You can measure how much cases expand the shoulders fired in your rifles when adjusting the dies in your press. Hornady’s Headspace Gauge Set which attaches to your calipers is a great tool and not too expensive. Highly recommended even for a beginner. Your purchased items will get you going! Later you can add things like electronic scales or a powder dispenser and a primer pocket uniformer for large and small primer pockets. Bullet and powder company manuals are a plus to compare data. Wouldn’t want to only have one. Lots of data available on-line.

Thank you!

[cdoc42]

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/pr...tools-and-gaug

Check this out. Once you resize the case, prime it, decide on power and charge, and get ready to seat the bullet, the question arises: how deep to seat the bullet? Don't fall into a common neophyte trap where one seats the bullet right to the cannelure. That is just the constriction manufactured into the bullet to stop mushrooming, thereby keeping the remaining base intact for continued penetration.

You are going to have to learn how to discover where every bullet you use for YOUR rifles touches the rifling lands/grooves, then seat those bullets in a series of sequential depths to achieve handloading accuracy that is unachievable with factory rounds.

That's where the "comparator" comes into play, and a good starting point is the one made by Hornady as shown in the link above.

Once again, everything you need to know in this respect is in Wootters book(s).

Just this morning I took a neighbor friend to the range with 5 rounds each for his 7mm Remington Mag of ELD-X 150gr, using H-1000 and H4831, seating the bullets at 0.02" from the lands. I started with 2 grains of each powder below maximum (altho as a starter you should go with the common recommendation of 10% below max). With luck he found one set giving him a 5-shot group at 100 yards of 0.966." That's experience guiding this experiment. You'll be looking into the "ladder" approach as well as any number of methods available to reach your maximum accuracy goal. Don't get overwhelmed or frustrated. Lengthy experimentation is the whole idea behind handloading in order to reach your goal.

Just keep in mind all the recipes in various manuals are good for the rifle used in those particular recipes, not YOUR rifle. Start at the low end of the recommended loads and slowly move up toward maximum charge and stop when you get desired groups. Remember, high velocity is not necessarily equivalent to the best accuracy.

[akinswi]

USAF RET,

My advice is to start loading for 1 cartridge first which ever is your favorite once you learn the basics you can start adding additional cartridges on from there.

Also take notes, write down what works and what doesn’t, keep targets and write down powder charges seating depths etc. Start with small batches. This will help you save time and mostly save components that are a premium right now

If you have the ability try to keep all your brass from the same manufacturer, this will help in consistency. Go slow you will make mistakes we all have and still do, be safe never ever start at maximum ever!



Will

[44 AMP]

There are short cuts ... like a trickler ... mine is a fired 30-06 case , put some of the power in it , hold over pan and roll back and forth between thumb and forefinger and the powder tricles out .

This method does work, I have used it, and I strongly recommend AGAINST IT!!

The reason is because its not impossible to use a primed case as your trickler, and when the stars really line up against you, the trickler case gets put back into the loading block, gets a bullet put on, gets seated and disappears un-noticed into the ammo supply, UNTIL you pull the trigger!!

Buy a real powder trickler, they work well, and you'll never have to take your rifle to the gunsmith to get it open because of one.

You've already gotten a bunch of advice on making accurate ammunition, more will follow on, I'm sure.

You're just starting out, so I'm going to suggest that, for now, you don't try making the most accurate ammo possible, concentrate on making consistent functional ammo for the rifles you have, without chasing the lands, bumping the shoulder back a given amount, or other fine tuning tricks.

Take a look at the rifles you're going to be loading for, what are they? Bolt, semi, or?? Different guns have different restrictions when it comes to loading for them. Semi's wont tolerate some things a bolt action doesn't even notice. For some guns, every load in the book is not a suitable load.

Advanced reloaders who have had lots of experience can go way into the minutiae and forget how daunting that can be to a beginner without even realizing it.

you're just starting out, focus on the basic and the simple, and get those down before you go chasing the nth degree of accuracy. You might even find your needs and wants met before you go there...

