Primer Pocket, Military Brass, Crimped Primers

JeepHammer · March 18, 2015, 06:23 PM

There has been several threads on getting rid of the CRIMPED edge off the primer pocket,
On military and some civilian brass.

This is the cheapest way I've found and it works VERY good,

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-...ool-68535.html

This same type counter sink tool can be had from Wally-World & Sears, the maker is Hanson.
A little better quality, without the handle shown above.

With a low speed power drill,
I've cut the crimp off and left a nice taper to guide the primer into it's pocket on about 4,000 Military 5.56x45mm brass today alone.

What I usually do is knock the primer out of the pocket with a 'Universal' decapping tool,
Then cut the primer pocket.

This only has to be done the FIRST time you intend to reload,
After that, the decapping pin in my progressive press knocks the primers out just fine,
And since the hardened crimp lip is removed, there is no need to do it again.

SUGGESTIONS!

Just don't cut too deep!
As long as you don't cut any farther than the rounded edge of the primer cup, you HAVE NOT effected the ability of the case to hold the primer.

I do suggest you wear a WORK GLOVE on one hand when pushing the case down into the countersink...
The case mouths get pretty sharp and tend to hurt a little over time,

And in the event one would snag on the countersink, that case mouth would cut a very neat, round hole in your finger as the case spun on the drill/counter sink...

-----

This way sure beats using a primer pocket 'Swaging' tool in the press, you don't have to jump up and down on the handle at the top or bottom of the stroke EVER,

This beats the crap out of the $100+ for those bench mounted table top presses that further hardens the brass since you are work hardening it even further...

I have both types of primer pocket 'Swaggers'/'Swagers' and this $10 handle/reamer type countersink is by far the easiest and produces the best results, since you not only remove the hardened lip, but leave a nice 'Funnel' shape for the primer to follow into the case.

lamarw · March 19, 2015, 12:00 AM

I was doing something similar but it was taking forever and wearing my hands out. I ended up buying the Dillon Super Swager 600 and had 1500 pieces of mostly Lake City 5.56 brass swagged in a couple of hours. It can be done much faster.

The Dillon was a hundred bucks but worth every penny, and I bet I can recoup all my cost if I ever decide to sell it. One easy pull of the lever with little to hardly any resistance and the brass is perfectly swagged for the new primer.

Panfisher · March 19, 2015, 07:59 AM

I ended up with a Lyman Primer Pocker reamer, worked great. I unscrewed the bit portion, chucked it into a drill press and set it to its lowest speed, a quick touch/shove and viola, no more crimp. It is made so that it won't cut too deep. My hands still cramped and got tired but took quite a few more than doing it by hand.

rebs · March 19, 2015, 09:58 AM

I bought a rcbs primer pocket reamer at a gun show for 15.00 and it works great. Just put the die in the press and the other piece in the shell holder. Put is a case and work the press lever. Simple and fast.

**44 AMP** · March 19, 2015, 10:52 AM

While I have, and have used the primer pocket swager, it sits in its box unused and unloved these days.

What I use to remover the GI crimp from primer pockets is even cheaper than the tool from Harbor Freight. Not because it costs less, but because I already bought it for a different use, so, for taking out the crimp, its "free".

I simply use the chamfering tool that I use after trimming case necks. (mine is the RCBS one). The nose fits into the pocket, and a couple of twists, and you are done.

Will-j · March 19, 2015, 11:44 AM

JEEP.... Glad to see that someone has noticed the benefit/use of a countersink bit. One twist,(no pun intended), in my case; I use the bit in a table-top bench press, [less than $50.00 from Harbor Freight] after YEARS and THOUSANDS of military cases, and using a small, light 1/4" or 3/8" hand drill. I started out with a case mouth trimmer tool froe RCBS chucked in the drill by the pin protruding from the 'outside' trim portion of the tool. When 'OLD MAN ARTHUR' started coming around, I needed an easier way....which, by the way was faster too.
Chuck the bit in the drill press on the lowest speed available.
After de-priming the cases, I set them in those plastic carriers as found in some factory ammo boxes(FEDERAL comes to mind), and zip them thru the process with the CS bit. I started out at first by just grabbing a handful of cases and de-crimping them one-by-one and discarding them into a canister.
Whichever way works easiest for you sure beats the hell out of handling the drill by hand.
I use the 3/4" CS for large primer pockets and the 1/2" CS for small pockets.
Just a quick, light touch is all that's needed, and you're finished before you know it....and not fatigued either.
I started out attaching the hand drill to a fixed post with some 'QUIK-TIES' at first and when the motor burned out, I said WYH?, I'll just get a bench-top for the same price or so and the rest is history.
Just a thought, JEEP....JUST A THOUGHT.
WILL
Pan... You beat me to it pal.... I replied BEFORE I finished the rest of the thread, but I am really glad someone else had the same bench-top idea.
WILL.

mikld · March 19, 2015, 12:03 PM

Been using the same type of tool to deburr my military once fired brass for many years (first started reloading .223/5.56 ammo in '88 using mil spec brass). I had a few in my toolbox and just grabbed one and started twisting. I now chuck the c-sink in my hand drill and just deburr until my fingers start to cramp, usually 100+ cases...