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by cdoc42

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/pr...tools-and-gaug

Check this out. Once you resize the case, prime it, decide on power and charge, and get ready to seat the bullet, the question arises: how deep to seat the bullet? Don't fall into a common neophyte trap where one seats the bullet right to the cannelure. That is just the constriction manufactured into the bullet to stop mushrooming, thereby keeping the remaining base intact for continued penetration.

You are going to have to learn how to discover where every bullet you use for YOUR rifles touches the rifling lands/grooves, then seat those bullets in a series of sequential depths to achieve handloading accuracy that is unachievable with factory rounds.

That's where the "comparator" comes into play, and a good starting point is the one made by Hornady as shown in the link above.

Once again, everything you need to know in this respect is in Wootters book(s).

Just this morning I took a neighbor friend to the range with 5 rounds each for his 7mm Remington Mag of ELD-X 150gr, using H-1000 and H4831, seating the bullets at 0.02" from the lands. I started with 2 grains of each powder below maximum (altho as a starter you should go with the common recommendation of 10% below max). With luck he found one set giving him a 5-shot group at 100 yards of 0.966." That's experience guiding this experiment. You'll be looking into the "ladder" approach as well as any number of methods available to reach your maximum accuracy goal. Don't get overwhelmed or frustrated. Lengthy experimentation is the whole idea behind handloading in order to reach your goal.

Just keep in mind all the recipes in various manuals are good for the rifle used in those particular recipes, not YOUR rifle. Start at the low end of the recommended loads and slowly move up toward maximum charge and stop when you get desired groups. Remember, high velocity is not necessarily equivalent to the best accuracy.

Great Advice. Thank you!

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by akinswi

USAF RET,

My advice is to start loading for 1 cartridge first which ever is your favorite once you learn the basics you can start adding additional cartridges on from there.

Also take notes, write down what works and what doesn’t, keep targets and write down powder charges seating depths etc. Start with small batches. This will help you save time and mostly save components that are a premium right now

If you have the ability try to keep all your brass from the same manufacturer, this will help in consistency. Go slow you will make mistakes we all have and still do, be safe never ever start at maximum ever!



Will

Thanks. I am starting with 6.5 Grendel with a HOWA 1500 mini action. Been marking all boxes of brass for what rifle I am shooting them out of. Most of the bullets I have ordered are Nosler, so I have pulled down all of their reloading data.

Completely understand, when they mark "most accurate" load, that is with a different rifle, barrel length, etc. I have some 120 grain ballistic tips coming in and those are the ones I am starting with. Will move to my 6.5 Creedmoor next as I can use the same bullets. All of my brass for the Grendel is Hornady and the 6.5 CR is Norma.

[USAF Ret]

Originally Posted by 44 AMP

This method does work, I have used it, and I strongly recommend AGAINST IT!!

The reason is because its not impossible to use a primed case as your trickler, and when the stars really line up against you, the trickler case gets put back into the loading block, gets a bullet put on, gets seated and disappears un-noticed into the ammo supply, UNTIL you pull the trigger!!

Buy a real powder trickler, they work well, and you'll never have to take your rifle to the gunsmith to get it open because of one.

You've already gotten a bunch of advice on making accurate ammunition, more will follow on, I'm sure.

You're just starting out, so I'm going to suggest that, for now, you don't try making the most accurate ammo possible, concentrate on making consistent functional ammo for the rifles you have, without chasing the lands, bumping the shoulder back a given amount, or other fine tuning tricks.

Take a look at the rifles you're going to be loading for, what are they? Bolt, semi, or?? Different guns have different restrictions when it comes to loading for them. Semi's wont tolerate some things a bolt action doesn't even notice. For some guns, every load in the book is not a suitable load.

Advanced reloaders who have had lots of experience can go way into the minutiae and forget how daunting that can be to a beginner without even realizing it.

you're just starting out, focus on the basic and the simple, and get those down before you go chasing the nth degree of accuracy. You might even find your needs and wants met before you go there...

Great advice. Yes, I am going by the book on everything. I have an AR-10 and a Christensen in 308. Keeping my brass separated for those as I have read about not mixing them. Use the brass you shot in the rifle.

Again, much appreciated for all the advice. I will be just loading for decent accuracy with good hunting bullets, starting out withe the min and working my way up.