(I have found that on my LC brass a "sharper" taper on the c-sink works slightly better than a plain 45 degree tool). My Lyman primer pocket "deburring tool" sits in my toolbox drawer with the other seldom used tools.

lll Otto lll · March 20, 2015, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Panfisher

I ended up with a Lyman Primer Pocker reamer, worked great. I unscrewed the bit portion, chucked it into a drill press and set it to its lowest speed, a quick touch/shove and viola, no more crimp. It is made so that it won't cut too deep.

That is exactly what I do too. I also have a Dillon Super Swager but it collects dust now.

Road_Clam · March 20, 2015, 12:23 PM

Ive reloaded a ton of 7.62 NATO brass and all's i do is chamfer out the crimps. Ive actually learned that a slight primer pocket chamfer helps a lot in starting in the primer. LC and Wolf brass seem to have very tight pockets. I use my 60 degree male chamfer tool on my Lyman case prep center. Works awesome.

F. Guffey · March 20, 2015, 12:35 PM

Then there was Hatcher, for me? Not A problem, he used his pocket knife.

I was at a gun show, a dealer had cases for sale, 'cheap', he asked me if I was interested. The answer was no, I suggested the cases were among the ugliest I had ever seen. I asked him if he used a screw counter sink to remove the crimp.

And of course, the answer was yes. I informed him I want all the primer support I can get, right out to the case head.

F. Guffey

March 18, 2015, 06:23 PM	#1
JeepHammer Junior member Join Date: February 27, 2015 Posts: 1,768	Primer Pocket, Military Brass, Crimped Primers There has been several threads on getting rid of the CRIMPED edge off the primer pocket, On military and some civilian brass. This is the cheapest way I've found and it works VERY good, http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-...ool-68535.html This same type counter sink tool can be had from Wally-World & Sears, the maker is Hanson. A little better quality, without the handle shown above. With a low speed power drill, I've cut the crimp off and left a nice taper to guide the primer into it's pocket on about 4,000 Military 5.56x45mm brass today alone. What I usually do is knock the primer out of the pocket with a 'Universal' decapping tool, Then cut the primer pocket. This only has to be done the FIRST time you intend to reload, After that, the decapping pin in my progressive press knocks the primers out just fine, And since the hardened crimp lip is removed, there is no need to do it again. SUGGESTIONS! Just don't cut too deep! As long as you don't cut any farther than the rounded edge of the primer cup, you HAVE NOT effected the ability of the case to hold the primer. I do suggest you wear a WORK GLOVE on one hand when pushing the case down into the countersink... The case mouths get pretty sharp and tend to hurt a little over time, And in the event one would snag on the countersink, that case mouth would cut a very neat, round hole in your finger as the case spun on the drill/counter sink... ----- This way sure beats using a primer pocket 'Swaging' tool in the press, you don't have to jump up and down on the handle at the top or bottom of the stroke EVER, This beats the crap out of the $100+ for those bench mounted table top presses that further hardens the brass since you are work hardening it even further... I have both types of primer pocket 'Swaggers'/'Swagers' and this $10 handle/reamer type countersink is by far the easiest and produces the best results, since you not only remove the hardened lip, but leave a nice 'Funnel' shape for the primer to follow into the case. Last edited by JeepHammer; March 18, 2015 at 06:31 PM.

March 19, 2015, 10:52 AM	#5
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 28,846	While I have, and have used the primer pocket swager, it sits in its box unused and unloved these days. What I use to remover the GI crimp from primer pockets is even cheaper than the tool from Harbor Freight. Not because it costs less, but because I already bought it for a different use, so, for taking out the crimp, its "free". I simply use the chamfering tool that I use after trimming case necks. (mine is the RCBS one). The nose fits into the pocket, and a couple of twists, and you are done. __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

March 19, 2015, 11:44 AM	#6
Will-j Senior Member Join Date: December 16, 2014 Location: SW Ga. Near Ft. Benning Posts: 251	crimp removal JEEP.... Glad to see that someone has noticed the benefit/use of a countersink bit. One twist,(no pun intended), in my case; I use the bit in a table-top bench press, [less than $50.00 from Harbor Freight] after YEARS and THOUSANDS of military cases, and using a small, light 1/4" or 3/8" hand drill. I started out with a case mouth trimmer tool froe RCBS chucked in the drill by the pin protruding from the 'outside' trim portion of the tool. When 'OLD MAN ARTHUR' started coming around, I needed an easier way....which, by the way was faster too. Chuck the bit in the drill press on the lowest speed available. After de-priming the cases, I set them in those plastic carriers as found in some factory ammo boxes(FEDERAL comes to mind), and zip them thru the process with the CS bit. I started out at first by just grabbing a handful of cases and de-crimping them one-by-one and discarding them into a canister. Whichever way works easiest for you sure beats the hell out of handling the drill by hand. I use the 3/4" CS for large primer pockets and the 1/2" CS for small pockets. Just a quick, light touch is all that's needed, and you're finished before you know it....and not fatigued either. I started out attaching the hand drill to a fixed post with some 'QUIK-TIES' at first and when the motor burned out, I said WYH?, I'll just get a bench-top for the same price or so and the rest is history. Just a thought, JEEP....JUST A THOUGHT. WILL Pan... You beat me to it pal.... I replied BEFORE I finished the rest of the thread, but I am really glad someone else had the same bench-top idea. WILL. Last edited by Will-j; March 19, 2015 at 11:50 AM.

March 19, 2015, 12:03 PM	#7
mikld Senior Member Join Date: February 7, 2009 Location: Southern Oregon! Posts: 2,891	Been using the same type of tool to deburr my military once fired brass for many years (first started reloading .223/5.56 ammo in '88 using mil spec brass). I had a few in my toolbox and just grabbed one and started twisting. I now chuck the c-sink in my hand drill and just deburr until my fingers start to cramp, usually 100+ cases... (I have found that on my LC brass a "sharper" taper on the c-sink works slightly better than a plain 45 degree tool). My Lyman primer pocket "deburring tool" sits in my toolbox drawer with the other seldom used tools. __________________ My Anchor is holding fast! I've learned how to stand on my own two knees...

March 20, 2015, 12:23 PM	#9
Road_Clam Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 2013 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 1,695	Ive reloaded a ton of 7.62 NATO brass and all's i do is chamfer out the crimps. Ive actually learned that a slight primer pocket chamfer helps a lot in starting in the primer. LC and Wolf brass seem to have very tight pockets. I use my 60 degree male chamfer tool on my Lyman case prep center. Works awesome. __________________ "To be old an wise you must have been young and stupid"

March 19, 2015, 12:00 AM	#2
lamarw Senior Member Join Date: April 12, 2010 Location: Lake Martin, AL Posts: 3,311	I was doing something similar but it was taking forever and wearing my hands out. I ended up buying the Dillon Super Swager 600 and had 1500 pieces of mostly Lake City 5.56 brass swagged in a couple of hours. It can be done much faster. The Dillon was a hundred bucks but worth every penny, and I bet I can recoup all my cost if I ever decide to sell it. One easy pull of the lever with little to hardly any resistance and the brass is perfectly swagged for the new primer.

March 19, 2015, 07:59 AM	#3
Panfisher Senior Member Join Date: July 30, 2010 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,337	I ended up with a Lyman Primer Pocker reamer, worked great. I unscrewed the bit portion, chucked it into a drill press and set it to its lowest speed, a quick touch/shove and viola, no more crimp. It is made so that it won't cut too deep. My hands still cramped and got tired but took quite a few more than doing it by hand.

March 19, 2015, 09:58 AM	#4
rebs Senior Member Join Date: January 10, 2012 Posts: 3,881	I bought a rcbs primer pocket reamer at a gun show for 15.00 and it works great. Just put the die in the press and the other piece in the shell holder. Put is a case and work the press lever. Simple and fast.

March 20, 2015, 12:35 PM	#10
F. Guffey Senior Member Join Date: July 18, 2008 Posts: 7,249	Then there was Hatcher, for me? Not A problem, he used his pocket knife. I was at a gun show, a dealer had cases for sale, 'cheap', he asked me if I was interested. The answer was no, I suggested the cases were among the ugliest I had ever seen. I asked him if he used a screw counter sink to remove the crimp. And of course, the answer was yes. I informed him I want all the primer support I can get, right out to the case head. F. Guffey